3.3TT Oil Catch Can?

Is their bracket available now, will it be included in place of the universal one?
The bracket is available now, but we are waiting on the final product photos to get it listed on the site.

We will be selling the bracket separately for those that don't have one and have the catch can.

Stay tuned to our site toward mid to end of this week.
 
instructionLESS
Did the file not work for you?

Is their bracket available now, will it be included in place of the universal one?

They should be available by this weekend or next. These are prefabbed specifically for the Stinger, professionally designed from ADD W1 for K8 Stinger Store
 
Did the file not work for you?



They should be available by this weekend or next. These are prefabbed specifically for the Stinger, professionally designed from ADD W1 for K8 Stinger Store
Thank you for feedback.
 
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Complete kits are now available with Stinger specific mounting brackets!

We have three kits to offer:
-ADD W1 V3 Single Can Kit
-ADD W1 V3 Twin Can Kit
-ADD W1 V3.3 Dual Inlet Single Can Kit

Each kit includes everything needed to mount and safely run the can(s) on your Kia Stinger

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Hm. Well, this makes me wonder what the benefits of two cans vs. one is. And how easy these will be to drain.
 
Hm. Well, this makes me wonder what the benefits of two cans vs. one is. And how easy these will be to drain.
More volume of oil with two cans = less of the need to empty them as much.

Also, the ADD W1 V3 & V3.3 catch cans can be drained the same way. Either unscrew the bottom half of the can and pour the contents out, or you can install a drain plug to the bottom of the can, as there is a drain hole already there ready to be used.

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Thank you, sir!
 
The stock PCV has a check valve that, in my mind, is plenty good. I think an additional check valve is unnecessary unless you plan on going over 20psi boost. Adding one between the manifold and the can will keep pressure out of the can, but that's not necessary if the can is of at least decent quality and the hoses are clamped properly.

The VTA (vent to atmosphere - the filter on the fresh air tube) isn't emissions legal. Any state that does a visual inspection under the hood may notice that and fail you. The longer term problem is oil mist WILL occasionally come out of there. The classic car guys that do that on their breathers usually wrap a rag, sponge or similar around it to catch the oil before it makes a mess.

I'm not a fan of the single can. Doesn't make sense on how you can set it up properly. Those multi-connection cans are set up with a single "clean" air connection and two "dirty" air connections. When suction is applied to the clean air connection, dirty air is pulled in through the other two connections, goes through the element(s) and cleaner air goes out the clean connection.
A PCV system has two components - the PCV that provides crankcase vapor to the manifold, and fresh air intake (usually on the opposite side of the engine) so the air circulates through the crankcase.
The main catch can goes between the PCV and the manifold, with the manifold on the "clean" connection. Whenever there's manifold vacuum it'll pull crankcase vapors through the can and through the PCV valve, with the can catching the oil that will be suspended in there.
The secondary catch can goes between the fresh air tube and the intake tube with the intake tube on the "clean" connection. Whenever there is more crankcase vapor than the PCV can handle - which on a turbo car is just about every moment the car is under boost - crankcase vapor will be pushed out the fresh air pipe. It can't go in the manifold because that's pressurized. That crankcase vapor going out the fresh air pipe has oil in it, just like the other side. Previously that dumped straight into the intake track, so we're right back where we were before. Now you want that crankcase vapor to enter the "dirty" side of the can, then the clean side goes to the intake tube so the car just burns the leftover crankcase vapors (some oil will be left, plus some gas vapor, plus combustion byproducts). Putting a filter on the fresh air pipe will just cause oilly air to be sprayed all over the front of the engine every time the car is under boost.

Anyway, the whole point is air has to circulate *through* the crankcase. We figured this out in the early 60's. Every single OEM PCV system has had the same setup since then. With a single can you end up applying vacuum to both sides of the engine. Sure, you pull out the crankcase pressure and are emissions legal, but you don't circulate fresh air. This leads to the oil failing earlier than it should.

FWIW, the $30 Amazon cans are actually quite good. I added a wad of steel wool (and filter material to keep the steel wool out of the engine!) to help out the sintered bronze filter. The price of some of the cans out there really makes me wonder, especially with the limited info about the internals.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
And if you do not have a bracket, there's a very simple solution. I connected the two cans using the supplied mini brackets and using an extra mini bracket, I removed the plastic cover by first pulling out the pins. You will see a notch underneath where you can hang the extra mini bracket, which is attached to the one can (no drilling and no hardware needed). Reattach the plastic cover, reinsert the pins and that's it. See pics.
 

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Just got the dual can kit from Stinger8 for my 2019 GT2. I ordered it Friday and had it all the way in Texas Monday morning. Amazing shipping!. Took all of about 45min to install. Everything was there in the kit and all went smooth. I have abour 650 miles on the car and Im anxious to see what it catches. I was concerned about being able to get the cups off to drain the cans...but its no problem unless you have a big ole bear hand I guess.
 

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Just got the dual can kit from Stinger8 for my 2019 GT2. I ordered it Friday and had it all the way in Texas Monday morning. Amazing shipping!. Took all of about 45min to install. Everything was there in the kit and all went smooth. I have abour 650 miles on the car and Im anxious to see what it catches. I was concerned about being able to get the cups off to drain the cans...but its no problem unless you have a big ole bear hand I guess.
Awesome, so happy to hear this.

If you wouldn't mind, could you please share this in our forum thread as well, for others to see?

Here is the link to that thread on this forum: [VENDOR][FS]: NEW ADD W1 Version 3.3 Baffled Dual Inlet Oil Catch Can - K8 Stinger Store
 
I utilized a spare Billet Technologies Hemi catch can I had sitting around. A simple bracket with nut on an existing stud, short 7/16" hose, barbed joiner and a 90deg vacuum boot is all it took.
This placement gives you enough room to unscrew the bottom of the can and get it out without spilling. It is also a 2 minute install so it can come off for dealer visits.
 

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This whole catch can topic is confusing. Can someone educate me in regards to whether I would need 2 or just use 1 on the pcv side?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
The PCV can is arguably the most important on a DI engine to fight coating the intake, intake ports and valves in oil residue and buildup. The fresh air side can is to keep that same oil residue out of the turbo compressor, charge pipes, intercooler and bypass valves. That also get oil into the manifold, ports and valves but not as fast. That's more of a fresh air breather line.
 
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PCV side is Very Important. Breather side is Might As Well.
 
Hence why I put a can on the PCV side a week after I bought the car. I have 535 miles on the car now. Better to catch it early.
 
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This is about 2 weeks of driving in the PCV can.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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