New Drilled & Slotted Rotors

"What does happen is that the layer of pad material on the rotor surface builds up unevenly, and also, the metallurgy of the rotor can change states. The layer of pad material on the rotors surface, if unevenly distributed, will create hot spots. If these spots get hot enough, it can form cementite in the rotors metal – a rough iron carbide formation that creates a lot of friction, but is terrible at dissipating heat. The cementite formation can get so bad and cause so much friction that even when you are off the brake pedal completely, because your pads are always in contact with the rotor ever so slightly, it can create a vibration when driving normally. I have even mistaken this vibration as my tires being out of balance."

This is the single most informative paragraph that I have read on the subject. Thanks for the link. :thumbup:
 
Been reading articles on high performance street brakes and the consensus is that slotted, drilled, and or dimpled are no longer needed on newer cars. New friction materials and new calipers work effectively on plain rotors. The added value of plain rotors is that they are stronger and less prone to warpage and other heat related issues. Cosmetics is best reason for not going with plain style rotors. I always make sure when I buy unbranded rotors that they are manufactured in an ISO certified facility
 
Been reading articles on high performance street brakes and the consensus is that slotted, drilled, and or dimpled are no longer needed on newer cars. New friction materials and new calipers work effectively on plain rotors. The added value of plain rotors is that they are stronger and less prone to warpage and other heat related issues. Cosmetics is best reason for not going with plain style rotors. I always make sure when I buy unbranded rotors that they are manufactured in an ISO certified facility

I won't get into a technical conversation about what you read.

I agree to disagree.

Are slotted/Drilled rotors needed on new cars or the Stinger? The answer is no the OEM will work just fine, but the slotted/drilled rotors would be an improvement.

Do you need to drive a new Stinger? The answer is no, but certainly and improvement over driving a Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla.

To each own.
 
______________________________
I won't get into a technical conversation about what you read.

I agree to disagree.

Are slotted/Drilled rotors needed on new cars or the Stinger? The answer is no the OEM will work just fine, but the slotted/drilled rotors would be an improvement.

Do you need to drive a new Stinger? The answer is no, but certainly and improvement over driving a Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla.

To each own.

My point is that improvements in calipers and pads make gas extraction a non issue and improved friction not that important within the parameters of street driving. The added strength of solid rotors is a big plus as is better pad wear. Just think others should research before buying.
 
You've driven on your stock rotors. I had 15,000 miles between two sets of stock rotors. The second set did fine. I had no complaints.

Yet, I knew better would come along.

These are great rotors from an excellent company with an excellent rating. They perform significantly better than my stock rotors and at $146.00, I am thrilled.

If anybody desires an affordable set of after market rotors, check these out.

You probably won't regret it.

I press the limits while driving. I exceed the speed limit always, and by amounts many of you would call crazy. These rotors hold up to my crazy better than stock did.

It's like buying a $300.00 tire vs a $100.00 tire, or running regular vs premium fuel, or synthetic vs Dino oil. Opinions abound the whole gamut.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Slotting is generally believed to help reduce pad deposits (so-called "warped rotors"), by keeping the edge of the pads sharper - at the expense of pad longevity. As stated, pads are cheap and easy to replace.
 
Pads are definitely a consumable item. Even good rotors these days are stupidly cheap (unless you try OEM - I got quoted AUD$600+ for front pads for my SUV by the dealership, I paid less for pads and rotors for all four corners by going to a brake specialist
 
Pads are definitely a consumable item. Even good rotors these days are stupidly cheap (unless you try OEM - I got quoted AUD$600+ for front pads for my SUV by the dealership, I paid less for pads and rotors for all four corners by going to a brake specialist

You mean “stealership”

The dealers are rapist. I always said it if you want to get raped go to the dealer.

Brake jobs can be done with very basic tools and if your not sure you can just look it on you tube. You can save hundreds if no thousands a year by doing this maintance on your car by yourself.

I personally always buy my rotors/pads online at Rock Auto.

Once I buy rotors and pads for the stinger I will do a DIY video for everyone.
 
Slotting is generally believed to help reduce pad deposits (so-called "warped rotors"), by keeping the edge of the pads sharper - at the expense of pad longevity. As stated, pads are cheap and easy to replace.
Totally agree & also as @Manaz stated earlier it also helps with degassing under heavy brake loads.
 
You mean “stealership”

The dealers are rapist. I always said it if you want to get raped go to the dealer.

Brake jobs can be done with very basic tools and if your not sure you can just look it on you tube. You can save hundreds if no thousands a year by doing this maintance on your car by yourself.

I personally always buy my rotors/pads online at Rock Auto.

Once I buy rotors and pads for the stinger I will do a DIY video for everyone.

I've done my own brakes on all my cars for the last 10 years or so - a mix of sliding caliper and fixed caliper models (Brembos on the STI, I have fixed calipers from a Nissan 350Z/Skyline GT25t on my Liberty), standard sliding calipers on most other cars I've had.

A DIY guide will be good - make sure you explain the risks of getting it wrong though - brakes are extremely important when you need them!
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
20190329_153630_1553899814960.webp I had all 4 corners dimpled and slotted rotors by Cquence and front pads replaced with stoptech pads.
Cquence rotors were 405.00 for all 4 and stoptech front pads were 88.00 from KHARTUNERZ. I also got stainless steel braided brake lines from KHARTUNERZ.
 

Attachments

  • 20190329_153819_1553899815130.webp
    20190329_153819_1553899815130.webp
    169.3 KB · Views: 54
  • 20190329_153634_1553899831972.webp
    20190329_153634_1553899831972.webp
    75.6 KB · Views: 53
Last edited:
Good fluid is important too - you want a good high-temp fluid, and to change it regularly (brake fluid is hygroscopic - it absorbs water, and water in it starts to lower the boiling point, making the brakes less effective.
 
I’m waiting on dba release hopefully this year & this is my preference.
34B1E822-1B55-490F-94C1-A70190CE4A2C.webp
 
The T3s are a very good rotor. They are what I have run on all of my cars for a while now, including the 02 STI track car.
 
The T3s are a very good rotor. They are what I have run on all of my cars for a while now, including the 02 STI track car.
Totally agree, these are a perfect fit with the Brembo’s & this style of car.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
View attachment 23177 I had all 4 corners dimpled and slotted rotors by Cquence and front pads replaced with stoptech pads.
Cquence rotors were 405.00 for all 4 and stoptech front pads were 88.00 from KHARTUNERZ. I also got stainless steel braided brake lines from KHARTUNERZ.

Just wondering, when you jacked the car up where did you place the jack stand to raise the car? Did the spot you used with the hydraulic jack allow you to place a jack stand under the jack points on the car?
 
______________________________
20190329_153809_1553899815215_01.webp
Just wondering, when you jacked the car up where did you place the jack stand to raise the car? Did the spot you used with the hydraulic jack allow you to place a jack stand under the jack points on the car?
I had them installed for me. I have a pic where he has it jacked up. I'll look and add it in a few.IMG_20190328_040905_024.webp IMG_20190328_040905_024.webp
 
Last edited:
That's some interesting bracing you have under there. What is it, what is the purpose?

I am quite used to Cusco etc parts ON Subies, so the concept of under-body bracing isn't new to me - just wondering what the specific purpose of that specific bracing is?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Back
Top