Lozic ECU + TCU + AWD Tune

Just trying to get a general feeling together - if you got TCU level 2 or 3, do you wish you had gotten the other one?

I got level 2, drove it for a week and realized it totally removed all auto-shifting if you even touch the paddles, which I can't do (I'm doing HPDEs, just graduated to level 2, and I am not ready to remember to shift every time, after 17 years of auto, but I want to be in manual mode to keep the current gear, downshift a few times, etc, but still have the car upshift if I forget). So, I'm returning it to Lozic to re-program. Debating about going to level 3 - does level 3 still shift acceptably in Comfort for taking the family?

I had 3 for a bit and went to 2. Comfort mode shifting is smoother, still fast but not as harsh when at >40% throttle, like stock <40%.

With you on the auto upshifts. The other day I floored it merging and SLAM, felt like I hit a wall when it reached redline. Oops.

Not sure if anyone else is experiencing this but my 2>1 in sport is really bad now, much worse than stock. It won't shift until about 9mph coming to a stop and there is an audible thunk with a pronounced heave. I have been trying to get into the habit of downshifting with paddles or staying in manual mode since it's much smoother but sometimes I forget and then do the above, argh!
 
I asked lozic what bar he recommends for me saying I got catless secondarys, plugs, and a cold air intake but also im at 5k feet elevation and he said 1.2 bar because im so high up. So rip I was tryin to do 1.4 lol
 
I'm preparing to place my order for the Lozic ECU+TCU tune. Can anyone and everyone who has selected the boost ready function ON confirm there is NO oscillating engine/intake/exhaust sounds when under light pedal/acceleration between the 2000-2800 RPM's? Occasionally, my chiptune will start to do this and I find it extremely annoying. If I disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 minutes to reset the ECU it goes away. I assume it has something to do with the adaptives in the ECU. I don't want my Lozic ECU to come with this problem. Hopefully some of you guys know what I'm talking about.
 
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I'd like an answer to that also. I asked Lozic about it last week, and this is what they said:

Q: I read on a forum that 'ready boost' caused some issues with low throttle when driving normally on the highway (lots of sudden boost, blow off and intake noise) but that this had been updated. Is this behavior still something I should expect, or has it gone?

A: Yes. everyone is satisfied. And there are cars that show this symptom depending on the hardware, and there are cars that don't. -solved.

So it sounds like it's still doing this for some cars but not others, and it depends on what what you have installed on your car. It didn't really clarify it for me.
 
I got mine without, and it drives like stock. No issues with boost surge. Wife couldn’t tell anything had been done when she drove it.
 
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My current ECU has the boost standby function on and even at light throttle on all drive modes you can hear the turbos and BOVs, air being sucked in and vented every shift. I think the amount and volume depends on what intakes you have.

I typically see anywhere from 2 to 8 psi of boost during light throttle. Because of this, acceleration is faster and negated my need for the Windbooster as the pedal/throttle was more sensitive.

The feature is nice if you want it but for me the excess sounds just cruising around and the sometimes oscillating boost under medium throttle is making me return the ECU for a reflash. I can definitely understand Lozic's love for it and see why others do as well.
 
I believe mine was left on, but I’m stock intake and stock exhaust so I don’t hear anything. Mine drives normal around just like stock. And same with my wife. I never told her about the Lozic ECU. She has now driven it once or twice and never said or noticed a difference between Lozic ECU or stock. But she also drives slow.
 
Am I correct in understanding that the overly boosty/noisy behavior people were seeing not long ago was because they had 'boost ready' enabled, or was this something else? I'm not keen on aggressive low throttle boost for a daily driver, but my configuration spreadsheet still has this enabled as the default 'best' setting.
I ordered mine with boost ready off. Its my wife's daily driver. Installed it 2 days ago. She loves the drivability and power.
 
can't wait to see a bunch of logs to see how timing is. Is everyone replacing their plugs? If not what is the difference with running 21 lbs of boost with an ecu tune and 21 lbs of boost with a JB4? Why isn't Lozic suggesting plugs be changed?
 
can't wait to see a bunch of logs to see how timing is. Is everyone replacing their plugs? If not what is the difference with running 21 lbs of boost with an ecu tune and 21 lbs of boost with a JB4? Why isn't Lozic suggesting plugs be changed?
He definitely wants you to change the plugs. HKS 45iL is what he said to run with his tune.
 
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For me the big thing is: can you get ready boost in sport mode only? I feel like that would negate so many issues that people have with it?
 
He definitely wants you to change the plugs. HKS 45iL is what he said to run with his tune.
I think it was stated somewhere earlier in the thread that replacing your plugs is a min with these tunes, and the 45IL is what’s recommended. I went with those as well.
 
For me the big thing is: can you get ready boost in sport mode only? I feel like that would negate so many issues that people have with it?
I asked this and was told no at this time.
 
Did he mention that gap at all? I don't think I've read anyone messing with the gap when running the tune.
 
My current ECU has the boost standby function on and even at light throttle on all drive modes you can hear the turbos and BOVs, air being sucked in and vented every shift. I think the amount and volume depends on what intakes you have.

I typically see anywhere from 2 to 8 psi of boost during light throttle. Because of this, acceleration is faster and negated my need for the Windbooster as the pedal/throttle was more sensitive.

The feature is nice if you want it but for me the excess sounds just cruising around and the sometimes oscillating boost under medium throttle is making me return the ECU for a reflash. I can definitely understand Lozic's love for it and see why others do as well.
Do you have the old ECU or the new ECU with hi boost turned off?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Did he mention that gap at all? I don't think I've read anyone messing with the gap when running the tune.
Choosing my words carefully again, I believed it was stated earlier in the thread that there is no need to gap. I didn’t gap mine, and my car is running well.
 
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Choosing my words carefully again, I believed it was stated earlier in the thread that there is no need to gap. I didn’t gap mine, and my car is running well.
Do you at least check the gap on each plug to confirm they are consistent?
 
I really don´t understand all discussions of gapping plugs or not...

When you go up in power and a lot of more cylinder pressure you all should change plugs and also gap to avoid risk of misfire. Its depending on cylinder pressure/AFR not if Lozic or JB4, both needs better plugs and gapping to 0,5 mm (0,02")
 
I went to my friends conservative Mustang Dyno today. We did run about 10 runs and adjusting Map 6 and also compare to stock, Map 3, Map 7 (meth) and all is now maxed out. Turbos is maxed out. I have all bolt ons (see signature) and still no more power even if we tried to raise boost more. A lot of surge also so we need to take of boost at lower rpm and up to 3800 rpm. So... no one can have more power than this with stock turbos as long as the Dyno is calibrated. Several Dynojet reads a lot more but... corrected and calibrated this is max.

You can also see that shifting is optimal at like 5.900 rpm, no need to go higher rpm, slows car down . Boost peaks 1,5 Bar (21,7 Psi) and drops to about 1,35 bar (19,5 Psi).
 

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I went to my friends conservative Mustang Dyno today. We did run about 10 runs and adjusting Map 6 and also compare to stock, Map 3, Map 7 (meth) and all is now maxed out. Turbos is maxed out. I have all bolt ons and still no more power even if we tried to raise boost more. A lot of surge also so we need to take of boost at lower rpm and up to 3800 rpm. So... no one can have more power than this with stock turbos as long as the Dyno is calibrated. Several Dynojet reads a lot more but... corrected and calibrated this is max.
You should do some track/draggy runs. Curious to the numbers…
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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