Got it, thanks! I hit it with the Rain-X spray when I did my windows but like I said, no dice--it's as-bad as it was before.Rain X is just a brand
you probably used their popular windshield treatment (Hydrophobic)
View attachment 76730
But what you needed was the opposite, which Rain-X also makes (Hydrophilic)
View attachment 76731
Agree, I've tried using mine in stop and go traffic, and it's pretty aggressive pulling away (like it wants to hit the 20mph min even if the car ahead had just rolled a few car lengths) and incredibly aggressive waiting until the last minute and stopping short. I know it's a lot to expect it to look to cars ahead and anticipate (both decel and accel), but the slam stops make it pretty much unusable at the times I'd most like to use it.And before you jump and, I agree, the stop and go feature of the smart cruise has rather abrupt braking at times... first world problems I guess.
If you were turning the wheel in sync with the lane keep system, following its movement through curves, it wouldn't necessarily detect that you were doing anything. But if you give it a slight wiggle, doing something different than what the auto steer is doing (steering slightly sharper, or resisting the other way) will immediately get picked up. On trips I usually rest a hand at the bottom of the wheel and just give it the tiniest nudge when it alerts.Gotcha. Weird though since I was actually turning the wheel to go through the curves.
There’s a new product I use that lasts longer than RainX called iTekt. Not sure if they sell in the US, but check out their page : www.iTekt.comGot it, thanks! I hit it with the Rain-X spray when I did my windows but like I said, no dice--it's as-bad as it was before.
What I'll try to do is hit it with some camera lens anti-fog which I already have for my camera kit. I'll see how it does. If not, I'll definitely pick up some car-based anti-fog like you recommend.Thanks again!
Yeah, that’s been mentioned before.I’m not going to read through all 105 pages but I just noticed a few months ago after a few years of ownership that when you out the car into Sport mode, the head up display digital speedometer italicizes.
Noted. Might have been what happened.Agree, I've tried using mine in stop and go traffic, and it's pretty aggressive pulling away (like it wants to hit the 20mph min even if the car ahead had just rolled a few car lengths) and incredibly aggressive waiting until the last minute and stopping short. I know it's a lot to expect it to look to cars ahead and anticipate (both decel and accel), but the slam stops make it pretty much unusable at the times I'd most like to use it.
If you were turning the wheel in sync with the lane keep system, following its movement through curves, it wouldn't necessarily detect that you were doing anything. But if you give it a slight wiggle, doing something different than what the auto steer is doing (steering slightly sharper, or resisting the other way) will immediately get picked up. On trips I usually rest a hand at the bottom of the wheel and just give it the tiniest nudge when it alerts.
I'll look into it, thanks!There’s a new product I use that lasts longer than RainX called iTekt. Not sure if they sell in the US, but check out their page : www.iTekt.com
You're probably missing a bunch of info!I’m not going to read through all 105 pages but I just noticed a few months ago after a few years of ownership that when you out the car into Sport mode, the head up display digital speedometer italicizes.
I’m not going to read through all 105 pages but I just noticed a few months ago after a few years of ownership that when you out the car into Sport mode, the head up display digital speedometer italicizes.
You can just leave a tab open and browse a few pages a day. I did that for a few weeks and learned a ton.You're probably missing a bunch of info!
i think the sound quality is different between using bluetooth or a cord. i think its better with a cord. anyone else notice this? i have my youtube music settings to the highest playback quality.Interesting thing I discovered...
When using Bluetooth on my phone (i.e. not plugged in), if I'm listening to my own MP3's (Oneplus 9 pro and MusicOLet app, for reference), I always get the album art (if available) one the media screen, unless it connects when I'm in the middle of a song, then I get no album art for that song, but the next song and subsequent songs I get the album art.
However...
If I'm listening to Pandora, I don't get any album art unless it connects in the middle of a song, and once the new song starts...no album art for any songs--like completely reversed of normal in-phone MP3's
Plugged in Android Auto makes the whole situation moot, but for short trips without the need for any GPS I usually don't bother plugging my phone in.
And yes, all of the phone/app settings have it push album art over bluetooth.
Very minor thing, but I find it odd the the behavior is completely reversed. I don't think it's the phone because my last car had an aftermarket head unit which pulled the album art regardless.
Yes, It will be. Bluetooth as a standard was never meant to be stretched to the level we have pushed it to. Especially with audio, it will never sound quite as good as with a wire. the only time where you wont see a difference in quality when you are wireless, is if your device is sending the data over a wifi network, like the way most carplay/android auto wireless adapters work. Wifi can handle much more data (as evidence by carplay/aa being able to be projected in the first place) than bluetooth ever will.i think the sound quality is different between using bluetooth or a cord. i think its better with a cord. anyone else notice this? i have my youtube music settings to the highest playback quality.
It really depends on the DACs. Your sound on a phone originates as bits and has to be converted to analog at some point. The DAC on your phone is used when using a phono cable, where the DAC on your car's stereo is used when using the USB cable or BT. BT can compress stuff which can cause a lossy connection, and there are other important pieces such as bitrate. We are up to version 5.2 or something like that so who knows what they do these days.i think the sound quality is different between using bluetooth or a cord. i think its better with a cord. anyone else notice this? i have my youtube music settings to the highest playback quality.
5.2 Is actually the current version, good guess! but unfortunately, to take advantage of the benefits that 5.2 offers, both sides have to be up to standard. Now, I know that the 18's through 21s use 4.0, which is 5 or 6 versions behind, but the 22+ may be using a newer standard. If you have an android phone, you can actually go into the developer settings while connected to the car, and under the Bluetooth settings, it will tell you which audio codex's it can use. once you can see what's available to use, you can determine the Bluetooth version from a google search.It really depends on the DACs. Your sound on a phone originates as bits and has to be converted to analog at some point. The DAC on your phone is used when using a phono cable, where the DAC on your car's stereo is used when using the USB cable or BT. BT can compress stuff which can cause a lossy connection, and there are other important pieces such as bitrate. We are up to version 5.2 or something like that so who knows what they do these days.
That could be a carplay issue, a Spotify issue, or even your phone. I know Spotify had built in settings about quality that differ on wifi and mobile data.I find that the sound quality over the wired Apple Carplay is quite bad. Worse than BT. At least on Spotify. Switched to Tidal recently and it sounds a little better.
I can't tell; I was young and stupid and stood right in front of the speaker stacks (without hearing protection) during metal concerts in my 20's, which a number on my hearing.i think the sound quality is different between using bluetooth or a cord. i think its better with a cord. anyone else notice this? i have my youtube music settings to the highest playback quality.