3.3TT Intake valves manual cleaning.

I know carb cleaner is not effective as this cleaning. But I’ve sprayed a whole can of it in the valves and let the car idle without reving. I bet everything was washed away into the exhaust steam didn’t worry about a thing. Even used carb cleaner on the GDI injectors to melt does the seals a bit in ease to remove them without getting them broken. Because they’re fragile if not handled well.

But ended up with a new throttle body due carb cleaning it frequently.

I think he vacuumed them out. And I take valves supposed to be fully closed or done one at a time since when you close one the other side opens.
You would loose that bet. Even after soaking the valves for 2 hours, I still have to scrape it off with metal picks, than blow all this garbage out with compressed air. Than cleaned the ports with brake cleaner. Spraying any cleaner with engine running will do absolutely nothing. Once the closed valves were cleaned, I manually rotate the engine to close remaining valves, and cleaned them.
 
You would loose that bet. Even after soaking the valves for 2 hours, I still have to scrape it off with metal picks, than blow all this garbage out with compressed air. Than cleaning the ports with brake cleaner. Spraying any cleaner with engine running will do absolutely nothing.
Yea but in my opinion a little carbon build up is still considered a clean engine. Seen worse than what you’ve showed. If you would go clean your spark plug tubes next don’t do it with compressed air as it will make valves not fully closed. As said by you that is just kind of waste as carb cleaner is not a carbon cleaner. I would rather use crc valve cleaner or Seafoam for better results. But your way is ideal. Just because the carbon soot and deposits will stick into pieces of metal and aluminum. Your way is the preferred way and mine is not.
 
Another update. As I hit 140k miles (60k miles from my last cleaning), it was time to do it again. To my surprise they were not very dirty at all. I don't drive hard, replace the oil every 3k miles with synthetic, and always use shell 93. Same with the spark plugs, that looked decent as well. So, looks like I should be fine for 80k or even 100k miles, before I have to do it again. Also, replaced the spark plugs and coils with upgraded ones. View attachment 88198View attachment 88199View attachment 88200View attachment 88201View attachment 88202
Do you notice a difference in smooth idle or throttle response?
 
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Spraying any cleaner with engine running will do absolutely nothing.
Well, that's true as a one-time exercise, but continuously misting a solvent over them (gasoline via port injection) seems to do a decent job :cool:

I would be curious to hear if anyone who's run either a catch can or charge pipe injection long-term has inspected their valves. Would be nice to compare the buildup, or lack thereof.
 
Do you notice a difference in smooth idle or throttle response?
It wasn't rough before. But, on my way to work this morning it felt like I picked 10-15hp. Maybe just a placebo.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Well, that's true as a one-time exercise, but continuously misting a solvent over them (gasoline via port injection) seems to do a decent job :cool:

I would be curious to hear if anyone who's run either a catch can or charge pipe injection long-term has inspected their valves. Would be nice to compare the buildup, or lack thereof.
What do you mean by continuously via port Injection?
 
What do you mean by continuously via port Injection?
Carbon buildup on valves is a direct injection phenomenon. Port injection engines spray gas in the intake runners, upstream of the intake valves, so they're constantly being washed.

Adding charge pipe injection effectively turns our cars into a simple version of dual injection (because you won't have the capacity or logic to switch between them) I believe Ford runs just port injection at idle & low load to keep things quiet, then adds direct injection up higher, while Toyota runs both until high load/revs where it goes pure DI.

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Carbon buildup on valves is a direct injection phenomenon. Port injection engines spray gas in the intake runners, upstream of the intake valves, so they're constantly being washed.

Adding charge pipe injection effectively turns our cars into a simple version of dual injection (because you won't have the capacity or logic to switch between them) I believe Ford runs just port injection at idle & low load to keep things quiet, then adds direct injection up higher, while Toyota runs both until high load/revs where it goes pure DI.

View attachment 88209
I know all that. I thought you were talking about stinger. New 2.5 stinger has dual injection, not 3.3
 
I know all that. I thought you were talking about stinger. New 2.5 stinger has dual injection, not 3.3
I'm saying I'd like to see what a GDI-only 3.3's valves look like after running a catch can for a lot of miles, and perhaps one with CPI as well since it should have similar cleaning effects to dual injection
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'm saying I'd like to see what a GDI-only 3.3's valves look like after running a catch can for a lot of miles, and perhaps one with CPI as well since it should have similar cleaning effects to dual injection
Theoretically, catch can should reduce carbon build. But I haven't seen any testing results on stinger. Same with CPI.
 
Well, that's true as a one-time exercise, but continuously misting a solvent over them (gasoline via port injection) seems to do a decent job :cool:

I would be curious to hear if anyone who's run either a catch can or charge pipe injection long-term has inspected their valves. Would be nice to compare the buildup, or lack thereof.
I want to Carbon Fibre Dip my rocker covers, so once i remove my manifold i will have a look and post the results of 15000km's with a BMS Maintenace Free catch can. :thumbup:

Might even put heat sleeve around the fuel lines at the injector rail while the manifold is off... :whistle:
 
Theoretically, catch can should reduce carbon build. But I haven't seen any testing results on stinger. Same with CPI.

The most convincing argument for having a catch can on any ICE vehicle is: Porsche have had "air / oil separators" as part of their factory engine bays for many years. Porsche are not know for fitting stuff that's not required..........
 
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The most convincing argument for having a catch can on any ICE vehicle is: Porsche have had "air / oil separators" as part of their factory engine bays for many years. Porsche are not know for fitting stuff that's not required..........
Being a Porsche fan and having a 911 997 turbo as a dream car, I will take it as a legit argument.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Did the valve clean on our Cerato GT at 60000km's... yes they were filthy, my wife doesn't know what give it the beans at least once a week means

No it didn't feel any different once finished

And I disconnected the battery and took it for a thrashing for the trans to relearn.

No different... go figure ?
 
As KIA suggests in 6k intervals. The car rides more in city than in highways.
 
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