Installation of Mirror with HomeLink and Compass

..... i had to splice in the red wire from the GEntex 1027 to the gray wire from the GT stock harness. Homelink works along with the Compass. On to my next option. Rear wing and Muffler tips!
 
..... i had to splice in the red wire from the GEntex 1027 to the gray wire from the GT stock harness. Homelink works along with the Compass. On to my next option. Rear wing and Muffler tips!
So the grey wire in the stock harness is hot when the car is on? Gotta figure out how to run that to the stock GT2 mirror, since there's really no space in there.
 
I spiced the grey wire above the harness then added attached a new wire to the Red wire above the harness from the GEntex 1027.
 
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So the grey wire in the stock harness is hot when the car is on? Gotta figure out how to run that to the stock GT2 mirror, since there's really no space in there.
Not sure if this matters, but the stock mirror, when installed in my GT2, would allow the GDO buttons to work with either ignition ON or OFF. The compass would only work with ignition on.

Prob need to determine which wire is used to power the GDO and then splice to the power on the car harness. Could use a jumper wire as i believe Randal did but i would splice the car harness power and then run a new wire to the GDO position within the car harness and just add a new pin. That way you dont have to splice the mirror harness and then have some funky install. If splice and pin a new wire into the car harness it should be an easy install and removal in the future if needed.

You can get the little pins from any radio shack or similar electronics shop...
 
Not sure if this matters, but the stock mirror, when installed in my GT2, would allow the GDO buttons to work with either ignition ON or OFF. The compass would only work with ignition on.

Prob need to determine which wire is used to power the GDO and then splice to the power on the car harness. Could use a jumper wire as i believe Randal did but i would splice the car harness power and then run a new wire to the GDO position within the car harness and just add a new pin. That way you dont have to splice the mirror harness and then have some funky install. If splice and pin a new wire into the car harness it should be an easy install and removal in the future if needed.

You can get the little pins from any radio shack or similar electronics shop...

Yeah, that's the goal. Will check my local shop and see what's available. I'm 99% sure I know which pin it is since I can compare the units, so just need to find a hot wire and splice in.

Plus, when I splice that, I can pull power for a dash cam.
 
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The hot wire with the ignition on is the grey wire. It was the only one I checked as that is what I was looking for.
 
The hot wire with the ignition on is the grey wire. It was the only one I checked as that is what I was looking for.

Yeah, there should be a few hots. Hot when awake (Like dome lights), hot when on, hot when on + not in reverse (Rear dimming turns off when in reverse). Would like to tap the hot when awake, so I can open the door without turning the car on.

The GT might be missing that wire though. The dimmer light wont come on unless the car is in acc mode, so the dimmer light must connected to hot when on, and the dimmer itself linked to hot when not in reverse, so there would be no need for hot when awake.

Car electric systems are dumb.
 
Yeah, there should be a few hots. Hot when awake (Like dome lights), hot when on, hot when on + not in reverse (Rear dimming turns off when in reverse). Would like to tap the hot when awake, so I can open the door without turning the car on.

The GT might be missing that wire though. The dimmer light wont come on unless the car is in acc mode, so the dimmer light must connected to hot when on, and the dimmer itself linked to hot when not in reverse, so there would be no need for hot when awake.

Car electric systems are dumb.
Double think OPEN Door When Car NOT on in case you ever need to park outside. My preference would be to power the GDO from a switched (ignition ON only) source.

The stock behavior is:
Ignition ON for Dim to Work
No Dim in Reverse
GDO work ALWAYS
 
Found the wiring diagram elsewhere:

989e6475-0478-479e-8490-b66527712f41-jpeg.7334


Looks like the GT is missing pin 10

20180515_164432-jpg.7331


So you would need to connect pin 6 and pin 10, and then you'll have power to the homelink buttons when ignition is on.

Side note: I have no idea what OEC is.
 
If the GT has PIN 6, you should be able to TAP 6 and then feed a new line with new pin to 10...that should allow the GDO to take power when IGN is ON.

I could do the same on my GT2, un-pin 10 and then TAP 6 and run a new line OR cut 10 and wrap off and then tap pin 10 from pin 6.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
OEC = 'Outside Electro-Chromatic'. If the car's door mirrors are (also) auto-dimming, that wire controls it.
 
@BlaydeX15 thanks for posting the diagram. I am looking to change my rear view mirror with a frameless one with the same features as the factory one. Any recommendations?
 
@BlaydeX15 thanks for posting the diagram. I am looking to change my rear view mirror with a frameless one with the same features as the factory one. Any recommendations?
The Gentex brand is what you're looking for, they should all be plug and play, provided you don't need to jump wires to get homelink on a GT/Base model. Their GENK85A is their frameless/homelink model.

You could also probably get another brand to work, but I'm not sure about wiring/mounting space.
 
If the GT has PIN 6, you should be able to TAP 6 and then feed a new line with new pin to 10...that should allow the GDO to take power when IGN is ON.

I could do the same on my GT2, un-pin 10 and then TAP 6 and run a new line OR cut 10 and wrap off and then tap pin 10 from pin 6.

Yep, just need to figure out the best way to do that. Thinking a posi-tap, but I'm not sure I'll be able to shove the other end into the wiring harness. Lol.

Edit: Actually, something like this would work better, just need one wire with 2 pointy ends, and stick it into the harness. Just need to figure out what they're called so I don't have to spend $45 to buy a kit. Lol

41cuADtB10L.jpg
 
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This is all so confusing and to make matters worse there are so many model differences between Canada and the USA. Has anyone discovered if the Base Canadian GT has a plug and play option available for this or would I have to splice and reroute wires?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
This is all so confusing and to make matters worse there are so many model differences between Canada and the USA. Has anyone discovered if the Base Canadian GT has a plug and play option available for this or would I have to splice and reroute wires?

If the base Canadian GT doesn't have homelink, you'll probably have to mess around with wires.
 
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The base GT does not have battery/ homelink in pin 10. Thus you would need to TAP.
 
Yep, just need to figure out the best way to do that. Thinking a posi-tap, but I'm not sure I'll be able to shove the other end into the wiring harness. Lol.

Edit: Actually, something like this would work better, just need one wire with 2 pointy ends, and stick it into the harness. Just need to figure out what they're called so I don't have to spend $45 to buy a kit. Lol

41cuADtB10L.jpg
I think would work well. Limited vibration or movement up there so no real worry for them to come loose. If you have Frys Electronics nearby they have super reasonable pricing on the parts you would need to repin the wire properly...well at least mine does by me. I use it for my RC trucks and drones...very similar harnesses
 
Went to several shops to find something to connect pin 6 and 10, didn't find what I needed so made one myself. Started with a plastic coated paper clip, and with trial and error came up with a shape to connect it perfectly. The 10 pin needed more depth and thickness so just made that side longer and doubled up the paper clip. For the 6 pin it needed to be shorter and needed to be slim to shim it in so I cut it shorter and just used sand paper to slim it down and sharpen the tip. Went in perfect and is wedged in very tight so it won't work loose. HomeLink works perfect now on my base 2.0.




20180825_170933.webp
 
Went to several shops to find something to connect pin 6 and 10, didn't find what I needed so made one myself. Started with a plastic coated paper clip, and with trial and error came up with a shape to connect it perfectly. The 10 pin needed more depth and thickness so just made that side longer and doubled up the paper clip. For the 6 pin it needed to be shorter and needed to be slim to shim it in so I cut it shorter and just used sand paper to slim it down and sharpen the tip. Went in perfect and is wedged in very tight so it won't work loose. HomeLink works perfect now on my base 2.0.




View attachment 11635
That's awesome. I want to try that.

So does they just fit on the connector? Just need to slide that piece in between pin 6 and 10?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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