If you have $2000 to put into a stinger

[xot1]

JB4, denso plug swap kit, BMS intake for around $1050 and save the rest.

Why not recommend the WMI kit with the remaining cash? Isn't Map8 the true beauty of JB4?

 

[Hydrajin]

Save up for another $500 and do intake, catback exhaust, plugs, and a jb4, big boost in performance in one shot.

And all DIY so you save labour costs, cat deletes are a little complicated if you've never done them before because they are hard to get to even with the right tools and the heat cycling rusts the parts together by the time you hit 10k so catback trumps DP and MP for it's ease of install IMO.

 

[Angel]

1. JB4 ($479)
2. Denso Plugs ($60)
3. DIY Intake ($100) or Aftermarket intake ($300-$400)
4. Secondary Downpipe ($459)
5. Intercooler ($600)

Total $1698 (with DIY intakes) or $1998 ( With aftermarket intakes)

If you are mechanically inclined you can install all these parts yourself. There are videos on you tube for all the installs.

Otherwise then you have the add the labor cost which should only be for the downpipes and maybe the intercooler.

 

[basysmith]

Another vote for intakes and jb4. You don't need new plugs, just gap existing.

If it's looks you're more interested in then 20" wheels on eibach springs. Slightly over budget but at least you'll look better than every other stock Stinger.

 

[Tonkabob]

For $2k you can hit 11.9x on 92 octane no meth. Miguel at #8 on the quarter mile list is at 12.09 with around $2k in parts on a stge 1 ecu tune. He is a big guy so that is a 11.9x car. He did cx fmic ($600?) and cx muffler delete and if you did a do it yourself intake you should be right at $2k.
I just took off my ssr mid but should still be in 11.8s but i have light wheels and stage 2 tune. Not sure if he will make stage 2 93 octane or if it will need e85 blend. But when its out you could request a 93 octane version.
Stage 1 is 18 psi on 92 octane.
Stage 2 beta is 22.6 psi currently and i use e15 or e20 blend. Could do 20 psi on 93 octane.

 

[Not Here Anymore]

For $2k you can hit 11.9x on 92 octane no meth. Miguel at #8 on the quarter mile list is at 12.09 with around $2k in parts on a stge 1 ecu tune. He is a big guy so that is a 11.9x car. He did cx fmic ($600?) and cx muffler delete and if you did a do it yourself intake you should be right at $2k.
I just took off my ssr mid but should still be in 11.8s but i have light wheels and stage 2 tune. Not sure if he will make stage 2 93 octane or if it will need e85 blend. But when its out you could request a 93 octane version.
Stage 1 is 18 psi on 92 octane.
Stage 2 beta is 22.6 psi currently and i use e15 or e20 blend. Could do 20 psi on 93 octane.

Hello Tonkabob,
thanks for the info , John told me to wait for the stage 2 tune , and I have almost all that is needed for tune with FMIC ,Mid pipes with cat delete, and I run mostly 94-97 octane straight time ,but I might have to change my one degree colder Denso plugs then 2 degree older plugs perhaps ,looking at the stage 1 flash ,, that is faster than what I have right now !!!!on another note the jun BL removed the secondary cats which I may have to put back due to over spooling but for 2 k looks like you can gain a lot!!!

 

[MrSmoofy]

1. JB4 ($479)
2. Denso Plugs ($60)
3. DIY Intake ($100) or Aftermarket intake ($300-$400)
4. Secondary Downpipe ($459)
5. Intercooler ($600)

This is pretty much my short list except I'm doing #4 first with the ARK Secondary Downpipe since I got a deal on it for before and after dyno results with a stock 3.3 RWD

Which intake to go with is where I'm stuck and if I want the big mouth's or not. I would like the ones that come in red but wonder if any of them could be changed to red (powder coat?) to match the red engine braces from BMS

 

[Angel]

For the bigmouth you can get any color you want. Before you buy them talk to Nick or contact Velossa directly.

As far as intake that is a subjective question. I personally have the Agency power intakes and I really like them. I would not trade them for any other intake except the JT intakes. The AP/AEM have heat shields and the tubing is plastic.

Honestly if you are trying to save money then do the DIY intakes and get the Velossa. That would come around $350. If you don't like the DIY intakes then go the aftermarket intake route and still get the velossa snorkles. @MrSmoofy

 

[Tonkabob]

Hello Tonkabob,
thanks for the info , John told me to wait for the stage 2 tune , and I have almost all that is needed for tune with FMIC ,Mid pipes with cat delete, and I run mostly 94-97 octane straight time ,but I might have to change my one degree colder Denso plugs then 2 degree older plugs perhaps ,looking at the stage 1 flash ,, that is faster than what I have right now !!!!on another note the jun BL removed the secondary cats which I may have to put back due to over spooling but for 2 k looks like you can gain a lot!!!

1 or 2 step cooler plugs is fine. I was running hks 1 cooler and the densos i have now are 1.5. (Moved up from .022 gap to .028). My e blend is only about 94 octane. I just put secondary cats back on and only lost .038 in the 1/4. (possibly nothing). Just switching brands but its a near worthless mod.
My and Miguels cars are gt2 and the fastest piggyback cars on the list gts. Tork tune seems .2 -.3 faster mod for mod from the launch and faster shifts.

 

[Not Here Anymore]

1 or 2 step cooler plugs is fine. I was running hks 1 cooler and the densos i have now are 1.5. (Moved up from .022 gap to .028). My e blend is only about 94 octane. I just put secondary cats back on and only lost .038 in the 1/4. (possibly nothing). Just switching brands but its a near worthless mod.
My and Miguels cars are gt2 and the fastest piggyback cars on the list gts. Tork tune seems .2 -.3 faster mod for mod from the launch and faster shifts.

I most likely will do the same , thinking of either stage 1 or when released the stage 2 is completed and, John sends me email to go ahead with it !

 

[Tonkabob]

I most likely will do the same , thinking of either stage 1 or when released the stage 2 is completed and, John sends me email to go ahead with it !

I see you are in canada so better stick with the 97 octane. I think canada 94 is like US 91 roughly.

 

[Not Here Anymore]

I see you are in canada so better stick with the 97 octane. I think canada 94 is like US 91 roughly.

Yes so true indeed!

 

[Not Here Anymore]

Yes the gasoline up here in Canada is not very good 94 , I heard maybe around 89 to 91 and that is why I use Boostane added to my fill ups should bring it up to a true 93 or better Octane level

 

[SteveCo]

Yes the gasoline up here in Canada is not very good 94 , I heard maybe around 89 to 91

There are multiple refineries producing gasoline, owned by different entities, that use well established refining processes and additive packages for gasoline serving many markets across Canada. They have been doing so for decades.

Gasoline has to meet regulated standards to be sold in Canada, including the advertised AKI (R+M/2) octane rating. I've yet to see any empirical evidence to support a claim that Canadian gasoline in general is 'not very good' - if you have some, please provide it as I'm keen to to where this comes from.

 

[Angel]

I will stay out of this one and let the Canadians resolve this among themselves!

 

[Not Here Anymore]

There are multiple refineries producing gasoline, owned by different entities, that use well established refining processes and additive packages for gasoline serving many markets across Canada. They have been doing so for decades.

Gasoline has to meet regulated standards to be sold in Canada, including the advertised AKI (R+M/2) octane rating. I've yet to see any empirical evidence to support a claim that Canadian gasoline in general is 'not very good' - if you have some, please provide it as I'm keen to to where this comes from.

It seems that many people involved in Mod /Performance industry here in BC say the gasoline is not looked after properly ,, some higher 94s for instance may not get used enough during the colder season and lose it s Octane values or gets sour /moisture ,so I have been told ,, this is what I have been told by many others who are into performance cars that are getting better tunes to enhance performance ,, nice to hear that they are using the additives are stated ") thanks Steve for the correction though

 

[Not Here Anymore]

I will stay out of this one and let the Canadians resolve this among themselves!

View attachment 24743

Angel I see that you hit under the 12s using the JB4 ,, I am running around 12.7s using Dragy ,, my car sucks !

 

[Angel]

Angel I see that you hit under the 12s using the JB4 ,, I am running around 12.7s using Dragy ,, my car sucks !

You car does not suck lol, we have the same car.

Looks like you have more mods than I do. The only issue I see with your mods is the "Race Chip". Give that Race chip away and buy a JB4.

Hit the Track and see what times you get. I personally don't use Dragy. I assume you must have a 1/4 drag strip in Canada?

I ran 12.5 last year with just DIY intakes and SSR Downpipes with the JB4 on Map 2 with the old firmware. You have a good set up you just need to raffle that Race chip and get a JB4. If you want to go a step further and fuel is an issue in your area get WMI kit.

 

[Angel]

On a dif

Angel I see that you hit under the 12s using the JB4 ,, I am running around 12.7s using Dragy ,, my car sucks !

On a different note how do you like the UP intercooler?

Did you notice a difference after installing the Sub frame bolt spacers?

 

[Tonkabob]

Angel I see that you hit under the 12s using the JB4 ,, I am running around 12.7s using Dragy ,, my car sucks !

And dragy runs are typically .2 or .3 faster than the track due to cooler intake temps.
My best is 11.58 dragy and 11.86 track. 11.58 was a cold day but also ran an 11.62 on the way to the track one day.