How to remove and install spark plugs for your Kia Stinger

Yes that's the one I'm talking about the one under the intake. Can you do damage to the coils of not careful?
I just did that one real slow. Has a good angle but comes out fairly easy.
 
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Boy am I happy it's possible to do without all that extra work. Glad I came across that YouTube clip. Thanks for testing it out and confirming
 
Anybody knows the bolt size that goes around the manifold? I lost one and dont know what size.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Im having another problem with rough idle and I told them that it was either mis-firing or I thought something was clogged. But last time I took the car in (and had to do it 3x - third time, I ended up driving it for about an hour for the code to come up too!) they were finally able to run diagnostics and found out the plug was actually cracked so they replaced it. Car was driving fine for a bit and now a month later I'm having the same problem with the rough idle and sputtering. I'm thinking either I got a bad batch of plugs and probably should replace them all or just switch them out to another brand?? what are your thoughts - this is really starting to be a pain to deal with. I love the car and all but seriously?!? Never had these types of problems with my Toyota, never!
 
Just completed this the Vivid Racing way, seemed way faster than removing the intake manifold, below is the setup I used.

1. 5/8" x 6" Magnetic Swivel Socket - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ25YJU
2. 3/8" Drive Universal Joint - https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Universal-Joint-Drive/dp/B00GWBLLQ8
3. 3/8" x 6" Extension - https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-14208-8-Inch-6-Inch-Extension/dp/B000NY6RD2/
4. 3/8" Drive Wrench & 3" Extension - Pickup locally at a hardware store, could probably pickup #2 & #3 there as well.
5. 10mm 60-degree offset wrench (not pictured) - https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80620-Offset-Bleeder/dp/B000N35LKI/

The offset wrench was incredibly helpful for getting the coil packs off. Note that the purpose of the 6" extension and the 3" extension is so you can remove one as needed depending on what you're doing or you'll be too high and hitting the hood.

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Nope. All the people selling them say that, but all of them installed on problem engines that I’ve seen have shown no reduction in carbon build-up (even when starting from clean valves). One researcher even completely separated the PCV system from the intake and showed no reduction of carbon build-up, so it’s doubtful a catch can will beat that result.

Use a great oil (full synthetic Dexos 1 gen2 or API SN Plus with low NOACK), low viscosity range so there are minimal friction modifiers (10W-30 would be best if you don’t get freezing temps or use 5W-30 if you have cold weather), and change it often (5k miles or sooner depending on operating conditions). I have an oil and carbon prevention thread in the engine section if you’re interested. I started it for the 4cyl engines (since that’s what a I own), but the V6 is direct injection also and probably will face carbon build up as well. The question is just how long. It’s anybody’s guess, but nearly all GDI engines without additional port injectors have the problem at some level.
I know you can't believe everything you see on the Internet, but every once in a while there is truth.
I found this video very helpful. Maybe others have seen it and would like to comment. After seeing it I made up my mind and ordered a catch can kit.
 
I know you can't believe everything you see on the Internet, but every once in a while there is truth.
I found this video very helpful. Maybe others have seen it and would like to comment. After seeing it I made up my mind and ordered a catch can kit.

That's actually a very good video that one.
 
I know you can't believe everything you see on the Internet, but every once in a while there is truth.
I found this video very helpful. Maybe others have seen it and would like to comment. After seeing it I made up my mind and ordered a catch can kit.
And you put that in a spark plug thread...because?
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
And you put that in a spark plug thread...because?
The talk came up in the thread about being able to see the valves with the intake manifold cover off and it got into talk about oil catch cans.
 

Two issues I saw while he at a shop did not do. 1) Was a tech for 26 years and found even the coils that have a rubber to keep water and dirt some dirt always gets in, I would recommending (if in a shop) use compressed air to blow dirt from within the hole or (if at home) a can or 2 of compressed air. Be careful not to get dirt in your eyes or the lower intake. 2) Never reuse the intake manifold gaskets (those orange circles of rubber) and since you won't be replacing plugs for a long replacing them is a good idea. Also check to see if there is a sequence for tightening and torque specs, doubtful the spec to the intake doesn't say is electric drill tight.
 
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Just changed the spark plugs on my 2019 Kia Stinger GTS!

This is the video I used to take off the intake manifold, makes changing the spark plugs much easier.
The two weird bolts that some of you are seeing on the hose clamps on the connection between what I believe is the throttle body and charge pipe is actually just CAPS for what is a regular flat head bolt. Take pliers and gently pull the CAPS off!
 
The one thing I didn't see in the video is a bolt (14mm socket needed) down below and behind the throttle body which bolts to an additional support bracket, this needed to be removed.
 
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