How to remove and install spark plugs for your Kia Stinger

[Kia Stinger]

 

[Eugene Onegin]

Good G-D almighty ,looks like I'll be considering a 2.0 .

 

[Kamauxx]

Some tips...

I used a few small zip lock bags to keep the different nuts/bolts separated. I labeled the bags "mainfold" or "throttle bottle brace" for easy identification.

For a few of them I referenced the video to remind me where the bolt came from. For instance, labeling a zip lock bag "7:45" so that I could just scroll through the video to see exactly where the bolt needs to go.

 

[CaliSting]

My plugs on my Cayman are easier. Amazing!

 

[Sensibly Spirited Driver]

Good G-D almighty ,looks like I'll be considering a 2.0 .

And here I thought a Kia would be easier to work on than a Saab. The oil change is silly, with the filter on the bottom instead of the top of the car, and the spark plugs are covered by the intake manifold? Holy guacamole Tuscon salad. For those who prefer to run copper plugs and change frequently, well...I'm speechless. Spark plugs should be a 5 minute job, max. This is ludicrous. I guess Genesis was trying to copy the designed-to-get-you-into-a-dealer theme of European brands, and one up them. Thanks Hyundai! What a nice design to put in a Kia. My fantasy of a simple to maintain muscle car has been destroyed. I'm not a fan of iridium, too much stress on coils. Hopefully the coils are cheap. I'm going to sleep now, and will pretend I never saw this.

 

[Richard Smith]

Great video...

 

[Mach_Tuck]

And here I thought a Kia would be easier to work on than a Saab. The oil change is silly, with the filter on the bottom instead of the top of the car, and the spark plugs are covered by the intake manifold? Holy guacamole Tuscon salad. For those who prefer to run copper plugs and change frequently, well...I'm speechless. Spark plugs should be a 5 minute job, max. This is ludicrous. I guess Genesis was trying to copy the designed-to-get-you-into-a-dealer theme of European brands, and one up them. Thanks Hyundai! What a nice design to put in a Kia. My fantasy of a simple to maintain muscle car has been destroyed. I'm not a fan of iridium, too much stress on coils. Hopefully the coils are cheap. I'm going to sleep now, and will pretend I never saw this.

Exactly. My E46 M3 oil change and sparks are loads simpler. Can do oil in 25 min without spilling one drop...a feat impossible on this Kia!! And the plugs...I guess the M Division dude Biermann didn't have any say in engine design.

Honestly it's a joke and all intended to get you into stealership. Hell, even the license plat bulb says "take to dealer"

 

[Beege]

Anyone know how to get to the two bolts on the throttle body? They are upside down and I can't seem to get to them.

 

[StingEm]

Wow. At least you 3.3 guys have it fairly easy pulling the intake manifold when it comes time to clean the carbon off the valves. And you will have had a lot of practice from plug changes.

The plugs are infinitely easier on the 2.0, but the intake manifold looks like a harder job for the small engine.

 

[Kamauxx]

Anyone know how to get to the two bolts on the throttle body? They are upside down and I can't seem to get to them.

I didn't remove the throttle body.

 

[Mach_Tuck]

Wow. At least you 3.3 guys have it fairly easy pulling the intake manifold when it comes time to clean the carbon off the valves. And you will have had a lot of practice from plug changes.

The plugs are infinitely easier on the 2.0, but the intake manifold looks like a harder job for the small engine.

Oil Catch Can...hopefully will mitigate this need or at least reduce it significantly

 

[StingEm]

Oil Catch Can...hopefully will mitigate this need or at least reduce it significantly

Nope. All the people selling them say that, but all of them installed on problem engines that I’ve seen have shown no reduction in carbon build-up (even when starting from clean valves). One researcher even completely separated the PCV system from the intake and showed no reduction of carbon build-up, so it’s doubtful a catch can will beat that result.

Use a great oil (full synthetic Dexos 1 gen2 or API SN Plus with low NOACK), low viscosity range so there are minimal friction modifiers (10W-30 would be best if you don’t get freezing temps or use 5W-30 if you have cold weather), and change it often (5k miles or sooner depending on operating conditions). I have an oil and carbon prevention thread in the engine section if you’re interested. I started it for the 4cyl engines (since that’s what a I own), but the V6 is direct injection also and probably will face carbon build up as well. The question is just how long. It’s anybody’s guess, but nearly all GDI engines without additional port injectors have the problem at some level.

 

[Beege]

I didn't remove the throttle body.

So I'm referring to the pipe that connects to the throttle body. It's the pipe that goes down between the throttle body and the front bumper. Its for the bracket that holds the rubber connector on to the throttle body.

 

[Kamauxx]

So I'm referring to the pipe that connects to the throttle body. It's the pipe that goes down between the throttle body and the front bumper. Its for the bracket that holds the rubber connector on to the throttle body.

If I remember correctly and understand where you're talking about there's just one big bolt to the side of it that holds it on.

 

[Beege]

If I remember correctly and understand where you're talking about there's just one big bolt to the side of it that holds it on.

There's the clamp that goes all the way around and holds the rubber connector on the pipe to the throttle body. It looks like that needs to be loosened to pull the pipe away from the throttle body to be able to flip the intake manifold away

 

[Kamauxx]

Ohhh, you have to loosen the weird ass bolt on that clamp. I didn't have and have never seen the proper tool for loosening that thing so I used a pair of pliers instead. It took a long time and my forearms got a good workout but it's the only way I could figure to do it. If you have vice-grips they'll make short work of it.

I noticed in Tork's video they had a different bolt there so I assume they replaced it with a bolt with a normal head, which is probably a good idea.

 

[Beege]

Ohhh, you have to loosen the weird ass bolt on that clamp. I didn't have and have never seen the proper tool for loosening that thing so I used a pair of pliers instead. It took a long time and my forearms got a good workout but it's the only way I could figure to do it. If you have vice-grips they'll make short work of it.

I noticed in Tork's video they had a different bolt there so I assume they replaced it with a bolt with a normal head, which is probably a good idea.

Ya and they turned it so it's visible on the top and easier to access. I can't even tell what type of bolt is stock. I'll try the pliers/grips. Thanks

 

[Kamauxx]

Ya and they turned it so it's visible on the top and easier to access. I can't even tell what type of bolt is stock. I'll try the pliers/grips. Thanks

You're starting to jog my memory more and more. Once you get it a little loose you'll be able to rotate it so the bolt from Jupiter is on top.

 

[Mach_Tuck]

Nope. All the people selling them say that, but all of them installed on problem engines that I’ve seen have shown no reduction in carbon build-up (even when starting from clean valves). One researcher even completely separated the PCV system from the intake and showed no reduction of carbon build-up, so it’s doubtful a catch can will beat that result.

Use a great oil (full synthetic Dexos 1 gen2 or API SN Plus with low NOACK), low viscosity range so there are minimal friction modifiers (10W-30 would be best if you don’t get freezing temps or use 5W-30 if you have cold weather), and change it often (5k miles or sooner depending on operating conditions). I have an oil and carbon prevention thread in the engine section if you’re interested. I started it for the 4cyl engines (since that’s what a I own), but the V6 is direct injection also and probably will face carbon build up as well. The question is just how long. It’s anybody’s guess, but nearly all GDI engines without additional port injectors have the problem at some level.

Thanks for the info. I suppose time will tell. Good thing i "get" to look at the valves during plug swap!! Ive had my OCC on for 1000 of 1800 miles and there is certainly "catchings" in the can. Although it may not be 100% of what came out of the PCV, i can say that 100% of whats in the can DID NOT go back to the valves

5K - 7.5K with full synthetic is my normal oil change schedule with the extreme heat and dust in AZ.

 

[Big Ern]

I'm about to change out my plugs but I was hoping to get some help with this. Will I still use the same spark plug gapping recommendations (about 0.026" with the HKS-45iL's) if I have changed out the intakes and exhaust? Recently upgraded to K&N cold air intakes with Borla type-s exhaust. Just want to be sure I don't have to adjust for those mods.