Show me what it looks like
Is this prior to cleaning or after?
They are in good shape.Prior, still didnt clean it yet.
Show me what it looks like
Walnut blasting is the most effective method, we just need someone to 3D print the piece that snuggly fits on the intake port of the stinger so we can connect the vacuum and pressure nozzle at the same time. I have seen people modify a rubber hose to work but it not as good at keeping the walnut from going around.
Something like this that is made for Audi/BMWs etc,
Not much for deposits, just an even coating. I would think you could easily double that mileage before needing to walnut blast it. Looks real nice after though!
How much did that cost?
Not much for deposits, just an even coating. I would think you could easily double that mileage before needing to walnut blast it. Looks real nice after though!
How much did that cost?
Both @General_Vodka and I have snapped some pictures of the intake valves.
Here is one set of intake runners on my G70, this is at about 8,700 miles. Dual catch can was installed around 2,000 miles.
View attachment 46460
While a catch can will help with carbon buildup in the intake valves, it won't completely stop it.
For cleaning, I recommend CRC GDI intake valve cleaner, or something equivalent, and spray the valves directly (when closed) by removing the surge tank and intake manifold, then allow the spray to sit for a few minutes. It literally dissolves the carbon. Scrub them a little with a toothbrush, then suck up the excess fluid and wipe things down with a shop towel. Repeat for the rest of the cylinders. You will have to rotate the crank by hand to make sure the next set of valves are closed before spraying.
It's time consuming, but no special tools are needed, and it results in beautifully carbon-free valves.
Yes my stinger is the same way in the winter time and I have to empty the catch can more frequently tooI wouldn’t go so far to say that, they just help mitigate. People shouldn’t expect catch cans to be a total solution. Oil still makes it down the valve guides and seals and some probably makes it past the cans as a light vapor. The less the CRC has to break down the better.
On my truck my can catches what looks like a vomit-like water/oil sludge during the winter. Definitely don’t need that stuff recirculating. I have yet to see if the Stinger has the same issue.
I use CRC intake valve and turbo cleaner right before every oil change. It’s easy to use. Follow the directions on the can. You really feel the difference after the treatment. It is crucial that you clean the valves and turbos BEFORE you change the oil, that way you you can slough off all the dirt when draining the oil.The dealer recommends to take your Stinger every 7,500 miles in for a fuel system additive to clean your fuel system. After some research I found out they just Techron complete fuel system. Now you can buy this at any part store or Walmart for like 6 bucks. I believe the dealer charges like 60 bucks for the service. So why not just buy the bottle and pour it yourself? I found out that thy also put some valve cleaner up the air vacuum to clean the air valves since its GDI.
What are you using to clean your valves? What procedure are you doing?
Please share your experiences. Trying to save some money but I am also trying to prolong the life of my engine.
Those valves don't look that bad, assume you have a catch can?Found a local guy specializing in walnut blasting and took the car to him. Work still ongoing, should be ready tom. Pics so far attached.
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Doing injector cleaning as well.
I did an oil change two weeks ago and my first cold-weather catch can check for the Stinger.Yes my stinger is the same way in the winter time and I have to empty the catch can more frequently too