3.3TT How are Stinger owners cleaning their valves on their GDI engines?

What can I say? Usually, I stop going to the service centres as soon as a cars warranty runs out, but with the Kia, that's 7 years...
You do not have to have work done at the dealership to maintain your warranty. An independent mechanic can change your oil, etc., as long as it is properly documented and at the correct intervals.
 
That is the most frequent oil changing I've heard anyone do. There's no way that you can "kill your car with kindness" changing oil, so, have at it! :thumbup:

ive got one of those oil extractors, it literally takes 20mins to do the job ( I only change the filter once in between services) and I buy my oil when it goes on special, so for the life of my cars, their oil will always be like honey, and as we all know, It’s dirt in the oil that’s one of the main contributors to engine wear.
 
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The dealer recommends to take your Stinger every 7,500 miles in for a fuel system additive to clean your fuel system. After some research I found out they just Techron complete fuel system. Now you can buy this at any part store or Walmart for like 6 bucks. I believe the dealer charges like 60 bucks for the service. So why not just buy the bottle and pour it yourself? I found out that thy also put some valve cleaner up the air vacuum to clean the air valves since its GDI.

What are you using to clean your valves? What procedure are you doing?

Please share your experiences. Trying to save some money but I am also trying to prolong the life of my engine.
Hello my fellow Stinger owner. BEFIRE every oil change I use CRC intake valve and turbo cleaner. Read the directions. Pretty simple to use. It is important that you do it BEFORE the oil change to ensure that any build up is sloughed off while draining the oil. My previous vehicle was a 2016 Kia Optima 2.0 turbo GDI. I always saw amazing results to that car after each use. Hoe this helps.
 
My car has roughly 42k miles now, I know the dealer performed a BG Intake Valve cleaning at 25k miles. The BG job is where they spray a mist of the BG valve cleaner while the car idles for around 30min, not sure how effective it is.

Anyways, I got an endoscope camera and passed it through the throttle body and managed to get to one of the intake banks, I will upload pics later as I dont have a TF card reader at the moment. I didn't like what I saw, the build up was noticeable and my car has dual OCC for two years that I clean every 2.5k miles. When I pulled the endoscope out it was dirty with the carbon build up on it.

I want to remove the intake mani and soak the valves and clean them manually. I searched high and low for CRC or any type of intake cleaner and I couldn't find any locally, international shipping from amazon is $80 per CRC can as its hazardous.

What is a good alternative to CRC cleaner? E.g Brake Cleaner, Toulene, Xyelene etc etc.

Would appreciate any opinions.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
My car has roughly 42k miles now, I know the dealer performed a BG Intake Valve cleaning at 25k miles. The BG job is where they spray a mist of the BG valve cleaner while the car idles for around 30min, not sure how effective it is.

Anyways, I got an endoscope camera and passed it through the throttle body and managed to get to one of the intake banks, I will upload pics later as I dont have a TF card reader at the moment. I didn't like what I saw, the build up was noticeable and my car has dual OCC for two years that I clean every 2.5k miles. When I pulled the endoscope out it was dirty with the carbon build up on it.

I want to remove the intake mani and soak the valves and clean them manually. I searched high and low for CRC or any type of intake cleaner and I couldn't find any locally, international shipping from amazon is $80 per CRC can as its hazardous.

What is a good alternative to CRC cleaner? E.g Brake Cleaner, Toulene, Xyelene etc etc.

Would appreciate any opinions.

Similar products by: Sea Foam; Berryman; STP; and Lucas. PEA is the active ingredient they all share.

Some of the prices are insane.
 
I always knew the catch can craze was a load of rubbish.

I wouldn’t go so far to say that, they just help mitigate. People shouldn’t expect catch cans to be a total solution. Oil still makes it down the valve guides and seals and some probably makes it past the cans as a light vapor. The less the CRC has to break down the better.

On my truck my can catches what looks like a vomit-like water/oil sludge during the winter. Definitely don’t need that stuff recirculating. I have yet to see if the Stinger has the same issue.
 
Valvoline has a newer oil they call Modern Engine Oil that is supposed to help deal with deposits on the intake valves. I am going to try it out. Anyone here have experience with this oil?
 
And of course that particular valvoline oil isn’t available in Australia.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Similar products by: Sea Foam; Berryman; STP; and Lucas. PEA is the active ingredient they all share.

Some of the prices are insane.

yeah, non of those or others are available. Gonne go with brake cleaner, seems like the next best option.
 
Liqi-moly makes one...

Found some 3M Max Strength Fuel Cleaner that contains 60% PEA, just gonna pour it on the valves and let it sit for a while and see if that works.
 
You do not have to have work done at the dealership to maintain your warranty. An independent mechanic can change your oil, etc., as long as it is properly documented and at the correct intervals.
Yep, we have consumer laws that protect us from service centers using that as an excuse, but I will give it few more tries before I move on. I did move on with a previous car I owned because the service centre was so hopeless and I think they were ripping me off and telling me lies.
 
I always knew the catch can craze was a load of rubbish.
I find a lot of mods people buy should come with a consumer warning on the product. Something like "this product may reduce your hp after installation".

Back to catch cans, I have never found any video where a car owner comes back after a few thousand miles and is happy with the carbon build up on there inlet valves after installing a catch can. I have found videos where they are unhappy with the amount of carbon build up and question the effectiveness of their catch can.

I have also seen port injection engine videos with carbon build up on the inlet valves as well.

The best method I have seen is walnut blasting for a really full on clean. Down side is the price.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I find a lot of mods people buy should come with a consumer warning on the product. Something like "this product may reduce your hp after installation".

Back to catch cans, I have never found any video where a car owner comes back after a few thousand miles and is happy with the carbon build up on there inlet valves after installing a catch can. I have found videos where they are unhappy with the amount of carbon build up and question the effectiveness of their catch can.

I have also seen port injection engine videos with carbon build up on the inlet valves as well.

The best method I have seen is walnut blasting for a really full on clean. Down side is the price.

Walnut blasting is the most effective method, we just need someone to 3D print the piece that snuggly fits on the intake port of the stinger so we can connect the vacuum and pressure nozzle at the same time. I have seen people modify a rubber hose to work but it not as good at keeping the walnut from going around.

Something like this that is made for Audi/BMWs etc,
 

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I always knew the catch can craze was a load of rubbish.

It’s not rubbish. It does help extend the time between valve cleanings in DI engines. But a CC can’t do anything for combustion gas reversion that happens.
 
Walnut blasting is the most effective method, we just need someone to 3D print the piece that snuggly fits on the intake port of the stinger so we can connect the vacuum and pressure nozzle at the same time. I have seen people modify a rubber hose to work but it not as good at keeping the walnut from going around.

Something like this that is made for Audi/BMWs etc,
That honestly wouldn't be too difficult to design / print. It would just take some time with the top of the engine torn off to measure and do the testing. Great idea!
 
@Rakker
Walnut blasting is the most effective method, we just need someone to 3D print the piece that snuggly fits on the intake port of the stinger so we can connect the vacuum and pressure nozzle at the same time. I have seen people modify a rubber hose to work but it not as good at keeping the walnut from going around.

Something like this that is made for Audi/BMWs etc,
 
Here are the endoscopy pics, not sure which bank this is.
 

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