For the JB4 which map do I run?

[KiaStingerNewb]

I'm in Irvine as well. There is a huge group of Stinger owners in OC. Follow the stungbystinger IG page. We have regular events and meet up several times throughout the year.

Niko told me to check you guys out. Looks like barely missed a big cruise couple weeks ago.

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

Map2 is a great map and by far the most popular one. The way you're driving the car, low speeds, probably the higher maps won't help much. If you start to get in to higher speed stuff like 1/4 mile then you'll notice a lot more difference with the higher maps.

Thanks. Now I just need to resolve the AIT. I wanted to feel proud and do my own DIY intake like many others, but I think I'll be better off just buying your intake soon. DIY is great if everything goes perfect but this is a great example of it's downfalls. The high temps and heat soak are probably murdering my power

 

[Tonkabob]

I wouldn't expect miracles since half the intakes out their are pulling in hot air. How hot is the outside temps?

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

I wouldn't expect miracles since half the intakes out their are pulling in hot air. How hot is the outside temps?

That's just it. It's been overcast and less than 70 degrees outside the last few days. Not remotely hot or humid.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Few things to keep in mind.

First, it doesn’t look like any of your logs had WOT runs long enough for our ECU to adapt and add timing advance while switching to e30 mix or map3. My understanding is that you need to run 100% pedal/throttle through a few gears at least. Don’t you have a highway on-ramp where you can safely do a WOT pull from 10-80 or so a couple times? That should be enough for the ECU to adapt to both e30 fuel & map3.

Second, a full barrier of heat shielding will help, but pretty sure your high IATs are from the hot radiator fluid being run through the throttle body while the air temps are in the 60s. I know multiple people that have the same high IAT issues while using both intakes with & without heat shielding, but it only happens during the winter and temps in 50s-60s. One of them did the DIY coolant bypass and now his IATs run in the 80-95 range in cool weather.

Also someone on here did some thorough testing of stock intake boxes vs aftermarket shielded intakes and the temperatures were similar. I believe it didn’t vary more than 10-15 degrees over the completely sealed OEM intakes. So it’s very unlikely that your DIY intakes are causing 80 degrees increases over ambient air temps and probably just from the hot radiator fluid running through the throttle body while in cool/cold weather.

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

Few things to keep in mind.

First, it doesn’t look like any of your logs had WOT runs long enough for our ECU to adapt and add timing advance while switching to e30 mix or map3. My understanding is that you need to run 100% pedal/throttle through a few gears at least. Don’t you have a highway on-ramp where you can safely do a WOT pull from 10-80 or so a couple times? That should be enough for the ECU to adapt to both e30 fuel & map3.

Second, a full barrier of heat shielding will help, but pretty sure your high IATs are from the hot radiator fluid being run through the throttle body while the air temps are in the 60s. I know multiple people that have the same high IAT issues while using both intakes with & without heat shielding, but it only happens during the winter and temps in 50s-60s. One of them did the DIY coolant bypass and now his IATs run in the 80-95 range in cool weather.
View attachment 35102 View attachment 35103
Also someone on here did some thorough testing of stock intake boxes vs aftermarket shielded intakes and the temperatures were similar. I believe it didn’t vary more than 10-15 degrees over the completely sealed OEM intakes. So it’s very unlikely that your DIY intakes are causing 80 degrees increases over ambient air temps and probably just from the hot radiator fluid running through the throttle body while in cool/cold weather.

Gonna try tonight. Just got more E85 blended in. Map 3 pulls weaker than Map 2 and seems to cut out throttle automatically at certain RPM's while adjusting. That's on launches red light to red light. I'll try freeway onramp pull in map 3. Would resetting adaptive help it adapt quicker?

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

It seems to have helped. I did a bunch of 30-80 pulls on an empty road with a 60 mph speed limit so in case I got popped i may be caught at 10 over vs doing it on a 40 mph street. Also did 2 pulls from 20-90 ish getting on freeway on ramp. The throttle cutting in and out seems gone. It's pulling hard enough to lose traction I back wheels on turns (It's AWD).

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

Seems pretty high to me unless it's 100f outside. Monitor IAT in the app and see if you can spot a trend.

Same basic problem on logs. You're not staying on it long enough to see anything at all. A good log is like 40-90mph, on a safe private track, of course.

View attachment 34993

What are the requirements of running higher maps? I want test if maybe map 4 or 5 runs better than map 3, which is inconsistent. Map 2 seems to pull the hardest most consistently between map 0, 1, 2 and 3. Map 3 still seems to misfire/or cut power randomly at higher RPM's/speeds. The power falls off a cliff at higher RPM's, not sure what's happening. It DID improve after a few 30-90 ish pulls, but it still sometimes does it. I'm running E30 right now full time basically (hope the fuel pump can do this long term). I have your JB4+fuel wires+plugs done... as well as the DIY intake+muffler delete. Is it safe to test higher maps? Not going for 8, but maybe 4 or 5? Or will the gains not be worth the running being less smooth potentially etc? I think on Map 5 dyno I saw 30-40 more torque than map 2.

 

[Cadimac705]

Little help. Jb4 app only showing boost on gauge and graph

 

[SkinnyKid]

Check your OBDII connection. Make sure it's plugged in correctly to the JB4. That's usually the most common problem.

 

[ChaneRZ]

Sit it properly.

 

[Cadimac705]

That's the cause. Thanks

 

[ChaneRZ]

Nice!