FAQ: Vibration under braking: warped rotors? NO!

I'm not sure why OEM wheels these days are so heavy. For every day driving the Stinger, I'm running the same 18x7.5 wheels that were on my '09 Genesis sedan. I was rather surprised they weight 23 lbs, compared to Stinger's 30 lbs OEM 18x8. You wouldn't think 14yr old rims would be an upgrade, but they weight less and ride better. Whatever sidewall rigidity I'm giving up by switching to 0.5" narrower rim, it is more than made up for in enhanced tire compliance. Along with the 7 lbs per corner less unsrpung weight, suspension control is more responsive and they give the Stinger a magic carpet ride feel that the stock 18x8 just couldn't match.

My only guess is that the disturbing trend of ever lower profile tires is forcing mfrs to overbuilt the OEM wheel, in an attempt to survive pothole strikes. Back in its day, these old Gennie wheels were shod with 50 series tires. Nowadays, 35 series are not at all uncommon. Lots of performance cars come with 30 series tires. Progress... I guess.
View attachment 77504
yours is the only stinger on 7.5 wide wheels that I've heard of. and how did your 2.0l wind up with gt brake vents? I thought that those only appeared on the 2020 gt line when the base and premium design features were discontinued.
 
yours is the only stinger on 7.5 wide wheels that I've heard of. and how did your 2.0l wind up with gt brake vents? I thought that those only appeared on the 2020 gt line when the base and premium design features were discontinued.
LOL... Mine is such a hodgepodge, it is probably the only one of its kind in North America.

Most of the stuff came from good ol' ebay: Brembos, LSD, side vents, GT steering wheel, etc. I've also got some more stuff ready to go on: OEM LED headlamp assemblies from a GT2, Hella 90mm bixenon projector modules to be inset into the front grill. It has been a really fun project car I can drive every day. Still, I try to keep it low key without any loud styling slap-ons.

The old Gennie wheels definitely made for an odd duck. I ran two sets of wheels/tires for my '09 Gennie, so when I finally donated the car, I kept the better set. Tried them on Stinger and was rather surprised they not only fit the wheel hub, they even cleared the Brembo - without spacers! Gotta love Hyundai/Kia/Genesis for interchangeability. 235/45R18 all season tires work extremely well on them for daily commuting and surprisingly agile to boot. I'm not into any street heroics and find street racing distasteful. A family we know here in town were struck by a out-of-control street racer and several members in their family car were killed. I don't need- or desire - outright performance for a street setup. That's what the track wheel/tire set is for. Between our G70/Stinger, we have four sets of wheels/tires and can switch between them at will. Each is optimized for a particular mission requirement.
 
Between our G70/Stinger, we have four sets of wheels/tires and can switch between them at will. Each is optimized for a particular mission requirement.
Hey baby, change the wheels - we're going to the store!
 
______________________________
You said you scrubbed the rotors yourself before you resurfaced the front? What technique did you use to scrub the rotors the first time?
 
Gotta love Hyundai/Kia/Genesis for interchangeability.
nice to have it confirmed that Hyundai group wheels are interchangeable. I've been saying that all stinger wheels are interchangeable but hadn't really thought it further than that.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
You said you scrubbed the rotors yourself before you resurfaced the front? What technique did you use to scrub the rotors the first time?
Stainless steel wire brush on pneumatic grinder. I suspect the new pads would probably scrub off all the deposits, but I didn't want to take the chance of some of the sticking to the new pads' friction material surfaces and causing them to glaze over.

TIP: if you ever get one of these pneumatic grinders, get one with rear exhaust. This one here worked well, but I had to wrap the from with a rag to keep the exhaust oil from spitting all over the work piece.
IMG20221002143234.webp
 
nice to have it confirmed that Hyundai group wheels are interchangeable. I've been saying that all stinger wheels are interchangeable but hadn't really thought it further than that.
A bit of a caveat I just learned yesterday on the G70 forum... Apparently some of the Genesis Coupe wheels have a slightly smaller bore size of 66.7mm, instead of the now almost corporate-wide universal 67.1mm wheel bore. A G70 owner bought a set of 19x8.5 Gennie Coupe wheels and reported that they were a bit tight going on the wheel hub, but they did fit okay.

I looked up on wheel-size.com and saw that my '09 Gennie sedan wheels were supposedly 66.7mm as well, but mine go on the Stinger/G70 wheel hug easily with absolutely no problem, so I know they are 67.1mm. Apparently, Hyundai did a running change of the wheel hub bore size around 2012 or so, as the facelifted DH 2012+ cars are listed as having 67.1mm. The set I kept from my old Gennie must have been from the later cars.

But yes, you're correct. All Stinger wheels are interchangeable, as with all G70 wheels. I have little doubt all the G80/G90 and probably the GV70/80 all fit. GV60 is on their EV platform, so that might be different. Heck, there is a local Stinger owner that put his Stinger 18's on his Veloster N, just for giggles. FWD cars tend have higher offset though, because FWD typically work better with negative scrub radius. But the BCD and hub bore are the same.

Also, the 18" OEM wheels clear Brembos no problem.
 
I didn't see EBC Bluestuff mentioned much here, so I thought I should give my two cents on it. Like just about every Stinger owner with the crappy Brembo OEM brake pads, mine had the infamous pad material deposit. Since I normally take it really easy in everyday driving, it didn't bother me much. The only thing I noticed was a rough gritty feel whenever I had to step on the brake a bit harder than usual. Otherwise, the Brembos did just fine. Even with quite a few AutoX's last year, I knew the brakes were not worked hard enough to cause heat spotting, but I did keep a very close eye on all four rotors. Below was about as bad as it got.
View attachment 77473
Not ideal, but far from unserviceable for normal everyday commuting. That said, compared to our '21 G70 6MT Sport with the Euro-Sport pad (below), which over the same period of time had absolutely no brake pad material transfer and worked brilliantly, I knew the Stinger OEM pads had to go sooner or later.

View attachment 77472

So, when I signed up for a Track Dat at Motorsport Ranch at Cresson last year, I did my due diligence to look for a worthy replacement pad. Having had excellent experience with EBC sintered HH pads on many of my motorcycles over the years, I was a bit partial to the brand. So I chose their Bluestuff "super-sport and Track Day" pad.

Being the cheapskate that I am, and the rotors still in excellent shape with no grooving or measurable tapering, I just scrubbed off the pad material deposit and slapped on the Bluestuff.
View attachment 77474
As I was just finishing up the initial "breaking in" or seating the pad to the rotor, and starting in on stage 1 bedding in, the rear was nice and smooth, but the front started to vibrate a bit. Yeah, sometimes the Scrooge does get caught for being cheap. No biggie, I took off the front rotors and had them turned at O'Reily's for $25 a rotor. Back on they went.
View attachment 77475
O'Reily's did an excellent job and only shaved less than 0.2mm off each surface. I'm still far from the minimum rotor thickness (F 28.0mm R 20.4mm).
View attachment 77476
As expected, the front brakes complained no more, and I repeated the seating process for another 100 miles or so of really easy driving/braking. Then did my stage 1 bedding in, per EBC instructions. I decided to wait for the actual track session to do Stage 2 bedding in, because trying to do it on public road was just not practical, or safe. All there was left to prep was bleed/flush with high-temp DOT4 fluid.

So Track Day came, and I took it easy for the first session, mainly to memorized all 16 turns of the long 3.1mile course, which at my age took a while. Just as well, it gave the pad and rotor time to really know each other, consummately their marriage, and bed in (pun intended) properly.
View attachment 77477
For the other three 20-min sessions, Bluestuff performed brilliantly - zero fade, linear pedal feel, and ample braking power that's easy to modulate.

No, I don't have enough power to chase down the big guns, but not having to worry about the brakes was a big plus. The instructor that sat with me asked what mod I did and was very glad to hear what I did for brake prep.
View attachment 77478

This is what it looked like at the end of the day. The brakes got plenty toasty, enough to disintegrate the plastic hub-centric rings that TireRack included with the Enkei TFRs. Lesson learned there. All 4 rotors had that nice even color sheen that's indicative of the proper kind of micro-layer pad material transfer track-prepped brakes should look like - for optimum brake performance and rotor life.
View attachment 77480

Now... the downside. Yes, there are always compromises with everything related to engineering. Like just about all performance-oriented brake pads, the Bluestuff produces prodigious amount of brake dust. The Euro-Sport pads on our G70 6MT are the same. That is just the nature of the beast. This is going to put off a lot of street drivers, but to me, it is a worthy price to pay for excellent track performance. This is why I buy easy-to-clean wheels. And it's why I went with the Enkei TFR.

Also, performance pads are usually on the noisy side. Some like to hiss. Others love to creak. Bluestuff tend to groan, when they are just making/breaking contact with the rotor. Not surprising, since their friction coefficient remains very very high, even when stone cold. I have to be really careful to feather the brake pedal pressure to minimize the noise, especially in crawling stop-n-go rush hour traffic. Doesn't bother me that much. I just look at it like the Bluestuff pads are complaining why I made they put up with this s***, when we should be out at the track tearing up the corners.

Thirdly, the wear rate is higher than with street pads. Again, that is just the nature of the beast. 6 months in including the track day, the pads are visibly worn. I have not taken off the pads and mic'ed them, but I would have no problem doing another track day right now. Doing a 3rd TD... that would be very iffy. Once pads are worn to the last 1/3, their wear rate accelerates. Like tires, brake pads are consumables. Their performance vs. life expectancy is also similar to tires. Thankfully, pads are nowhere near as expensive as tires.

Would I recommend them? If track days are in your plans - absolutely. If not, they still make excellent street performance pads, as long as you are okay with the compromise. Otherwise, something a bit less hard-edged, like their Yellowstuff, or even Redstuff, might be better suited.

That's it. I'll leave you with the thought that regardless of what you might think of the Stinger, it is first and foremost a really great GT car. A pure-bred sport car it is most definitely not. As long as you keep your expectations in check, much fun you'll have.

Otherwise, it's why folks bring track tools like this (taken at the same track day):
View attachment 77479
It's always great to hear your feedback, thank you for sharing to the forum :)
 
I’m surprised we still don’t have an aftermarket pad available yet. Hopefully they’re in development as I’ll be switching as soon as they are.

I’ve run Hawk and Akebono ceramic pads on my Audi’s and they were very good. Low dust and a decent bite.
I just bought rear Akebono pads at a local Parts Authority. $46 before tax. We'll see how they work. Power Stop Z17 were also the same price, but I've heard better about the Akebono. Brembo vented rotors cost $112 for the pair. MUCH BETTER than the dealer or local brake shop mechanic price. It'll cost me my time, but hey ... I can do that!!!
 
I just bought rear Akebono pads at a local Parts Authority. $46 before tax. We'll see how they work. Power Stop Z17 were also the same price, but I've heard better about the Akebono. Brembo vented rotors cost $112 for the pair. MUCH BETTER than the dealer or local brake shop mechanic price. It'll cost me my time, but hey ... I can do that!!!

Scotty Kilmer recommends! :)
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
has anyone had experience with the DBA SP Pads front and rear? Its time for me to replace my pads and thinking of going with those. Thanks!
 
Is there a general consensus on pads for a moderately modified stinger that is mostly street driven, and occasionally romped on?
 
Is there a general consensus on pads for a moderately modified stinger that is mostly street driven, and occasionally romped on?
lol, look at the length of this thread. research, and then go with the setup that seems best for you.
 
lol, look at the length of this thread. research, and then go with the setup that seems best for you.

Yeah, lol, exactly. 55 pages of posts going back to 2018. This is the research.
 
Yeah, lol, exactly. 55 pages of posts going back to 2018. This is the research.
I reached out to the K8 stinger store that advertises on here in January and they helped me get some new pads that have worked a lot better than the stock pads I had
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yeah, lol, exactly. 55 pages of posts going back to 2018. This is the research.
agree. this thread is the most concentrated source of all-things brake pads and rotors, probably on the whole net. yes, I have read every word, most of them more than once.
 
______________________________
I've been happy with the Powerstop Z26s for over a year now. silent, more bite than stock.
 
As a breakdown of our pad range, below are some key points;

Ultimax - OEM replacement, low dust, eco-friendly non metallic pad. Easy on rotors.

Greenstuff - entry level upgrade from OEM, not track capable. Medium/Low dust. Eco-friendly material

Redstuff – Organic blend, lowest dust & kind on rotors, better friction than Green. For higher HP &/or heavier cars. Ceramic particle enhanced, NOT ceramic fibres. Long lasting, not track capable

Yellowstuff - Street performance, great friction for spirited driving, works good from cold, works best when hot. Takes longer to bed. Not low dust

Bluestuff - Hybrid Street & track pad. High friction street pad capable of track days. Works great from cold. Quicker bedding. Not low dust. 0.52mu coefficient & 0.42mu coefficient available for some rear applications (lighter cars)


RP1/X series – all-out track pad, high performance, RPX high 0.55mu torque for under servo'd cars RP1 medium 0.45mu torque for over servo'd cars. Not for street use.

Is there a general consensus on pads for a moderately modified stinger that is mostly street driven, and occasionally romped on?
for mostly street use with occasional fast driving and heavy braking, Yellowstuff or Redstuff would be my recommendation. All Kia Stinger products can be found at this link for purchase in USA
 
As a breakdown of our pad range, below are some key points;

Ultimax - OEM replacement, low dust, eco-friendly non metallic pad. Easy on rotors.

Greenstuff - entry level upgrade from OEM, not track capable. Medium/Low dust. Eco-friendly material

Redstuff – Organic blend, lowest dust & kind on rotors, better friction than Green. For higher HP &/or heavier cars. Ceramic particle enhanced, NOT ceramic fibres. Long lasting, not track capable

Yellowstuff - Street performance, great friction for spirited driving, works good from cold, works best when hot. Takes longer to bed. Not low dust

Bluestuff - Hybrid Street & track pad. High friction street pad capable of track days. Works great from cold. Quicker bedding. Not low dust. 0.52mu coefficient & 0.42mu coefficient available for some rear applications (lighter cars)


RP1/X series – all-out track pad, high performance, RPX high 0.55mu torque for under servo'd cars RP1 medium 0.45mu torque for over servo'd cars. Not for street use.


for mostly street use with occasional fast driving and heavy braking, Yellowstuff or Redstuff would be my recommendation. All Kia Stinger products can be found at this link for purchase in USA
This was very helpful - thank you.

I do not drive the Stinger in such a way as to keep the pads hot for Yellowstuff to be optimal - Yellowstuff sounds more like a track pad which I'm very familiar with tracking my sport P-cars.

So it looks like Redstuff is the pad for my Gran Tourismo Stinger.
 
Last edited:
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Back
Top