FAQ: Vibration under braking: warped rotors? NO!

[D.J.]

The StopTech rotors from K8 seem to be perpetually out of stock, with no guidance as to when they might be available again.

Has anyone had any good experiences with other non-OEM rotors? I definitely don't want to put OEM rotors on the car only to have this happen again, and would like something higher quality and longger-lasting.

Thanks!

I believe the issue is more related to the OEM pads.,

I have new OEM rotors replaced under warranty at 60k kms...

Now at 95k kms - with no issues (switched to aftermarket pads at 60k kms as well)

My aftermarket pads are NOT performance pads.. just cheap replacements that work well for me with no pulsations.

Details of my current pads are here

Stinger Brake Pads Replacement

I've just approached 46K km and the front pads are due for a replacement soon... The dealer quoted me a price for the front pads at $900 (offered a discount from $1,300). I haven't had any issues with the OEM Brembo pads but based on other threads, I'm looking to replace them with aftermarket...

stingerforum.org

 

[legbuh]

The StopTech rotors from K8 seem to be perpetually out of stock, with no guidance as to when they might be available again.

Has anyone had any good experiences with other non-OEM rotors? I definitely don't want to put OEM rotors on the car only to have this happen again, and would like something higher quality and longger-lasting.

Thanks!

I got a kit from cquence. So far so good.

 

[Rodtheviking]

Centric Premium 120.50042
Centric High Carbon 125.50041
DBA T3 4000

KNS Brakes

KNS Brakes DBA Rotors Hawk Brake Pads

www.knsbrakes.com

 

[D.J.]

Centric Premium 120.50042
Centric High Carbon 125.50041
DBA T3 4000

KNS Brakes

KNS Brakes DBA Rotors Hawk Brake Pads

www.knsbrakes.com

Are these part numbers for REAR disks?

125.50041 when googled seems to return details of a rear disk

 

[Rodtheviking]

Are these part numbers for REAR disks?

125.50041 when googled seems to return details of a rear disk

Can only get the high carbon for the rear at the moment, out of stock everywhere.

I got the premium for the front and kept the rear stock at the moment, until they come available again.

 

[StingertimeNC]

DBA T3 4000 rotors with Hawk HPS 5.0 pads front and rear. They work well and look great, not overly dusty, etc. Only downside I've noticed is when coming to a stop, under real light brake pressure, they give a little chirp sound, usually when the brakes are not hot. This is not a rotor thing, it's specific to those pads as I had them on the stock rotors as well. But I like the performance. Purchased everything from KNS Brakes.

 

[AnalogMan]

I believe the issue is more related to the OEM pads.,

I have new OEM rotors replaced under warranty at 60k kms...

Now at 95k kms - with no issues (switched to aftermarket pads at 60k kms as well)

My aftermarket pads are NOT performance pads.. just cheap replacements that work well for me with no pulsations.

Details of my current pads are here

Stinger Brake Pads Replacement

I've just approached 46K km and the front pads are due for a replacement soon... The dealer quoted me a price for the front pads at $900 (offered a discount from $1,300). I haven't had any issues with the OEM Brembo pads but based on other threads, I'm looking to replace them with aftermarket...

stingerforum.org

My rotors were significantly out of round by 9,000 mi, and had to be cut down 1.6 mm! I expect that has shortened their life, so to avoid having to do all this again in another 9,000 mi (or sooner), I just want to replace the rotors and pads with something higher quality.

 

[AnalogMan]

DBA T3 4000 rotors with Hawk HPS 5.0 pads front and rear. They work well and look great, not overly dusty, etc. Only downside I've noticed is when coming to a stop, under real light brake pressure, they give a little chirp sound, usually when the brakes are not hot. This is not a rotor thing, it's specific to those pads as I had them on the stock rotors as well. But I like the performance. Purchased everything from KNS Brakes.

Thank you! Unfortunately, KNS doesn't seem to carry Stinger parts anymore, it's not listed as an option on their website.

The search continues, but I think I'll have to end up waiting for StopTech to become available again. Hopefully that will be before the pulsation/shuddering returns again.

 

[StingertimeNC]

Craziness. I just got my stuff like a month ago!!

Edit, just checked KNSbrakes.com and they do have all the stinger stuff. Try a different MY like 2019 if stuff doesn’t come up for your year.

 

[Rodtheviking]

You could get Frozenrotors.com ones, they are nice too. I think they make the rotors for the Girodisc 2 piece, so they are good quality.
I think they source all their rotors from Centric on top of it.

I got my rotors from Adamsrotors.com They use the Centric premium rotors and have a big selection of patterns they CNC into the rotor.

Front Left Frozen Rotors Slotted 3021 FZR SL

Frozen Rotors has been slotting brake rotors for our customers for the last ten years. We have never advertised this optional upgrade on our website but we are now proud to say this performance enhancement will be availible on most of our long lasting Frozen Rotor® brand of brake rotors.

frozenrotors.com

 

[str8bizns]

I just fixed my warping issue thanks to this thread.
Can I immediately replace the pads after it cools down?

 

[D.J.]

I just fixed my warping issue thanks to this thread.
Can I immediately replace the pads after it cools down?

If it's fixed, why change anything?

 

[MerlintheMad]

I just fixed my warping issue thanks to this thread.
Can I immediately replace the pads after it cools down?

I assume that you mean you returned from rebedding the current pads, to see if the rotors would accept the rebedding process and work smoothly. If that is the case, surely, put in the new pads at once after rebedding. Then of course go out and bed in the new pads. That is the recommendation/wisdom taken from this thread. But I have to say, when I got my first (and so far only) brand new car, I read the manual's recommendation to let the engine break in for 600 miles, and to go easy on the brakes. I didn't even know what bedding in brakes was until I had been reading on the forum for months. My brakes are still OEM, and at c. 57K miles have never given me a lick of trouble, always braking very smoothly: so, depending on things (mainly, I'd have to say the variable of how a driver operates the brakes), bedding in brake pads is not absolutely necessary. When I finally replace these pads (still showing c. 8mm), I fully intend to bed in the new pads a la what I've learned from this thread and others' experiences.

 

[Rodtheviking]

I just fixed my warping issue thanks to this thread.
Can I immediately replace the pads after it cools down?

Yes

 

[HDTurbo]

Still, not warping! Pad deposits! Jebus!

 

[str8bizns]

If it's fixed, why change anything?

because the pads suck!!!!
and I got new ceramic pads.

 

[smrideatiger76]

After reading all of this, looks to me like the best and quickest solution is to just change out the oem pads with better quality ones and bed them in properly.
Just a newbie asking. I've had the wobble ever since I took my baby on the tail of the dragon lol

 

[MerlintheMad]

I've had the wobble ever since I took my baby on the tail of the dragon lol

"Wobble", isn't a word used before to describe brake vibration/shudder/judder. But if you mean the same thing by it we can add it to the descriptive lexicon. Welcome to the forum (finally).

You must have really pushed your brakes a lot more than I do, because The Dragon didn't do anything to mine.

 

[baws22489]

Mine seems to act funny if I have to brake hard going over 50-55MPH. It feels like it wont stop so I release and push a few times until the speed reduces enough that I can push harder. But if I'm going under 50MPH I don't seem to feel anything, is that normal or what others are talking about? To me if there were deposits on the rotors it should happen at all times and not just when going fast so I wondered if that means they are warped? I had talked to the service department in the past and got the standard we don't replace pads/rotors as that's the consumers responsibility.

 

[stoopid]

Mine seems to act funny if I have to brake hard going over 50-55MPH. It feels like it wont stop so I release and push a few times until the speed reduces enough that I can push harder. But if I'm going under 50MPH I don't seem to feel anything, is that normal or what others are talking about? To me if there were deposits on the rotors it should happen at all times and not just when going fast so I wondered if that means they are warped? I had talked to the service department in the past and got the standard we don't replace pads/rotors as that's the consumers responsibility.

I think if the car's past 1 year or 12,000 miles wearable items like brake pads and rotors aren't covered under warranty, but they would still happily take your money to replace them.

It doesn't sound like you're experiencing the same issue. What you describe sounds more like brake fading, and if it's happening as soon as you're starting to apply the brakes then it's maybe an issue with the pressure in the brake system/lines. I'd definitely have someone look at it, and maybe even the dealer again under warranty since it very well could be an issue with the lines or pump. If you're not experiencing vibrations braking then the issue you're having is not likely pads or rotors, in which case it would be a warranty item if your car is still under warranty.