FAQ: Vibration under braking: warped rotors? NO!

Yeah, problem is, it's a band-aid fix. The next time you drive aggressively enough to heat up the pads enough that they start to melt, you're going to have the exact same problem. And additionally, you don't need to get the rotors replaced; you can just to a re-bed. Which is good, because next time it happens, chances are that you're going to be outside the 1 year/12,000 miles wear-item warranty and Kia will make you pay if you want them replaced again.

This is all mentioned in the FAQ, of course. Did you read it?

Why would I re-bed them if I can get them replaced? Logically that would make ZERO sense. You say the rotors were not warped but didnt realized you seen my rotors. You could have said Hi at least :).

Rotors were warped plain and simple They had 2 high spots on them. Warranty Extended by Kia for an additional 12K miles / 1 year.... But your right I should have just fixed them myself ;)
 
Rotors were warped plain and simple They had 2 high spots on them. Warranty Extended by Kia for an additional 12K miles / 1 year.... But your right I should have just fixed them myself ;)

Those high spots were almost certainly pad deposits. Just because the dealer measured runout ("high spots") on the rotors, doesn't mean the runout wasn't caused by something other than warpage.

Once that 2 years/24k comes and goes and you have the problem again... just remember what I said. It's going to be cheaper to do a re-bed at that point, and more permanent to get better pads.
 
Those high spots were almost certainly pad deposits. Just because the dealer measured runout ("high spots") on the rotors, doesn't mean the runout wasn't caused by something other than warpage.

Once that 2 years/24k comes and goes and you have the problem again... just remember what I said. It's going to be cheaper to do a re-bed at that point, and more permanent to get better pads.

Oh forsure. I thought you were saying I should have rebed them instead of getting a free replacement and extended warranty on them. Yes if I go a full 12k or 1 year without issues and they occur afterwards I will definitely replace with aftermarket pads.
 
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Yeah, problem is, it's a band-aid fix. The next time you drive aggressively enough to heat up the pads enough that they start to melt, you're going to have the exact same problem. And additionally, you don't need to get the rotors replaced; you can just to a re-bed. Which is good, because next time it happens, chances are that you're going to be outside the 1 year/12,000 miles wear-item warranty and Kia will make you pay if you want them replaced again.

This is all mentioned in the FAQ, of course. Did you read it?
In most cases, this is true. For those who have been driving with pad deposits for an extended period of time, the cementite formation may be too far developed for a rebedding to solve it. It is hard to put a time on how long this would take because of the differences in driving style from driver to driver. The stock US Stinger pads are not very aggressive and seem to be low temp pads, so continued bedding attempts will not fix the problem and only really expedite the wear of the pads. In a high temp pad, the bedding process heat cures the resins that bind the pad material together. It doesn't appear that this happens in the stock Stinger pads.
 
Has anyone in US or Canada checked what pads are used in the Genesis G70? Maybe a more aggressive pad than the Stinger and closer to euro spec?
 
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The process you described is how brakes should be broken in/bedded, but only braking from 40-50mph (not 60-80). I can see the Stinger requiring speeds of 60mph or higher if the pad deposits are bad and all over the rotor. I have been doing this same process any time I get new brakes or a new car since 1999 when I got my Integra GSR. This was communicated to me by one of the Integra Type-R engineers and another Type-R race car driver that used to race for Honda back then. It has worked wonderfully ever since and I almost never get warped rotors or pad deposits. I also try to use aftermarket pads as much as I can, and love Hawk brake pads, especially their HP+ line.

We all need to email Hawk and other brake manufacturers to let them know about the Stinger pad issue and ask them to develop performance pads for the Stinger. It's the only way to get them to come out with new pads within a year, instead of 2-3 years from now.
 
We all need to email Hawk and other brake manufacturers to let them know about the Stinger pad issue and ask them to develop performance pads for the Stinger. It's the only way to get them to come out with new pads within a year, instead of 2-3 years from now.

HAWK HPS Brake Pads - Front Kia Stinger - OEM Brembo

Stoptech Performance Street Ceramic Brake Pads - Front Kia Stinger - OEM Brembo

GiroDisc Magic Brake Pads - Front Kia Stinger - OEM Brembo

Centric Posiquiet Ceramic Brake Pads - Front Kia Stinger - OEM Brembo
 
Has anyone in US or Canada checked what pads are used in the Genesis G70? Maybe a more aggressive pad than the Stinger and closer to euro spec?

They use the exact same setup as Stinger GTs. The G70 owners are on Sals G70 forum trying to nail down replacement pads as we speak.
 
HAWK HPS Brake Pads - Front Kia Stinger - OEM Brembo

I am not a big fan of the Hawk HPS (street) line. I have tried their HPS pads 3 times over the last 10 years and was never impressed with them. They barely work as good as OEM pads. I just put them in my wife's Accord again this past Spring because they were fairly inexpensive, and she doesn't really need performance pads, and they just average at best. The OEM pads were slightly better. Anyway I wish Hawk comes out with the HP+. HP+ is a true Performance Street pad, and great for 1 or auto-x seasons, plus some weekend fun at the track (not for competitive road racing though), and way better than HPS, with a very good initial bite, and they last much longer too with spirited driving compared to HPS. HP+ feels like you 've upgraded to bigger rotors and calipers.

Harry
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I will challenge a few things in this quote authoritative assessment or in plain English fake news.

No 1. It’s not absolutely clear to me that the rotors are a brembo product. I have written Brembo and they indicate no part number available for Stinger. Doesn’t mean these aren’t brembo rotors but this seems suspect. My Kia service guy has indicated these rotors look suspiciously similar to other OEM Kia rotors. He doesn’t think they are a brembo product. Did they have a local rotor maker do rotors? I’d like to see proof these are in fact Brembo rotors made in a brembo factory. Do we know who makes pads?

No2. I’d indicate issue isn’t driver behavior but a poor choice of pad and rotor by manufacturer. I m very light braker and drive mostly highway miles. Issue emerged very early. I drive same 80 mile commute everyday and have for 30 years. Probably 20 different cars on same route. Not one other than stinger has had rotor issues .

No3. It’s not isolated issue. Kia service guy indicated they have seen several GTs in with same issue.

Overall seems like a really poor engineering issue at Kia where they didn’t test pad and rotor combo . However I still think there is something Wong beyond rotor and pad. No signs of heat or glazing on my rotors or pads.
 
I just removed my pads to replace them. They are branded Brembo. I don't see any part numbers or branding on the rotors. Could be on the inside and I don't really feel like getting on the ground, so...

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Okay, I checked the front and back of the rotors (the heatshield has a hole that allowed me to see the back). I saw no part numbers or branding. Since Brembo never misses an opportunity to put their branding on a part I suspect they are made by Hyundai.
 
@Kamauxx , are these pics from today im assuming? Let us know ASAP your thoughts on the brake pads and rotors... as we suspected, i got a little shaking again last night stopping from around 80 to 60 -_-
 
I agree with the summary here, and had rebedded only for it to come back, so yes band aid at best.. Ive done it 3 times and finally got fed up and I've bought the GiroDisc Rotors and pads. Overkill, but two piece rotors are sexy, light weight, and give me an option to upsize discs later if I get ambitious and make a bracket for 6 pot CTS-V brembo calipers that can be had for under 300 a peice.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
@Kamauxx , are these pics from today im assuming? Let us know ASAP your thoughts on the brake pads and rotors... as we suspected, i got a little shaking again last night stopping from around 80 to 60 -_-

Yep, I just pulled them off. The new pads were supposed to be delivered yesterday but #fuckuFedEx. They are now supposedly on the truck for delivery. I probably won't be bedding them in for a while since it's supposed to storm over the next few days.

I'm still using stock rotors since they were just "repaired" by Kia, btw.
 
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I am not a big fan of the Hawk HPS (street) line. I have tried their HPS pads 3 times over the last 10 years and was never impressed with them. They barely work as good as OEM pads. I just put them in my wife's Accord again this past Spring because they were fairly inexpensive, and she doesn't really need performance pads, and they just average at best. The OEM pads were slightly better. Anyway I wish Hawk comes out with the HP+. HP+ is a true Performance Street pad, and great for 1 or auto-x seasons, plus some weekend fun at the track (not for competitive road racing though), and way better than HPS, with a very good initial bite, and they last much longer too with spirited driving compared to HPS. HP+ feels like you 've upgraded to bigger rotors and calipers.

100% agree with all of this. I have used both HPS and HP+. The HPS were disappointing. The HP+ were very noisy and dusty, but had great performance. If I needed to go to HP+ again, I would, but I am hoping the Euro spec pads are good. BTW, I called the Premium Support line, and the rep said the Euro pads are not yet available here.
 
I will challenge a few things in this quote authoritative assessment or in plain English fake news.

No 1. It’s not absolutely clear to me that the rotors are a brembo product. I have written Brembo and they indicate no part number available for Stinger. Doesn’t mean these aren’t brembo rotors but this seems suspect. My Kia service guy has indicated these rotors look suspiciously similar to other OEM Kia rotors. He doesn’t think they are a brembo product. Did they have a local rotor maker do rotors? I’d like to see proof these are in fact Brembo rotors made in a brembo factory. Do we know who makes pads?

No2. I’d indicate issue isn’t driver behavior but a poor choice of pad and rotor by manufacturer. I m very light braker and drive mostly highway miles. Issue emerged very early. I drive same 80 mile commute everyday and have for 30 years. Probably 20 different cars on same route. Not one other than stinger has had rotor issues .

No3. It’s not isolated issue. Kia service guy indicated they have seen several GTs in with same issue.

Overall seems like a really poor engineering issue at Kia where they didn’t test pad and rotor combo . However I still think there is something Wong beyond rotor and pad. No signs of heat or glazing on my rotors or pads.

Sounds like you don't actually think the FAQ is fake news, but rather that you have problems with specific parts of it, so I will try to respond to those parts.

First, whether or not the rotors are Brembo branded, all rotors are made of very thick steel that is annealed at temperatures that are several times what the rotors will ever see on the car, even in track use. They're not going to warp. The Stinger rotors are particularly excellent at heat dissipation due to their large size and venting, but even smaller rotors on less sporty cars do not warp. I would encourage you to read the linked article in the FAQ.

Second, no, you don't have to drive aggressively for this to happen. The Stinger GT is a heavy car. It's over 3800 lbs in RWD trim, and over two tons in AWD trim. Enough braking power is needed to slow that amount of mass down that you can overheat the pads on a hilly road or when stopping suddenly in rush hour traffic. At that point, dragging the pads will cause the problem.

Third, you're right, it's not an isolated issue. It's a design flaw due to the chosen pad compound the car comes with from the factory. Some people may never experience it. Others may experience it occasionally. Still others will experience it frequently. The fact remains that there is a misconception that the problem is occurring due to warped rotors. THAT, as you say, is fake news.
 
Yep, I wasn't making it up :) I went to the track and auto-x'd for many years using HP+, and they were great on the street too. A light tap on the pedal and you better be strapped in or your head will hit the steering wheel :) I liked the HP+ so much on my dedicated "race" car, I put them on 1 of my daily drivers - a 2001 Civic EX coupe back then that was my main commuter car, after the factory pads got worn out at about 40k miles. Well this might sound outlandish, but the HP+ lasted almost 90k miles of regular street use on cheap Brembo blanks (rotors)! No BS!
 
100% agree with all of this. I have used both HPS and HP+. The HPS were disappointing. The HP+ were very noisy and dusty, but had great performance. If I needed to go to HP+ again, I would, but I am hoping the Euro spec pads are good. BTW, I called the Premium Support line, and the rep said the Euro pads are not yet available here.

I had the Hawk Euro ceramics in my Audi A5 and they were good. No noise or dust and performed as good as the OEM pads.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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