This is how I understood it to be with a full ecu tune as well. I know I read Slip_angle mention that only piggybacks usually needed the gap set to .022 in the main Lozic thread on here, although I don’t know the specifics as to why.
A lower gap is needed with a piggyback because they alter the load calculation when they decrease the voltage that the MAP sees. Consider the simple formula:
New MAP Signal = Original MAP Signal + (Additional Signal from Piggyback ECU)
Because the MAP sensor is how Absolute Manifold Pressure is calculated, we now have a new engine load which is lower. The ECU calculates an intended spark energy based on the Engine Load, but because Engine Load is now lower, we have reduced spark energy and need a lower gap. Now you can consider the following formula:
Energy (Joules) = Engine Load × Coilpack Dwell Time × Coilpack Voltage^2 / Coilpack Resistance
A lower gap is needed with a piggyback because they alter the load calculation when they decrease the voltage that the MAP sees. Consider the simple formula:
When the alteration of the MAP signal occurs, the engine load calculation is now affected. The calculation can be written as:
Because the MAP sensor is how Absolute Manifold Pressure is calculated, we now have a new engine load which is lower. The ECU calculates an intended spark energy based on the Engine Load, but because Engine Load is now lower, we have reduced spark energy and need a lower gap. Now you can consider the following formula:
Combining the three we have:
With ECU tuning the load is the opposite because we are not obfuscating or altering signals, so the spark energy will increase as necessary.
A lower gap is needed with a piggyback because they alter the load calculation when they decrease the voltage that the MAP sees. Consider the simple formula:
When the alteration of the MAP signal occurs, the engine load calculation is now affected. The calculation can be written as:
Because the MAP sensor is how Absolute Manifold Pressure is calculated, we now have a new engine load which is lower. The ECU calculates an intended spark energy based on the Engine Load, but because Engine Load is now lower, we have reduced spark energy and need a lower gap. Now you can consider the following formula:
Combining the three we have:
With ECU tuning the load is the opposite because we are not obfuscating or altering signals, so the spark energy will increase as necessary.
Great information. Does this apply to a Back End Flash as well? In other words, with a full tune, sounds like we shouldn't need reduced gap, but is this the same with a BEF? Can it also apply the correct spark energy for the actual load?
Great information. Does this apply to a Back End Flash as well? In other words, with a full tune, sounds like we shouldn't need reduced gap, but is this the same with a BEF? Can it also apply the correct spark energy for the actual load?
Is anyone running an off the shelf tune on Canadian 94? Our gas seems to be a bit shitty, I can see up to 3 degrees timing pulled on JB4 Map 2.
Mods otherwise are just an AEM intake and borla exhaust.
Also are idle stop and go disabled and persistent modes (I like to drive in smart, I hate having to switch over to it every time I start the car) also options?
I also get a fairly decent burble out of my car as is, especially with my default wastegate position at 75%, but I wouldn’t mind a bit more.
Is anyone running an off the shelf tune on Canadian 94? Our gas seems to be a bit shitty, I can see up to 3 degrees timing pulled on JB4 Map 2.
Mods otherwise are just an AEM intake and borla exhaust.
Also are idle stop and go disabled and persistent modes (I like to drive in smart, I hate having to switch over to it every time I start the car) also options?
I also get a fairly decent burble out of my car as is, especially with my default wastegate position at 75%, but I wouldn’t mind a bit more.
Once you get the ECU patched and you have your calibration ID updated in your profile on sxthnktuning.com, you will see what tunes are available on the website.
I think ISG is disabled on most if not all their tunes.
I don’t think drive modes are changed though.
Once you get the ECU patched and you have your calibration ID, you will see what tunes are available on the website.
I think ISG (Idle Stop and Go) is disabled on most if not all their tunes.
I don’t think drive modes are changed though.
Im honestly not sure if starting in a specific mode is an ECU controlled thing or not, as there have been several ways of setting the car to automatically set the car to sport mode on start, and all of them have been physical hardware modifications. I also have this vague memory of asking lozic about it (He has factory files directly from kia, instead of creating his own base files) and I could swear I remember him saying the drive mode selection was not set in the ECU itself.
Are you guys still using the brake snip with the Sxth tcu tune or will/does it work well enough without it? I might be a little early asking this question as it seems you guys are having issues with the launch control in the tcu tune.
Are you guys still using the brake snip with the Sxth tcu tune or will/does it work well enough without it? I might be a little early asking this question as it seems you guys are having issues with the launch control in the tcu tune.
Are you guys still using the brake snip with the Sxth tcu tune or will/does it work well enough without it? I might be a little early asking this question as it seems you guys are having issues with the launch control in the tcu tune.
Im working with Nathan on getting the Launch control settings dialed in. tried some new settings for him last night but now I seem to be getting blocked by a torque limit that is too low. For now the brake snip can be used totally fine if you have it, but Im hoping that by the time we get the ECU launch dialed in, it will be very consistent.