2.0T Eibach Pro Springs Need Help Asap

Got it fixed, dude who installed them messed up the front. That's what you get when you pay someone $350 to install springs. He sent me $200 back, but had to buy new tires running me around $575 :(
Messed up what?

Pics?
 
Yeal messed up what ^^^^^^???
This forum is for education please post
 
Got it fixed, dude who installed them messed up the front. That's what you get when you pay someone $350 to install springs. He sent me $200 back, but had to buy new tires running me around $575 :(
At least the guy owned up to his mistakes.

I would still be leery of what other things he might have messed up. So far on this Stinger/G70 platform, I've done two sets of Eibach springs and a set of coilovers, and I can see several areas a less-than-competent installer might not know how to do correctly. Most notably is the need to keep loose any and all bushing bolts that had been loosened/removed during the install process, until everything has been correctly re-installed and the suspension preloaded to new ride height. Then and only then, should those bushing bolts be tightened and torqued to spec. Failure to do so will result in the rubber bushing being clocked wrong and strained at normal ride height, which will eventually cause the bushings to fail prematurely.

18’ stock potenza tires. These springs drop it 1.4in in the front and 1.2in in the back.
I'm guessing yours is AWD. Eibach springs lowered our '19 2.0T RWD around 0.8" F & R.
 
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Most notably is the need to keep loose any and all bushing bolts that had been loosened/removed during the install process, until everything has been correctly re-installed and the suspension preloaded to new ride height. Then and only then, should those bushing bolts be tightened and torqued to spec. Failure to do so will result in the rubber bushing being clocked wrong and strained at normal ride height, which will eventually cause the bushings to fail prematurely.
That is not Stinger/G70 specific.
 
At least the guy owned up to his mistakes.

I would still be leery of what other things he might have messed up. So far on this Stinger/G70 platform, I've done two sets of Eibach springs and a set of coilovers, and I can see several areas a less-than-competent installer might not know how to do correctly. Most notably is the need to keep loose any and all bushing bolts that had been loosened/removed during the install process, until everything has been correctly re-installed and the suspension preloaded to new ride height. Then and only then, should those bushing bolts be tightened and torqued to spec. Failure to do so will result in the rubber bushing being clocked wrong and strained at normal ride height, which will eventually cause the bushings to fail prematurely.


I'm guessing yours is AWD. Eibach springs lowered our '19 2.0T RWD around 0.8" F & R.
Yup AWD. Gotta buy rims next. Ignore the scraps by my back tire getting that fixed soon lolIMG_9949.webp
 

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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
At least the guy owned up to his mistakes.

I would still be leery of what other things he might have messed up. So far on this Stinger/G70 platform, I've done two sets of Eibach springs and a set of coilovers, and I can see several areas a less-than-competent installer might not know how to do correctly. Most notably is the need to keep loose any and all bushing bolts that had been loosened/removed during the install process, until everything has been correctly re-installed and the suspension preloaded to new ride height. Then and only then, should those bushing bolts be tightened and torqued to spec. Failure to do so will result in the rubber bushing being clocked wrong and strained at normal ride height, which will eventually cause the bushings to fail prematurely.


I'm guessing yours is AWD. Eibach springs lowered our '19 2.0T RWD around 0.8" F & R.
I did my own springs (RWD) and I didn't have to touch any bushing bolts.

For the front, jack up one side, compress suspension with jack, remove tie rod bolt, sway bar link, brake line retaining screw, and the large nut on the top of the strut. release pressure on jack, push down on suspension enough to pull out old spring, line up new one, put back in, use jack to compress strut/spring assembly back in place, tighen top nut, reattach tie rod, brake line screw, and sway bar link. repeat on the other side. Not sure if this would have been possible with AWD as the driveshaft might not have allowed enough suspension travel to get the spring out.

The rears are even easier, just the swaybar link and the bottom shock bolt, again preloading with the jack to make things smooth and effortless. Even with the driveshafts back there, plenty of wiggle room to get the old spring out and the new one in.

After i finished and took it for an an alignment, the alignment guy asked me why I even bothered coming in because it was juuuust outside of spec. (did it anyhow, because alignments are cheap and tires are expensive, and there's no way to know how far off it is until you get an alignment.)
 
Yeal messed up what ^^^^^^???
This forum is for education please post
No idea what I’m taking about but here are some pictures before it was fixed. I’m really chill with this mechanic he did it for free and I tipped him $100
 

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That is not Stinger/G70 specific.
It is a particularly likely problem with this platform.

Many other cars have MacPherson Struts that can be easily removed without loosening bushing bolts. For example, a lot of them are secured at the strut bottom with 2 thru bolts. Take them out and voila... wheel hub drops right out, leaving the strut dangling from the strut tower.

G70/Stinger's strut requires the strut bottom to be pulled completely out of the cup mount. I've seen some folks do it by down-pushing da crap out the wheel hub, without loosening the bushing bolts, but that severely deforms the bushings and could cause tears and/or permanent deformation in the rubber. Not the wisest thing to do.

Still others choose to compress the springs in situ, to allow the strut to be disassembled before removal. If you have the proper spring compressors, this is an acceptable method, though not ideal. However, the YT vids that did it this way made me cringe.

The safest way is to loosen the bushing bolts to allow for easy strut removal. The spring can then be safely compressed, then R&Red in a proper and safe manner, freed from the cramped quarters of the front wheel well.

The Stinger rear multi-link definitely requires removing multiple bushing bolts.

No right or wrong. Simpler suspension designs tend to be less sophisticated. It's a tradeoff one way or another.
 
No idea what I’m taking about but here are some pictures before it was fixed. I’m really chill with this mechanic he did it for free and I tipped him $100
I see what he did. he didn't put the strut back in the correct orientation. this circled part faces towards the inside of car on mine. no wonder it was hitting your tire.

1701402846139.png

here's mine
1701402954634.png
 
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There is a tab on that lower collar to index into the cup, in only one possible clock position. You can see that collar is not sitting flush against the cup, because that tab was not clocked right.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
There is a tab on that lower collar to index into the cup, in only one possible clock position. You can see that collar is not sitting flush against the cup, because that tab was not clocked right.
yup.
1701403661533.png


Looks like he didn't reattach your brake line retainer clip either:
1701404257718.png
 
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Wow what a complete hack job that person shouldn't work on anything. Your lucky you didn't have any other damage or a accident from all that
 
I am....
At a loss for words..

Glad it is sorted out, and thanks for sharing the pics ..

But dayum, that's some next level hackery.

This is why it's always good for automotive amateurs to take many photographs, in the hopes that they can reassemble it correctly.
 
I'm guessing yours is AWD. Eibach springs lowered our '19 2.0T RWD around 0.8" F & R.
This is what i kinda figured the drop would be with those. When i had my 30mm MTS Tecknic springs installed it hit the 1" mark pretty much on the money, RWD 2.0 as well. The MTS were built for the 2.0 rwd specifically so thats why i went with them. Rode nice too
 
Got it fixed, dude who installed them messed up the front. That's what you get when you pay someone $350 to install springs. He sent me $200 back, but had to buy new tires running me around $575 :(
You’re paying for the tires? That sucks. It was 100% his fault.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
You’re paying for the tires? That sucks. It was 100% his fault.
Why would anyone drive when the tires are rubbing? Wouldn't the rubbing have been blatantly obvious immediately upon installing the wheels
 
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It is a particularly likely problem with this platform.

Many other cars have MacPherson Struts that can be easily removed without loosening bushing bolts. For example, a lot of them are secured at the strut bottom with 2 thru bolts. Take them out and voila... wheel hub drops right out, leaving the strut dangling from the strut tower.

G70/Stinger's strut requires the strut bottom to be pulled completely out of the cup mount. I've seen some folks do it by down-pushing da crap out the wheel hub, without loosening the bushing bolts, but that severely deforms the bushings and could cause tears and/or permanent deformation in the rubber. Not the wisest thing to do.

Still others choose to compress the springs in situ, to allow the strut to be disassembled before removal. If you have the proper spring compressors, this is an acceptable method, though not ideal. However, the YT vids that did it this way made me cringe.

The safest way is to loosen the bushing bolts to allow for easy strut removal. The spring can then be safely compressed, then R&Red in a proper and safe manner, freed from the cramped quarters of the front wheel well.

The Stinger rear multi-link definitely requires removing multiple bushing bolts.

No right or wrong. Simpler suspension designs tend to be less sophisticated. It's a tradeoff one way or another.
Can you check out my post? Maybe you can help me out seems I’m having issues with the rear springs sitting properly.
 
i guess you should find another "dude" for future installs
 
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