Eibach F/R Swaybar Review!

[MerlintheMad]

My efforts to mod to improve these things are not having nearly the impact it did on my first one.

You did say "subjectively" and that is a good point (no, wait, you didn't; but you should have). My car has gotten "slower" as I have gotten used to it. I know it's just as fast. The "acceleration celebration" is just as good, but I am getting a tiny bit jaded, aka experienced. This is how "familiarity breeds contempt" if you allow it. I'm wondering where you think your GTS is heavier than the '18 GT; how much more does a LSD weigh? Would that even figure into human sensitivity? People move onto new cars because they get tired of their current ones. It's why people also change out their livingroom furniture before anything like worn (out).

 

[ZyroXZ2]

You did say "subjectively" and that is a good point (no, wait, you didn't; but you should have). My car has gotten "slower" as I have gotten used to it. I know it's just as fast. The "acceleration celebration" is just as good, but I am getting a tiny bit jaded, aka experienced. This is how "familiarity breeds contempt" if you allow it. I'm wondering where you think your GTS is heavier than the '18 GT; how much more does a LSD (Limited Slip Differential) weigh? Would that even figure into human sensitivity? People move onto new cars because they get tired of their current ones. It's why people also change out their livingroom furniture before anything like worn (out).

The first thing about me and my experience with cars is that I don't have that issue (I'm highly logical, it's not how fast it "feels", but how fast it actually is that I track, sometimes using landmarks, other times comparing exit speed from a corner or turn). Early in my years, I figured out that the brain adjusts. It was easy to come up with a solution: how fast was I going when I passed that landmark from that stoplight on a hard launch? You can then repeat it and get a baseline. It's how I've been able to tell things about cars others think I'm incapable of discerning: I use real life precision to track how it feels rather than just go "oh it feels faster". This is also done professionally: using landmarks (often skid marks on the pavement since they're already in your field of vision) helps you maintain your precision even if your brain fatigues or adjusts to the repetition.

The other is that I've gone over this already: it's not just an LSD, it's adding a sunroof, it's adding electrical safety bits, it's moving to 15 speakers (two of which are subs, this would be the biggest weight increase overall if you've ever held various speakers in your hands) from the factory 7 speakers. It's not just the weight, either: there are other small differences in this car's programming, too.

I'm absolutely the wrong person for you to execute your "Stinger Defense Force" protocols with, lol

 

[MerlintheMad]

I'm absolutely the wrong person for you to execute your "Stinger Defense Force" protocols with, lol

Not guilty. Interested, is my perspective. I forgot about the sunroof. The GT has subwoofers already. Minor, minor difference anyway. I didn't know that the GTS had "various" added electronics above the GT. I thought that they were more or less stripped/deprived of that nanny stuff vis-à-vis the GT2 and new GT1?

So, you've convinced me that you objectively know what you're measuring between the two Stingers you've driven. How much difference? Just the 0-60 difference? Both RWD, but with several hundred pounds of weight difference; so, wouldn't that account for most or all of it?

 

[ZyroXZ2]

Not guilty. Interested, is my perspective. I forgot about the sunroof. The GT has subwoofers already. Minor, minor difference anyway. I didn't know that the GTS had "various" added electronics above the GT. I thought that they were more or less stripped/deprived of that nanny stuff vis-à-vis the GT2 and new GT1?

So, you've convinced me that you objectively know what you're measuring between the two Stingers you've driven. How much difference? Just the 0-60 difference? Both RWD, but with several hundred pounds of weight difference; so, wouldn't that account for most or all of it?

That's the point, a couple hundred pounds mostly added to the center of the vehicle shouldn't make it heave like this through a turn compared to my GT. I should only be scrubbing a few MPH on a curve at most, but instead, I'm about 5 MPH down and the front end is scrubbing (understeer).

And you have to remember my zero-options GT was a MY18. That, and the programming on the '18 GT seemed a lot more uninhibited like it was MEANT to be thrown around a track. My '19 GTS seems to be programmed more deliberately, like adjustments were made to target specific parameters, though it DOES hold gears during cornering and even after straight line runs while my '18 GT did not and that could have incidentally saved me from my wreck to begin with...

 

[MerlintheMad]

How much does the sunroof weigh compared to solid steel roof? Just a question I never saw answered, even though that came up last year if not before.

"2019 Stinger GTS has never met a curve it didn't want to destroy". (direct magazine ad quote) That doesn't sound like "inhibited" programming to me.

Something else has to be at work here. You can't compare both cars. Months ago you were driving a different car. Did you keep records? Otherwise, your (seat of the pants) memory is all you've got to go by.

 

[ZyroXZ2]

How much does the sunroof weigh compared to solid steel roof? Just a question I never saw answered, even though that came up last year if not before.

"2019 Stinger GTS has never met a curve it didn't want to destroy". (direct magazine ad quote) That doesn't sound like "inhibited" programming to me.

Something else has to be at work here. You can't compare both cars. Months ago you were driving a different car. Did you keep records? Otherwise, your (seat of the pants) memory is all you've got to go by.

Well, as I'm diving deeper into this, it seems I may have overestimated the amount of slip the LSD would allow between the two rear wheels. From people with more experience racing, if the slip percentage is low (high engagement of the LSD), it would induce understeer quite readily even at lower speeds. So it doesn't matter that I'm at a low speed, the percentage of allowed slip between the two rear wheels is low enough that my 40MPH corner is just going to be a 35MPH corner with the LSD. Since we're using mechanical (clutch plate) type LSDs, this is just how much slip the engineers felt would be "right" when combined with their stability control systems... which I always turn off, and hence why this hurts me more than probably any of you, lol

Instead, I have to find other ways to compensate. Naturally, I'll zero out the toe in the rear to help reduce this. Trying to give it more throttle is a delicate nature: more throttle means MORE push outward from the turn; and there's a thin line before it breaks loose. I'm finding I have to turn in early on corners like a FWD for a more efficient corner and a higher exit speed. The open diff on my GT meant I could do a late-turn in which gave me more time to late brake. Ah the subtleties It also makes me wish we had a better LSD... here's hoping the aftermarket eventually releases a Torsen!

Also, that's why I don't really go by reviewers: if that magazine editor had driven a regular GT with no LSD, he probably would have been surprised at how much MORE nimble the car is.

 

[NS_Stinger]

Well I ordered the Eibach front bar to go along with the rear bar I already have installed on my AWD. When I get it installed I'll also post my thoughts. I now need to decide if I want to run the rear bar on hard and the front on soft. I'll probably start with both on soft and go from there.

 

[WHITEGT]

Hi Guys new to the club, 2019 GT AWD Limited
anyone running the complete setup from Eibach springs and both sway bars? never done sway on my cars just springs.
Looking to have a great ride, daily driver with sports car handling
I'm in Toronto if anyone has car meets not that we are allowed to assemble to close lol
thx

 

[MerlintheMad]

Hi Guys new to the club, 2019 GT AWD Limited
anyone running the complete setup from Eibach springs and both sway bars? never done sway on my cars just springs.
Looking to have a great ride, daily driver with sports car handling
I'm in Toronto if anyone has car meets not that we are allowed to assemble to close lol
thx

Hi, and welcome. A number of forum members have both Eibach sways and springs. You can search (good luck, the find function is finicky about what it "finds") and find probably quite a few threads already about this combination.

 

[cncBilly]

Hi Guys new to the club, 2019 GT AWD Limited
anyone running the complete setup from Eibach springs and both sway bars? never done sway on my cars just springs.
Looking to have a great ride, daily driver with sports car handling
I'm in Toronto if anyone has car meets not that we are allowed to assemble to close lol
thx

Welcome. I got a ‘19 Ltd as well other side of the country though. Quite a few T.O. Stingers on here check out the CDN section. I’m also looking at sways, springs & end links some good info early on in this thread and all over the forum for that matter. Cheers.

 

[TimT]

Do the Eibach swaybars 100% require also new endlinks? Can someone refer me to a few links of the endlinks available? Eibach's I can get relatively easilly in europe.

 

[Stinger GT SS]

Do the Eibach swaybars 100% require also new endlinks? Can someone refer me to a few links of the endlinks available? Eibach's I can get relatively easilly in europe.

No you don’t need to replace the Endlinks when fitting Swaybars.
I have upgraded mine & I have Whiteline Heavy Duty Endlinks.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Do the Eibach swaybars 100% require also new endlinks? Can someone refer me to a few links of the endlinks available? Eibach's I can get relatively easilly in europe.

Stock end links here. I've never felt a need to change them.

 

[WHITEGT]

Got my front and rear Eibach sways and springs installed love it!!

 

[cjbigcog]

Well I ordered the Eibach front bar to go along with the rear bar I already have installed on my AWD. When I get it installed I'll also post my thoughts. I now need to decide if I want to run the rear bar on hard and the front on soft. I'll probably start with both on soft and go from there.

Installed yet?

 

[MerlintheMad]

Got my front and rear Eibach sways and springs installed love it!!

Now that's the way to show off the difference between OE and aftermarket.

 

[TRAIL BOSS]

I just completed the front and rear Eibach sway bar install myself. It wasn’t difficult, simply time consuming to manage the left rear mount. 1:30 total time. The results in handling are consistent with everyone else’s experiences. Soft front hard rear.

I REALLY appreciate all of you on the forum for the combined wisdom and tips... it really made the install so much smoother. This forum has a lot of great information without most of the BS you usually have to sift through. The tips I used that were pivotal in doing the work are listed below. I hope they can help someone like they did me!

1. Perform this work on a lift. It’s possible in stands, but having the sway bar at eye-level was nice.

2. I bought 1 short and two deep well 14mm sockets. I cut one of the deep wells into a medium-length socket, which was perfect for the install as the other two lengths were too small or too long.

3. Loosen the wheel well liner and remove the two 10mm nuts holding the fuel lines. It’s 1 min of work that added a significant amount of range to my ratchet and allowed me to squeeze my giant dickbeaters in above the mounts for hardware reinstallation.

4. I used the tip of a nitrile exam glove in the end of my loose 14mm socket to hold the hardware in place while rethreading on the new sway mounts.

5. The 18” swivel head ratchet wasn’t necessary with the fuel lines loosened. The length was needed, but not the swivel.

6. The impact driver with the 17mm nuts on the end links works well for removal, but be sure to have your Allen keys and 17mm box wrench handy for re-install.

7. There is a video out there showing the bushings being slid allllllll the way on from the ends. Don’t do that. Just use the split to install them at the correct location after greasing.

8. Keep the passenger side attached on the rear sway while working on removing the driver’s side. It will help make room for tools as the OEM sway is pre-tensioned upward.

Tools used:
-18” 3/8 drive pivoting-head ratchet
-10mm socket (under chassis guards)
-14mm mid-depth socket (sway bar mounts)
-17mm socket (end links)
-21mm socket (wheel lugs)
-17mm combination wrench
-Flat head screwdriver (plastic retainers)
-Allen wrench set
-Impact driver
-Torque wrench

Thanks again everyone!

 

[Spriggan]

So I installed the bars last night, and here are my thoughts/questions:

1. TIP: Get an 18" long socket wrench. I got one with 108 teeth which help moved the sockets a bit more. Plenty of leverage.
2. TIP: Get a 14mm mid-size socket- when using this I didn't need the flex-part of the above ratchet. In fact, I never used that feature.
3. TIP: Remove the driver rear wheel liner and loosen the 10mm fuel line bracket nuts- the extra room was a big help (as @TRAIL BOSS says above)
4. QUESTION: How did you all torque down the rear driver side brackets? My torque wrench could get there, but there wasn't enough room to get enough leverage. I ended up hand-tightening until I couldn't get any more turn on the ratchet.
5. QUESTION: How did you torque down the front end links to the brackets (behind the wheel)? I needed to have an allen wrench to keep the inner piece from spinning so couldn't fit the torque wrench over it. I ultimately hand-tightened this as well using a box and fallen wrench. Did any of you use a torque accessory crowfoot wrench set?
6. QUESTION: Would there be any issues with having the brackets slid all the way to the front or back? For the rears, I pushed the bracket all the way toward the rear of the car and the front was pushed all the way to the front and tightened from there. There didn't appear to be any clearance issues and I wanted to ensure the bar was as straight as possible.

I marked all the bolts with paint. I'll be pulling everything and checking the torques numbers I can get to and see if anything moved in after about a month or so.

Below are two pictures to show the clearances- thought this would be helpful for people to see. The second picture clearly shows that you won't need the flex-head feature if you get a mid-size socket.

 

[namja]

I literally just got these installed an hour ago (paid, no time because I have a Stinger meet tomorrow).

Definitely feel like comfort is the new Sport. Wasn't able to try performance turns except one that was basically a 90 degree ish freeway ramp (I-5N to 525 in Washington), so I haven't experienced the joy of the floatiness being gone...yet.

Anyway, I have a future concern - installer (who has lots of experience with installing springs/sways with all cars except the Stinger) said that I'm guaranteed to hear squeaking in the future and that I'll need to "constantly" grease the bushings. I'm guessing what he's basically advising me is to use the marine lube instead of the provided one when I start hearing squeaking. Just wondering how many others are experiencing this?

Also, can anybody explain what it means for the car to "twitch"? That's not the same as "floatiness" feel is it?

 

[MerlintheMad]

Also, can anybody explain what it means for the car to "twitch"? That's not the same as "floatiness" feel is it?

It's also called "stepping out in the back". An undulation in the surface will cause the rear to hop or "float" and the rear end will step out then return to the line. It's a disconcerting feeling/movement. The rear bar almost entirely eliminates both float and twitch/stepping out.