Eibach F/R Swaybar Review!

OK guys - thanks for the reading lesson. It's the brackets that have the slots. But why the hell would they? The brackets aren't supposed to move within the range of the slots, that'd be stupid and wear out parts. WTF?

Exactly. That's where my concerns are and why I wrote so much about that part. o_O

I guess I'll find out if there's an "ideal" position since mine are just centered right now. In some spirited driving, I found myself dogtailing on gear shifts during WOT whereas I didn't before. And I'm not talking from a dig: I dogtailed in the 90MPH 3rd gear shift. That's usually a 800-900HP car kind of thing! There's no way I'm making enough power to do that: the amount the car squats on the shift is maybe 1"-2" at MOST. I'm continuing to keep an eye on things to update my review as needed (of course!). 520HP is not dangerous territory, I shouldn't be fighting the rear end like this at such low power levels (relatively speaking). It could have been the road, it could have been the tires, it could have been many things, so I haven't updated my review until I can get some repeated results.

EDIT: To clarify my response with "exactly": the brackets don't MOVE once they're bolted down. They move prior to bolting them down which means sloppy work could have the brackets in different positions.
 
Exactly. That's where my concerns are and why I wrote so much about that part. o_O

I guess I'll find out if there's an "ideal" position since mine are just centered right now. In some spirited driving, I found myself dogtailing on gear shifts during WOT whereas I didn't before. And I'm not talking from a dig: I dogtailed in the 90MPH 3rd gear shift. That's usually a 800-900HP car kind of thing! There's no way I'm making enough power to do that: the amount the car squats on the shift is maybe 1"-2" at MOST. I'm continuing to keep an eye on things to update my review as needed (of course!). 520HP is not dangerous territory, I shouldn't be fighting the rear end like this at such low power levels (relatively speaking). It could have been the road, it could have been the tires, it could have been many things, so I haven't updated my review until I can get some repeated results.

EDIT: To clarify my response with "exactly": the brackets don't MOVE once they're bolted down. They move prior to bolting them down which means sloppy work could have the brackets in different positions.
Got it, thanks.

Now, you've got them both set to firm. I wonder, if you set them both to soft, if you'd be satisfied and lose that ass wiggle?
 
Exactly. That's where my concerns are and why I wrote so much about that part. o_O

I guess I'll find out if there's an "ideal" position since mine are just centered right now. In some spirited driving, I found myself dogtailing on gear shifts during WOT whereas I didn't before. And I'm not talking from a dig: I dogtailed in the 90MPH 3rd gear shift. That's usually a 800-900HP car kind of thing! There's no way I'm making enough power to do that: the amount the car squats on the shift is maybe 1"-2" at MOST. I'm continuing to keep an eye on things to update my review as needed (of course!). 520HP is not dangerous territory, I shouldn't be fighting the rear end like this at such low power levels (relatively speaking). It could have been the road, it could have been the tires, it could have been many things, so I haven't updated my review until I can get some repeated results.

EDIT: To clarify my response with "exactly": the brackets don't MOVE once they're bolted down. They move prior to bolting them down which means sloppy work could have the brackets in different positions.

I think they are like that because Eibach shares bracket within different models that use bars with same thickness. Just a guess though.
 
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I think they are like that because Eibach shares bracket within different models that use bars with same thickness. Just a guess though.

Kinda what I was thinking, too, but I'm unsure without an actual answer from Eibach. The bushing is separate from the bracket, though, so the bar diameter is unrelated. This bracket is probably applied to a variety of vehicles where the holes are sometimes further apart or closer together. They might have different size brackets, so it's like "Bracket A fits [these] vehicles, Bracket B fits [those] vehicles".
 
Got it, thanks.

Now, you've got them both set to firm. I wonder, if you set them both to soft, if you'd be satisfied and lose that ass wiggle?
Mine are both set “softest” & also HD Whiteline End Links fitted, I have experienced no “wiggle”.
Point the car into a corner on the gas & it now just drives though with ease & just to qualify mine is RWD.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Got it, thanks.

Now, you've got them both set to firm. I wonder, if you set them both to soft, if you'd be satisfied and lose that ass wiggle?

I'm highly resistant to going to "soft" because I'm betting that's really close to stock which would defeat the purpose of my investment :sneaky: Plus, it feels amazing on firm anyway!
 
I'm highly resistant to going to "soft" because I'm betting that's really close to stock which would defeat the purpose of my investment :sneaky: Plus, it feels amazing on firm anyway!
Soft is also a big step up from stock.
 
Mine are both set “softest” & also HD Whiteline End Links fitted, I have experienced no “wiggle”.
Point the car into a corner on the gas & it now just drives though with ease & just to qualify mine is RWD.

Well, he says wiggle, but it's specifically dogtailing. In my case, all three times the rear went right (passenger side).

The shimmy going over speed bumps at a slight angle or over steep driveways is probably more a factor of them being on firm.
 
Mine are both set “softest” & also HD Whiteline End Links fitted, I have experienced no “wiggle”.
Point the car into a corner on the gas & it now just drives though with ease & just to qualify mine is RWD.
Did you do the installation yourself?
 
Soft is also a big step up from stock.

B-b-but... it sounds WEAK! :lipsaresealed:

We'll see, I can try soft just to see. I'm putting in sport springs this weekend so if those take care of firming up a little over bumpy roads, I may move the bars to soft at that point as a better balance if, indeed, firm is just "too much".
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Kinda what I was thinking, too, but I'm unsure without an actual answer from Eibach. The bushing is separate from the bracket, though, so the bar diameter is unrelated. This bracket is probably applied to a variety of vehicles where the holes are sometimes further apart or closer together. They might have different size brackets, so it's like "Bracket A fits [these] vehicles, Bracket B fits [those] vehicles".

They have one machine that makes all bars, so I won't be surprised if they make shareable parts.
 
Did you do the installation yourself?
No, my dealer did the sways last Oct. & a Suspension Specialist supplied & fitted the end links last month.
Before end links fitted I have done some substantial drives, over 5,000kms with the sways fitted, using mix of freeways & windy country roads on all my trips & this upgrade does not disappoint, smooth & comfortable on freeway, positive & responsive on windy, twisty country road, suits my driving style & the endlinks are the cherry on top.
You will not be disappointed in the upgrades.
 
No, my dealer did the sways last Oct. & a Suspension Specialist supplied & fitted the end links last month.
Before end links fitted I have done some substantial drives, over 5,000kms with the sways fitted, using mix of freeways & windy country roads on all my trips & this upgrade does not disappoint, smooth & comfortable on freeway, positive & responsive on windy, twisty country road, suits my driving style & the endlinks are the cherry on top.
You will not be disappointed in the upgrades.
I'm having my sways and endlinks installed by a tech I trust, too. Just would like to feed him any helpful info that I can. Thanks.
 
B-b-but... it sounds WEAK! :lipsaresealed:

We'll see, I can try soft just to see. I'm putting in sport springs this weekend so if those take care of firming up a little over bumpy roads, I may move the bars to soft at that point as a better balance if, indeed, firm is just "too much".
By all means try soft, whatever suits your driving style. If you note Eibach explanations for Hard & Soft settings then you will see why I went soft, but in the end it’s all about what you like & what’s suits your driving style.
 
I'm having my sways and endlinks installed by a tech I trust, too. Just would like to feed him any helpful info that I can. Thanks.
Just make sure they grease the bushes & fit the grease nipples, also be specific about what settings you want all round.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'm having my sways and endlinks installed by a tech I trust, too. Just would like to feed him any helpful info that I can. Thanks.
Hope all goes well & I will be interested in your review once the install is done.
 
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Thanks for all of it. You were obviously enjoying yourself too, which is the added bonus a teacher gets. :thumbup: I know I've heard all of this before. But lacking a vehicle to enjoy cornering with, most of it simply bounced off, before. :p

The enjoyment of imparting knowledge is why I am an Adjunct Lecturer for a University as a side-gig. :)

So 20% front 80% rear (Sport mode) will mitigate understeer; might even bring on some oversteer.

If you're applying power at the time, yes, as the thrust angle of the rear wheels will be "outside" the line of the curve, and thus will induce rotation in towards the curve.

I'm fighting oversteer (especially when I had the Nitto Motivo A/S on).

Yes, I mentioned grip co-efficiencts I believe. :)

I've put the Eibach on soft, which reduces understeer; but Sport mode might be reducing understeer even more, and could, under heavier G in cornering, result in oversteer.

All other things being equal (this is rarely the case):

For the front swaybar, the stiffer you go, the more understeer you'll experience.
For the rear swaybar, the stiffer you go, the more oversteer you'll experience.

Where you start having fun is where you get the interaction of power delivery AND swaybar variation. Effectively, your swaybars will control initial corner turn-in, power distribution will control power-on corner exit. The combination of the two will impact how the car behaves in the transition between turn-in and exit.

Custom mode, retaining Sport for the suspension, but choosing Comfort/Eco for engine/transmission, should retain 50/50 for power output with AWD. I wonder how hard I'd have to push it in a corner to tell any difference between Sport (20/80) and Comfort (50/50) vis-à-vis understeer and oversteer?

OK, so the stiffer suspension setting will reduce weight transfer, meaning slightly better handling. Engine Transmission will keep power delivery more linear and controllable. How hard you need to push in a corner to tell the difference between 50:50 and 20:80 - you should start to feel that almost immediately as you apply power coming out of a corner.
 
No, my dealer did the sways last Oct. & a Suspension Specialist supplied & fitted the end links last month.
Before end links fitted I have done some substantial drives, over 5,000kms with the sways fitted, using mix of freeways & windy country roads on all my trips & this upgrade does not disappoint, smooth & comfortable on freeway, positive & responsive on windy, twisty country road, suits my driving style & the endlinks are the cherry on top.
You will not be disappointed in the upgrades.


Same feelings about this upgrade here. This car should have come with these, it feels just right.
 
Where you start having fun is where you get the interaction of power delivery AND swaybar variation. Effectively, your swaybars will control initial corner turn-in, power distribution will control power-on corner exit. The combination of the two will impact how the car behaves in the transition between turn-in and exit.
You said it was simpler than this! And now you're scaring me. ;)
OK, so the stiffer suspension setting will reduce weight transfer, meaning slightly better handling. Engine Transmission will keep power delivery more linear and controllable. How hard you need to push in a corner to tell the difference between 50:50 and 20:80 - you should start to feel that almost immediately as you apply power coming out of a corner.
Cool. Trouble is, I am still too new to this and won't know what I am feeling compared to "what". Not until I've done this a bunch more times. And at the rate I get over there to tool around "my skidpad" (cloverleaf), my learning curve is taking too long to make comparisons; memory being what it is! :rolleyes: Right now, "seat memory" is all Sport, TSC off, Rear bar on "soft"; and I am okay with how it feels and sounds coming out under acceleration. But again, if I could just do this for a bunch of times without interruption then I could start to sound coherent about how it goes.
 
You said it was simpler than this! And now you're scaring me. ;)

Cool. Trouble is, I am still too new to this and won't know what I am feeling compared to "what". Not until I've done this a bunch more times. And at the rate I get over there to tool around "my skidpad" (cloverleaf), my learning curve is taking too long to make comparisons; memory being what it is! :rolleyes: Right now, "seat memory" is all Sport, TSC off, Rear bar on "soft"; and I am okay with how it feels and sounds coming out under acceleration. But again, if I could just do this for a bunch of times without interruption then I could start to sound coherent about how it goes.

Actually, I'm the one that said it was simple and tried to boil it down instead of get nerdy, but seeing as how several others have gotten technical with you, I guess I avoided confusing you for nothing :laugh::rofl:
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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