DON'T machine your rotors for this; it is totally unnecessary because your rotors are not warped. When I was young and stupid I street raced my ZR1 Corvette and after long hard stops where I could not let the brakes cool down, but had to hold the brake, I would get a pulsating pedal, and I could not find any runout on the rotor so I knew it was just glaze. What I did to resolve this was smear a little water-based valve grinding compound on each side of all four rotors, go do a long, slow stop, come back, wash off the brakes thoroughly (making sure there was no compound left on the seals), then went out to re-bed the brakes (2-3 hard stops from ~60mph) with five minutes cooling time between each stop. I've done this on several other cars as well and it works like a charm! I think I started doing this when I had a Z; it was either that or the MR2. I've driven insane speeds, and I've gotten brake rotors red hot in some of the cars I've had, but have never had rotors that were warped. Glazed, yes, definitely. Warped, no.
As mentioned the partial fix for this is to choose harder pads; I tend to use EBC Red Stuff to help avoid these issues. (I don't think they make pads for the Stinger but there are several vendors who make good pads for it), but if you do a long hard stop and then sit on the brake at a stop with no cooloff time, it doesn't matter what pads you have; deposits will be left behind and your brake pedal will pulsate. The euro spec pads will help, so if this is a repeating issue on your car, either change your braking habits, or insist your dealer install the euro spec pads. The real fix is to let your brakes cool off before standing on them or before using brake hold. Instead of the brake hold after a hard stop, use the parking brake, which if I have read correctly, on the Stinger is a small drum brake (like the C2-C3 Corvettes' parking brake was).
