3.3TT DIY intakes w/Heat shielding drop about 0.2sec off 0-60

StungBlueGT2

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So I recently went to a few car meets and got the tuner itch again. I threw on my homemade CAI(cool air intake;))system with heat shielding, but before I did I ran another stock 0-60 test to get a good baseline. I know video editing is not the most accurate measurement, but I’ve run consistent stock 4.8sec 0-60s using this method. I do my best to crop at the same frame for each run and was even a little conservative on the DIY intake run of 4.6sec. I’m amazed on the improvement just intakes made and can’t wait to add exhaust and see what that does next.:D See below for pics of intakes and video tests.
09FA32F2-B054-4EB2-911F-5A77D5E33EA2.webp
AE3D3944-2EB8-4D79-B012-814BCA8C8C04.webp 3A694A92-5E46-4D58-81E2-69A8D050559B.webp 7DF846DF-9EB9-4AC7-807D-D9CA9E759D62.webp 49334401-903C-4AF4-94F4-432CBB38E4B7.webp
One of my earlier stock 4.8 runs.
The 4.8 confirmation run the day before intake swap.
The 4.6 run with DIY CAIs!
A 4.7 run with DIY CAIs and Autohold launch. Little slower off the line but still faster than stock.:thumbup:

Gotta say it again..Love this car more and more everyday!
 
What are your “shields” made out of? Looks like cardboard.
 
What are your “shields” made out of? Looks like cardboard.
o_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_O:geek::geek: no comment I like to know as well but at the same time I prefer not too..........
 
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What are your “shields” made out of? Looks like cardboard.
o_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_O:geek::geek: no comment I like to know as well but at the same time I prefer not too..........
Lol. You guys are funny but will admit I didn’t think the first two comments would have been negative.:confused::(

But to clarify NO, it’s not cardboard. It’s Thermo-Tec Aluminized heat barrier you get at Autozone or auto supply stores. It’s a 24x12 sheet of malleable composite material that can be used anywhere to reflect 2000 degrees of heat.
BD5FA53D-A601-4061-A2AB-2DAA5591CFE3.webp
Ive used it many times in my cars over the years and it makes a huge difference blocking heat from the engine, especially the turbos. If you look closely I outlined the frame under and around the filters up over the strut bars. So it actually makes a barrier blocking 3 of 4 sides and with the hood closed it almost completely seals the filters away from the engine heat. Since most of the hot air is kept behind the barrier it’s quickly drawn away when driving and cool air from OEM air inlet is sucked directly into the filter. I’ll try to get a temperature comparison later, but agree it blocks 90% of heat from the filters.

I admit it’s not perfect, but it does make a big difference in performance and would says its 80-90% as effective of other semi-sealed CAIs available.:thumbup:
 
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Lol. You guys are funny but will admit I didn’t think the first two comments would have been negative.:confused::(

But to clarify NO, it’s not cardboard. It’s Thermo-Tec Aluminized heat barrier you get at Autozone or auto supply stores. It’s a 24x12 sheet of malleable composite material that can be used anywhere to reflect 2000 degrees of heat.
View attachment 10115
Ive used it many times in my cars over the years and it makes a huge difference blocking heat from the engine, especially the turbos. If you look closely I outlined the frame under and around the filter up over the strut bars. So it actually makes a barrier blocking 3 of 4 sides and with the hood closed it almost completely seals the filters away from the engine heat. Since most of the hot air is kept behind the barrier it’s quickly draw away when driving and cool air from OEM air inlet is sucked directly into the filter. I’ll try to get a temperature comparison later, but agree it blocks 90% of heat from the filters.

I admit it’s not perfect, but it does make a big difference in performance and would says its 80-90% as effective of other semi-sealed CAIs available.:thumbup:
FYI I didn't mean my comment in a negative way, I was just joking around. I am all for DYI especially when there cost effective and save you money. Just curios what did you do did you just take the OEM airbox out and put a filter in there?? or did you have to fabricate or buy any additional piping..can you please give more details....
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
FYI I didn't mean my comment in a negative way, I was just joking around. I am all for DYI especially when there cost effective and save you money. Just curios what did you do did you just take the OEM airbox out and put a filter in there?? or did you have to fabricate or buy any additional piping..can you please give more details....
Its ok and I understand. I guess I was just hoping for some raving reviews or high fives all around! lol:p Jk

I took the airbox out and used 3x2” intake tubes(from Autozone) to join the Spectre cone filters with the OEM piping. It almost fits perfectly between them so you can barely see it. Then I used two 8” brackets & 4 small “L” brackets to secure each side to filter clamps(see last picture). It basically sits 1” above the brackets and right in front of the OEM air inlets. It’s similar to the K&N Typhoon positioning.

In total I spent just over $100 for all the materials including the heat shielding. It may not look professional, but it was worth every penny!:D

Hope this helps and let me know if you need any more details. Happy tuning!
 
But to clarify NO, it’s not cardboard. It’s Thermo-Tec Aluminized heat barrier you get at Autozone or auto supply stores. It’s a 24x12 sheet of malleable composite material that can be used anywhere to reflect 2000 degrees of heat.
View attachment 10115

That product is used to block RADIANT heat. You would have better results if you use something (maybe some form of foam or board) designed to insulate an area from heat CONDUCTION. Different principals--you don't have much radiant heat in your engine bay.
 
I love your DIY intake and the experimentation with the heat shield. But to get a .2 drop you would need to add about 20-25 hp. But I'm sure it is faster with the shielding.
 
Its ok and I understand. I guess I was just hoping for some raving reviews or high fives all around! lol:p Jk

I took the airbox out and used 3x2” intake tubes(from Autozone) to join the Spectre cone filters with the OEM piping. It almost fits perfectly between them so you can barely see it. Then I used two 8” brackets & 4 small “L” brackets to secure each side to filter clamps(see last picture). It basically sits 1” above the brackets and right in front of the OEM air inlets. It’s similar to the K&N Typhoon positioning.

In total I spent just over $100 for all the materials including the heat shielding. It may not look professional, but it was worth every penny!:D

Hope this helps and let me know if you need any more details. Happy tuning!
Do you the part numbers for the AutoZone tubes, are you able to please make a list of items used and part numbers?? also where did you get the brackets can provide links for those?? and maybe a quick step by step of where toy put the brackets at, i think that would be beneficial for those trying to it themselves, thanks man great job
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
That product is used to block RADIANT heat. You would have better results if you use something (maybe some form of foam or board) designed to insulate an area from heat CONDUCTION. Different principals--you don't have much radiant heat in your engine bay.
Thanks for the suggestion and I considered making a box to frame the insulation around. Maybe on version 3.0 lol. But in theory I’m already creating a box by using the frame & strut bar as my sides. The insulation is sealed so it’s making a 24x12 soft box barrier between the filters and the engine/turbos that are “radiating” heat.

Which also makes me respectfully disagree with your reasoning. The only heat that would affect the air temperature going into the filters would be radiant heat, not conductive. The filters aren’t touching anything that conducts heat. However the hot air radiating from the engine/turbos is what causes “heat soaking” and what you’re trying to prevent. This soft box of heat shielding keeps the air surrounding the filter drastically cooler than the super hot air on the other side of the insulation.:thumbup:
 
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I love your DIY intake and the experimentation with the heat shield. But to get a .2 drop you would need to add about 20-25 hp. But I'm sure it is faster with the shielding.
Thanks and I agree with you completely.

I was shocked myself and why I posted videos verifying the difference. I honestly didn’t think it would be traceable, or maybe I’d see a 0.1sec improvement. And again I know it’s not 100% accurate, but I even added an extra frame or two at the end of the 4.6 run just to be on the conservative side...

I’m going to do more tests later and may get a “dragy” for future comparisons, but unless I’m missing something it really seems like it made a 0.1-0.2 difference.:thumbup:
 
Thanks for the suggestion and I considered making a box to frame the insulation around. Maybe on version 3.0 lol. But in theory I’m already creating a box by using the frame & strut bar as my sides. The insulation is sealed so it’s making a 24x12 soft box barrier between the filters and the engine/turbos that are “radiating” heat.

Which also makes me respectfully disagree with your reasoning. The only heat that would affect the air temperature going into the filters would be radiant heat, not conducive. The filters aren’t touching anything that conducts heat. However the hot air radiating from the engine/turbos is what causes “heat soaking” and what you’re trying to prevent. This soft box of heat shielding keeps the air surrounding the filter drastically cooler than the super hot air on the other side of the insulation.:thumbup:
If you guys keep going with all this technical talk you will lose money LOL....i think its great DIY......
 
Do you the part numbers for the AutoZone tubes, are you able to please make a list of items used and part numbers?? also where did you get the brackets can provide links for those?? and maybe a quick step by step of where toy put the brackets at, i think that would be beneficial for those trying to it themselves, thanks man great job
I can’t find it on Autozone website but this is the one I used and just cut it in half so I had two 3x2in connections for each filter.
Spectre Performance 87081 , Intake Tube Straight
I got the brackets from a local hardware store, but have seen similar ones at Ace Hardware & Home Depot. I’ll see if I can find more info but they’re just 8” stainless steel extensions I found in the “mounting & brackets” department. They also had 6” & 10” versions, but the 8” fit perfectly and the holes fit the OEM screws and mount that held the airbox.
E9F7D823-1AD8-4A8E-81BF-B724E6B1FE5A.webp
Then I made “C” brackets with two 1x1/2in corner braces(National Hardware #N208-728) held together by #10-24x1/2in machine screws & hex nuts. I just put one side under the filter clamp and the other to the end of the 8” extension.
A1B0BFBD-A47C-4DA9-8079-B206CD37F04F.webp
It took a little work getting everything together and adjusted, but in the end everything fit perfectly with no touching and no bending of any tubing etc.

I hope this helps and let me know if you have any more questions. Happy tuning!:thumbup:
 
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Nice work and congratulations! Keep improvising!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Nice work and congratulations! Keep improvising!
Thanks for the kind words and positive reinforcement!:thumbup:

I’ve always been the type to search out the “best bang for the buck”, but admit it’s more fun when others take notice and appreciate the effort!

Thanks again and happy motoring.:D
 
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Lol. You guys are funny but will admit I didn’t think the first two comments would have been negative.:confused::(

But to clarify NO, it’s not cardboard. It’s Thermo-Tec Aluminized heat barrier you get at Autozone or auto supply stores. It’s a 24x12 sheet of malleable composite material that can be used anywhere to reflect 2000 degrees of heat.
View attachment 10115
Ive used it many times in my cars over the years and it makes a huge difference blocking heat from the engine, especially the turbos. If you look closely I outlined the frame under and around the filters up over the strut bars. So it actually makes a barrier blocking 3 of 4 sides and with the hood closed it almost completely seals the filters away from the engine heat. Since most of the hot air is kept behind the barrier it’s quickly drawn away when driving and cool air from OEM air inlet is sucked directly into the filter. I’ll try to get a temperature comparison later, but agree it blocks 90% of heat from the filters.

I admit it’s not perfect, but it does make a big difference in performance and would says its 80-90% as effective of other semi-sealed CAIs available.:thumbup:
Nice! Would love the see some. Running Temps If you have the thermal couplers to. Measure while driving. I've used this stuff in the engine bay on project cars before to shield intakes and master cylinders from hot exhaust and turbos. It might not look pretty, but you probably did a better job than most of the semi shielded intakes on the market!
 
Can you make me video on how to do this exactly :D Awesome work man! Wish i was as knowledgeable with this stuff as some here.
 
Can you make me video on how to do this exactly :D Awesome work man! Wish i was as knowledgeable with this stuff as some here.
It’s actually not difficult. Just takes some patience and a few basic tools. After a little practice I can switch out everything for both intakes in about an hour.:D

I can try to make a simple step by step guide later if that would help.:thumbup:

Thanks again for the compliments and let me know if you have any more questions.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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