Discussion of Stinger paint quality (Was - Paint Chip Issue)

Paint Chip Poll - Have you experienced unwarranted paint chipping with your Stinger

  • Yes - Yellow

    Votes: 37 7.9%
  • Yes - Blue

    Votes: 57 12.2%
  • Yes - Deep Chroma Blue

    Votes: 6 1.3%
  • Yes - Silky Silver

    Votes: 13 2.8%
  • Yes - Ceramic Silver

    Votes: 40 8.6%
  • Yes - Black

    Votes: 70 15.0%
  • Yes - Panthera Metal

    Votes: 18 3.9%
  • Yes - White

    Votes: 28 6.0%
  • Yes - Red

    Votes: 49 10.5%
  • No - Without permanent protective coating

    Votes: 113 24.2%
  • No - With permanent protective coating

    Votes: 36 7.7%

  • Total voters
    467
Also tested the GLE last week along with the new Alfa Romeo Stelvio and Giulia! I thought the Giulia handled fantastic. Here again new vehicle, new plant in North America and new car buyers are saying they should have waited a year to get out the bugs. The GLE fit and finish is impeccable but looking for a little more excitement. AMG and my wife would divorce me then I'd be sleeping in it. Brings me back to the Kia Stinger or possibly the Genesis G70. Both cars are well equipped and stylish for less money. Plus hate spending over $200 for A service and almost $300 for B service. Final decision will ultimately rest on whether Kia resolves it issues and who has the best deal at the time. Anxious to test the new Genesis G70 when available. Meeting with salesman this week to drive a fully loaded Stinger.
I think you'll be very happy with the Stinger.
 
Yes, mine is blue. I think it's more-so, they will be willing to fix whatever is damaged and in my case it's the hood and fenders. If anything happens down the road, those will be fixed, too.

I see. I guess the problem with mine is that there has been spots on nearly every painted surface (maybe not the rear of the car however, I have not spent time looking that area over recently). I wouldn't want to keep taking it back in to have different areas fixed, I would want it all done at once so I could reapply the paint protection and try to have the paints life extended as long as possible. Outside of a repaint or a swap, I would probably want my money back even though I still want to own a Stinger.
 
I see. I guess the problem with mine is that there has been spots on nearly every painted surface (maybe not the rear of the car however, I have not spent time looking that area over recently). I wouldn't want to keep taking it back in to have different areas fixed, I would want it all done at once so I could reapply the paint protection and try to have the paints life extended as long as possible. Outside of a repaint or a swap, I would probably want my money back even though I still want to own a Stinger.
It seems like Kia will be taking care of this on a case-by-case basis, so each of us will have a different need/experience.
 
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I just noticed my driver door handle has 2 small chips.. obv we have a wireless key so no key to metal contact... it's a dark base layer.. am I being too anal or is it worth bringing this up with kia? Or touch up n forget?
20180605_170405.webp
 
I just noticed my driver door handle has 2 small chips.. obv we have a wireless key so no key to metal contact... it's a dark base layer.. am I being too anal or is it worth bringing this up with kia? Or touch up n forget?
View attachment 8341
Unless you have other paint chip issues that are unquestionably paint defects, I would touch up n forget
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Unless you have other paint chip issues that are unquestionably paint defects, I would touch up n forget
How do you know? I have 5 medium size chips and probably 30 that are the size of a toothpick head. Can a grain of sand chip pant to bare metal at 70 mph? Doubt it.
The larger chips, wind sheild, head lights, license cover all have no impact marks. I've had 30 cars over 43 years and never seen paint like this. But not sure prove it is a defect .
 
Is it just me or does there seem to be a pattern of people in warmer climates with the issue? I also wonder if it's more likely to happen after using a pressure washer based on various accounts I'm hearing. I don't know whether to "baby" the paint when my GT is delivered next week or give it a solid workout with a pressure washer at close-distance, machine polisher etc. to see if it's going to fail.

To be honest, if it's going to fail, I'd rather it happened early and catastrophically rather than some drawn-out process where a dealer may or may not feel it's a problem. I'm also one of those people that enjoys detailing as a hobby so paint issues could leave a really bad taste in my mouth.
 
Is it just me or does there seem to be a pattern of people in warmer climates with the issue? I also wonder if it's more likely to happen after using a pressure washer based on various accounts I'm hearing. I don't know whether to "baby" the paint when my GT is delivered next week or give it a solid workout with a pressure washer at close-distance, machine polisher etc. to see if it's going to fail.

To be honest, if it's going to fail, I'd rather it happened early and catastrophically rather than some drawn-out process where a dealer may or may not feel it's a problem. I'm also one of those people that enjoys detailing as a hobby so paint issues could leave a really bad taste in my mouth.
This is just my opinion, but if a pressure washer is going to cause a failure of the paint we already have a problem. We are talking about factory paint, a pay n spray operation. I really enjoying detailing my cars as well.

I did a full detail post delivery, cut, polish, seal with my DA( Megauirs Ultimate Compound, Meg’s 205, Groits seal). I do not see how those actions are tied to chipping at all. The chipping owners are seeing appeara as if sections of the base and clear are separating from the primer and/or metal.
 
Is it just me or does there seem to be a pattern of people in warmer climates with the issue? I also wonder if it's more likely to happen after using a pressure washer based on various accounts I'm hearing. I don't know whether to "baby" the paint when my GT is delivered next week or give it a solid workout with a pressure washer at close-distance, machine polisher etc. to see if it's going to fail.

To be honest, if it's going to fail, I'd rather it happened early and catastrophically rather than some drawn-out process where a dealer may or may not feel it's a problem. I'm also one of those people that enjoys detailing as a hobby so paint issues could leave a really bad taste in my mouth.

I dont think the warmer climate is a part of the problem. My car since i bought has been through 10°/-12C to 98°/37C, so i have covered the range. this is definitely a problem of how the paint was applied. I have never seen paint just come off clear enough to see the base coat. If power washing was the problem then thats not the cause either, since i only hand wash the car. i'm going to post pictures of mine later today.
 
On a sort of related note, how have all your experiences been with the clear wraps on cars? If I got only the hood wrapped after having it repainted, do you notice a difference between the hood and, say, the fenders?
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I think if people got a clear wrap early on it might just be holding the paint in place to some degree. If I personally owned a Stinger right now I would be washing it and taking through a standard car wash to see if the paint is going to fail or hold up. In such case as the Yellow.....It's not just the front but the rear as well where you are seeing the paint just fall off.
 
I think if people got a clear wrap early on it might just be holding the paint in place to some degree. If I personally owned a Stinger right now I would be washing it and taking through a standard car wash to see if the paint is going to fail or hold up. In such case as the Yellow.....It's not just the front but the rear as well where you are seeing the paint just fall off.
Yeah, I mean a wrap after my hood and fenders get repainted. Just curious about how good wrapped portions look compared to naked portions.
 
Yeah, I mean a wrap after my hood and fenders get repainted. Just curious about how good wrapped portions look compared to naked portions.

Buddy of mine in AZ got a clear bra on his '04 R32, way back when I lived out there. I didn't even know he had it on there until he told me. I've seen several with either front end or entire car and if a good shop does it, you can't tell the difference.

As far as care like wax, etc. I have no clue. All I know was he washed it and it always looked new. No pits, rock chips, etc when he sold it after 3 years for a new ride.
 
I have full front, full hood, full fenders, and side view mirrors. If you really look close, you can see the edge of the wrap, but it's something you would have to be looking at. If you are just looking at the car and not looking for imperfections, you will never see the clear bra
 
I've read through this entire thread and have to admit, I'm on the fence if this is a true issue to the extent that this thread is making it seem. God knows that just writing this i'm jinxing myself and my hood will be paintless by morning but anyway, my reasons for this are as follows:

Modern automotive paints are quite an advanced grouping of various chemicals and additives, one of which in particular, is a flex agent. As the name implies, this particular additives purpose in life is to prevent dry paint from flaking and cracking. Now, it IS possible that there was a bad batch of paint, however this would only affect one paint color and a small group of it, not a widespread variety.

Automotive manufacturers have been painting cars for a long time, the process is pretty well refined with only a few things changing here and there, but rarely is the actual paint chemical quality changed, usually just pigmentation and additions like 'flake' in varying quantities. This is also a new car so anything that occurs to it will stand out like a lighthouse beacon every time you see it.

When we think of paint chips on the car, it's usually resulting from an impact. That impact, creates a small crater which can break the paint, exposing the primer or even metal beneath it. The impact zone is where the paint loss should stop. What should not occur, is paint flaking off like an eggshell being peeled from the areas surrounding the crater. If this is what is occurring, then there is in fact a paint defect. I would encourage those of you who are concerned measure the size of the impact crater, and make sure it is not getting larger as well as visually inspect the area to see if the paint has been 'peeled away' from the crater.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I've read through this entire thread and have to admit, I'm on the fence if this is a true issue to the extent that this thread is making it seem. God knows that just writing this i'm jinxing myself and my hood will be paintless by morning but anyway, my reasons for this are as follows:

Modern automotive paints are quite an advanced grouping of various chemicals and additives, one of which in particular, is a flex agent. As the name implies, this particular additives purpose in life is to prevent dry paint from flaking and cracking. Now, it IS possible that there was a bad batch of paint, however this would only affect one paint color and a small group of it, not a widespread variety.

Automotive manufacturers have been painting cars for a long time, the process is pretty well refined with only a few things changing here and there, but rarely is the actual paint chemical quality changed, usually just pigmentation and additions like 'flake' in varying quantities. This is also a new car so anything that occurs to it will stand out like a lighthouse beacon every time you see it.

When we think of paint chips on the car, it's usually resulting from an impact. That impact, creates a small crater which can break the paint, exposing the primer or even metal beneath it. The impact zone is where the paint loss should stop. What should not occur, is paint flaking off like an eggshell being peeled from the areas surrounding the crater. If this is what is occurring, then there is in fact a paint defect. I would encourage those of you who are concerned measure the size of the impact crater, and make sure it is not getting larger as well as visually inspect the area to see if the paint has been 'peeled away' from the crater.

I hear what you are saying and I agree but these are not impact chips. I also just realized that have 3 more on my hood than I did yesterday.
also, does anyone know the size limit on uploads? i cant get pictures to attach
 
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Very interesting...will us Micro Blue owners actually be getting a letter? I thought my case was mostly resolved...Screenshot_20180606-181201.webp
 
Good morning!

Has anyone on this topic had an issue with paint coming off underneath the headlights? I own a 2018 GT1, build date of 12/17. My paint is starting to come off underneath both headlights, In the same spot on both sides. Car goes In on Monday the 11th to be looked at.
 
Good morning!

Has anyone on this topic had an issue with paint coming off underneath the headlights? I own a 2018 GT1, build date of 12/17. My paint is starting to come off underneath both headlights, In the same spot on both sides. Car goes In on Monday the 11th to be looked at.
Wow, that's really bad. What color car?
 
Good morning!

Has anyone on this topic had an issue with paint coming off underneath the headlights? I own a 2018 GT1, build date of 12/17. My paint is starting to come off underneath both headlights, In the same spot on both sides. Car goes In on Monday the 11th to be looked at.
Shoot some pictures for us.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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