So, I did a slight variation on this "fix." When I looked carefully at how all this stuff is bolted down, I concluded that the "other" bolt (to the upper right as seen in the pic above) is actually the one more likely to benefit from a forced gap between the body metal and sunroof rail metal. The front outer corner position is also plastic and can easily break if pressure is applied.
I removed the circled bolt, the "other" bolt and the next bolt toward the rear along the same side of the rails as the "other" bolt because without removing that third one, there would be no way to get any leverage to raise the rail enough to insert a washer under the "other." I used
two left-over washers I bought to fix the rear hatch rattle: 5/16ths thinner than usual zinc. I would guesstimate two of these washers are the thickness of the one in the pic above. I used two thin ones because I wanted to have the option to later add a single washer to the rearward blot position if the two thin ones at the front did not work.
Repeat for the other side of the car.
Result: silence...for the first time in more than a year. I am completely shocked...the car sounds like it did when it was brand new. No rattles, ticks squeaks, whatsoever.
Thanks to all on here who persevered and shared stories, especially
@cwatt79. I am also heartened that my theory about metal rubbing against metal was correct. The roof itself is not the issue--it's the rails. Hence why every adjustment or greasing or maritime lube did nothing (or made things worse).
Hope this is helpful to others who might want to now try this 59-cent solution to an unbelievably agonizing customer service nightmare. But be very careful with removal and replacement of the pop-up wind/bug screen...that is the tricky part of this. Hopefully some will be able to force their dealers to do this procedure (as it sounds as though some already are, but perhaps not doing it in the most effective manner).