3.3TT Cleaning the Vavles with CRC Cleaner

[Ohiocruiser]

Pretty sure nowhere in my answer did I say "BAM PROBLEM SOLVED". Oh and I would be curious when the STINGERS started getting dual injection systems.. I'll wait. You just proved my point, thanks

Hahaha....yea...you did prove alright!! Check the new 2.5 turbo engine on 2022 stinger

 

[clubsfit]

Hahaha....yea...you did prove alright!! Check the new 2.5 turbo engine on 2022 stinger

right on! Then the new engines should be good to go. I still think if you do clean periodically before they get too carboned up, you can help prolong the inevitable. Kind of same thing as gas rinsing them.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

right on! Then the new engines should be good to go. I still think if you do clean periodically before they get too carboned up, you can help prolong the inevitable. Kind of same thing as gas rinsing them.

I guess you are right, if you spraying it every other day. But if you think spraying some cleaner every 10....or even 5k miles does anything, no offense, but you clearly don't understand what the valve build up is. It is not some kind of sticky goo. It is rock solid deposit, that is, even manually hard to remove. So spraying anything over it while the engine running, is really just a fart in the wind.

 

[clubsfit]

I guess you are right, if you spraying it every other day. But if you think spraying some cleaner every 10....or even 5k miles does anything, no offense, but you clearly don't understand what the valve build up is.

I do, and we can not agree, I am not one to get offended. Been in car biz 32 years, and have seen boroscope proof, they will clean if not too far gone. Not squeeky clean, but will help keep the chunks off if consistent with it, and use a real cleaner. Not Pepsi. LOL.

 

[stoopid]

Chemical treatment needs to be done on a very regular interval from the start of the engine's life (so at the first and every following 5-10,000 miles). That's not even a guarantee depending on how hard/often the engine is being pushed. Blow-by is what exposes the backs of the valves to the most grungy of the grunge and that happens at the highest RPMs. Dumping chemicals into the engine that often is, IMO, a lot of risk being introduced for nominal long term preventative maintenance.

I think the reason Kia and other makers aren't concerned with having the backs of the valves cleaned regularly is their lab testing hasn't indicated it's an issue until much later in the engine's life, past the warranty period. It takes quite a bit of buildup to change the physics of the valves and create issues. The presence of any buildup alone isn't an indicator of issues, it's the amount accumulated over time. Most of us won't own the car long enough from new to encounter issues.

 

[ht_addict]

If you are worried about Carbon build up I would get yourself an Oil Catch Can. I use the ADDW1 v3 and it captures about a table spoon of oil between inspections. Have attached picture of its results. I also use it as the entery point for when I use the CRC cleaner on my car since it has a hole for the dipstick.

 

[Zstinger]

Those oil catch cans cause problems in extreme cold here in Minnesota we get to -20 or -30 I’ve heard of them freezing and then they blow out that’s why I decided on trying Chemicals with mobile one full synthetic and frequent oil changes every 3 to 5000

 

[ht_addict]

Chemical treatment needs to be done on a very regular interval from the start of the engine's life (so at the first and every following 5-10,000 miles). That's not even a guarantee depending on how hard/often the engine is being pushed. Blow-by is what exposes the backs of the valves to the most grungy of the grunge and that happens at the highest RPMs. Dumping chemicals into the engine that often is, IMO, a lot of risk being introduced for nominal long term preventative maintenance.

I think the reason Kia and other makers aren't concerned with having the backs of the valves cleaned regularly is their lab testing hasn't indicated it's an issue until much later in the engine's life, past the warranty period. It takes quite a bit of buildup to change the physics of the valves and create issues. The presence of any buildup alone isn't an indicator of issues, it's the amount accumulated over time. Most of us won't own the car long enough from new to encounter issues.

I think they are concerned, otherwise why are they including an extra injector behind the valves now to keep them clean?

This is simple "PREVENTATIVE" maintenance. My dealership offers the service for a couple hundred bucks for a $15 can. Seeing that I can do it myself and save on labour, why not.

 

[clubsfit]

Those oil catch cans cause problems in extreme cold here in Minnesota we get to -20 or -30 I’ve heard of them freezing and then they blow out that’s why I decided on trying Chemicals with mobile one full synthetic and frequent oil changes every 3 to 5000

I got the very simple single one that drains back into oil pan. I took it off and it is doing its job catching the blow-by without collecting stuff that can freeze. Most Euro cars have same type, (over engineered) and a bitch to change.

 

[ht_addict]

Those oil catch cans cause problems in extreme cold here in Minnesota we get to -20 or -30 I’ve heard of them freezing and then they blow out that’s why I decided on trying Chemicals with mobile one full synthetic and frequent oil changes every 3 to 5000

No issues with my catch can in the extreme cold. I'm Canadian, EH. Key thing is to empty it on a regular basis. Which is pretty much weekly for me. Usually it's 1/2 to 3/4 full when I do. Most of it is condensation.

 

[ht_addict]

I got the very simple single one that drains back into oil pan. I took it off and it is doing its job catching the blow-by without collecting stuff that can freeze. Most Euro cars have same type, (over engineered) and a bitch to change.

Personally I would prefer to not drain contaminates back into my oil pan. Like to keep it as fresh as possible at all times.

 

[GRNWNVY]

Or just pull the intake manifold off once a year and give everything a proper cleaning. If you have a compressor then you can do the walnut shell blaster method, if not then a shop vac and a set of picks and brushes with some gasoline will do the trick, just takes longer. Spraying CRC or seafoam etc. into the intake is not really effective, and can f^(k up your catalytic converters in a hurry if you aren't careful.

 

[Zstinger]

We’ve got two stinger GT is in the family so far so good with the CRc cleaner I haven’t heard about the cattle converter concerns but it’s good to know

 

[ht_addict]

We’ve got two stinger GT is in the family so far so good with the CRc cleaner I haven’t heard about the cattle converter concerns but it’s good to know

Even without using CRC, a piece of carbon could come off the valves and see the CAT. Better to use the CRC on regular basis to help minimize carbon build. What's $15 and 30min before an oil change.

 

[GRNWNVY]

The problem isn't necessarily the carbon buildup, it is the chemical itself getting onto the cells of the catalytic converter and causing it to overheat and melt the cats.. I've seen this happen several times back in my mechanic days

 

[stoopid]

I think they are concerned, otherwise why are they including an extra injector behind the valves now to keep them clean?

This is simple "PREVENTATIVE" maintenance. My dealership offers the service for a couple hundred bucks for a $15 can. Seeing that I can do it myself and save on labour, why not.

They're not the same engines, I would assume the amount of boost plays a big role in how much blowby occurs (more blowby = the more crap to accumulate on the backs of the valves), and it's likely they're pushing more into each cylinder in the 2.5T than the 3.3TT [I don't know this to be the case, but it's typically how they get decent power from single turbo 4 cylinder engines].

Dumping chemicals into the engine directly while it's running isn't something to be taken lightly. I say/know this without having even heard of the cat issue, that only adds another potential complication to what is being sold in this thread as a fairly casual maintenance task.

I would never say "don't do it", but do so knowing the minimal potential risks.

 

[GRNWNVY]

99% of the huge plumes of smoke you see pouring out of the exhaust when doing this is nothing more than the chemical itself burning up in the combustion process and primarily the liquid fuel/chemical hitting the hot catalytic converter. When the engine is idling, the PCM is delivery exactly enough fuel to keep as close to as possible a perfect Stoich. When you go and spray or dump in liquid flammable's like CRC or Seafoam etc. into the intake, the vast majority of the fuel cannot be burned and is passed in liquid form right past the exhaust valves and through the cats. The "Smoke Show' is literally smoke and mirrors. To each their own, use caution when doing this.

 

[5tinger]

I suppose periodically spraying the solvent cleaners over the intake valves is better than not.

 

[ht_addict]

They're not the same engines, I would assume the amount of boost plays a big role in how much blowby occurs (more blowby = the more crap to accumulate on the backs of the valves), and it's likely they're pushing more into each cylinder in the 2.5T than the 3.3TT [I don't know this to be the case, but it's typically how they get decent power from single turbo 4 cylinder engines].

Dumping chemicals into the engine directly while it's running isn't something to be taken lightly. I say/know this without having even heard of the cat issue, that only adds another potential complication to what is being sold in this thread as a fairly casual maintenance task.

I would never say "don't do it", but do so knowing the minimal potential risks.

View attachment 70252

Who is dumping chemicals. Instructions say 1 second bursts. Have done it twice so far.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

I suppose periodically spraying the solvent cleaners over the intake valves is better than not.

Just like trying to burn more calories to lose weight, by blinking more often. It is also better than not.