Catch Can options..what’s best for the Stinger?

[Ric 'Ochet]

Ok. So I’ve been researching this and my head is spinning. Assuming I’m keeping my car for a long time I’m looking to add a catch can. I’ve run through multiple posts regarding blow by and which cans actually seem to do a better job. I’ve seen the options available through our vendor partners, but want to make sure I’m doing what’s best for my car.
That said, baffled seems like the right choice, though I’m confused why there are dual inlet options from some, and not from others.
Mishimoto seems to make a good can, and am leaning this way. Anyone have any insight, suggestions, etc they can offer before I purchase?
Has anyone purchased and installed the NEW baffled option from Mishimoto? Any install issues?
I would like something direct fit, but again if there’s a better option I’m willing to listen.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Schroedes]

Anyone else here running one in cold ass winters? I guess my worry was the actual lines feeding the can plugging up and building pressure in the crank

 

[Hawk853]

Anyone else here running one in cold ass winters? I guess my worry was the actual lines feeding the can plugging up and building pressure in the crank

Our engine bays get pretty toasty

 

[JSolo]

How useful would this be on the mpi/gdi engines? I can understand the need on a gdi only engine to reduce carbon formation on the valves. I thought that was one of the advantages of mpi & gdi.

 

[Ric 'Ochet]

It will be fine in the winter, the water is emulsified with oil after all.
Obviously, this is an item for a maintenance minded, responsible person that checks the can on occasion.
Besides, the point of using one in cold weather is to catch condensate so it doesn’t reside in your engine.

Well I plan to check it monthly to get the baseline. I don’t want the mileage to get too far away from me without adding it on tbh (currently sitting at 9999 miles). I don’t hard drive her, but want to make sure when I kick her in the ass she goes.

 

[hummus]

How useful would this be on the mpi/gdi engines? I can understand the need on a gdi only engine to reduce carbon formation on the valves. I thought that was one of the advantages of mpi & gdi.

Regardless of whether these prevent or reduce carbon build-up, they should reduce oil accumulation on turbos, intercoolers, manifold, and all the plumbing depending on which "side" they are installed on (PCV or CCV/vent).

That's enough for me, assuming they don't introduce other problems, such as vacuum leaks or impeded crank case pressure evacuation. The former is going to be largely dependent on the installation and the quality of the supporting hardware, while the latter is likely determined by design and maybe build quality.

 

[Schroedes]

Regardless of whether these prevent or reduce carbon build-up, they should reduce oil accumulation on turbos, intercoolers, manifold, and all the plumbing depending on which "side" they are installed on (PCV or CCV/vent).

That's enough for me, assuming they don't introduce other problems, such as vacuum leaks or impeded crank case pressure evacuation. The former is going to be largely dependent on the installation and the quality of the supporting hardware, while the latter is likely determined by design and maybe build quality.

So which option in your educated opinion would best meet that criteria??

 

[hummus]

So which option in your educated opinion would best meet that criteria??

I wish I was educated enough to give a solid recommendation. The truth is I have more questions than answers. So, I don't have an answer but I can tell you how I arrived at my choice.

I found this video to be very eye opening:

Oil Catch Cans Crankcase Pressure

His measured results and conclusions are shown around the 17:50 mark, but the whole video is pretty interesting IMO. If you watch this, you should see which designs this kind of steered me away from.

From a manufacturer standpoint, I found the guy who runs Mighty Mouse to have the most compelling explanations in user forums where he's chimed in, as well as his videos. However, I didn't go with his can because I didn't want an open loop/VTA (vent to air) setup.

I went with JLT. It doesn't have a sintered bronze filter, has a decent reputation among muscle car communities, and when I called them while shopping I was very impressed with their service. When they told me they have run them on ~1000 hp setups, I believe them. They are also compact and have a dedicated Stinger PCV side kit that is a breeze to install.

I have not had any error messages, odors, visible leaks, or even any accumulation in the exit hose after 500 miles.

However, for all I know, it's even more restrictive than the sintered bronze filter design. The design wouldn't seem to be, but intuition can be really unreliable when it comes to fluid dynamics.

All things considered, I am comfortable with the risk of installing this on my otherwise stock GT. However, if I were to consider installing one on say, my wife's car (not a car person who make take notice of odd smells, noises, stumbles, etc.) I would hold off until I had more experience with it.

 

[Ric 'Ochet]

Regardless of whether these prevent or reduce carbon build-up, they should reduce oil accumulation on turbos, intercoolers, manifold, and all the plumbing depending on which "side" they are installed on (PCV or CCV/vent).

That's enough for me, assuming they don't introduce other problems, such as vacuum leaks or impeded crank case pressure evacuation. The former is going to be largely dependent on the installation and the quality of the supporting hardware, while the latter is likely determined by design and maybe build quality.

This is why I’m buying something from reputable builder versus the Amazon discount product. No offense, but when it come to my motor running, I’ll stick with proven pros. I’ll take a chance on the Amazon front splitter though lol

 

[hummus]

This is why I’m buying something from reputable builder versus the Amazon discount product. No offense, but when it come to my motor running, I’ll stick with proven pros. I’ll take a chance on the Amazon front splitter though lol

No argument here, sometimes quality does cost money. I'm not sure Mishimoto manufactures their own OCC, but they do make a very nice mount and pre-shaped hoses. Some have theorized that the cans themselves are manufactured by a third party and sold by other vendors at reduced prices, but I'm not sure what they would base that claim on. All I would recommend is to check the little turbulator flap(s) inside the can at the inlet(s) that are supposed to create a swirl in the can. If the paint starts coming off a few months down the line, that would suggest that the name brand Mishi and the no-name clones may in fact be differentiated only in label and supporting accessories. I hope this isn't the case.

And when you mean no offense, do you mean the Mann Hummel that the video refers to, or the Mishi clone? The presenter definitely did not recommend the clone based on the pressure readings, and the Mann Hummel he recommended is a very well established brand name.

Or did you mean the JLT? The interesting thing about the JLT is--I believe--fabricated in their own shop in Virginia and sold directly, as well as through Amazon and other third party merchants. The mount they made for the Stinger isn't as nice as the Mishimoto one, but the install is probably quite a bit easier since it leaves the factory hose attached to the PCV valve. Having said all that, I can't say which is better, though I consider them both equally reputable.

 

[Schroedes]

I've been looking at the JLT, it seems simpler to install as I'm debating removing the thing in the dead of winter and installing in warmer months.. is there anything different about the design on this compared to others that you like? I'm no expert on these things

 

[Schroedes]

Basically between mishimoto and jlt at this point. Again I'm not fully sold on the idea of these making a huge difference on the valves in the long run but it's one of those things of why not.. get anything out of there that you can..

 

[hummus]

I've been looking at the JLT, it seems simpler to install as I'm debating removing the thing in the dead of winter and installing in warmer months.. is there anything different about the design on this compared to others that you like? I'm no expert on these things

I'm no expert either, though I have probably spent way too much time researching and thinking about this. I'd sum it up as: the Mishimoto is prettier, especially the mount--provided the screws don't rust like they did on my clone a few years ago; it might also capture more with its 40/50 micron bronze filter. The JLT is possibly more free flowing based on the video I linked earlier, and is much easier to install and remove. As for whether the Mishi flows freely enough, or the JLT captures enough, it's anyone's guess.

In terms of difference in design, the JLT uses a honeycomb baffle design instead of a sintered bronze filter like the Mishimoto. This time around, a balance of low restriction air flow with decent filtration was more of a concern to me, and I was more confident in the JLT's baffle than the 40-50 micron filter on the Mishi design. I was concerned that the bronze filter may present some flow restriction, and the video I linked earlier really triggered my confirmation bias lol.

You may suspect the apparently more free flowing JLT may not capture as much, but when I inspected mine after 500 miles, the can collected about 1.5 teaspoons of what appeared to be nearly pure oil--no pudding-like sludge, though with some fuel odor. The exit hose was quite dry, verified with a q-tip to see if any residue made it through the can and settled on the hose, which has a low 90 deg bend on my setup where bypassed blow-by could easily have settled. Q tip was clean. Granted, this was a small sample.

If you want simplicity of install/remove, it's hard to beat the JLT. The factory line stays attached to the PCV valve, so installation is:
1. at the manifold inlet, pinch the clip, slide it back, and gently twist the hose off
2. plug the factory line into the inlet hose on the can and slide the clip in place
3. plug the outlet from the can into the manifold inlet and tighten the worm drive clamp

Installation video

Basically, insert the can between the factory PCV line and the intake manifold.

Removal is the reverse. Once you're used to this, the whole process is easily under 5 minutes, eventually under 2. For many of us, it would take longer to gather the tools than to actually do the work.

If you wish to completely remove it, one bolt holds the bracket to the car, shared with the aluminum chassis bar. You can leave the bracket and hoses mounted to the can and store it that way if you wish.

For the record, other nice cans I looked at were UPR, Radium, Elite, and Mighty Mouse. As far as I know, none of those have a pre-fabbed kit for the Stinger, so it would take some time and materials expense to experiment with mounts, hose, unions, fittings, etc. A nice installation from universal products can be fun, but it can get expensive quickly by the time you find something you're happy with.

 

[Hojae84]

Anyone else here running one in cold ass winters? I guess my worry was the actual lines feeding the can plugging up and building pressure in the crank

Yes I have had a catch can since I got the car in 2018.
No issues on my end (NYC area w frequent trips to Vermont or upstate).
Anything frozen will melt anyway once the car engine is running and the engine bay heats up.
It is probably a good idea though (or at least to lessen anxiety/concerns), to empty out the catch can a little more regularly during the winter just in case... but i haven't (only do at oil changes) and have had no problems so far

 

[AristotsirA]

I ran the SXTH Element dual can setup last year, looked nice, but the rate it accumulated water in the winter was annoying (70 mi daily commute, would be full every 3-4 days; Minnesota) so I removed it. Bought a BMS can a while ago but haven't installed it yet--still on the fence about it.

 

[BadTrainDriver]

Mishimoto OCC is a fantastic, easy to install and drain, catch can. You can even get a drain valve, which means you never have to unscrew the can. It's literally a 15 minute job to install it.

 

[Ric 'Ochet]

Mishimoto OCC is a fantastic, easy to install and drain, catch can. You can even get a drain valve, which means you never have to unscrew the can. It's literally a 15 minute job to install it.

This is the one I bought. Good to hear.

 

[Ging3rMagic]

I can vouch for the JLT CC, had one on my Challenger with the 5.7L HEMI. Different engines obviously, but I can attest it definitely catches the excess. I just made a note to empty it every oil change. Also JLT sends basically everything you need, including detailed instructions for the less mechanically inclined. Was barely a 15min job on the Chally, looks about the same if not less for the Stinger. And it's slightly cheaper, haha.

 

[ht_addict]

I use the ADD w1 v3.3.

 

[Fredman]

I also have been on the fence with getting one of these.
Is anybody aware of any recommendations, advice or input on these specifically from Kia ?
I thought years ago I was seeing a couple of responses from a Kia rep. on this site in some other unrelated threads. Or maybe I just dreamed it…
Now my 2019 GT has 31K. Hopefully nothing is mucking up too bad yet. I don’t drive it too hard, only burn non-oxy high-octane and I change synthetic oil every 3500 miles. I read somewhere that helps.

 

[ht_addict]

Never had an issue or been questioned by my dealer about my Catch Can on my Stinger or my Optima that I had. For me it's doing it's job. At 31k, you probably have a good bit of coating on the valves already. My can collects about a teaspoon or two every couple months.