Catch Can options..what’s best for the Stinger?

[Ric 'Ochet]

Ok. So I’ve been researching this and my head is spinning. Assuming I’m keeping my car for a long time I’m looking to add a catch can. I’ve run through multiple posts regarding blow by and which cans actually seem to do a better job. I’ve seen the options available through our vendor partners, but want to make sure I’m doing what’s best for my car.
That said, baffled seems like the right choice, though I’m confused why there are dual inlet options from some, and not from others.
Mishimoto seems to make a good can, and am leaning this way. Anyone have any insight, suggestions, etc they can offer before I purchase?
Has anyone purchased and installed the NEW baffled option from Mishimoto? Any install issues?
I would like something direct fit, but again if there’s a better option I’m willing to listen.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Ric 'Ochet]

Just checked after having mine on about 1000 miles and had about 1.5 oz.. less than I thought I’d have thankfully..

 

[777David]

Really enjoyed this thread. Today, I installed the SXTH dual can setup on my new 22 GT1. Its got 717 miles on it so far, and seeing all the comments here, thought it might be best to install a catch can set up. I was on the fence about which one to purchase too.
I'll check it in the next few weeks and see what has collected. When I disconnected the PCV hose to start the install, it had fresh oil in the tube so there is definitely oil cycling through.

 

[AusStinger]

1. I'm going out on a limb to guess that if you've had 6 cars with catch cans, that you change cars fairly often. If any of those cans impeded airflow through the PCV system to a large degree, you would probably have known: oil leaks, popped dipstick, etc. If, however, impedance from the can caused an increase in crank case pressure, those leaks might not have formed after thousands or tens of thousands of miles--and just because the symptoms weren't immediate doesn't mean the can did not contribute to this.

2. One question is, how much static and transient/burst pressure restriction does it take to stress the seals? I'm guessing there are very few people who would be able to answer this.

3. In the end, I agree a non-restricting system shouldn't hurt, and I personally like to reduce oil coating the turbos, intercooler, and plumbing. In the end though, as with any other modification, it's possible to hurt more than help.

Wow, I must have missed this post and forgot about this thread.

I can understand you being cautious and having concerns. I'm the same.

Just to touch on a couple of points....

1. I have had a few cars but I'm also kinda old, so I won't go too deep in to that subject.
The last car I had ( GM from new ) was 10 years old ( 108,000 KM ) when sold and had an Elite Engineering ( Categories - Page 1 - Elite Engineering ) catch can fitted for most of those years and at 100K, I did a boroscope of the inlet valves and piston tops and all looked spot on ( I wish I could find the pics but they're somewhere on a storage drive ).

2. So long as you install a GOOD unit, with minimal restrictions and don't introduce issues, there should be minimal pressure increase. If the lines removed had a check valve fitted, then the new set-up would also need one ( you could add another if it makes you feel better ).
As for your specific question, see if you can find an answer. I'd be interested to know.

3. The only way you're likely to get oil in your intercooler and plumbing is if you blow a compressor side turbo seal.

I've worked on a number of race cars and been around them for many years and they ALL have had a catch can ( of sorts ) fitted. Most catch and return to the oil system ( sump ).

As for quality, I'm big on getting something that won't let me down.
A bad catch can, hoses or installation can cause some serious issues including an engine bay fire.

I even go as far as adding heat shield insulation to the hoses but that's just me.

 

[95oRANGEcRUSH]

Running the JLT on mine and can't complain.

 

[ht_addict]

ADD W1 V3. Does a great job. Empty it every couple of months. Another benefit, when I want to run CRC Valve cleaner, I just clean the can, put back together without Dipstick installed and inject the cleaner through the dip stick hole. Gets sucked straight into the intake

 

[BrocStar]

Ok. So I’ve been researching this and my head is spinning. Assuming I’m keeping my car for a long time I’m looking to add a catch can. I’ve run through multiple posts regarding blow by and which cans actually seem to do a better job. I’ve seen the options available through our vendor partners, but want to make sure I’m doing what’s best for my car.
That said, baffled seems like the right choice, though I’m confused why there are dual inlet options from some, and not from others.
Mishimoto seems to make a good can, and am leaning this way. Anyone have any insight, suggestions, etc they can offer before I purchase?
Has anyone purchased and installed the NEW baffled option from Mishimoto? Any install issues?
I would like something direct fit, but again if there’s a better option I’m willing to listen.

Thanks everyone.

Ordered mine and installing next week. will keep posted.

 

[BrocStar]

If the check valve a diaphragm design, you may want to inspect it from time to time. No real harm done if it gets stuck open; then it's as if it wasn't there. If it gets stuck closed or partially closed, it can impede the flow of positive pressure from your crank case. That was the original problem they were trying to solve, and the EGR concept is what got us into this mess in the first place

What would happen if the positive pressure was impeded? Would we see an engine failure or a sputter?

 

[BrocStar]

I wish I was educated enough to give a solid recommendation. The truth is I have more questions than answers. So, I don't have an answer but I can tell you how I arrived at my choice.

I found this video to be very eye opening:

Oil Catch Cans Crankcase Pressure

His measured results and conclusions are shown around the 17:50 mark, but the whole video is pretty interesting IMO. If you watch this, you should see which designs this kind of steered me away from.

From a manufacturer standpoint, I found the guy who runs Mighty Mouse to have the most compelling explanations in user forums where he's chimed in, as well as his videos. However, I didn't go with his can because I didn't want an open loop/VTA (vent to air) setup.

I went with JLT. It doesn't have a sintered bronze filter, has a decent reputation among muscle car communities, and when I called them while shopping I was very impressed with their service. When they told me they have run them on ~1000 hp setups, I believe them. They are also compact and have a dedicated Stinger PCV side kit that is a breeze to install.

I have not had any error messages, odors, visible leaks, or even any accumulation in the exit hose after 500 miles.

However, for all I know, it's even more restrictive than the sintered bronze filter design. The design wouldn't seem to be, but intuition can be really unreliable when it comes to fluid dynamics.

All things considered, I am comfortable with the risk of installing this on my otherwise stock GT. However, if I were to consider installing one on say, my wife's car (not a car person who make take notice of odd smells, noises, stumbles, etc.) I would hold off until I had more experience with it.

This is a very interested video and makes one think!! I will be emailing MIshimoto to see if there baffled can increased crank case pressure and to what degree. We will see if they respond

 

[ht_addict]

I ran a Mishimoto catch can with the bronze filter in my Optima Hybrid for 7yrs and never had an issue. I would say that change in crank case pressure when using a OCC is negligible when it comes to the specs and if too high you would definitely get an engine light.