Catch Can options..what’s best for the Stinger?

[Ric 'Ochet]

Ok. So I’ve been researching this and my head is spinning. Assuming I’m keeping my car for a long time I’m looking to add a catch can. I’ve run through multiple posts regarding blow by and which cans actually seem to do a better job. I’ve seen the options available through our vendor partners, but want to make sure I’m doing what’s best for my car.
That said, baffled seems like the right choice, though I’m confused why there are dual inlet options from some, and not from others.
Mishimoto seems to make a good can, and am leaning this way. Anyone have any insight, suggestions, etc they can offer before I purchase?
Has anyone purchased and installed the NEW baffled option from Mishimoto? Any install issues?
I would like something direct fit, but again if there’s a better option I’m willing to listen.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Hawk853]

Seems like the Mishimoto is the best for the money. It’s only on the PCV side, baffled, with a brass diffuser and has molded lines for best fitment.

The crank case breather side isn’t creating much oil, or water vapor condensate.
I have two separate cans and get less than a teaspoon on the breather side between oil changes. I get a considerable amount of oil (and water sludge during cold weather) on the PCV side.

I like my setup, but the Mishimoto would have been a more savvy purchase at half the price of the dual SxthElement.
NGT uses Mishimoto cans, doesn’t have the molded lines and the single SxthElement can is similar in design with a brass diffuser, but again no molded lines.

The ADD can is the cheapest design without a brass diffuser, just a baffle. (I bought the 2 into 1 and decided it didn’t deserve a place on my car).

Someone else may be able to comment on the Voodoo magic used in the BMS closed stystem.
For the winter time this can wasn’t an option for me since I want to capture the water vapor and not send it back into the oil system to sludge up. If I lived someplace warm all year round it wouldn’t be an issue.

 

[Ric 'Ochet]

Seems like the Mishimoto is the best for the money. It’s only on the PCV side, baffled, with a brass diffuser and has molded lines for best fitment.

The crank case breather side isn’t creating much oil, or water vapor condensate.
I have two separate cans and get less than a teaspoon on the breather side between oil changes. I get a considerable amount of oil (and water sludge during cold weather) on the PCV side.

I like my setup, but the Mishimoto would have been a more savvy purchase at half the price of the dual SxthElement.
NGT uses Mishimoto cans, doesn’t have the molded lines and the single SxthElement can is similar in design with a brass diffuser, but again no molded lines.

The ADD can is the cheapest design without a brass diffuser, just a baffle.

Someone else may be able to comment on the Voodoo magic used in the BMS closed stystem.
For the winter time this can wasn’t an option for me since I want to capture the water vapor and not send it back into the oil system to sludge up. If I lived someplace warm all year round it wouldn’t be an issue.

So living in Chicago, then sounds like the Mishimoto would be a good choice. To be clear it’s not about the cheapest for me especially when it comes to something like potential engine failure or detonation issues lol.

 

[Hawk853]

So living in Chicago, then sounds like the Mishimoto would be a good choice. To be clear it’s not about the cheapest for me especially when it comes to something like potential engine failure or detonation issues lol.

Yeah, you’ll see that mud in the winter for sure.
I’m very happy with my dual SxthElement, but the Mishimoto is probably 95% (or better) as effective and less of a hose routing spaghetti mess.

Also, I wish I could give credit to the member who originally posted it, but my old oil filter o-rings are the perfect replacements for my catch cans.

 

[djerickd]

JLT looks nice

JLT 3.0 Oil Separator (2018-2020 Kia Stinger GT 3.3L TT Passenger Side)

www.jlttruecoldair.com

 

[87and66]

my $25 amazon catch can works great. Its pretty much an exact copy of the Mishimoto for 1/10 the price. No oil in the outlet hose when I swabbed it with a q tip. Collects a good bit of oil

 

[hummus]

Some food for thought: I don't believe anyone has conclusive evidence that a catch can helps. There is plenty of evidence that they "work" at condensing blow by fumes, but as far as I know, nothing proving that they prevent build-up.

Since we don't know if they help, in my opinion, the first priority would be to choose one that does not detract the car's EGR subsystem. You can be sure Kia/Hyundai spent a pretty penny engineering this engine's ability to maintain proper crankcase pressure, and the last thing you want to do is impede that with an add-on that might not actually have any material benefit to offset its potential penalty.

As always, proceed with caution and assume there is no free lunch.

my $25 amazon catch can works great. Its pretty much an exact copy of the Mishimoto for 1/10 the price. No oil in the outlet hose when I swabbed it with a q tip. Collects a good bit of oil

I had pretty good results with a pair of these on my old 2.0t. However, after running them for a while, I did notice some finish problems: the little flaps that redirect the incoming air had all of their paint stripped off and started rusting. Also had rust on the screws mounting the can to the bracket. I noticed these problems in about 10 months to a year.

JLT looks nice

JLT 3.0 Oil Separator (2018-2020 Kia Stinger GT 3.3L TT Passenger Side)

www.jlttruecoldair.com

I like the JLT as well. I showed a close up of my adaptation using this as a CCV can in another post. I am still testing these out, but apparently they are decently popular in the domestic muscle car community. And like I mentioned in that other thread, great service from these folks.

It's possible to make a very tidy dual JLT can setup with very short plumbing and minimal clutter. Here is mine, with a modified PCV side mount and custom CCV. I also run a 0-100 psi UPR check valve on the PCV can:

 

[ChaneRZ]

I think catch can only slows down the process.

 

[General_Vodka]

it won't get rid of every drop of oil but it does catch a lot. Mine catches a bunch. For the best look get the sxth dual kit.

 

[AusStinger]

Some food for thought: I don't believe anyone has conclusive evidence that a catch can helps. There is plenty of evidence that they "work" at condensing blow by fumes, but as far as I know, nothing proving that they prevent build-up.

Since we don't know if they help, in my opinion, the first priority would be to choose one that does not detract the car's EGR subsystem. You can be sure Kia/Hyundai spent a pretty penny engineering this engine's ability to maintain proper crankcase pressure, and the last thing you want to do is impede that with an add-on that might not actually have any material benefit to offset its potential penalty.

By virtue of the fact that oil remains in the catch can, one can only assume that the oil would have otherwise wound up on the back of your inlet valves and on the top of your pistons thus causing carbon build-up. Isn't that proof enough ?

And so long as you don't introduce any real "restrictions" into the PCV system, there can be no harm.

I've had GOOD catch cans, properly installed, on the last 6 cars I've owned ( all modified ) and never had an issue.

Cheap or incorrect catch cans and poorly installed ones ( even the hose quality / routing ) can pose an engine bay fire risk, but if done properly, it's all good.

But as with all subjects, you decide.

 

[hummus]

By virtue of the fact that oil remains in the catch can, one can only assume that the oil would have otherwise wound up on the back of your inlet valves and on the top of your pistons thus causing carbon build-up. Isn't that proof enough ?

From what I've observed, the condensate caught in the can is a combination of oil, fuel, and apparently water. Any fuel missed by an inefficient or non-existent can is arguably harmless. Some of the water forms there as a result of heat cycles, but any water component of the blow by is vaporous, and probably harmless.

As for the oil component, if the can were not present, theoretically, some of it could form deposits on the valves, and per the original intent of the system, some of it is combusted and subsequently evacuates through the exhaust, with the EPA hoping it is neutralized by the pollution control mechanisms.

The question is, how much oil vapor needs to get through to form deposits? If the oil vapor is coming through at let's say 500 ppm without a can, and 30 ppm with an extremely efficient can, is that 30 ppm going to leave fewer deposits on the valves than the 500 ppm? Maybe, maybe not. 30 ppm may be more than enough to deposit just as much, in the same way that you can blow out a candle with either a gentle puff or a tornado--neither is more effective, because both are more than enough to extinguish a small flame. Without a hugely expensive controlled test, who knows how much oil contamination it takes for deposits to form?

I agree that reducing the contamination level can't hurt though, as long as the crank case is still able to evacuate as designed.

I'm going out on a limb to guess that if you've had 6 cars with catch cans, that you change cars fairly often. If any of those cans impeded airflow through the PCV system to a large degree, you would probably have known: oil leaks, popped dipstick, etc. If, however, impedance from the can caused an increase in crank case pressure, those leaks might not have formed after thousands or tens of thousands of miles--and just because the symptoms weren't immediate doesn't mean the can did not contribute to this.

One question is, how much static and transient/burst pressure restriction does it take to stress the seals? I'm guessing there are very few people who would be able to answer this.

In the end, I agree a non-restricting system shouldn't hurt, and I personally like to reduce oil coating the turbos, intercooler, and plumbing. In the end though, as with any other modification, it's possible to hurt more than help.

 

[General_Vodka]

From what I've observed, the condensate caught in the can is a combination of oil, fuel, and apparently water. Any fuel missed by an inefficient or non-existent can is arguably harmless. Some of the water forms there as a result of heat cycles, but any water component of the blow by is vaporous, and probably harmless.

As for the oil component, if the can were not present, theoretically, some of it could form deposits on the valves, and per the original intent of the system, some of it is combusted and subsequently evacuates through the exhaust, with the EPA hoping it is neutralized by the pollution control mechanisms.

The question is, how much oil vapor needs to get through to form deposits? If the oil vapor is coming through at let's say 500 ppm without a can, and 30 ppm with an extremely efficient can, is that 30 ppm going to leave fewer deposits on the valves than the 500 ppm? Maybe, maybe not. 30 ppm may be more than enough to deposit just as much, in the same way that you can blow out a candle with either a gentle puff or a tornado--neither is more effective, because both are more than enough to extinguish a small flame. Without a hugely expensive controlled test, who knows how much oil contamination it takes for deposits to form?

I agree that reducing the contamination level can't hurt though, as long as the crank case is still able to evacuate as designed.

I'm going out on a limb to guess that if you've had 6 cars with catch cans, that you change cars fairly often. If any of those cans impeded airflow through the PCV system to a large degree, you would probably have known: oil leaks, popped dipstick, etc. If, however, impedance from the can caused an increase in crank case pressure, those leaks might not have formed after thousands or tens of thousands of miles--and just because the symptoms weren't immediate doesn't mean the can did not contribute to this.

One question is, how much static and transient/burst pressure restriction does it take to stress the seals? I'm guessing there are very few people who would be able to answer this.

In the end, I agree a non-restricting system shouldn't hurt, and I personally like to reduce oil coating the turbos, intercooler, and plumbing. In the end though, as with any other modification, it's possible to hurt more than help.

They do have a check valve to prevent boost from getting into the can. I did do a Blackstone oil test on the cat h can oil and it showed fuel oil water silica and some metal content.

 

[hummus]

They do have a check valve to prevent boost from getting into the can. I did do a Blackstone oil test on the cat h can oil and it showed fuel oil water silica and some metal content.

If the check valve a diaphragm design, you may want to inspect it from time to time. No real harm done if it gets stuck open; then it's as if it wasn't there. If it gets stuck closed or partially closed, it can impede the flow of positive pressure from your crank case. That was the original problem they were trying to solve, and the EGR concept is what got us into this mess in the first place

 

[Schroedes]

So get a catch can or no?? Lol.. I'm still on the fence wit 5000 miles on my Stinger.. What's the best option for a guy that lives in Minnesota? Winters can be cold af..

 

[AusStinger]

IMO, If you're planning on keeping the car, yes. If you're planning on selling in the near future, no.

With that said, I have no idea what complications freezing cold winters have on a catch can.

 

[Schroedes]

I'll keep this thing at least 4-5 years. I drive it basically on just the weekends and it's hard to find info on catch cans sitting around in winters..

 

[General_Vodka]

I'll keep this thing at least 4-5 years. I drive it basically on just the weekends and it's hard to find info on catch cans sitting around in winters..

i have driven mine up in the mountains a couple of times in the winter. The water vapor does freeze in the catch can but the filter prevents it from getting into the lines. Don't recall any issues.

 

[Ric 'Ochet]

I purchased the Mishimoto one. Don’t want to take any chances. As for the cold I assume it’s fine left year round, but would remove if it makes sense in the winter.

 

[AusStinger]

You could always multi use a stubbie holder as a catch can blanket.

 

[Hawk853]

I purchased the Mishimoto one. Don’t want to take any chances. As for the cold I assume it’s fine left year round, but would remove if it makes sense in the winter.

It will be fine in the winter, the water is emulsified with oil after all.
Obviously, this is an item for a maintenance minded, responsible person that checks the can on occasion.
Besides, the point of using one in cold weather is to catch condensate so it doesn’t reside in your engine.