car went to zero boost, would not boost anything

rtv900

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Really hoping somebody can explain what happened to me.
2022 3.3 liter
So I pulled over today to send somebody a text, probably sat for 1 minute tops, then once I sent it I gunned it back into traffic up to highway speed.
The car all of a sudden would not boost a single psi of air. There's no question is was not a gauge error, I could feel there was no power at all.
I used paddle shift mode and held it in multiple gears and went WOT and nothing.
I was in sport mode the whole time.
The car just locked out the boost somehow.
Once I made a stop and shut off the car and started it again it was back to normal.
Can anyone explain what on earth happened and how this car prevents boost? I mean the exhaust was still going through the hot side.
How does it not make boost at WOT? Does the ECU just dump everything to waste gate or something?
Plus, more importantly, why did it go into this limp mode?
No check engine lights of any kind btw
 
Really hoping somebody can explain what happened to me.
2022 3.3 liter
So I pulled over today to send somebody a text, probably sat for 1 minute tops, then once I sent it I gunned it back into traffic up to highway speed.
The car all of a sudden would not boost a single psi of air. There's no question is was not a gauge error, I could feel there was no power at all.
I used paddle shift mode and held it in multiple gears and went WOT and nothing.
I was in sport mode the whole time.
The car just locked out the boost somehow.
Once I made a stop and shut off the car and started it again it was back to normal.
Can anyone explain what on earth happened and how this car prevents boost? I mean the exhaust was still going through the hot side.
How does it not make boost at WOT? Does the ECU just dump everything to waste gate or something?
Plus, more importantly, why did it go into this limp mode?
No check engine lights of any kind btw
That will happen if the ecu sees a boost spike. Do you have any mods?
 
So I pulled over today to send somebody a text, probably sat for 1 minute tops
Well, that would be a good way to get into limp mode. On my previous cars it only happened in pretty warm temps, but if you were accelerating with a lot of boost right before, then pulled over (where there's no airflow) the car would definitely get a lot hotter. Seems odd to be going into limp mode at this time of year though.
 
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No mods at all, bone stock.
And yeah I get that sitting makes the intercooler just get hot and then gunning it will lead to detonation but I was only sitting for a minute at most and like you said, it was maybe 55 out or something, plus I wasn't driving real hard prior to that.
My last car was a turbo too and I never experienced something like this.
I mean I have to figure it was the ECU that did that but I have still don't understand how it is pulling all boost?
Does it do that with the wastegate?
I don't see any other way.
 
Is this the first time you've brought this up? Because I read this same thing happening yesterday.
 
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Check your pipes. Might have a boost leak from a loose bit between the turbos and intake. Also the boy may be stuck open maybe
 
First time I brought this up.

Yeah I checked all the boot straps and everything looks perfect, plus since it was restarted it works perfectly again, 100% fine.
So I feel like it wasn't anything mechanical at all, it was the ECU somehow cutting out boost, which I get except for the fact that I feel like the conditions were not extreme at all and if it's going into limp mode when I stop for 1 minute in 55 degree weather what on earth is going to happen when it's 95 out and I hit a 2 minute traffic light?
Just taken aback that what I did could possibly throw a full out limp mode that wouldn't reset until I shut down and restarted. I'd be annoyed as hell if I was on some busy highway where I couldn't pull over for a half hour or something. The car was such a dog it was unreal. Felt like a 1.8 liter NA motor with three 250 pound passengers.
 
First time I brought this up.

Yeah I checked all the boot straps and everything looks perfect, plus since it was restarted it works perfectly again, 100% fine.
So I feel like it wasn't anything mechanical at all, it was the ECU somehow cutting out boost, which I get except for the fact that I feel like the conditions were not extreme at all and if it's going into limp mode when I stop for 1 minute in 55 degree weather what on earth is going to happen when it's 95 out and I hit a 2 minute traffic light?
Just taken aback that what I did could possibly throw a full out limp mode that wouldn't reset until I shut down and restarted. I'd be annoyed as hell if I was on some busy highway where I couldn't pull over for a half hour or something. The car was such a dog it was unreal. Felt like a 1.8 liter NA motor with three 250 pound passengers.
It's the traction/stability control system. I know the no boost feeling, it sucks. Normally if I'm in sport mode I don't get any issues, but there has been a few times here it has started acting up so I turned off traction and stability. Drove it for a minute and then turned them back on. No issues for the rest of the day.
 
ahhhh, I did in fact pull over onto a big shoulder where there was tons of crap like stones and debris. I guess I might have spun a bit pulling out.
Damn, that sucks if it does that just slipping the tires for a second.
Doesn't that mean in winter time it's going to be hitting limp mode basically any time there's snow?
Mine is AWD also btw
 
Doesn't that mean in winter time it's going to be hitting limp mode basically any time there's snow?
Hopefully. :P Why would you want to peel out with boost on snow/ice?
 
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Hopefully. :p Why would you want to peel out with boost on snow/ice?
I'm not saying I'd peel out, I just mean if wheel slippage causes this limp mode there will be slippage on snow to some degree. I don't want it going into limp mode for the rest of my drive if I happen to slip the wheels in the first 5 minutes.
I just don't get what limp mode has to do with the ECU detecting wheel slippage.
 
I'm not saying I'd peel out, I just mean if wheel slippage causes this limp mode there will be slippage on snow to some degree. I don't want it going into limp mode for the rest of my drive if I happen to slip the wheels in the first 5 minutes.
I just don't get what limp mode has to do with the ECU detecting wheel slippage.
Normally if it starts acting up and you let off before it starts to hard cut then you will be rewarded by it letting you keep your ability to build boost. If you try and power through then it just hard cuts and you lose your right to boost. Then it makes you go into the bad driver corner and write "I will not attempt to have fun with my car" over and over until you have learned your lesson.
 
Yeah I guess I just need to get a better feel for this thing. I suppose I'll find out soon enough how it works on snow
 
No mods at all, bone stock.
And yeah I get that sitting makes the intercooler just get hot and then gunning it will lead to detonation but I was only sitting for a minute at most and like you said, it was maybe 55 out or something, plus I wasn't driving real hard prior to that.
My last car was a turbo too and I never experienced something like this.
I mean I have to figure it was the ECU that did that but I have still don't understand how it is pulling all boost?
Does it do that with the wastegate?
I don't see any other way.
I also purchased a 2022 Kia stinger GT two. About two months ago when the car was new it only had 45 miles on it no mods, same thing happened to me it was cold outside but the car still should not have done that. No CEL codes it just went into zero boost. I stopped started the car back and it was fine. When the car had about 350 miles on it, it did it again. I reset and decided I would take it to the dealership for troubleshooting. I scheduled an appointment and went to the dealership they checked it out and they could not find any codes as it has a soft code and had reset itself. Luck was on my side and as I left the dealership and I got about halfway home it did it again. Now that is the third time it has done it. I turned around and drove back to the dealership without shutting the car off got the service manager and he and I went for a drive and he verified that it was producing zero boost He took it into the service garage and check the code and the 00 35 code I believe was present and they kept the car and gave me a loaner. After about a week they called me and said it had been fixed, I asked what the problem was and they said that they contacted Kia and there is an issue that debris sometimes is in the B.O.V From the manufacturing process. They checked and said that there was debris in one of the hoses and they cleaned it out. The car now has about 2700 miles on it and it has not done it sense. So I went ahead and installed my JB4 and secondary ark Downpipes from my previous stinger that I had kept. I also put the velossa tech big mouth snorkels on it and so far have not had any issues.
 
that's awesome that it happened when you left the dealer.
good write up. It hasn't happened on mine since and I'm at 13k miles now.
I didn't think it could have anything to do with the traction control system like some people were suggesting in this thread.
Do you happen to know where the BOV is? Plus, it's probably a bypass valve right? Re-circulating back into the intake?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
that's awesome that it happened when you left the dealer.
good write up. It hasn't happened on mine since and I'm at 13k miles now.
I didn't think it could have anything to do with the traction control system like some people were suggesting in this thread.
Do you happen to know where the BOV is? Plus, it's probably a bypass valve right? Re-circulating back into the intake?
Correct it was the bypass hose on the driver side. the only reason I know is that was the one was because when I was inspecting a few days after I got the car back the dealership actually left the hose clamp loose on that tube fortunately it did not blow off I just slid the clamp back up in the place and took a picture. After reading over the technicians notes very carefully he had stated that when the hoses are assembled on the B.O.V. valve if they are not pushed on straight and are slightly at an angle it will shave the inside of the hose and cause the blockage. It makes very much sense after the fact because if you have a blockage the excess boost when you release the throttle has nowhere to go
 
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Correct it was the bypass hose on the driver side. the only reason I know is that was the one was because when I was inspecting a few days after I got the car back the dealership actually left the hose clamp loose on that tube fortunately it did not blow off I just slid the clamp back up in the place and took a picture. After reading over the technicians notes very carefully he had stated that when the hoses are assembled on the B.O.V. valve if they are not pushed on straight and are slightly at an angle it will shave the inside of the hose and cause the blockage. It makes very much sense after the fact because if you have a blockage the excess boost when you release the throttle has nowhere to go
that's awesome that it happened when you left the dealer.
good write up. It hasn't happened on mine since and I'm at 13k miles now.
I didn't think it could have anything to do with the traction control system like some people were suggesting in this thread.
Do you happen to know where the BOV is? Plus, it's probably a bypass valve right? Re-circulating back into the intake?
Also just a note, sometimes you will have reduced power when slippage is detected this is only momentary and the traction system is taking over and this has absolutely nothing to do with the boost control system’s normal functionality, Anyone tells you otherwise they are just completely wrong.
 
Seems that there are more than a few posts about no boost on 2022's. Some are an overboost condition going into limp mode. Maybe the 2022's are more sensitive?
 
Seems that there are more than a few posts about no boost on 2022's. Some are an overboost condition going into limp mode. Maybe the 2022's are more sensitive?
Could the new exhaust cause over-boost when it's open?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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