car went to zero boost, would not boost anything

[Devin]

When my car loses traction all power is cut, not just boost. If I gun it leaving work my wheels will slip everytime where the driveway ramp meets the road and I lose all acceleration for about a second give or take.

 

[rpoffen]

When my car loses traction all power is cut, not just boost. If I gun it leaving work my wheels will slip everytime where the driveway ramp meets the road and I lose all acceleration for about a second give or take.

Yeah, but it should just be momentary, after regaining traction, it should return to normal and no codes stored.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

When my car loses traction all power is cut, not just boost. If I gun it leaving work my wheels will slip everytime where the driveway ramp meets the road and I lose all acceleration for about a second give or take.

that's a TC issue, consider not gunning it in that specific spot.

 

[rtv900]

When my car loses traction all power is cut, not just boost. If I gun it leaving work my wheels will slip everytime where the driveway ramp meets the road and I lose all acceleration for about a second give or take.

Right, we are all familiar with a traction control power cut, but this issue is 1000% different.
TC power cut is for a fraction of a second.
This power cut was for the entire duration of the drive until the car was shut off and re-started. And it was more than just boost IMO. This car still has a 3.3 liter turbo or not, and even with no boost 3.3 liters should still have enough power to drive reasonably.
When mine tripped out it was like a 2.0 NA at best

No traction control system will, nor should cut power permanently. Hell, if it snowed you wouldn't make it 1/8th mile before being stuck in limp mode for the rest of your drive.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Right, we are all familiar with a traction control power cut, but this issue is 1000% different.
TC power cut is for a fraction of a second.
This power cut was for the entire duration of the drive until the car was shut off and re-started. And it was more than just boost IMO. This car still has a 3.3 liter turbo or not, and even with no boost 3.3 liters should still have enough power to drive reasonably.
When mine tripped out it was like a 2.0 NA at best

No traction control system will, nor should cut power permanently. Hell, if it snowed you wouldn't make it 1/8th mile before being stuck in limp mode for the rest of your drive.

Yep, thats the typical overboost scenario. I imagine that the reason it feels so underpowered after the overboost is because the turbos then act like flow restrictors instead of adding pressure, as well as the ECU is effectively throwing the car into safe mode when doing so, so I wouldn't even be surprised if it added a temporary limiter of like 80mph or something like that till the car is restarted.

 

[Devin]

Right, we are all familiar with a traction control power cut, but this issue is 1000% different.
TC power cut is for a fraction of a second.
This power cut was for the entire duration of the drive until the car was shut off and re-started. And it was more than just boost IMO. This car still has a 3.3 liter turbo or not, and even with no boost 3.3 liters should still have enough power to drive reasonably.
When mine tripped out it was like a 2.0 NA at best

No traction control system will, nor should cut power permanently. Hell, if it snowed you wouldn't make it 1/8th mile before being stuck in limp mode for the rest of your drive.

I get that, but not sure why some folks are reporting that losing traction causes limp mode. Are you saying that it is ongoing traction loss that causes it?

 

[Devin]

that's a TC issue, consider not gunning it in that specific spot.

Nah, it is part of the fun.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

I get that, but not sure why some folks are reporting that losing traction causes limp mode. Are you saying that it is ongoing traction loss that causes it?

Losing traction causes temporary limp mode. Like that post stated, you would have the power get killed till TC feels the car is under control (usually less than a second) then you have full power again. IN your case, it seems to be an overboost issue, which seems to be incredibly common on the 22's, I believe its caused by the 22's getting a new/refined turbo, causing them to make more boost, faster, while the ECUs have the same limits as the older cars, so the safety net is being triggered more often. With an overboost issue, you will not get full power again until you restart the car, as thats how the safety system works.
The known solution of course is to either get a JB4 with EWG wires or get a dedicated ECU tune. (Edit - EWG wires, not fuel wires)

Also, These cars will not engage LC if the wheel is turned more than 10 degrees in either direction, meaning that the car knows if you risk putting it into a wall/car/whatever.

what you can try is leaving your little dip area with all the safety's turned off (Hold the TC button for 10 seconds) and see if it still cuts power. (it will if your wheel is turned at ALL, so make sure its straight when you hammer it) What you will have to be aware of however is that of course, you will be in complete control if it doesn't cut it, meaning you WILL more than likely get sideways, even on stock power, so be prepared to counter that, even if its just taking your foot off the gas.

All I ask is that if you do try this, please make sure you have enough time and room to not potentially harm anyone else on the road. Maybe test it in a wide open area first? better to look like an idiot then to crash like an idiot.

 

[rpoffen]

Losing traction causes temporary limp mode. Like that post stated, you would have the power get killed till TC feels the car is under control (usually less than a second) then you have full power again. IN your case, it seems to be an overboost issue, which seems to be incredibly common on the 22's, I believe its caused by the 22's getting a new/refined turbo, causing them to make more boost, faster, while the ECUs have the same limits as the older cars, so the safety net is being triggered more often. With an overboost issue, you will not get full power again until you restart the car, as thats how the safety system works.
The known solution of course is to either get a JB4 with fuel wires or get a dedicated ECU tune.

Actually, with the JB4, you need the EWG wires to help solve overboost, not the fuel wires.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Actually, with the JB4, you need the EWG wires to help solve overboost, not the fuel wires.

Yep, those ones. whoops.

 

[rtv900]

I get that, but not sure why some folks are reporting that losing traction causes limp mode. Are you saying that it is ongoing traction loss that causes it?

no I'm not saying that at all, somebody way earlier in the thread said that TC can cause it, but I don't agree with that in this context. The context being a permanent limp mode until restart.
It happened to me on a totally dry day, I pulled over to text somebody for 30 seconds and then hammered it to get back up to highway speed fast. I did slip a bit on stones, but still, this was NOT a TC event, I was in slug mode for 15 minutes and was getting passed by prius's with my foot totally on the floor.
Stopped for some beers, re-started and back to 100%.

I did not know my 22 got a new turbo, but I certainly agree the boost comes in insane quick. I'm coming from a 16 STI and the spool rate on this thing is on a whole different level.

 

[keplaffintech]

2022 RWD 3.3TT here, experienced this just last night. Completely stock drivetrain and a very cold night.

Not sure exactly when it happened, possibly during a WOT pull. Noticed that the car was down on power, checked the boost gauges and 0 boost at WOT.

No CEL or codes. Fixed on a restart of the engine.

Could it be the cold intake temps causing boost to climb too fast for the ECU?

 

[AdrianG]

2022 RWD 3.3TT here, experienced this just last night. Completely stock drivetrain and a very cold night.

Not sure exactly when it happened, possibly during a WOT pull. Noticed that the car was down on power, checked the boost gauges and 0 boost at WOT.

No CEL or codes. Fixed on a restart of the engine.

Could it be the cold intake temps causing boost to climb too fast for the ECU?

The 21 & 22 model years are apparently prone to setting an "overboost" code (CEL may or may not be set), simply seems to be overly sensitive ECU programming from the factory. An ECU tune or a JB4 with EWG on the right settings will solve the problem. Pretty lame, but it is what it is.

 

[DoctorStiches]

I will be frampa and say it can always be a loose coupler on thw turbo system. Check your intercooler piping

 

[Diggler1101]

Losing traction causes temporary limp mode. Like that post stated, you would have the power get killed till TC feels the car is under control (usually less than a second) then you have full power again. IN your case, it seems to be an overboost issue, which seems to be incredibly common on the 22's, I believe its caused by the 22's getting a new/refined turbo, causing them to make more boost, faster, while the ECUs have the same limits as the older cars, so the safety net is being triggered more often. With an overboost issue, you will not get full power again until you restart the car, as thats how the safety system works.
The known solution of course is to either get a JB4 with EWG wires or get a dedicated ECU tune. (Edit - EWG wires, not fuel wires)

Also, These cars will not engage LC if the wheel is turned more than 10 degrees in either direction, meaning that the car knows if you risk putting it into a wall/car/whatever.

what you can try is leaving your little dip area with all the safety's turned off (Hold the TC button for 10 seconds) and see if it still cuts power. (it will if your wheel is turned at ALL, so make sure its straight when you hammer it) What you will have to be aware of however is that of course, you will be in complete control if it doesn't cut it, meaning you WILL more than likely get sideways, even on stock power, so be prepared to counter that, even if its just taking your foot off the gas.

All I ask is that if you do try this, please make sure you have enough time and room to not potentially harm anyone else on the road. Maybe test it in a wide open area first? better to look like an idiot then to crash like an idiot.

I have a 2022 GT 2 awd and this same thing happens to me as well. I have AEM intakes and MBRP catback. Sounds like possible overboosting then cuts power for the remainder of the trip. So are you saying the simple fix for this is buying the JB4 with ewg wires? How does this fix it out of curiosity?

Thanks,

 

[rpoffen]

I have a 2022 GT 2 awd and this same thing happens to me as well. I have AEM intakes and MBRP catback. Sounds like possible overboosting then cuts power for the remainder of the trip. So are you saying the simple fix for this is buying the JB4 with ewg wires? How does this fix it out of curiosity?

Thanks,

I don’t have a 2022, but the common theme on these forums is that they are more sensitive to overboost than previous years. They might have tweaked the tuning in the 2022.
If it is stock and does it, then Kia needs to fix it. I thought I read on a thread that they are aware of the issue but didn’t have a fix yet.
A jb4 with ewg wires (not the fuel wires) can help solve it since you can tune the wastegate to tune down the boost.

 

[Diggler1101]

I don’t have a 2022, but the common theme on these forums is that they are more sensitive to overboost than previous years. They might have tweaked the tuning in the 2022.
If it is stock and does it, then Kia needs to fix it. I thought I read on a thread that they are aware of the issue but didn’t have a fix yet.
A jb4 with ewg wires (not the fuel wires) can help solve it since you can tune the wastegate to tune down the boost.

I just ordered a JB4 but if it’s over boosting wouldn’t it be counter productive to get the jb4 cause I thought the point of the jb4 is to increase power and one of the main ways to do that is by increasing boost?

 

[rpoffen]

I just ordered a JB4 but if it’s over boosting wouldn’t it be counter productive to get the jb4 cause I thought the point of the jb4 is to increase power and one of the main ways to do that is by increasing boost?

Yes, but the jb4 increases boost by faking out the signal that goes to the ECU. Tells it there is less boost than there really is.
With the ewg wires, it can better control the wastegate and you can tune it in the app.
On pre-22’s you can get into overboost with catless primaries and secondary’s because it opens up the exhaust so much, using a jb4 helps correct it.
However, if your car is basically stock, you should have Kia look at it, it shouldn’t do it and it is still under warranty.

 

[Jason S]

I also purchased a 2022 Kia stinger GT two. About two months ago when the car was new it only had 45 miles on it no mods, same thing happened to me it was cold outside but the car still should not have done that. No CEL codes it just went into zero boost. I stopped started the car back and it was fine. When the car had about 350 miles on it, it did it again. I reset and decided I would take it to the dealership for troubleshooting. I scheduled an appointment and went to the dealership they checked it out and they could not find any codes as it has a soft code and had reset itself. Luck was on my side and as I left the dealership and I got about halfway home it did it again. Now that is the third time it has done it. I turned around and drove back to the dealership without shutting the car off got the service manager and he and I went for a drive and he verified that it was producing zero boost He took it into the service garage and check the code and the 00 35 code I believe was present and they kept the car and gave me a loaner. After about a week they called me and said it had been fixed, I asked what the problem was and they said that they contacted Kia and there is an issue that debris sometimes is in the B.O.V From the manufacturing process. They checked and said that there was debris in one of the hoses and they cleaned it out. The car now has about 2700 miles on it and it has not done it sense. So I went ahead and installed my JB4 and secondary ark Downpipes from my previous stinger that I had kept. I also put the velossa tech big mouth snorkels on it and so far have not had any issues.

Hey I’m having this same issue at 14k miles. Have you had any issue since?

 

[Diggler1101]

Hey I’m having this same issue at 14k miles. Have you had any issue since?

I was having this issue as well. I installed a jb4 with the ewg wires, new plugs and my problem is gone.