Can A high 11 second quarter with 118+ mph trap be achieved on 91 octane?

[KiaStingerNewb]

New member here. New to Kia and damn do I love my Stinger GT AWD. I have read through the forums but haven't really found a specific answer. The quarter mile list thread I noticed almost everyone running 93 octane to achieve these numbers. Stock I know for the AWD depending on conditions I seem to likely be somewhere in the 12.8-13.3 quarter, and trap speeds between 107-111 ish (just based on a bunch of people's results, not mine).

In California unfortunately we use shitty 91 octane as "premium", so going to higher staged tunes is NOT an option. Neither is catless downpipe potentially (this one I may get lucky on).

My goal is basically high 11's and trap speeds in the 118-120 range (M3 territory, faster than 90% of cars I'd encounter on the street). A couple basic criteria I need to meet and I'm just wondering if there is a path for me.

1. Given my car has 500 miles on it, I'm trying to avoid ECU tunes that leave imprint and risk my warranty. I assume that leaves me with "piggyback" tune options. So no Tork. From my understanding my best path based on this is Lap3 or JB4. No need to point out things like "You have to pay to play" or "Reliable, fast, cheap pick one". I've modded multiple cars to the 11's, thing is I'm completely new to the Kia brand, twin turbo's etc. My last couple vehicles were a Challenger, Mustang with V8's. My fastest car ever trap speed wise was probably my big turbo SRT4. I believe you can still lightly mod a car as a reliable DD. Not expecting to build a drag machine out of this car.

2. In California they are strict as hell on cats. It's damn near impossible to even find someone to touch a cat at a shop. I noticed secondary cat delete/midpipe seems to be a common choke point in these cars and a mod EVERYONE in the top 20-30 quarter mile list seems to have. If I somehow find someone to do a catless midpipe, will it throw a CEL, even if I leave primary ones? Given the Magnussen/Moss act... I'm pretty sure I'm fine warranty wise unless they can prove the cat affected something (shouldn't beyond admissions much).

3. It needs to be on 91 octane as I said above. So can JB4 or Lap3 for example give me a 91 tune with bolt ons (stock turbo, internals) that can get me to my goal? It seems for high 11's, low 12's... most people on this forum have intake, exhaust (or muffler delete), FMIC and a tune. Nothing too fancy. The main difference is they are all 93+ octane. I don't mind using an occasional octane booster, but would prefer not depend on it.


So far I have done nothing but a muffler delete. Next week I'm going to buy intakes (still haven't decided which yet) and a tuner. FMIC/Downpipe will be early next year after my trip to Greece in January (not cheap!). Spark plugs with different gapping seem like a must to do with any tune for this car.

Anyway, anyone with experience on 91 octane help would be much appreciated. I also welcome vendors pitching me on their particular 91 tune. I feel like with the strong internals of this car... and the stock twin turbos picking up a second or so in the quarter shouldn't be TOO terribly hard.

 

[Kinvara8017]

buy my JB4, get a water methanol kit (as its an easy way to boost octane when you need it), intakes (I have the agency power ones) and save your money for an intercooler for the summer. Easy 11.9 at 120mph with an AWD and you spend a bit over 1k$

 

[Terry@BMS]

With the burnout switch high 11s is possible on 91 octane. On trap not sure, might wind up being closer to 116mph on an AWD. With octane booster or WMI kit added mid 11s@118mph no problem.

 

[Tonkabob]

It should be possible when you run some octane booster, do the bms brake mod aka brake snip and maybe lighten things up a bit, wheels are rocks.
Even though the fastest cars have mid pipes doesn't mean they make any power. There where some misconceptions early on about both primary and secondarys. Primarys do a little secondarys do virtually nothing.
I've run 11.8 at the track with all 4 cats on a 92 octane tork tune, no wmi, no brake snip.
You can do it but have to brake snip for sure if you want to stick with a piggyback.
On the 91 octane map pretty sure its not possible.

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

With the burnout switch high 11s is possible on 91 octane. On trap not sure, might wind up being closer to 116mph on an AWD. With octane booster or WMI kit added mid 11s@118mph no problem.

Appreciate the response. I've been looking heavily at your JB4. You guys are referring to meth injection correct? I've never used meth injection, but from my understanding it can be used or not used when I want? Your JB4 is a piggyback and can easily erase logs in the event of an engine issue when I go to dealer?

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

buy my JB4, get a water methanol kit (as its an easy way to boost octane when you need it), intakes (I have the agency power ones) and save your money for an intercooler for the summer. Easy 11.9 at 120mph with an AWD and you spend a bit over 1k$

That's the beauty of a turbocharger. Bolt ons and tune seem to go a really long way. About 6 or 7 years ago I had a 2.5L WRX. Stage two with catless turboback+tune and I gained 80+ at the wheels according to the dyno. I've dug a lot through this forum and it seems these cars have forged pistons/rods+a trans that can hold 700-800 NM. Is this accurate information??

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

It should be possible when you run some octane booster, do the bms brake mod aka brake snip and maybe lighten things up a bit, wheels are rocks.
Even though the fastest cars have mid pipes doesn't mean they make any power. There where some misconceptions early on about both primary and secondarys. Primarys do a little secondarys do virtually nothing.
I've run 11.8 at the track with all 4 cats on a 92 octane tork tune, no wmi, no brake snip.
You can do it but have to brake snip for sure if you want to stick with a piggyback.
On the 91 octane map pretty sure its not possible.

What is a brake snip mod? Never heard of that before. I assume I need to head over to BMS and research. I wonder if a big bottle of Lucas octane booster from an autoparts store from Autozone will take me up one octane point from 91 to 92? I'd be okay with having a map ready for when I DO decide I want to have a little fun at 92 octane, but having it disabled otherwise when I drive 91. I suppose if 91 can't get me to my goal :\.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Appreciate the response. I've been looking heavily at your JB4. You guys are referring to meth injection correct? I've never used meth injection, but from my understanding it can be used or not used when I want? Your JB4 is a piggyback and can easily erase logs in the event of an engine issue when I go to dealer?

We have a clean plug and play WMI kit that is fully reversible on our site. WMI is on demand so only runs when you select the WMI map in our app.

The burnout switch details are here: Stinger Burn Out Switch DIY - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion

Regarding warranty claims no trace is left behind but we're not interested in being your partner in warranty fraud. Pay for any damage you cause operating your vehicle in excess of the factory specifications.

 

[lun471k]

For the intakes, considering you're experienced in car modding, I would suggest you take a look at this DIY thread:

3.3TT - Open Source Intake Mod

I've been running JB4's map 1 for a week now (because I only have stock plugs). The gap is too wide on stock plugs and should at least be regapped (read here

How to avoid blown spark plugs in your tuned Stinger

Welcome to the family ! I'm watching this thread closely as ~11.5s is also my target with my AWD.

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

We have a clean plug and play WMI kit that is fully reversible on our site. WMI is on demand so only runs when you select the WMI map in our app.

Regarding warranty claims no trace is left behind but we're not interested in being your partner in warranty fraud. Pay for any damage you cause operating your vehicle in excess of the factory specifications.

Appreciate the information. I respect the warranty situation, I also think a well made tune that isn't cracking the ECU and not pushing parameters too far, shouldn't void a powertrain warranty (and under Magnusen Moss would be incredibly hard to prove, but that won't stop them from incorrectly blaming your tune and passing the bill along to me). I mean if all it took was a little leaner AF+ say 3 PSI for example to blow this car up and void a warranty, then it's not such a reliable platform to begin with. Most issues in my experience with non Kia cars came in the quality of the tune.

So I'm not necessarily asking for help with "fraud" I'm just wanting a tune that isn't actually cracking the ECU and leaving imprints on the system. I don't want to give them an easy thing to point the finger at, even IF your tune is perfect and wasn't the cause of detonation. My intentions aren't bad here, I've just seen companies be dishonest and not honor a warranty, despite no proof failure was caused by a tune (I work in the car business and have worked at multiple dealerships).

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

For the intakes, considering you're experienced in car modding, I would suggest you take a look at this DIY thread:


I've been running JB4's map 1 for a week now (because I only have stock plugs). The gap is too wide on stock plugs and should at least be regapped (read here



Welcome to the family ! I'm watching this thread closely as ~11.5s is also my target with my AWD.

Thanks for the warm welcome buddy. I hate that such a simple flaw like the plug gap exists with this car. I've read of STOCK cars blowing plugs too??? That's kinda nuts. My only gripe so far is the brakes. Not drilled or slotted, and I'm already having noise/mild shaking when braking from freeway speeds. Upon researching more it seems brake issues with these brembo's are quite common. I have an appointment Thursday at Kia. My assumption is they may resurface rotors+put new pads on. It seems better quality pads stops causing these deposits+warping rotors as much. I'll eventually upgrade pads I'm sure.

PS... as a new member to respond to you it's forcing me to delete your links, sorry.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

First, congrats on your Stinger and welcome to the Stinger Swarm.

One of the quickest JB4 AWD Stingers only had intakes and WMI and ran a 11.59@118.77mph. He has completely stock exhaust but was using the BMS brake switch mod which drops about 0.3-0.4sec off 1/4m times. He did use 93, but the WMI should give you the extra octane to still get mid-high 11s with very minimal mods. Otherwise an e30 mix will give you similar performance.

Also, I and many others achieved 0.2sec quicker 0-60 & 1/4m times with just intakes and here is a lot of info about it.DIY intakes w/Heat shielding drop about 0.2sec off 0-60

Yes piggybacks are very popular with our Stingers because of the “plug/unplug & play” capability as well as many other benefits. And Terry(JB4) has gained about 90whp/125wtq using 91 & intakes only. Stock baseline was 327whp/392wtq.


Lastly, yes our OEM pads are junk and tons of people have had rotors resurfaced/replaced do to pad deposits. To save yourself the trouble just have them resurfaced by Kia and then get some good aftermarket pads. Myself, as well as a few people from my SFL Stinger Swarm got the Akebobo premium ceramic pads(Akebono PERFORMANCE Ultra-Premium Ceramic Pads) which resolved the issue and work great.

Hope this helps and happy tuning!

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

First, congrats on your Stinger and welcome to the Stinger Swarm.

One of the quickest JB4 AWD Stingers only had intakes and WMI and ran a 11.59@118.77mph. He has completely stock exhaust but was using the BMS brake switch mod which drops about 0.3-0.4sec off 1/4m times. He did use 93, but the WMI should give you the extra octane to still get mid-high 11s with very minimal mods. Otherwise an e30 mix will give you similar performance.

Also, I and many others achieved 0.2sec quicker 0-60 & 1/4m times with just intakes and here is a lot of info about it.

Yes piggybacks are very popular with our Stingers because of the “plug/unplug & play” capability as well as many other benefits. And Terry(JB4) has gained about 90whp/125wtq using 91 & intakes only. Stock baseline was 327whp/392wtq.
View attachment 34237

Lastly, yes our OEM pads are junk and tons of people have had rotors resurfaced/replaced do to pad deposits. To save yourself the trouble just have them resurfaced by Kia and then get some good aftermarket pads. Myself, as well as a few people from my SFL Stinger Swarm got the Akebobo premium ceramic pads which resolved the issue and work great.

Hope this helps and happy tuning!

Great info! Thanks. I need to research about the brake switch mod. No clue what it is. I can't find much on google either . PS I see all of your Subbie's. I sell Subaru for a living .


PS... all blue link quotes it's making me delete to respond because I'm new. So annoying.

 

[Hydrajin]

Appreciate the information. I respect the warranty situation, I also think a well made tune that isn't cracking the ECU and not pushing parameters too far, shouldn't void a powertrain warranty (and under Magnusen Moss would be incredibly hard to prove, but that won't stop them from incorrectly blaming your tune and passing the bill along to me). I mean if all it took was a little leaner AF+ say 3 PSI for example to blow this car up and void a warranty, then it's not such a reliable platform to begin with. Most issues in my experience with non Kia cars came in the quality of the tune.

So I'm not necessarily asking for help with "fraud" I'm just wanting a tune that isn't actually cracking the ECU and leaving imprints on the system. I don't want to give them an easy thing to point the finger at, even IF your tune is perfect and wasn't the cause of detonation. My intentions aren't bad here, I've just seen companies be dishonest and not honor a warranty, despite no proof failure was caused by a tune (I work in the car business and have worked at multiple dealerships).

They sure didn't honor warped rotors at 6k km and 2 blown plugs at 17k km on a stock car lol, if I chipped it and it caused a failure, you bet I'll remove the chip and take it in for warranty (if they agree to warranty it that is, so far everything I've had to replace has been wear and tear under 17000 km). First car I heard of to blow plugs at 17k, need sway bar bushing at 14k, and have warped rotors at 6k. Kia HQ claims this is all wear and tear when I called them to support their stealership network. Looks like our 5yr comprehensive warranty in Canada isn't worth a damn. Car is currently rolling on eibach sway bars, 2 step colder plugs, and stoptech pads with cquence rotors.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Great info! Thanks. I need to research about the brake switch mod. No clue what it is. I can't find much on google either . PS I see all of your Subbie's. I sell Subaru for a living .


PS... all blue link quotes it's making me delete to respond because I'm new. So annoying.

It’s simply an on/off switch you connect to the brake sensor wire. It just disables the brake signal so it doesn’t cut power when you apply the brakes. It allows for basic brake boosting and will launch around 3k RPM instead of 2200 and will build boost to 8-10psi I believe. Here’s a link for a lot more info.
Stinger Burn Out Switch DIY - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion

Lol I used to sell Subaru’s too and was one of the easiest cars to sell. Most owners just come in to pick their next Subaru and tons of repeat buyers. I loved my 2000 RS and was in the tuner game before people even knew what a WRX or STI was.

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

It’s simply an on/off switch you connect to the brake sensor wire. It just disables the brake signal so it doesn’t cut power when you apply the brakes. It allows for basic brake boosting and will launch around 3k RPM instead of 2200 and will build boost to 8-10psi I believe. Here’s a link for a lot more info.

Lol I used to sell Subaru’s too and was one of the easiest cars to sell. Most owners just come in to pick their next Subaru and tons of repeat buyers. I loved my 2000 RS and was in the tuner game before people even knew what a WRX or STI was.

Haha yea. One of my dream projects is still a GC8 L sedan. I've done nationwide searches and 90% are automatic, the rest are beat to shit with rust and like 200k miles. One day I'll own one! Oh nice on the brake switch. Thanks for info.

 

[Thorne]

I would say it really depends on the 91. If your talking about CALI 91.... IT"S TRASH.. That being said I plan to put my ca into the mid to low 11s in 2020 using CA91 + Tork Tune + JB4 + JB4 Meth .

 

[Tonkabob]

The brake snip gives between 5 and 15+ PSI and between 2500 and 3500 RPM at launch. Most are in the 2500-2800 RPM range. When you see 3500 your trany just broke. Most people i chat with have regretted the mod. But it has gotten tons of people in the 11s that may not have gotten there otherwise.

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

The brake snip gives between 5 and 15+ PSI and between 2500 and 3500 RPM at launch. Most are in the 2500-2800 RPM range. When you see 3500 your trany just broke. Most people i chat with have regretted the mod. But it has gotten tons of people in the 11s that may not have gotten there otherwise.

Isn't this tranny rated to 800 NM supposedly??? If 3500 launches breaks the trans that's pretty weak lol. I used to do 5k RPM launches in my WRX, no issues.

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

Also I've read the manual to do launch control and still hasn't helped me figure it out. Can anyone simplify how to use launch control? Hold the traction+stability button for a few seconds to disable right? Then just hold brake down all the way+gas? I mean it should be way easier than it seems. Does auto hold need to be on?