Can A high 11 second quarter with 118+ mph trap be achieved on 91 octane?

[KiaStingerNewb]

I would say it really depends on the 91. If your talking about CALI 91.... IT"S TRASH.. That being said I plan to put my ca into the mid to low 11s in 2020 using CA91 + Tork Tune + JB4 + JB4 Meth .

What do you have so far? I just have a muffler delete now. Is a muffler delete (as in literally straight piped the mufflers) affecting power or anything? It seems like my low end torque is worse, but I suspect that's just me getting used to the car's power after 10 days. I'd imagine a muffler delete has zero effect on power usually, just sound?

 

[Tonkabob]

Also I've read the manual to do launch control and still hasn't helped me figure it out. Can anyone simplify how to use launch control? Hold the traction+stability button for a few seconds to disable right? Then just hold brake down all the way+gas? I mean it should be way easier than it seems. Does auto hold need to be on?

Yes that's correct but you also have to be in sports mode or custom with sport transmission.
I suspect your WRX had a clutch? This is a torque converter. Most just stay at 2800 RPM. The 2 guys that held the break for too long 3-4 seconds jumped up to 3500 and started having trans issues but I thing both have been fairly silent lately.

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

Yes that's correct but you also have to be in sports mode or custom with sport transmission.
I suspect your WRX had a clutch? This is a torque converter. Most just stay at 2800 RPM. The 2 guys that held the break for too long 3-4 seconds jumped up to 3500 and started having trans issues but I thing both have been fairly silent lately.

Fair points. Still seems like a weak point though possibly. Is the trans really rated to 800 at the wheels or 800 NM (which would be around 590 torque lbs foot to the wheel)? So auto hold needs to be on? I have been using custom mode more. I made it all sport settings besides the AWD on Comfort, which I believe keeps default 70/30 RWD split, vs 80/20 of Sport mode. I figure a little more in the front could help with launches on rough streets of Southern California with a lot of uneven surfaces.

 

[lun471k]

Auto Hold doesn't need to be on at all.

Make sure you hold the "TC Off" button 5 full seconds, you'll have two lights turning on in your dashboard.

Being in sport/custom mode, press on the brake, press on the throttle, release brake within X seconds (otherwise the RPM will fall back down to idle, you can test this).

 

[Tonkabob]

Fair points. Still seems like a weak point though possibly. Is the trans really rated to 800 at the wheels or 800 NM (which would be around 590 torque lbs foot to the wheel)? So auto hold needs to be on? I have been using custom mode more. I made it all sport settings besides the AWD on Comfort, which I believe keeps default 70/30 RWD split, vs 80/20 of Sport mode. I figure a little more in the front could help with launches on rough streets of Southern California with a lot of uneven surfaces.

Don't need auto hold for LC. LC activated pops up on your screen and does a double ding when you put pedal down.
I think comfort trans is 50/50.

 

[lun471k]

Don't need auto hold for LC. LC activated pops up on your screen and does a double ding when you put pedal down.
I think comfort trans is 50/50.

I confirm it's 50/50. I haven't tried launching with comfort trans, but I'm driving with it on comfort everyday lately while in custom mode to get out of heavy snow. If I mistakenly put it in sport, I spin all over the place (I might be driving too hard lol).

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Is the trans really rated to 800 at the wheels or 800 NM (which would be around 590 torque lbs foot to the wheel)?.

Supposedly the transmission is rated at 1000nm or about 740wtq. This was posted by someone else on this forum a while ago and shows the torque capacity of the transfer case, but what the transmission is exactly is unknown to the public. Should be close since Kia likely wouldn’t make one a lot more than the other.

 

[luter200]

Currently I'm running intakes, downpipes, catback, and jb4 (map2) on my quarter mile runs and I can tell you I'm only hitting about 12.3s give or take depending on RT. I need a wmi kit to run the higher maps and I'm not really that much of a risk taker without it so I would say only on 91 and a jb4? Hell no unless your willing to push your car with the jb4 like this dude:

 

[Tonkabob]

Currently I'm running intakes, downpipes, catback, and jb4 (map2) on my quarter mile runs and I can tell you I'm only hitting about 12.3s give or take depending on RT. I need a wmi kit to run the higher maps and I'm not really that much of a risk taker without it so I would say only on 91 and a jb4? Hell no unless your willing to push your car with the jb4 like this dude:

Ahh yes, Angel. I think he is the only jb4 to run 11.9s with out WMI or a brake snip. And that was on E30.
After brake snip he ran an 11.7.

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

Currently I'm running intakes, downpipes, catback, and jb4 (map2) on my quarter mile runs and I can tell you I'm only hitting about 12.3s give or take depending on RT. I need a wmi kit to run the higher maps and I'm not really that much of a risk taker without it so I would say only on 91 and a jb4? Hell no unless your willing to push your car with the jb4 like this dude:

Ah. So with my muffler delete+intake+JB4 map 2 in the works I'm probably low-mid 12s at best with AWD on shitty 91. Maybe a tank of race gas (100+ octane) I'd run high 11s on a higher map?

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

Ahh yes, Angel. I think he is the only jb4 to run 11.9s with out WMI or a brake snip. And that was on E30.
After brake snip he ran an 11.7.

You said brake snip is risky though right? Maybe WMI should be on my list. Also FMIC?

 

[luter200]

Ah. So with my muffler delete+intake+JB4 map 2 in the works I'm probably low-mid 12s at best with AWD on shitty 91. Maybe a tank of race gas (100+ octane) I'd run high 11s on a higher map?

Yeah with all your bolt ons, and map2 on 91 octane your looking at about a 12.2-12.5 maybe? The only thing AWD is going to help you with is getting off the line and reaction time (listed as RT on your slip). It doesn't actually relate to trap speed which reduce 1/4 mile times over time after your off the line. The FMIC will help you the most with those lap times because it gives you a nice power gain all throughout the powerband and pretty noticeable up top (on a dyno run). It won't help you off the line though at low RPMs.

IF you really want to get to low 12s, or dip in to the 11s without WMI then go ethanol. Do a E30 mixture (mix 5 gallons of E85 into a full tank of 93). You can do it without any add-ons to the car as long as you are doing your math correctly. The E30 mix will automatically give you a noticeable bump in both performance (+-20hp) and cooling. You can also run the higher maps without worrying about getting engine knock. That will probably get you to the 11s.

Take all this with a grain of salt though... Be warned... On Map3, 5, or 8 you are pushing everything to the absolute max. You are definitely pushing at least 20 pounds of boost through the engine. YOU need to do your math correctly if you are eyeballing your E30 mix. I am an advocate for doing things correctly. So I would suggest either A) Running WMI or B) Buying the Fuel It kit for running your ethanol. Its better safe than sorry especially if you really don't have 50k to throw down the drain.

I would suggest the Fuel It kit since you gain some hp from ethanol alone as well as extra safety. You definitely don't want to be unleashing 22 pounds of boost down the track and the WMI kit for some reason stops spraying meth in your cylinders. Thats how you kiss your investment goodbye. A good E30 mix can't fail because its already mixed in the fuel. The only downfall of ethanol for the Stinger is the fuel system. Since Ethanol is lighter than gasoline our fuel pumps have to work overtime to keep up with the demand under full throttle.

 

[Tonkabob]

You said brake snip is risky though right? Maybe WMI should be on my list. Also FMIC?

Hard to say if its risky. Not that much data yet. If you do it just keep the power brake to about 1 second or less and maybe only half throttle depending on how aggressive your snip ends up. My snip is mild or wild and the mild mode is only as fast as my ecu tune enhanced launch control - 1.77 60 foot. Wild is even slower as you can't control the wheel spin.
WMI especially if you run higher than 50% meth levels will give you more power than the FMIC but more hassle. But with 91 octane its almost a must to get into the 11s.
Tune
Intake
WMI or FMIC
Catback
Light wheels

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

Hard to say if its risky. Not that much data yet. If you do it just keep the power brake to about 1 second or less and maybe only half throttle depending on how aggressive your snip ends up. My snip is mild or wild and the mild mode is only as fast as my ecu tune enhanced launch control - 1.77 60 foot. Wild is even slower as you can't control the wheel spin.
WMI especially if you run higher than 50% meth levels will give you more power than the FMIC but more hassle. But with 91 octane its almost a must to get into the 11s.
Tune
Intake
WMI or FMIC
Catback
Light wheels

Is a catback really any more power than my muffler delete? Thanks as always for the great info BTW.

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Is a catback really any more power than my muffler delete? Thanks as always for the great info BTW.

Nope possible a better option if you can deal with the drone and noise, since it will weigh significantly less.

 

[KiaStingerNewb]

Nope possible a better option if you can deal with the drone and noise, since it will weigh significantly less.

There is drone for sure, but when cruising on freeway for longer distances I put in eco which silences it a lot and keeps cruising RPM around 1k-1.5k ish. On the street a lot of people try to race because my car has a nice sound now, that's the only more annoying thing. With intake+tune these cars may sound like a baby GTR.