Hey everyone, had an odd/upsetting situation that seems rare but google told me a handful of others encountered.
So the stinger has been in hibernation for winter but I decided to take it for a rip since it was nice out… circulate oil, charge battery etc… decided to check the oil before hand, found this -
Some googling found that others have experienced this, and there was some discussion on having been turned away as non-warranty and worry about whether to even deal with it or just go on with life.
Logically I decided it’d never make it past the pickup tube screen but I worried what if it was enough of an obstruction to impede flow, therefore reduce pressure… so I decided to deal with it.
Labor time called for on the lower pan is 2.5 hours (awd) according to Mitchell, most of that time is due to them wanting you to remove the hood so you can raise the engine a few inches to access these front bolts -
You can see how they’re overhung by the subframe. Seems like rwd is an easier process.
I did not do the engine raising, I just used a 10mm, 6pt closed end wrench to get those ones and the clearance is a pain but it’s enough, it can be done.
Pan off, took me about 30 mins with a lift, would be a pain for sure on the ground.
There she is.
Clean up the pan, make sure sealing surfaces are clean, dry, and oil-free… make a 1/10th - 1/8th bead of black or grey rtv around the perimeter inside the bolt holes. You don’t wanna use too much cause if it squeezes out into the inside of the pan it’ll be problematic.
You can see the illustration, white line all around.
Torque pan bolts to 10ft-lb… couldn’t get a torque wrench on those front bolts tucked in there… just felt it out knowing what the 10ftlbs on the others felt like.
Depending on what sealant you use, let it sit a few hours to overnight… there are sealants you can return to service immediately but I still let it sit awhile, check your packaging.
Refill and check for leaks.
Mine’s been okay so far since yesterday… I just wanted to post this up for general knowledge in case anyone else has this happen and feels like it’s a huge nightmare, or ends up with a dealer quoting them $1200 to fish this broken piece out as I read a story about. If you’re a little mechanically savvy, it’s not that difficult on this car. Even if you have a pay a non-dealer shop, it should only run like 300-350 plus the cost of an oil change.
I wanted to post this in the how-to section but I wasn’t able.
Feel free to throw any questions out, Thanks!
Edit: I don’t know why all my pictures posted sideways, but they’re all rotated to the left, sorry.
So the stinger has been in hibernation for winter but I decided to take it for a rip since it was nice out… circulate oil, charge battery etc… decided to check the oil before hand, found this -
Some googling found that others have experienced this, and there was some discussion on having been turned away as non-warranty and worry about whether to even deal with it or just go on with life.
Logically I decided it’d never make it past the pickup tube screen but I worried what if it was enough of an obstruction to impede flow, therefore reduce pressure… so I decided to deal with it.
Labor time called for on the lower pan is 2.5 hours (awd) according to Mitchell, most of that time is due to them wanting you to remove the hood so you can raise the engine a few inches to access these front bolts -
You can see how they’re overhung by the subframe. Seems like rwd is an easier process.
I did not do the engine raising, I just used a 10mm, 6pt closed end wrench to get those ones and the clearance is a pain but it’s enough, it can be done.
Pan off, took me about 30 mins with a lift, would be a pain for sure on the ground.
There she is.
Clean up the pan, make sure sealing surfaces are clean, dry, and oil-free… make a 1/10th - 1/8th bead of black or grey rtv around the perimeter inside the bolt holes. You don’t wanna use too much cause if it squeezes out into the inside of the pan it’ll be problematic.
You can see the illustration, white line all around.
Torque pan bolts to 10ft-lb… couldn’t get a torque wrench on those front bolts tucked in there… just felt it out knowing what the 10ftlbs on the others felt like.
Depending on what sealant you use, let it sit a few hours to overnight… there are sealants you can return to service immediately but I still let it sit awhile, check your packaging.
Refill and check for leaks.
Mine’s been okay so far since yesterday… I just wanted to post this up for general knowledge in case anyone else has this happen and feels like it’s a huge nightmare, or ends up with a dealer quoting them $1200 to fish this broken piece out as I read a story about. If you’re a little mechanically savvy, it’s not that difficult on this car. Even if you have a pay a non-dealer shop, it should only run like 300-350 plus the cost of an oil change.
I wanted to post this in the how-to section but I wasn’t able.
Feel free to throw any questions out, Thanks!
Edit: I don’t know why all my pictures posted sideways, but they’re all rotated to the left, sorry.
