Badge Removal=Paint Removal

[Paladin611]

I used a similar solution with my Stinger. I was incredibly careful with the badge removal but need to use something to cut the adhesive between the posts. Even with diligent care, I left a couple little gouges in the paint. The Stinger script would not cover them up, so I opted for a red version of the same badge you bought, it looked good.

I've done debadging on nearly every car I owned and NEVER had an issue like I did with the Stinger. I think the key difference is that the badges I removed in the past were on metal panels, whereas the badges on the front and rear of the Stinger are plastic panels. Based on the size of rock chips I have received, I always questioned the quality of the paint on my Stinger.

When the car was hit on the front, the body shop removed the badge I replaced the front badge with, I think they were trying to salvage it so I could reinstall it on the new bumper. You should have seen how much white paint was on the adhesive back of the badge they removed...they probably just tore it off, but still, wow.

Wow- yeah, I agree about the quality of the Stinger paint. I think a lot of people with specific colors feel that way. Especially, the yellow owner’s like me. The car is still beautiful, but there’s been something off about the paint. Something that still makes me have an urge to ceramic coat it, as I plan to do. Now we see the poor integrity of this paint with just a little stress applied to it- so vinyl wrapping the car, as far as I’m concerned, would never be a smart option, not that I’d ever want to do that. I’m glad that as far as badges go- I’m finished making changes.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Now we see the poor integrity of this paint with just a little stress applied to it- so vinyl wrapping the car, as far as I’m concerned, would never be a smart option, not that I’d ever want to do that.

I don't understand this. Vinyl is thinner than PPF, but also cheaper; and a ton cheaper than a real paint job. If the Stinger's paint is particularly "compromised" by production cost cuts (I don't believe that it is), and you are keeping the car anyway, it only makes sense to keep it looking spiff the least expensive way possible.

I've casually estimated the costs: a "real paint job" will run no less than $6K (I am assuming none of us would go "Maaco" or the like). It will last, looking really good, at most ten years; and only if you put PPF on the forward facing and high traffic areas. So, easily ten grand for a respray and PPF. Now, if you go vinyl wrap instead, as a solution to weak OE paint (some Stingers are definitely not doing as well as the majority of vehicles), it will run c. $3K to $4K; and you might actually find a competent installer who will do it for less (surely you can always "find" one who will do it for a lot more!). Vinyl is touted to last up to five years (some claim higher, but I doubt it). Add it up: you could get your car wrapped three times for c. the same cost as a good quality respray and PPF.

Now, is vinyl in the forward facing areas going to hold up like PPF? This is the problematic part: no, it will not. But, will a touchup paint kit work to see the whole vinyl job through to the time when it is starting to look a bit less vibrant (faded)? And you want to replace it anyway. I'm thinking that vinyl is tougher than bare paint; especially if you wrap in c. the same color as the OE paint: any road rash will hardly show, and larger/deeper dings can be touched up. If something really nasty happens, of course, you rewrap the area. Should be fine and a lot less expensive than a respray.

 

[Paladin611]

Merlin, there is no way I’d wrap my car- that is the point. Just considering the stress on the paint to remove vinyl that has been baked on through a few summers..I wouldn’t even want to begin imagining the damage that that pulling would cause. Its not a risk I want to take. Yes, the overall quality of the paint on my S7Y painted car is definitely questionable, but that’s what happens when oil based chemicals get accidentally mixed in with the paint. I know for a fact that the repaint that KIA provided via warranty only covers limited areas of the car. Specifically, metal areas such as the hood. It is unfortunately not the whole car like it should have been. Again, the way I am going to be dealing with this is through maintaining the paint as best I can with procedures like Ceramic Coating.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Just considering the stress on the paint to remove vinyl that has been baked on through a few summers..I wouldn’t even want to begin imagining the damage that that pulling would cause.

Hmm. I haven't heard of removing vinyl being that risky, no matter how long it's been on the car. I have heard of PPF being a job to remove, and possibly even difficult enough to threaten the dark chrome layer on our chrome pieces (which is why the installer didn't recommend putting PPF over my mirror caps; he said he's seen the dark chrome "wrinkle" sometimes). But even PPF comes off without pulling paint up. At least on a normal (uncompromised) paint job. But if wrapping is the choice, I reckon that a rewrap is in order down the road, not pulling the wrap to expose the OE paint and then spruce it up sans wrap: once we wrap (unless the later choice is to respray), it is expected that a wrap pulled off will be replaced by another wrap: and if so, then what difference does theoretically pulling up some paint with the old wrap make? You're just going to cover everything back up again anyway.

 

[Paladin611]

Hmm. I haven't heard of removing vinyl being that risky, no matter how long it's been on the car. I have heard of PPF being a job to remove, and possibly even difficult enough to threaten the dark chrome layer on our chrome pieces (which is why the installer didn't recommend putting PPF over my mirror caps; he said he's seen the dark chrome "wrinkle" sometimes). But even PPF comes off without pulling paint up. At least on a normal (uncompromised) paint job. But if wrapping is the choice, I reckon that a rewrap is in order down the road, not pulling the wrap to expose the OE paint and then spruce it up sans wrap: once we wrap (unless the later choice is to respray), it is expected that a wrap pulled off will be replaced by another wrap: and if so, then what difference does theoretically pulling up some paint with the old wrap make? You're just going to cover everything back up again anyway.

I prefer the organic representation of paint, even paint that needs some “assistance.” I do not want to get into the habit of “covering” up my car. Especially with material that leaves a synthetic appearance. Also, I have removed and replaced vinyl from my previous Mustang- and it is a nightmare from my experience- and it involves a heat gun if your smart. Removing it does pull at the clear, even when prepped properly, and I, personally, would never want to gamble such an outcome with paint of this quality. I am positive that I could make this paint look sharp as heck as soon as my projects resume.

 

[Love4steel]

My rear badge replacement went without problems. I used a heat gun but very gentle on lowest setting.. I could have used a hair dryer and made it more hot. Then I pried badge off using non scratch trim tools..whatever side I pried I put a tool under the badge on the opposite side so it wouldn’t dig in. When badge came free there was barely any decal left on the car. Couple dabs of goo gone on a rag. I guess I was lucky.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I guess I was lucky.

No you weren't, you "prayed".

 

[Love4steel]

No you weren't, you "prayed".

gotcha. fixed lol