Badge Removal=Paint Removal

[Paladin611]

I have been focusing on aesthetic mods this year. Next year will be performance based mods, including JB4. One of the several things I have done so far this year concerning my projects, is to remove the rear Kia trunk badge and replace with the 14” Kia cursive badge. Well, the Kia badge came off fairly easily with the use of a heat gun and two flattening cards used for vinyl stripe installations.

The problem was found to be in the removal of the excessive glue left behind. Even removing this glue with care and bit of citrus based glue remover- two slight, minuscule cuts were inadvertently made on the paint and exposed the metal. Extremely disgusted, using the crappy Kia paint pen did not result to anything I want to be advertising on my trunk door. I’d rather have the old, NA Kia badge, than damaged paint.

I found the solution to be to either vinyl wrap part of the trunk with black vinyl (nice contrast with yellow), or, what I actually settled for- a carbon fiber K-lexus badge. Yes, It’ll be a cover up for now. But the damage will be permanently hidden, and the new, black carbon fiber badge matches my carbon fiber spoiler, and makes an awesome contrast with the Sunset Yellow. All I have to know is that the day the new badge comes off, I need to be prepared for a new paint job to my trunk door. The badge will be on for a little while.

 

[westcoastGT]

I have been focusing on aesthetic mods this year. Next year will be performance based mods, including JB4. One of the several things I have done so far this year into my projects, is to remove the rear Kia trunk badge and replace with the 14” Kia cursive badge. Well, Kia badge came off fairly easily with the use of a heat gun and two flattening cards used for vinyl stripe installations.

The problem was found to be in the removal of the excessive glue left behind. Even removing this glue with care and bit of citrus based glue remover- two slight cuts were made on the paint and expose the metal. Extremely disgusted, using the crappy Kia paint stick did not result into anything I want to be advertising in my trunk.

I found the solution to be to either vinyl wrap the trunk with black vinyl (nice contrast with yellow), or, what I actually settled for- a carbon fiber K-lexus badge. Yes, I’ll be a cover up for now. But the damage will be permanently hidden, and the new badge matches my carbon fiber spoiler. All I have to know is that the day the new badge comes off, I need to be prepared for a new paint job to my trunk door.

Pic ???

 

[Paladin611]

Pic ???

Hey man. I plasti-dipped my wheels too- thanks to seeing your results. You sold me on it. Ok..the badge...sitting right next to me. I take a quick pic of it..I haven’t put it on yet. I have a nightmare flooring project taking place all weekend

 

[MerlintheMad]

Are you saying that the badge was off and only cleaning the glue residue caused damage? That is the first time I've heard of damage after the fact of removal. So sorry that your careful removal didn't work out. Crap.

 

[Paladin611]

Are you saying that the badge was off and only cleaning the glue residue caused damage? That is the first time I've heard of damage after the fact of removal. So sorry that your careful removal didn't work out. Crap.

How’s it going, Merlin? Yes- your interpretation is correct. It was a risk we all take- just didn’t work out for me. I have to accept it. But i’m still happy with the solution so its not as bad as it sounds.

 

[Paladin611]

Funny thing is- no problem at all in the front with the Excellence badge install.

 

[Rynil2000]

So many posts lately about ruining the paint by those doing badge removal. I went through the same process, but didn't experience these terrible results. Hopefully sharing my experience and tips I learned can help others who attempt.

• Take your time, DO NOT pry or force the badge off if it does come off easily. Impatience and brute force is just going to rip up the paint.
• Tape off around your badges. Even try to get the edge of the tape a little under the badge if you can. This will protect the paint during all of this work you're about to do. I used blue painters tape, but yellow automotive tape would have been best.
• Use the fishing line method, with a light gauge, and copious amounts of GooGone (citrus based adhesive remover). If the fishing line doesn't fit under the badge with clearance, get a different kind. I had to buy two sizes before I found the one that worked - I want to say it was 0.050" diameter, maybe 10 or 15 lb test.
• Slowly work the line around the badge from all angles, while maintaining UPWARD pressure (toward you, away from car) on the line. This will help keep the abrasive line away from the paint surface. The goal is to cut through the middle or upper half of the VHB tape and not the bond between the paint and the VHB tape.
• When the fishing line breaks or becomes gunked up (it will), get a new piece. This is not the time to be thrifty with $3 fishing line.
• I used two plastic flattening cards to wedge under the badge. Do not scrape or pry with these. They are just used to keep tension on the badge in order to get the fishing line to work around easier.
• Use the citrus adhesive remover throughout the process; almost as a lube, but also as a dissolving agent. Again, don't be shy with it.
• You should be able to cut through a majority of the 3M VHB tape on the back, leaving a small bit between the posts, which will be easier to remove with a lighter amount of pressure.
• Soak the remaining adhesive in the citrus cleaner, let it work, and slowly remove the foam/glue using light pressure with a paper towel and rolling it with your fingers. DO NOT use a scraper or tool. If it doesn't come off easily, apply more cleaner and repeat. Some report WD-40 will also act as an adhesive cleaner.
• Once the badges are removed, wash the surface with your regular auto soap and water to clean the adhesive remover.
• Any small marks made in the clear coat should be able to fixed using a clear coat safe polishing compound (I used Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0
• After this was cleaned up, I used clear RTV silicone to fill the holes in the trunk (not necessary on the front). Be careful here, because the excess is really stubborn to clean and will stick to your paint.
• Once it's cured, you can proceed with the hardest part: aligning the two-piece script badge to both be straight and cover the two holes.

Just take your time, be mindful, do not rush, and use the right tools. The horror stories should be avoidable. Good luck out there.

 

[MerlintheMad]

The horror stories should be avoidable.

I see zero mention of using heat. This, from my reading, is the key to ruining paint: heat.

 

[Dmchristie1]

Are you saying that the badge was off and only cleaning the glue residue caused damage? That is the first time I've heard of damage after the fact of removal. So sorry that your careful removal didn't work out. Crap.

Look under the license plate for a crack. Both of my stingers experienced cracking under the plates after using the citrus based remover for some reason. Not sure it was linked but it was odd. Yellow paint turned to mush. Red paint held its own though.

 

[Paladin611]

I see zero mention of using heat. This, from my reading, is the key to ruining paint: heat.

I see that. Damn that “StingerGT and Me” guy!

 

[Paladin611]

Look under the license plate for a crack. Both of my stingers experienced cracking under the plates after using the citrus based remover for some reason. Not sure it was linked but it was odd. Yellow paint turned to mush. Red paint held its own though.

I don’t think I have damage under there, but, scar-ree!

 

[Paladin611]

So many posts lately about ruining the paint by those doing badge removal. I went through the same process, but didn't experience these terrible results. Hopefully sharing my experience and tips I learned can help others who attempt.

• Take your time, DO NOT pry or force the badge off if it does come off easily. Impatience and brute force is just going to rip up the paint.
• Tape off around your badges. Even try to get the edge of the tape a little under the badge if you can. This will protect the paint during all of this work you're about to do. I used blue painters tape, but yellow automotive tape would have been best.
• Use the fishing line method, with a light gauge, and copious amounts of GooGone (citrus based adhesive remover). If the fishing line doesn't fit under the badge with clearance, get a different kind. I had to buy two sizes before I found the one that worked - I want to say it was 0.050" diameter, maybe 10 or 15 lb test.
• Slowly work the line around the badge from all angles, while maintaining UPWARD pressure (toward you, away from car) on the line. This will help keep the abrasive line away from the paint surface. The goal is to cut through the middle or upper half of the VHB tape and not the bond between the paint and the VHB tape.
• When the fishing line breaks or becomes gunked up (it will), get a new piece. This is not the time to be thrifty with $3 fishing line.
• I used two plastic flattening cards to wedge under the badge. Do not scrape or pry with these. They are just used to keep tension on the badge in order to get the fishing line to work around easier.
• Use the citrus adhesive remover throughout the process; almost as a lube, but also as a dissolving agent. Again, don't be shy with it.
• You should be able to cut through a majority of the 3M VHB tape on the back, leaving a small bit between the posts, which will be easier to remove with a lighter amount of pressure.
• Soak the remaining adhesive in the citrus cleaner, let it work, and slowly remove the foam/glue using light pressure with a paper towel and rolling it with your fingers. DO NOT use a scraper or tool. If it doesn't come off easily, apply more cleaner and repeat. Some report WD-40 will also act as an adhesive cleaner.
• Once the badges are removed, wash the surface with your regular auto soap and water to clean the adhesive remover.
• Any small marks made in the clear coat should be able to fixed using a clear coat safe polishing compound (I used Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0
• After this was cleaned up, I used clear RTV silicone to fill the holes in the trunk (not necessary on the front). Be careful here, because the excess is really stubborn to clean and will stick to your paint.
• Once it's cured, you can proceed with the hardest part: aligning the two-piece script badge to both be straight and cover the two holes.

Just take your time, be mindful, do not rush, and use the right tools. The horror stories should be avoidable. Good luck out there.

Thank you for taking you time to create such an informative post.

 

[Dmchristie1]

Look under the license plate for a crack. Both of my stingers experienced cracking under the plates after using the citrus based remover for some reason. Not sure it was linked but it was odd. Yellow paint turned to mush. Red paint held its own though.

Thankfully the cracked parts were repaired under warranty and the yellow was totally repainted for other reasons. From KIAs perspective it wasn’t caused by the the goo gone. Just odd that both cracked in the same place below the emblem holes where excess solution may have flowed down. You can see a stain on the red one where the camera is

 

[Paladin611]

Thankfully the cracked parts were repaired under warranty and the yellow was totally repainted for other reasons. From KIAs perspective it wasn’t caused by the the goo gone. Just odd that both cracked in the same place below the emblem holes where excess solution may have flowed down. You can see a stain on the red one where the camera is

Thanks again for this info.

 

[Paladin611]

I see zero mention of using heat. This, from my reading, is the key to ruining paint: heat.

So Youtube needs to remove the StingerGT and Me video that shows the use of a heat gun for this project.

 

[Revvdmedia]

I used a similar solution with my Stinger. I was incredibly careful with the badge removal but need to use something to cut the adhesive between the posts. Even with diligent care, I left a couple little gouges in the paint. The Stinger script would not cover them up, so I opted for a red version of the same badge you bought, it looked good.

I've done debadging on nearly every car I owned and NEVER had an issue like I did with the Stinger. I think the key difference is that the badges I removed in the past were on metal panels, whereas the badges on the front and rear of the Stinger are plastic panels. Based on the size of rock chips I have received, I always questioned the quality of the paint on my Stinger.

When the car was hit on the front, the body shop removed the badge I replaced the front badge with, I think they were trying to salvage it so I could reinstall it on the new bumper. You should have seen how much white paint was on the adhesive back of the badge they removed...they probably just tore it off, but still, wow.

 

[cncBilly]

I see zero mention of using heat. This, from my reading, is the key to ruining paint: heat.

This Merlin I believe to be true. However I removed mine using heat and experienced no problem. But I used very little and very low heat, that combined with the most important tool “patience” did the trick.

 

[westcoastGT]

This Merlin I believe to be true. However I removed mine using heat and experienced no problem. But I used very little and very low heat, that combined with the most important tool “patience” did the trick.

.............patience ? I thought you would have said a 6 pack !

 

[cncBilly]

.............patience ? I thought you would have said a 6 pack !

Sorry the 6 is a given

 

[Revvdmedia]

Sorry the 6 is a given

I had to explain what a "3 beer job" means to the wife. She was not impressed with the analogy lol.