I have to say I do occasionally get the noise when turning sharply from a dead stop. It's not as bad as with the Valvoline gear oil alone, but it's definitely something I didn't hear with whatever fluid was in there before :-/
I can't seem to find 02100-00121 in the USA. Like I can with UM017 CH126 that is easily available and says it's for LSD (Limited Slip Differential) (I found these pics online):
In my quest to find decent diff fluid, I got sidetracked and was on a Korean Proxy site looking for new keyboards to build. I got curious and decided to use said proxy to search for the 02100-00121 diff fluid. Found a guy who's selling for $16/bottle and was willing to ship to the US. I am awaiting my shipping quote
I have gotten a response back from the guy who has the KDM diff fluid. For 2 bottles via FedEx it's $80 shipping to Southern California. Might ask for two more bottles for the hell of it.
Edit: I am chickening out and playing it safe going the AMSOil route. I rather spend $60 on something that seems to be proven to work vs $110 on oil that allegedly will work better than what we get in the US. I will gladly hand the link to anyone who is interested in actually obtaining this stuff.
Lucas Syn 75w90 works perfect. Drained and replaced my rear dif fluid a month ago. No noises, chatters,rrrrrrr’s, or grinding. Just really smooth as it should be. And it’s a 2019 GT1 rwd w/ 72k miles
Howdy team... I have always had quick street cars and over serviced them myself, as always this forum has a plethora of information so anyway, what are your thoughts on this oil for my RWD?
Nulon Premium Mineral 85W-140 Limited Slip Differential Oil (LSD85W140) is developed for limited slip differential applications to withstand high loads and repeated shock-load conditions. Also ideal for conventional differentials and vehicles that operate under heavy duty conditions such as 4x4...
www.ebay.com.au
I ask because KIA gave me that blank stare when i asked for SK HK JL Syn LSD Gear Oil 75W85 PLUS" with a part number of 02100-00121 for my car a few weeks ago.
I want to change my oil while i am fitting the BMS diff brace
Quick question: is it ok to change my rear diff fluid with (only) the rear of the car jacked up? Or does the car need to be on level ground? I only have a couple of rhino ramps.
Quick question: is it ok to change my rear diff fluid with (only) the rear of the car jacked up? Or does the car need to be on level ground? I only have a couple of rhino ramps.
Yes, I jacked mine up from the driver's side rear corner and took the tire off. It was just high enough off the ground for the tire to slide underneath the car next to the jack.
The difference in the amount you can put in from it being on jacks would be minimal, I use my quickjacks for everything so it raises the whole car level.
If you are concerned measure what you drain out and make sure its close to same as you put back in. I think the rear is around a quart and a half
Im looking for some anecdotes from those that have changed their own rear differential oil, specifically if it was a stinger LSD. I had my stinger in for a diff fluid change at my mechanic's shop (he has no prior experience with stingers) and when attempting to crack the diff drain plug he noted it needed a little more force then he expected. This is the first time the diff has been touched as everything is all original from the factory. Once he did crack the plug free free the first few turns were not smooth, almost like it was binding a little. I saw him doing it, it was all by hand (no air tools) and he didn't do anything crazy but he noted something felt a little "off". He mentioned to me that he would expect to be able to spin it off freely by hand and he was worried it may have been over tightened at the factory or something and didn't want to strip the threads just in case. He tightened everything back up and suggested I take it to the dealer for the diff fluid change in the event the threads were stripped, at least it would be warranty repair and not on my dime.
My question to you all:
Does what I describe seem normal for the stinger? or do you think something is up based on your experience with it?
I see mention but no solid evidence that the diff drain plug may be installed with a red sealant on the threads? Maybe this is why it wasn't smooth backing it off?
Should I bring it back to him to try again or should I over pay at the dealer because something seems wrong here?
Im looking for some anecdotes from those that have changed their own rear differential oil, specifically if it was a stinger LSD. I had my stinger in for a diff fluid change at my mechanic's shop (he has no prior experience with stingers) and when attempting to crack the diff drain plug he noted it needed a little more force then he expected. This is the first time the diff has been touched as everything is all original from the factory. Once he did crack the plug free free the first few turns were not smooth, almost like it was binding a little. I saw him doing it, it was all by hand (no air tools) and he didn't do anything crazy but he noted something felt a little "off". He mentioned to me that he would expect to be able to spin it off freely by hand and he was worried it may have been over tightened at the factory or something and didn't want to strip the threads just in case. He tightened everything back up and suggested I take it to the dealer for the diff fluid change in the event the threads were stripped, at least it would be warranty repair and not on my dime.
My question to you all:
Does what I describe seem normal for the stinger? or do you think something is up based on your experience with it?
I see mention but no solid evidence that the diff drain plug may be installed with a red sealant on the threads? Maybe this is why it wasn't smooth backing it off?
Should I bring it back to him to try again or should I over pay at the dealer because something seems wrong here?