2.0 Aftermarket Amp and sub installed.

Hey man quick question. I have 2018 stinger gt. Regular system not HK. So I basically did the same set up bc I seen it this way on YouTube but on my Stinger it doesn't have the 30amp fuse that u have there or the 15amp fuse at the bottom but one in middle called spare. So this is the thing I tried using the 20amp fuse right next to it bc it's the fuel pump so figured it turned off with the car but the amp won't turn off. So I try the fuse u tried but that 30amp fuse slot doesn't have any metal inside the fuse to make a connection which is weird. Please help if any answers!!!
The goal is to tap a fuse that has 12v when car on and no power when off. I used multimeter to test the fuses. Looks like 18 model that fuse is blank. You can reference this site. I would try the one labeled "amp". Hopefully it works out .
 
so i have a question about the pics where the line converter is being installed are you only hooking the line converter to one speaker even though there is wires for lh and rh on the line converter if so does it work correctly like this?
 
Yes, that's because I only installed one sub.
so i have a question about the pics where the line converter is being installed are you only hooking the line converter to one speaker even though there is wires for lh and rh on the line converter if so does it work correctly like this?
 
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gotcha but say your using a mono channel amp for 2 subs taping the one speaker should still work with a 1 channel amp right
 
I believe so. You'll just have to wire the subs together like this.
 

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gotcha but say your using a mono channel amp for 2 subs taping the one speaker should still work with a 1 channel amp right
I believe so. You'll just have to wire the subs together like this.
Bass frequencies really aren't going to have any stereo separation, so you aren't losing anything by only pulling signal from one side.

Connecting a single channel amp to two subs typically means choosing between wiring in parallel (halving impedance) or series (doubling it). So if you have 4-ohm subs, run them in parallel and make sure the amp is stable down to 2 ohms (if you ran them series, you'd be at 8 ohms and really limit your power). If you have 2-ohm subs, run them in series for a 4-ohm load which most amps can handle (if you ran them in parallel, you'd be at 1 ohms which is very low).

In this example the subs are dual voice coil, so you're effectively wiring 4 speakers to the amp. 2-ohm voice coils in series makes each sub 4 ohms, then subs in parallel brings the overall load back to 2 ohms (I guess you could also run voice coils in parallel, giving you 1-ohm subs, then subs in series to get back to 2 ohms overall).
 
I believe so. You'll just have to wire the subs together like this.
ok nice so i can bridge the speakers instead of the amp to get max rms to both speakers thanks i will try it using just one door speaker hopefully it works if not ill go through the trouble of running the wires for both thanks for all your help
 
ok nice so i can bridge the speakers instead of the amp to get max rms to both speakers thanks i will try it using just one door speaker hopefully it works if not ill go through the trouble of running the wires for both thanks for all your help
No problem. I'm glad this post from 5 years ago is still helping fellow Stinger owners.
 
Bass frequencies really aren't going to have any stereo separation, so you aren't losing anything by only pulling signal from one side.

Connecting a single channel amp to two subs typically means choosing between wiring in parallel (halving impedance) or series (doubling it). So if you have 4-ohm subs, run them in parallel and make sure the amp is stable down to 2 ohms (if you ran them series, you'd be at 8 ohms and really limit your power). If you have 2-ohm subs, run them in series for a 4-ohm load which most amps can handle (if you ran them in parallel, you'd be at 1 ohms which is very low).

In this example the subs are dual voice coil, so you're effectively wiring 4 speakers to the amp. 2-ohm voice coils in series makes each sub 4 ohms, then subs in parallel brings the overall load back to 2 ohms (I guess you could also run voice coils in parallel, giving you 1-ohm subs, then subs in series to get back to 2 ohms overall).
ok so the two subs that i have are 4 ohms but come wired for 2 ohm impedance so they should work fine hooking them straight to the amp and the converter i have is a kicker converter it should work with just hooking it up to one speaker for the input
 
ok so the two subs that i have are 4 ohms but come wired for 2 ohm impedance so they should work fine hooking them straight to the amp and the converter i have is a kicker converter it should work with just hooking it up to one speaker for the input
Do you mean you have two 4-ohm subs, wired together in parallel to produce 2 ohms? Or does each sub have dual 4-ohm voice coils, and those are wired in parallel so that each sub is 2 ohms? If it's the latter, and you wire the subs "straight to the amp" in parallel, you will have a 1 ohm load which will almost certainly be a problem.
 
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Do you mean you have two 4-ohm subs, wired together in parallel to produce 2 ohms? Or does each sub have dual 4-ohm voice coils, and those are wired in parallel so that each sub is 2 ohms? If it's the latter, and you wire the subs "straight to the amp" in parallel, you will have a 1 ohm load which will almost certainly be a problem.
they have a single 2 ohm voice coil each
 
they have a single 2 ohm voice coil each
Gotcha. So the voice coils are wired in series to double each sub to 4 ohms, then the two subs can be wired in parallel to get back to 2 ohms overall.

Or: Amp+ to VC1+, VC1- to VC2+, VC2- to Amp-. Then the same for the other sub.
 
Yes I'm gonna hook them up this weekend so hopefully everything goes smoothly I appreciate your help and keep your phone on you I might need you again lol
 

Gotcha. So the voice coils are wired in series to double each sub to 4 ohms, then the two subs can be wired in parallel to get back to 2 ohms overall.

Or: Amp+ to VC1+, VC1- to VC2+, VC2- to Amp-. Then the same for the other sub.
Thomby I do have one more question on the kicker line converter since I'm only going to use one door speaker to hook it to should I join together the two positives and two negative coming out of the converter then hook then to the door speaker or will just using one side of the converter be enough
 
should I join together the two positives and two negative coming out of the converter
This is a converter from speaker-level signals down to preamp signals to feed your amp? Do you have a link to it?

I'm assuming from your question it's two channel, meaning two independent inputs and corresponding outputs (ie to take full range or highs/mids from the left and right, and feed a two channel amp), so if you're just using a single channel for sub frequencies, it would be one input and its corresponding output.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
It won't let me post a link because I'm new if you google kicker converter it pops right up
 
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This guy? Two channels in and out, you're just only using one of them.

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Hey thromby got another question if u don't mind so I hooked everything up and it worked and sounded great for about 30 mins then the amp shut off checked all the wiring and is good has 12v power hooked to chassis ground and its get the 12v ignition signal with key on i removed the fuses on the amp it's self to check them and there good when I put the fuses back in the amp it powered back on again but not the subs aren't working but the amp is on I checked the subs and there not stuck in place or anything got any ideas
 
when I put the fuses back in the amp it powered back on again but not the subs aren't working but the amp is on
Amp is on but subs aren't playing? Are you using the amp's low pass filter to cut the full range signal down to just the bass? So the only things connected are the line level converter and the amp?

You can narrow things down by:
- Connecting the converter's output to something with an RCA audio input to confirm it's passing a signal
- Connecting something with an RCA audio output to the amp input
- Connecting the amp's output to another speaker
 
Correction! They are black and white!
Hey I know this post is a few years old but I'm hoping someone can help. This comment points out white and black. Well there are two white and two black. And the two black are next to each other along with a white on the bottom side of the plug. Could anyone give a reference pic of the correct wires? I think I've found it with AC volts but it's only pulling around .8 volts with the plug undone to test from the inside. Any help would be appreciated!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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