What is better hot air cai or cool air stock box

Looking for feed back just changed intakes to cai from stock air box with drop in kn. Is cool air better or more air better Feels like stockbox with kn has more torque. Having hard time justifying filters under hood temperatures 140 after ride. I mean car is still pulling hard, but felt stronger with stock box. Any thoughts out there
There are multiple threads discussing this topic and it’s an ongoing debate. Check my thread “DIY intakes w/heat shielding drop about 0.2sec off 0-60.” This describes a simple way to get the best of both worlds.:D More airflow from open air filters, but also heat shielding to keep the filters and air surrounding the filters cool!

However to summarize the stock airbox with or without K&N drop in filters will have better low end torque. The K&Ns won’t make a measurable difference, but you will feel more initial torque with the stock airbox. The cone filter CAI or SRIs will have much better airflow and produce an extra 9-16Hp! This is harder to “feel” but these filters will improve the midrange & high rpm much more than the stock airbox.

Our Stingers already have massive low end torque but tend to fall off early. So the cone filters or CAIs help the top end which is exactly where we need it most.:thumbup:

Hope this helps and happy tuning!
 
Looking for feed back just changed intakes to cai from stock air box with drop in kn. Is cool air better or more air better Feels like stockbox with kn has more torque. Having hard time justifying filters under hood temperatures 140 after ride. I mean car is still pulling hard, but felt stronger with stock box. Any thoughts out there
Had my 2018 GT2 RWD Dyno before and after installing K&N CAI. The K&N added 9 HP and 9 ft. lbs. of torque this was done on a 98 degree day in Houston and the engine bay was hot. The sound was a nice plus for the CAI.
 
Looking for feed back just changed intakes to cai from stock air box with drop in kn. Is cool air better or more air better Feels like stockbox with kn has more torque. Having hard time justifying filters under hood temperatures 140 after ride. I mean car is still pulling hard, but felt stronger with stock box. Any thoughts out there

Keep the stock box. add a drop in filter from reputable company. these days stock intakes are very well engineered and built. save the money on an intercooler
 
______________________________
Couple of things to be aware of for dyno numbers.
1. Not many people have proper airflow for Dyno testing. your next door dyno (mom&pop) doesnt have correct airflow equipment.
2. Dyno numbers are just numbers you can shoot for the highest number and detune.
3. Dyno understand the variables. IE atmospheric pressures (how far above or under sea level), temp of day, humidity, what gear pull, what fuel.
4. for tuning you can mess with 1 area, then you might have a loss in another area.

Either way. $500 intake doesnt justify 9hp gain when intercooler and tune can do more effectiveness
 
Couple of things to be aware of for dyno numbers.
1. Not many people have proper airflow for Dyno testing. your next door dyno (mom&pop) doesnt have correct airflow equipment.
2. Dyno numbers are just numbers you can shoot for the highest number and detune.
3. Dyno understand the variables. IE atmospheric pressures (how far above or under sea level), temp of day, humidity, what gear pull, what fuel.
4. for tuning you can mess with 1 area, then you might have a loss in another area.

Either way. $500 intake doesnt justify 9hp gain when intercooler and tune can do more effectiveness

Tune costs $500-700. it also voids the KIA 100,000 mile warranty. I only get a tune After manufacturers warranty. In case of my Stinger GT2 RWD that will be at 100,001 miles. By then there will be plenty to Performance options
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Tune costs $500-700. it also voids the KIA 100,000 mile warranty. I only get a tune After manufacturers warranty. In case of my Stinger GT2 RWD that will be at 100,001 miles. By then there will be plenty to Performance options
To avoid voiding warranty. You can get a piggyback. I use Concept 3 Performance, ByteTronik Piggyback, works great. Requirements are catch can and hks spark plugs. Honestly felt a big difference in power and its plug and play.
 
Biggest notable bolt on gain I think I instantly felt was this on my Camaro! Don't know if something like this could be produced for the stinger as I haven't received my car yet to see in the engine bay.
Edit! Sorry not allowed to post images yet but they're ram air systems SSRA or FTRA that pull cold air from under the car up into the intake.
 
I had Racechip w k&n panels and switched to tork ECU tune. Tune feels like a big low end tourqe increase and 60 foot times support this. I've written about this in "who is ready to get tuned thread" and or the 1/4 mile thread but my cat back, tune , panel filter car is slower than another AWD GT2 with stock exhaust, same tune, and tork intakes. (Even with times normalized for weather and at the same track) Peak HP is essentially the same but the intake car pulls harder in the high RPM, has less power drop approaching redline. I think the intake car is about .05 faster but its all after the 1/8 th mile.
I guess you should test using obd app, draggy or a track but pretty sure the intake should be faster.
 
Keep the stock box. add a drop in filter from reputable company. these days stock intakes are very well engineered and built. save the money on an intercooler
Sorry, but I respectfully disagree and appreciate if you wouldn’t spread misinformation.

The stock intake box is well known as one of the most restrictive OEM parts in our Stingers. This has been discussed, documented and tested by many tuners & individuals alike. Also, if you remove the intake box you can see for yourself that all the air is fed through a small rectangular 1”x3” air inlet. This is far from efficient and was obviously designed for sound & emission control over performance.

Its also a known fact that gains of 10-15Hp are easily achievable by simply replacing the stock intake box & filter.:thumbup:

I do agree that comparing separate dynos is inaccurate, but multiple people using different dynos with different variables ALL achieve gains in power. A few people have even dropped 0.1-0.2 seconds off 0-60 & 1/4m simply by removing the restrictions of the stock intake.

This cannot be said for drop-in filters as they have no documented gains, even from the manufacturers.

Bottle line, drop-in filters are not intended to increase power and are simply made to offer an efficient reusable filter.

No offense to anyone but the facts are clear. The stock airbox is well made, but it’s inefficient and restrictive. CAI/SRI or any open air high flow intake will remove restrictions that hurt the Stingers top end power.:thumbup:

More power, and awesome turbo sounds is a win win for me, but to each their own and happy tuning!
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I think we should watch the turbo motor video since we have turbo engine?

In the myth bust vid i think they just supported the 15 hp Stinger intake claims. Stock ave of two runs was 225, cold air 232. 7 hp on 225 hp car. Seems reasonable to double that on a 340-400 wheel hp car. Plus that stock intake looked better than ours.
They did myth bust the 20% gains but no one is claiming that on the stingers. On Stingers i have seen 30 Hp gains near redline.
 
Sorry, but I respectfully disagree and appreciate if you wouldn’t spread misinformation.

The stock intake box is well known as one of the most restrictive OEM parts in our Stingers. This has been discussed, documented and tested by many tuners & individuals alike. Also, if you remove the intake box you can see for yourself that all the air is fed through a small rectangular 1”x3” air inlet. This is far from efficient and was obviously designed for sound & emission control over performance.

Its also a known fact that gains of 10-15Hp are easily achievable by simply replacing the stock intake box & filter.:thumbup:

I do agree that comparing separate dynos is inaccurate, but multiple people using different dynos with different variables ALL achieve gains in power. A few people have even dropped 0.1-0.2 seconds off 0-60 & 1/4m simply by removing the restrictions of the stock intake.

This cannot be said for drop-in filters as they have no documented gains, even from the manufacturers.

Bottle line, drop-in filters are not intended to increase power and are simply made to offer an efficient reusable filter.

No offense to anyone but the facts are clear. The stock airbox is well made, but it’s inefficient and restrictive. CAI/SRI or any open air high flow intake will remove restrictions that hurt the Stingers top end power.:thumbup:

More power, and awesome turbo sounds is a win win for me, but to each their own and happy tuning!

I understand where you are coming from, i admit i am wrong in terms of gain. Do you not agree a intercooler would benefit more over an aftermarket intake? If anything then just take of the filter and put in the random intake head on the intake pipings save you some money.
 
I was looking at stock set up today on gt in front of air boxes. Has anybody thought of piping through that opening and putting shorty air filters in that spot next to radiator where the stock air scoops are. That would solve under hood heat problems. Any comments on this idea?
 
I understand where you are coming from, i admit i am wrong in terms of gain. Do you not agree a intercooler would benefit more over an aftermarket intake? If anything then just take of the filter and put in the random intake head on the intake pipings save you some money.
I know intercoolers are helpful, but not sure what the power gains are to compare to intakes. I think they’re also about 10x the price of my intakes. So bang for the buck its hard to beat 15Hp for $100.;)
Has anybody thought of piping through that opening and putting shorty air filters in that spot next to radiator where the stock air scoops are. That would solve under hood heat problems. Any comments on this idea?
Interesting idea and may work well if you could connect everything easily. Worth a try if someone wants to engineer connections, etc.:thumbup:
 
Last edited:
IMO: (This only applies to FI cars. NA is totally different)

Thing is this, you want to get the most VOLUME of air available from intakes. This thought is why people consistently will achieve better track results running a "no filter" setup. The filter is a restriction. Air intakes on FI vehicles are attached to turbos which are literally attached to exhaust manifolds (AKA hot as shit area). It is literally impossible to achieve a "CAI" like NA motors can.
(Edit: Our Kia doesn't allow this. I have seen other cars, by design, allow you to put filters in fender wells/front brake scoops/etc.., but these access holes are few and far between)

All air will be passed through said turbos attached to said exhaust manifolds so any marginal reduction in temps will be negated depending on how hot the turbos are.

Where you want to focus is downstream AKA the Intercooler. This is the place where any reduction of air temps will happen prior to entering the manifolds for combustion. This is also why people will hook up water/No2/w/e sprayers to the front which will literally spray the cooler to cool the metal down (thus cooling the air passing through it.) IMO, the more surface area the better, and it really is OK if the entire fin face doesn't get hit with fresh moving air, not a PERFECT scenario, but is just fine none the less (for average joes).

Dont misunderstand, colder is always better, but for us and IMO, being able to cycle quickly (soak and dissipation) is vastly more important than trying to reduce a few c @ the intakes.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I had put this in another thread, I think it fits here also...

•The oem airbox uses the factory air ducts that become a restriction/ bottleneck when more volume of air is needed, you can remove the snorkel to make the airflow more efficient or make the air ducts bigger going into oem airbox and/or oem airbox mod that's on the internet with a drop in filter and be done with it... that's how you do it on a budget, your limit is the surface area of the drop in filter. Plus its quite.

• Diy cone filters mod, cone filters have more surface area for more volume of air to be used it still uses oem plastic piping. It still uses oem air duct but sucks in more hot air from engine bay. Great budget mod sounds loud, great at night and cold days, if made without heat shield performance goes down on hot days or track days.

• Aftermarket intakes usally used larger intake piping and cone filters, so far there is no completely sealed intake on the market like the oem airbox for the stinger and I doubt they will make one. Aftermarket intakes do there best to block out radiant heat from the engine bay but still sucks in some hot air from the sides or bottom even if used with the oem air duct. You will also have to consider the materials used to make the intake and components, my preference would be with the least amount of metals that will retain heat. And I will remove the oem snorkel like the JT intake but without the bracket ...

It's all about preference, form over function , function over form, or form and function. Its just an intake, it all depends how much you want to spend(if your not diy friendly) for a small difference in HP on different aftermarket intakes companies.
Me personally I will focus more on the intercooler and full exhaust then worry about some hot air coming in through small openings around the intake. If you were to go big on the turbos would that be a concern?
 
______________________________
Took my GT2 in for a oil change. And was informed that my K&N intakes will void my warranty especially if anything happens to the turbos.
 
Took my GT2 in for a oil change. And was informed that my K&N intakes will void my warranty especially if anything happens to the turbos.

First, ask that person if they actually believe the shit spewing from their mouth. Secondly, find a new dealer and downvote that place.
 
Took my GT2 in for a oil change. And was informed that my K&N intakes will void my warranty especially if anything happens to the turbos.
drop ins or typhoon? I've always found dealers to be large crocks of sh$t when it comes to this stuff. When I first got my G37 years ago, on my 1st oil change I was already on coils/19s/exhaust/and k&n drop ins (until the CAI came out) - i asked the service tech about warranty and he laughs "dude don't worry about that, nothing you have is all that crazy"...well except the coils could bring up some issues, but nothing else.
 
Intercooling !! the member/members that are informing us about intercoolers are spot on!! Wash
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Back
Top