Who else has had warped rotors?

Brake vibration can be attributed to the following:

Warp rotor( Washing when disc are hot, defect in rotor material, poor material used for rotor, overheating the disc).

Uneven brake pad deposit on rotors(frequent brake grab due to brakes being used on and off. Preferably use brakes with consistent and gradual pressure for even distribution of pad and disc wear).

Uneven wheel nut torque(Wheel nut are tighten when car is on the ground with uneven tightening torque and pattern do tighten wheel nut in a star distribution for even torque distribution not forgetting preferably with torque wrench).

The above are based on my experiences and since I corrected my cars have not encountered any vibration of such. Hope it helps.
 
I don't believe that the Stinger scrimps on the important stuff; the safety and performance stuff. So, no warped rotors on Stingers. Deposits, yes. Poor braking practices will bring on rough, lumpy feeling brakes, and more besides I am sure! And for sure, putting your wheels on improperly will result in the "warped rotor" feel. But these brakes are the "best". :) Unless or until I discover otherwise, I'm sticking to that.
 
Guys it’s not deposits or poor braking practice with Brembo equipped cars. There is an actual brembo rotor warp problem.
 
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Guys it’s not deposits or poor braking practice with Brembo equipped cars. There is an actual brembo rotor warp problem.
How do you know this so emphatically?
 
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Wearing down the surface of the rotor and making harder spots in the metal stay slightly raised off the surface. The reason that brakes don't normally wear down very much revolves around a fairly straightforward concept. Since the metal of the rotor is harder than the brake pad applying friction to it, the pad wears down while the rotor remains largely unaffected. With excessive heat, the metal becomes soft enough for the pad to wear down the rotor surface. This means that slightly less dense spots in the metal wear down faster and make the harder spots stick out, causing warping.

Wasn't this refuted already earlier in this thread? And so it goes: "knowledge" going forward is such a personal thing ....
 
Getting the rotor hot enough for that to happen is virtually impossible in a regular automobile. You'd boil away your fluid long before that would happen. It's been seen - rarely - in race vehicles with traditional steel rotors.
 
Rotors don’t actually “warp” but that’s common term for poor wear charctheriics caused by defect in rotor or even in alignment of rotor on the hub. There is an issue with Brembos on many of our gt2s. Specific cause hasn’t been revealed but it isn’t friction material accumulating on rotor or incorrectly tightened as suggested by some.
 
Rotors don’t actually “warp” but that’s common term for poor wear charctheriics caused by defect in rotor or even in alignment of rotor on the hub. There is an issue with Brembos on many of our gt2s. Specific cause hasn’t been revealed but it isn’t friction material accumulating on rotor or incorrectly tightened as suggested by some.
Here we go again. "Many". Okay, define that, if you will. Some, a few, rarely, it happens, it's a machine and sh*t happens. I believe that. But I call for evidence to support "There is an issue with Brembos on many of our gt2s." Why did you stop there? All three trims of GT have Brembo brakes. If a mechanic puts your wheels back on like an ultra maroon that is not Brembo's fault. If you are asserting that this problem with "many" Stingers is because of defects i.e. poor materials I am not believing it. If that were the case, then Kia would have cheaped out all through the car and we definitely would have "many" failures of all parts of the car. I only hear of failures on this forum of course. I haven't even seen a single Stinger "in the wild" yet, so other than here, I have no other Stingers to compare mine to. This is the best car I've ever driven and I still have money in the bank.
 
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How do you know this so emphatically?
Perhaps because I have raced and worked on my cars for decades and understand what causes rotors to wear incorrectly. I probably was bedding in pads before many on this site were born lol! No deposits on my rotors and evenly torqued lugs on my car yet crazy uneven wear. There is something else at play. Either uneven hub mount surface or some sort of a defect in rotor itself that causes uneven wearing. It’s not unimaginable that there is a different root cause than some are suggesting.

Or maybe incorrect torque specs from factory as I was getting uneven wear before I pulled wheels off from factory.

And believe me when I say I’m careful about torque specs as I run $20k ceramic rotors on my race car. Sort of makes one extra careful regardless of how expensive rotors are.

...But today with google some are instant “experts” . Lol
 
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Rotors don’t actually “warp” but that’s common term for poor wear charctheriics caused by defect in rotor or even in alignment of rotor on the hub. There is an issue with Brembos on many of our gt2s. Specific cause hasn’t been revealed but it isn’t friction material accumulating on rotor or incorrectly tightened as suggested by some.

Most problems on this forum were attributed to improper pad bedding and poor break-in technique. With this being the most likely scenario, and with no reason to think it is anything else, why do you feel it is something else? Also, if you think that improper hub alignment is a possible cause (incredibly rare btw) why do you rule out improper lug torque/technique? They would both result in the same outcome and the cause would be indistinguishable without a forensic examination of the rotor and hub. To my knowledge, this has not been conducted by a forum member. Are you aware of any?
 
Let me ask this question, are we certain the rotors are in fact Brembo? I think I read or heard someplace that the Brembo rotors were only on cars for the Korean market and the rest got H/K rotors. I have watched a lot of Korean videos on this car and i’ve seen a few on lifts with folks going over them and I noticed that the Korean suspension have better aluminum parts than the US cars. Seemed like the build quality is a bit better for that car to wear that double “E” badge in the home market. Maybe the Korean owners can speak on this.
 
...But today with google some are instant “experts” . Lol
Indeed we are. ;) But I don't have a problem with YOUR car having a problem. I take issue with your assertion that Many Of Our GT2s have a problem with the Brembos. Who else is legitimately complaining about their Brembos? This is even more uncommon than the paint chipping issue (heh! you might say, the paint chipping is a problem on many Stingers, but I don't believe it is).
 
In dealing with this issue myself, I've come to discover that rotors don't actually warp, but rather pad material buildup on the rotor surface causes pulsating when brakes are applied. I'll leave it at that for now.

I started getting steering pulsation when applying brakes, especially deceleration from high speed (78 mph) on my 2,500 mile trip. Car had about 6200 miles when I first noticed. Taking to dealer tomorrow for check & early 7500 mile warranty check. Let y'all know what they find.
 
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Rotors don't warp but they can wear unevenly (known as disc thickness variation - DTV) which is why you will get the pulsating when brakes are applied. Especially noticeable on down hill braking, even very gentle braking. DTV has nothing whatsoever to do with how you bed the brakes in and it is more common on some models of vehicles than others.

If the brake rotor has excessive run out you will get DTV sooner or later. It does not matter if you put new rotors and pads on, if there is still excessive run out on the brake rotor once fitted you will get DTV back again in 5-10000 miles. So if you have a DTV problem the first thing you need to do is to either machine the rotor or replace it and then when fitted check for runout. You will need to replace the pads also. If you find excessive runout on the brake rotor then the seating of the rotor on the hub needs to be checked because that could be the cause if it is not sitting true. If not the cause, the hub itself needs to be checked for runout because it may not be rotating true and once the rotor is fitted there will be excessive runout and DTV will be the result.


If this is true, why isn’t it apparent from the start? Usually this becomes noticeable when the brakes get hot and cold or lack of heat dissipation or rapid cooling. I’m not convinced that this is a problem of thickness variation. I have seen the problem on Optimas reoccur after being cut and pads replaced. I’m not by any means saying you are wrong but I have seen it reoccurring after even after cut and pad replacement as well as having rotors mic’d.
 
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Just replaced my front rotors at 4500 miles and cut the rears. Had a wicked vibration in the steering wheel and couldn’t take it anymore. I guess there are many opinions as to why and how, perhaps it is a combination of many things. I did take notice to how much smaller the rear is opposed to the front due to emphasis on front braking being greater than rear but they are relatively small. I would like to see slotted and drilled rotors available. Would definetly help with heat dissipation and better performance than stock. I personally like the Brembo’s and Willwood also.
 
Just replaced my front rotors at 4500 miles and cut the rears. Had a wicked vibration in the steering wheel and couldn’t take it anymore. I guess there are many opinions as to why and how, perhaps it is a combination of many things. I did take notice to how much smaller the rear is opposed to the front due to emphasis on front braking being greater than rear but they are relatively small. I would like to see slotted and drilled rotors available. Would definetly help with heat dissipation and better performance than stock. I personally like the Brembo’s and Willwood also.

Did Kia cover them under warranty? I sick of the shakes on mine and curious about the out of pocket cost.
 
Did Kia cover them under warranty? I sick of the shakes on mine and curious about the out of pocket cost.
They replaced mine free
I think if you only have 3-5k it's free
May still be free if you have lot more miles nothing to lose by calling up the dealership to have them note it on their system. I'd bet they change for free.
 
I had my pads replaced and rotors resurfaced under warranty, they said the rotors had "blue spots" due to excessive heat, not really sure how that happened but anyways i spoke to a corporate rep and she said theyd replace the entire kit if it happens again. This happened on my gt1 10/17 build if that helps anyone.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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