Aftermarket Sub Installation Planning / HK Amp Pinout?

WildBill

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The long and sort of it, is that I'm a little disappointed in the lack of "punch" of the HK audio system. So I'm gathering things to hopefully install some subs I have laying around this weekend.

Pulled these vintage pieces out of storage. An Infinity Kappa 102a 100 watt x 2 amp which is bridgeable and 1 ohm stable and a pair of Cadence Shockwave 10" low enclosure volume (similar to solo barics) 4ohm DVC subs. The 4 ohm DVCs from each sub are wired in parallel yielding 2 ohms and then the two subs are wired in parallel to yield a 1 ohm load. Then the amp is run with the 2 channels bridged at 1 ohm so, from what I recall, it will run an equivalent of 800+ watts to the speakers.

I've ordered an AudioControl LC2i line out converter which will de-amplify, and massage the signal for the amp.

41287630735_47c9dc7e6d_z.jpg


Does anyone have or can they get the pinout for the HK amplifier? It is part# 96370-J5000

In the subwoofer issues thread @AV8R posted a schematic but it seems to be missing the page for the HK system.

Do you think they would be the same plugs for both systems? If I can't find anything I guess I will sit there with an AA or 9V battery and see if I can find wire pairs that make the speakers go crack.

Once I get wire pairs identified I'll need to find out if it's better to use the signal from the subs or the rear doors. The subs would have a low pass crossover point set so I'd prefer not to use them. The only question remains, do the speakers in the doors receive full range signal or do they have a high pass filter to remove the bass frequencies that the subwoofer will produce...
 
I have another 48 hours left on my access to Kia Tech, remind me tomorrow and I’ll try and look it up.
 
everything was posted on the subwoofer thread, pin outs, speaker locations, instructions etc...
 
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The long and sort of it, is that I'm a little disappointed in the lack of "punch" of the HK audio system. So I'm gathering things to hopefully install some subs I have laying around this weekend.

Pulled these vintage pieces out of storage. An Infinity Kappa 102a 100 watt x 2 amp which is bridgeable and 1 ohm stable and a pair of Cadence Shockwave 10" low enclosure volume (similar to solo barics) 4ohm DVC subs. The 4 ohm DVCs from each sub are wired in parallel yielding 2 ohms and then the two subs are wired in parallel to yield a 1 ohm load. Then the amp is run with the 2 channels bridged at 1 ohm so, from what I recall, it will run an equivalent of 800+ watts to the speakers.

I've ordered an AudioControl LC2i line out converter which will de-amplify, and massage the signal for the amp.

41287630735_47c9dc7e6d_z.jpg


Does anyone have or can they get the pinout for the HK amplifier? It is part# 96370-J5000

In the subwoofer issues thread @AV8R posted a schematic but it seems to be missing the page for the HK system.

Do you think they would be the same plugs for both systems? If I can't find anything I guess I will sit there with an AA or 9V battery and see if I can find wire pairs that make the speakers go crack.

Once I get wire pairs identified I'll need to find out if it's better to use the signal from the subs or the rear doors. The subs would have a low pass crossover point set so I'd prefer not to use them. The only question remains, do the speakers in the doors receive full range signal or do they have a high pass filter to remove the bass frequencies that the subwoofer will produce...
Ive got the diagrams as PDF on my iPad in iBooks but I can’t load it onto here. Pm me your email and I will send what I have. The PDF shows allocation for each pin to each speaker and the plugs . Any use?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Ive got the diagrams as PDF on my iPad in iBooks but I can’t load it onto here. Pm me your email and I will send what I have. The PDF shows allocation for each pin to each speaker and the plugs . Any use?

I think more owners are interested in that.
You could make screenshots on iPad. Those can be posted here.
 
The long and sort of it, is that I'm a little disappointed in the lack of "punch" of the HK audio system. So I'm gathering things to hopefully install some subs I have laying around this weekend.

Pulled these vintage pieces out of storage. An Infinity Kappa 102a 100 watt x 2 amp which is bridgeable and 1 ohm stable and a pair of Cadence Shockwave 10" low enclosure volume (similar to solo barics) 4ohm DVC subs. The 4 ohm DVCs from each sub are wired in parallel yielding 2 ohms and then the two subs are wired in parallel to yield a 1 ohm load. Then the amp is run with the 2 channels bridged at 1 ohm so, from what I recall, it will run an equivalent of 800+ watts to the speakers.

I've ordered an AudioControl LC2i line out converter which will de-amplify, and massage the signal for the amp.

41287630735_47c9dc7e6d_z.jpg


Does anyone have or can they get the pinout for the HK amplifier? It is part# 96370-J5000

In the subwoofer issues thread @AV8R posted a schematic but it seems to be missing the page for the HK system.

Do you think they would be the same plugs for both systems? If I can't find anything I guess I will sit there with an AA or 9V battery and see if I can find wire pairs that make the speakers go crack.

Once I get wire pairs identified I'll need to find out if it's better to use the signal from the subs or the rear doors. The subs would have a low pass crossover point set so I'd prefer not to use them. The only question remains, do the speakers in the doors receive full range signal or do they have a high pass filter to remove the bass frequencies that the subwoofer will produce...
Actually the one you have given the link too is the one I have.
 
everything was posted on the subwoofer thread, pin outs, speaker locations, instructions etc...
Are you referring to the thread I linked to in the initial post or is there another?

Actually the one you have given the link too is the one I have.

Am I reading that wrong? It looks like page 1 and 2 give the pinout for the Mobie system which I assume is the base system. At the end of page 2 it starts the pinout of the HK system but page 3 is missing.

Its a 10 page PDF but pages 1 and 2 say 1 of 3, 2 of 3, but page 3 is not page 3 of 3, it starts a different document on speaker removal.

That's my question, You think the wiring harnesses the same between the systems?
 
Are you referring to the thread I linked to in the initial post or is there another?



Am I reading that wrong? It looks like page 1 and 2 give the pinout for the Mobie system which I assume is the base system. At the end of page 2 it starts the pinout of the HK system but page 3 is missing.

Its a 10 page PDF but pages 1 and 2 say 1 of 3, 2 of 3, but page 3 is not page 3 of 3, it starts a different document on speaker removal.

That's my question, You think the wiring harnesses the same between the systems?
Not sure that’s how I got it from another member .
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
8D19779E-A98F-48A4-855C-754013CFACC4.webp
 
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Anyone know what the difference between Amplifier SPDIF (High) and Amplifier SPDIF (Low) is? Same question for Multimedia-CAN (High/Low)

If someone has a full pdf manual please forward it.
 
I believe the multi-channel audio is sent from the head unit to the amp via two wires, SFDIF+ & SPDIF- (previously I stated in other threads that it was over the CAN bus but I now believe that is incorrect)

I assume you are looking to bypass the factory amp. With some hardcore work you could possibly solder the SPDIF leads onto a coax connector and find some multi-channel receiver to decode the digital signal and then run those into amps. But to my knowledge that is uncharted territory. Note, by doing this you likely loose the navigation voice, various beeps, collision warnings, etc. from being heard.
 
Thanks! You saying the low wire was (-) cleared up an issue I was having.

Going from SPDIF +/- to a coaxial connector and running that through a cheap coax to toslink spdif converter works for clean audio over toslink into my JL amplifier. What does not work is any fading or volume control from the head unit. Anyone know how those items are communicated from the head unit to the factory amplifier? My amp can merge in speaker level outputs so I can add in the nav/beeps and bops after I get the basics working.
 
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No, I think you are blazing a trail that none have taken thus far.

I have not read of anyone going this route on any of the Stinger forums or FB groups I follow.

Good luck!

Edit: Oh and what amp are you using?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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