How to avoid blown spark plugs in your tuned Stinger

[Tonkabob]

Have you seem the Tork Motorsports spark replacement video? Looks a bit scary but very doable if you take your time.

 

[Kamauxx]

I think everyone will eventually come to realize this is something that NEEDS to be done with tunes (JB4, LAP3, RaceChip, Nickthenewguy) So far every single vendor has told customers that the chip will work with unmodified Stingers only to have customers suffer spark plug/coil damage. Some have admitted the tunes are in Beta and thorough testing hasn't been completed. Some claim cars have been tested ad nauseam with no issues.

@Kia Stinger is it possible to have this information posted on all vendor's "tunes for sale" posts? At the very least that will give potential consumers a warning of what MAY happen if they install a tune without re-gapping plugs. It will also let potential customers factor in the added cost/time of re-gapping their plugs when deciding on getting a tune.

 

[ihatecats78]

I think everyone will eventually come to realize this is something that NEEDS to be done with tunes (JB4, LAP3, RaceChip, Nickthenewguy) So far every single vendor has told customers that the chip will work with unmodified Stingers only to have customers suffer spark plug/coil damage. Some have admitted the tunes are in Beta and thorough testing hasn't been completed. Some claim cars have been tested ad nauseam with no issues.

@Kia Stinger is it possible to have this information posted on all vendor's "tunes for sale" posts? At the very least that will give potential consumers a warning of what MAY happen if they install a tune without re-gapping plugs.

For the record, the guy who had issues with the RaceChip tune admitted that he was running 91 octane in race mode (which is recommended for 93+ octane only).. RaceChip has actually had zero issues when customers are using their product as recommended.

 

[Kamauxx]

For the record, the guy who had issues with the RaceChip tune admitted that he was running 91 octane in race mode (which is recommended for 93+ octane only).. RaceChip has actually had zero issues when customers are using their product as recommended.

Well there's another disclaimer that can be added to the posts.

Regardless, I think it will be beneficial to vendors and customers alike if this thread is added to for sale posts.

A simple "Attention: Installation of this product has the potential for damaging stock vehicle's spark plugs or coil packs. Re-gapping your spark plugs is recommended. Please see ____ thread for more information" would go a long way.

Easy peasy.

 

[RwYeAsNt]

For the record, the guy who had issues with the RaceChip tune admitted that he was running 91 octane in race mode (which is recommended for 93+ octane only).. RaceChip has actually had zero issues when customers are using their product as recommended.

Let me remind you all that this recommendation was made AFTER I had brought up my issues. With due respect to RaceChip, they seem to have mixed up their history.

I have no problems or ill-intent towards RaceChip. I'm confident the chip will be a good solution for many and I'm not upset about my issues, I knew I was an early adopter and basicaly beta testing the chip. I'm glad my issues have been acknowledge and that RaceChip has since changed their requirements, but let's not change history. Prior to my issues, there were no recommendations other than the vehicle being in stock condition. Now people on multiple forums are claiming I'm just an idiot who didn't follow instructions... people, the posts all have dates on them.

 

[ihatecats78]

Let me remind you all that this recommendation was made AFTER I had brought up my issues. With due respect to RaceChip, they seem to have mixed up their history.

I have no problems or ill-intent towards RaceChip. I'm confident the chip will be a good solution for many and I'm not upset about my issues, I knew I was an early adopter and basicaly beta testing the chip. I'm glad my issues have been acknowledge and that RaceChip has since changed their requirements, but let's not change history. Prior to my issues, there were no recommendations other than the vehicle being in stock condition. Now people are multiple forums are claiming I'm just an idiot who didn't follow instructions... people, the posts all have dates on them.

I didn't check any dates prior to making that last post, and I apologize here (and on another forum) for making it seem like you were somehow at fault for using your product as you understood it at the time. I purchased the RaceChip as well, and when I purchased it, the website stated that race mode was designed for 93-98 octane. I just assumed that it was always posted on their website that way.

 

[Tonkabob]

The 93 octane recommendation is new. Wasn't there when I bought mine either. And between the nebulous choice of Sport or Race, for a device that is customized for your car, who wouldn't pick Race? I'm enjoying the Race Chip (and just ordered plugs just in case) but agree the info on the website and the instructions included could be more precise. Glad they have made some updates.

 

[iclicku]

With my JB4 en route, I went ahead and purchased a set of HKS M40iL plugs. I picked them up locally from Tork Motorsports for $158 including tax. I know I could have gotten them cheaper online but I wanted to help out a local shop. I got a quote from TorkMS to install the plugs for $175 for 1.5 hrs of labor. I wanted them to change my plugs for me I couldn't find a time for them to do it. I decided to bite the bullet and install them myself.

Man what a PITA! Took me 3.5 hrs to change the plugs even while following Torks DIY video (the video was very helpful.) I also stripped one of the bolts on the manifold. Luckily I was able to remove it and buy a replacement at Autozone immediately. I completed the task without any power tools. BTW, I am NOT mechanically inclined. I hanve't even changed my own oil before. I watched Tork's video 10 times trying to get the steps down right and all. But it still was a nightmare and now my back is killing me! I'm just glad it's over with.

OK, so I checked the stock plugs and this is what they looked like.

Like many have already mentioned, the gap on these NGK's are at .36 or so

Here are the HKS vs. the stock

The HKS come out of the box at .25-.26 gap. The qaulity/accuracy from HKS looks great.

Put the car back together and started her up and luckily the car didn't blow up. Went for a test drive and all seems well. Now I can't wait for my JB4 to come in on Monday!

TL;DR
IF you're not a gear head, please do yourself a favor and just pay trusted local shop to do it for you. It's not worth the backache, unless you actually like wrenching.

 

[Kamauxx]

Good job man. You saved yourself some money and I'm sure you learned a lot.

The aches were pretty bad for me too. I did mine Friday and my calves/lower back just stopped hurting yesterday.

 

[iclicku]

Good job man. You saved yourself some money and I'm sure you learned a lot.

The aches were pretty bad for me too. I did mine Friday and my calves/lower back just stopped hurting yesterday.

Sure, I saved some money and that's a small consolation. But getting your hands and elbows dirty for the first time is a valuable experience. One that I will probably forgo the next time comes around...lol

 

[Kamauxx]

Sure, I saved some money and that's a small consolation. But getting your hands and elbows dirty for the first time is a valuable experience. One that I will probably forgo the next time comes around...lol

I enjoy the challenging stuff. It's therapudic. I'll most likely forego doing my own oil changes because my 35 yr old body loves gravity--getting down on the ground is fine, getting up sucks.

 

[Ucinn]

Wait until 55 if you think gravity sucks now...lol

 

[Kamauxx]

Wait until 55 if you think gravity sucks now...lol

I hear that! After nearly 12 years of being abused by the Marine Corps I think my body is in it's 50s.

 

[JohnG7]

Wait until 55 if you think gravity sucks now...lol

Keep waiting, it get's worse.

 

[GTB]

Has anyone thought that Kia purposely gapped the plugs large to prevent people from tuning and if they decide to tune they'll have to re-gap? When I did the spark plug re-gap I noticed tamper paint and tape all over everything, This means they're watching.

 

[Kamauxx]

Has anyone thought that Kia purposely gapped the plugs large to prevent people from tuning and if they decide to tune they'll have to re-gap? When I did the spark plug re-gap I noticed tamper paint and tape all over everything, This means they're watching.

For any warranty work they'll still have to prove something was done to break a part. Taking the manifold/coils off won't be enough proof...hopefully...

 

[GTB]

For any warranty work they'll still have to prove something was done to break a part. Taking the manifold/coils off won't be enough proof...hopefully...

Hopefully

 

[iclicku]

I believe plugs aren't recommended to be changed until 45k or so. Don't remember off the top of my head. But if you ruined your stock plugs AFTER gapping them down due to a tune then you might run into some issues...

 

[Kazz]

IF I go with a chip, and if I feel a need to change plugs, I'll probably wait until the 45K change comes and bring my own into the dealership and talk directly with the tech. He's a rock star and we have a great relationship as he's the Evo tech, as well. He'll shoot straight. He does also acknowledge that warranty claims can sometimes get burned. More reason I'm not keen on doing anything soon.

 

[Sensibly Spirited Driver]

I literally understood nothing in this entire thread, lol. I’ll take that as a sign to leave my car stock.

After watching the one hour long video on changing the sparks in a GT, I'm in agreement with you there. It took 5 minutes to change plugs in my previous cars. It's (normally) one of the simpler maintenance tasks. Needing to remove the intake manifold to access the plugs is pretty wild. As for gapping, the NGK plugs I used all came pre-gapped for my Saab. Always trying to outdo itself, often with overly complex stuff, Saab used a "Trionic" system, which obviated the need for a traditional anti-knock setup, but it made the precise gapping of the plugs important, as well as the material. When I first got that car, a friend recommended some NGK iridiums. My coils were dead after two weeks ($400 to replace with OEM). After that, I got the double laser platinum the manual recommended, and had no issues. With the large gap range specified for the Stinger, I take it the engine is not using a crazy Trionic-type setup of the Saab's (later adopted by Ferrari, and on some of the higher end BMW's). If the Stinger is happy with iridium plugs (longest lasting), that's great, because I certainly don't want to change them often. For racing, people often choose copper plugs, but those only last 3,000 miles. With iridiums, you only have to change the plugs once every couple years, depending on how much you drive.

The only performance related upgrade I'm likely to do at this point is putting some Eibachs on to stiffen the rear. Maybe a stiffer anti-sway bar. After the chipping matures, I might try that to adjust a few things. For now, though, I'm happy to learn from the adventures other's are having. When I watched the spark change video, though, I thought "What did I get myself into with this engine?"