Rufus
1000 Posts Club!
My preference is called Unobtainium...it lasts for 5 years and never needs reapplying. It's also bulletproof. The only problem is you can only purchase it with the $85 dealer upgrade that boosts the 3.3 by 100hp 
Which is everyone's favorite car wax?
- Thread starter Kia Stinger
- Start date
PA_RN
Member
I like Chemical Guys Hybrid V7 Liquid Wax and Sealant. Nice glossy finish and I like the wax sealant combination.
mldavis2
1000 Posts Club!
Almost as many opinions as there are waxes.
I've shied away from "sealants" (whatever that means) because so many of them begin to look bad around the edges after a couple of years.
My own favorite wax was made by Black Magic. They still have quite a few other products but quit selling the wax which is sad. I used their car wash soap which was formulated for their wax and it kept things nice for 6 months or better. My '05 GTO looks like new even after sitting out in the sun and weather all day for 8 years when I was at work.
Now I've moved to McGuires Gold Class carnuba/polymer paste wax on the Stinger. Goes on easy and comes off easy. Durability remains to be seen, but I don't think I could tell the difference between a $20 wax and a $100 wax. JMHO. Works for me, and both my cars are now garaged and out of the weather (except when driving
) so I don't need any "bullet-proof" wonder sealant.
I've shied away from "sealants" (whatever that means) because so many of them begin to look bad around the edges after a couple of years.
My own favorite wax was made by Black Magic. They still have quite a few other products but quit selling the wax which is sad. I used their car wash soap which was formulated for their wax and it kept things nice for 6 months or better. My '05 GTO looks like new even after sitting out in the sun and weather all day for 8 years when I was at work.
Now I've moved to McGuires Gold Class carnuba/polymer paste wax on the Stinger. Goes on easy and comes off easy. Durability remains to be seen, but I don't think I could tell the difference between a $20 wax and a $100 wax. JMHO. Works for me, and both my cars are now garaged and out of the weather (except when driving
) so I don't need any "bullet-proof" wonder sealant. ______________________________
Euljiro1ga
Active Member
natural waxes are nice, easy application. The thing is, a few extra months of durability sealants usually give is equally important for those with long-ish winter. Can't be waxing cars in the middle of winter for me and winter is where the paintwork takes a lot of abuse.
I also can't stop experimenting so I'll try whatever they hype. lol.
I also can't stop experimenting so I'll try whatever they hype. lol.
BlueGT
Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2018
- Messages
- 107
- Reaction score
- 64
- Points
- 28
I used Autoglym High Definition Wax in early January. I’m really happy with the results. I chose it because it doesn’t contain any cutting compounds which I didn’t think I’d need on brand new paint. It was easy to apply, looks great, water is still beading off beautifully and most dirt just hoses off. I’ll probably do another application soon then see how well it lasts.
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
mldavis2
1000 Posts Club!
My previous favorite (and now unavailable apparently) was Black Magic liquid wax (see post above) because it was good for 6 months which got me through the winter months where I live. I also have a garage, and good wax products containing polymers can be used in cool or hot conditions, even in the sun. Biggest trouble is getting the car washed and totally clean in the winter. I usually wait for a slightly warmer day (above freezing) and do a thorough hand wash and wax in the late fall, then again the first decent day of spring. Nothing fancy or expensive. I'm using McGuire's Gold Class carnuba/polymer paste wax on the Stinger and McGuire's Car Wash soap for wash jobs.
Euljiro1ga
Active Member
The weather has gotten better and finally got a chance to put a coat of the famous Soft99 Fusso coat on (as recommended by @voon).
While it doesn't give the most amount of gloss/shine, the surface is slick and should give some protection for a year as claimed, but in reality, I would already be happy for 6 months. Might put another coat of P21S wax on for that nice warm glow later. The application isn't the easiest but not painfully bad either.
[photo=medium]965[/photo]
[photo=medium]964[/photo]
[photo=medium]966[/photo]
While it doesn't give the most amount of gloss/shine, the surface is slick and should give some protection for a year as claimed, but in reality, I would already be happy for 6 months. Might put another coat of P21S wax on for that nice warm glow later. The application isn't the easiest but not painfully bad either.
[photo=medium]965[/photo]
[photo=medium]964[/photo]
[photo=medium]966[/photo]
voon
Stinger Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2017
- Messages
- 546
- Reaction score
- 209
- Points
- 43
Like most sealants, Fusso doesn't give the craziest deep watery lush a carnauba wax gives on darker colors. But Fusso 12M is one (not the only) of the longest lasting "simple" (as compared to cermic coats) to apply and remove protective layers. It should outlast a carnauba wax by at least double the time and it has an insane hydrophobicity. I like it because I'm lazy.
Other stuff you can loot at: Bilt Hamber Double Speed Wax for easy on and off and a good lasting sealant as well or if you want longest lasting things, a coating like CQuartz UK, which just came out in a "3.0" version, claiming to be all betetr than before (and which is Korean, too .. Car Pro). but those are semi permanent and require a bit more care and focus, when applied, plus more expensive. but they can last 2 years+.
Your car looks fine ... make sure you don't have "clouds" ... fusso, when applied too much, can leave a cloudy effect in some places. Also: Have you let abit of water go across your hood The effect is stunning.
Other stuff you can loot at: Bilt Hamber Double Speed Wax for easy on and off and a good lasting sealant as well or if you want longest lasting things, a coating like CQuartz UK, which just came out in a "3.0" version, claiming to be all betetr than before (and which is Korean, too .. Car Pro). but those are semi permanent and require a bit more care and focus, when applied, plus more expensive. but they can last 2 years+.
Your car looks fine ... make sure you don't have "clouds" ... fusso, when applied too much, can leave a cloudy effect in some places. Also: Have you let abit of water go across your hood
The effect is stunning.
Euljiro1ga
Active Member
I got to test the hydrophobicity property of the Fusso right after I waxed it, rained right after! So I am happy to report, the Fusso sheets water very well indeed.Like most sealants, Fusso doesn't give the craziest deep watery lush a carnauba wax gives on darker colors. But Fusso 12M is one (not the only) of the longest lasting "simple" (as compared to cermic coats) to apply and remove protective layers. It should outlast a carnauba wax by at least double the time and it has an insane hydrophobicity. I like it because I'm lazy.
Other stuff you can loot at: Bilt Hamber Double Speed Wax for easy on and off and a good lasting sealant as well or if you want longest lasting things, a coating like CQuartz UK, which just came out in a "3.0" version, claiming to be all betetr than before (and which is Korean, too .. Car Pro). but those are semi permanent and require a bit more care and focus, when applied, plus more expensive. but they can last 2 years+.
Your car looks fine ... make sure you don't have "clouds" ... fusso, when applied too much, can leave a cloudy effect in some places. Also: Have you let abit of water go across your hood
I actually bought the Fusso only to use on the wheels as the paint is already ceramic coated. Then, I thought, what the hell, let's just try it. I am planning to put another layer of carnauba wax on top of the Fusso. Might lose the insane sheeting effect, but all in the name of science. Can't have enough gloss!
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Euljiro1ga
Active Member
I think you are right. I may still try a panel or so first, want to see if the carnauba would be out more gloss.That won't work well. The wax won't stick properly to the Teflon fusso. Also you'd lose its hydrophibicity ... it makes no sense, stick with the Fusso
Soft99 make another product called the King of Gloss that is designed to go over the Fusso for extra gloss. It's synthetic, so may have a solvent aiding the bond.
Since I already have a ceramic coating, anything on top is simply for the aesthetic.
voon
Stinger Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2017
- Messages
- 546
- Reaction score
- 209
- Points
- 43
VetteNZMan
Member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2018
- Messages
- 72
- Reaction score
- 47
- Points
- 18
I want to leave the Zaino (long term Vette Forum favorite) products behind and move to a product line that I can deal with paint protection on 5 vehicles ranging from 1987 truck to 2018 Stinger. I care less about ultimate shine and more about durability / protection. I did check back on the Vette Forum; as many recommended products as posts: Meg, Zaino, Chem G, even Nu Finish. Some good points made:
End result only as good as prep: wash, clay, polish....
Difficult to tell real difference as far as initial looks between two good waxes / sealants if prep good / same.
Color correction is really clear coat correction, how much clear can u correct for how long and how do u know this must be done?
I went to the Chem Guys site and was overwhelmed. So questions:
Can everything be applied well by hand or is a DA polish machine a must?
With so many different vehicles, assume I have to buy different prep and wax / sealants?
Assume most products have a shelf life?
Is there good independent lab evals (optic qual, hydro / beading, durability, affect on finish with long term use, daily driver subjective reviews....) of some of the products listed here?
Thanks..
End result only as good as prep: wash, clay, polish....
Difficult to tell real difference as far as initial looks between two good waxes / sealants if prep good / same.
Color correction is really clear coat correction, how much clear can u correct for how long and how do u know this must be done?
I went to the Chem Guys site and was overwhelmed. So questions:
Can everything be applied well by hand or is a DA polish machine a must?
With so many different vehicles, assume I have to buy different prep and wax / sealants?
Assume most products have a shelf life?
Is there good independent lab evals (optic qual, hydro / beading, durability, affect on finish with long term use, daily driver subjective reviews....) of some of the products listed here?
Thanks..
Would take a long time to answer all those questions... my suggest would be, go look at ceramic coating for your car.
voon
Stinger Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2017
- Messages
- 546
- Reaction score
- 209
- Points
- 43
First my best tip: Head over to The Worlds Largest Resource for Detailers, Valeters and Car Cleaning and read for a few hours. Don't go for too specific questions, stick to some fo the general help threads at first. It's a great forum for english speakers.
second tip: It's all hands (besides thing slike polish machines or a pressure washer etc). Avoid automated wash machines like the pest. Stungun anyone sitting on your car or getting near the paint with metal bits on jeans (and avoid that yourself).
Then look for sealants, not waxes (although many chemical pastes are now also called "waxes"). Carnauba waxes etc don't last very long and are more interesting to people into the deepest shine. Good long lasting easy to apply and use sealants are things like FK1000P (cheap, works great), Fusso Coat (more expensive, works nicely) etc. Longest lasting in the market atm are things like the ceramic coatings. These leave a fairly solid protection, that lasts longest. All times depend on your car use, prep etc. No general anwer here.
Also: Nothing you smear on your car will ever protect you from stone chips or hard scratches etc. Also nothing will keep your car magically clean. These are common misconceptions. They do help to shed water faster by means of wind while driving and make it easier to wash the cars and getting back to the clean shiny look.
Nothing is truer in the detailing world. Longevity all depends on prep. Which is obvious: give the sealant the best possible surface to stick to.
It is not color correction per se. For that, you'd have to actually polish the paint layer udner the clearcoat. This is done with odler cars without clearcoat .. you can see that often with old red cars especially, turning pink with the corroded red paint etc.
Your question can't be generally answered. Scratches dull the color, especially dark colors. Sun reflections in the scratches turn black into gray. How often you can use abrasives depends on your coats thickness, which varies across makers, cars, wether someone already did it on your car and so on. There's paint thickness gauges you can buy to measure the thickness of base+paint+clearcoat to give you a bit of an idea (although this is not the clearcoat only being measured). If you need it is up to you .. do you like seing scratches in the sunlight? Do you like a dull dark color? Don't overdo it to lsoe as little clearcoat as possible and always start with the least abrasive stuff to see if you already get somethign you like with least damage.
Hand is fine for everything with exception to scratch correction over a large surface. DAs are not a must at all, except for scratch removal across the entire car. if you try that by hand you're dead by exhaustion after a quarter of the hood.
No .. a normal sealant like FK1000P, a way etc can all be used on any vehicle, at least those with clearcoats. not sure if there's something special for very old cars without clearcoat. Nearly all products will be fine for all your cars.
Yes, go to youtube and pick your favorite channel. There's a few there doing nothing but that. But also a lot of clueless people with useless tests. A nice one for generic info in some vids is Ammo NYC (although eh also markets his products), Forensic Detailing for longwinded tests,
second tip: It's all hands (besides thing slike polish machines or a pressure washer etc). Avoid automated wash machines like the pest. Stungun anyone sitting on your car or getting near the paint with metal bits on jeans (and avoid that yourself).
Then look for sealants, not waxes (although many chemical pastes are now also called "waxes"). Carnauba waxes etc don't last very long and are more interesting to people into the deepest shine. Good long lasting easy to apply and use sealants are things like FK1000P (cheap, works great), Fusso Coat (more expensive, works nicely) etc. Longest lasting in the market atm are things like the ceramic coatings. These leave a fairly solid protection, that lasts longest. All times depend on your car use, prep etc. No general anwer here.
Also: Nothing you smear on your car will ever protect you from stone chips or hard scratches etc. Also nothing will keep your car magically clean. These are common misconceptions. They do help to shed water faster by means of wind while driving and make it easier to wash the cars and getting back to the clean shiny look.
Nothing is truer in the detailing world. Longevity all depends on prep. Which is obvious: give the sealant the best possible surface to stick to.
It is not color correction per se. For that, you'd have to actually polish the paint layer udner the clearcoat. This is done with odler cars without clearcoat .. you can see that often with old red cars especially, turning pink with the corroded red paint etc.
Your question can't be generally answered. Scratches dull the color, especially dark colors. Sun reflections in the scratches turn black into gray. How often you can use abrasives depends on your coats thickness, which varies across makers, cars, wether someone already did it on your car and so on. There's paint thickness gauges you can buy to measure the thickness of base+paint+clearcoat to give you a bit of an idea (although this is not the clearcoat only being measured). If you need it is up to you .. do you like seing scratches in the sunlight? Do you like a dull dark color? Don't overdo it to lsoe as little clearcoat as possible and always start with the least abrasive stuff to see if you already get somethign you like with least damage.
Don't like them myself with the exception of very few products. Too many products that fail in vids I saw. There's tons of better and way cheaper brands.
Hand is fine for everything with exception to scratch correction over a large surface. DAs are not a must at all, except for scratch removal across the entire car. if you try that by hand you're dead by exhaustion after a quarter of the hood.
No .. a normal sealant like FK1000P, a way etc can all be used on any vehicle, at least those with clearcoats. not sure if there's something special for very old cars without clearcoat. Nearly all products will be fine for all your cars.
Yes, go to youtube and pick your favorite channel. There's a few there doing nothing but that. But also a lot of clueless people with useless tests. A nice one for generic info in some vids is Ammo NYC (although eh also markets his products), Forensic Detailing for longwinded tests,
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
VetteNZMan
Member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2018
- Messages
- 72
- Reaction score
- 47
- Points
- 18
Thanks voon for all this feedback! I will try FK1000P, do you recommend a complimentary very low abrasive polish?
My very limited detailing experience with clar bars (Zaino) I assumed only removed surface contamination and no clear coat but now I’m not so sure given more reading. What is the case - and would you always clay bar before polish then wax / seal or are the clay and polish steps 100% dependant on surface conditions.
Sorry, mom out of town and I have the twins, have time to ask lots of ???s and not enough to deep dive on the detailing forums.
My very limited detailing experience with clar bars (Zaino) I assumed only removed surface contamination and no clear coat but now I’m not so sure given more reading. What is the case - and would you always clay bar before polish then wax / seal or are the clay and polish steps 100% dependant on surface conditions.
Sorry, mom out of town and I have the twins, have time to ask lots of ???s and not enough to deep dive on the detailing forums.
______________________________
voon
Stinger Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2017
- Messages
- 546
- Reaction score
- 209
- Points
- 43
@VetteNZMan
Good Choice. FK1000P is an oldie but goodie and still able to hold its ground nowadays in all aspects. And it's absurdly cheap for the huge can you get ... lasts forever. it only doesn't smell good
Another thing you can look at that is absolutly excellent, is SONAX XTREME BrilliantShine Detailer. In theory marketed as a Detailer, but its protection is both good and long lasting. Also a very easy thing to use, as you can just use this spray while drying your car after a good wash. It's one of the things I recommend to anyone wanting a fairly long lasting good shine etc, but wants easy of use and who is not a car detailing nutter like me, aka want's something practical and quick.
Normal blue (soft) clay bars are not abrasive, if you lubricate properly where you use them. Just never drag them across something dry. Hard clay bars (often red) can leave some marring.
Not sure what you mean with "complimentary". You mean for prepping? I use various things for prepping a long lasting protectant. 1. Foam (sonax actifoam for me) 2. Quick wash (with cheapest sonax auto shampoo .. no point in expensive shampoos and this one leaves no residue) 3. Check for specialty dirt, aka tar spots, brake rust/dust etc and use somethign like Tardis or IronX etc on them 4. Wash over that again 5. IPA 30% passover to remove all oils etc 6. Wax/Sealant/Coating of choice
Good Choice. FK1000P is an oldie but goodie and still able to hold its ground nowadays in all aspects. And it's absurdly cheap for the huge can you get ... lasts forever. it only doesn't smell good
Another thing you can look at that is absolutly excellent, is SONAX XTREME BrilliantShine Detailer. In theory marketed as a Detailer, but its protection is both good and long lasting. Also a very easy thing to use, as you can just use this spray while drying your car after a good wash. It's one of the things I recommend to anyone wanting a fairly long lasting good shine etc, but wants easy of use and who is not a car detailing nutter like me, aka want's something practical and quick.
Normal blue (soft) clay bars are not abrasive, if you lubricate properly where you use them. Just never drag them across something dry. Hard clay bars (often red) can leave some marring.
Not sure what you mean with "complimentary". You mean for prepping? I use various things for prepping a long lasting protectant. 1. Foam (sonax actifoam for me) 2. Quick wash (with cheapest sonax auto shampoo .. no point in expensive shampoos and this one leaves no residue) 3. Check for specialty dirt, aka tar spots, brake rust/dust etc and use somethign like Tardis or IronX etc on them 4. Wash over that again 5. IPA 30% passover to remove all oils etc 6. Wax/Sealant/Coating of choice
Last edited:
MoobyTheGoldenCalf
Newish Member
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2018
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 9
- Points
- 3
I put Car Guys Liquid Wax on my Stinger last night and it looks great. Was easy to put on & take off. https://www.amazon.com/CarGuys-Liquid-Wax-Ultimate-Protection/dp/B01FTT92HS
Well Stung
Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2018
- Messages
- 44
- Reaction score
- 10
- Points
- 8
I'm luvin F 11 Top Coat!
Stinger4Banger
Newish Member
Last night went with Chemical Guys Black Light after a wash and clay, topped that off with CG Jet Seal, and last layer was their Butter Wet Wax (sounds like an advertisement, I know) Now the car repels water and dust like no tomorrow.
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
