What did you do to your Kia Stinger today?

That orange pops! I didn't know underglow was still a thing though? Been ages since I've seen that.
 
First post! Have had my 2022 Kia stinger gt2 for a little over two years! Gave her a good bath the other day.
Nice ride looks strikingly familiar hahaha.

I've had mine since August 2021. Love at first sight. 38K miles and just did an engine rinse - that is what I call it anyway. BG Engine Plus Service and a fuel/air induction service. Carbon build up a wasn't too bad per the Mechanic. The shop is an Auto Repair shop and they are a performance company as well - very good reputation. They actually have an AWD Dyno so looking forward to seeing my baby rippin it on that dyno. I am gonna do the JB4 thing in about 2wks and slowly build her up over time with some of the go fast goodies out there.

Be nice out there folks. ✌️20210812_174940.webp
 
Thank you much! Yeah not a lot of posts anymore I see.
 
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Installed Perrin jack pads on the Stinger. They are advertised for Subaru but worked great on my car. Makes it so much easier to jack the car up now and not damage anything.
Reviving the topic now that I have time to install…

The rear pads install easily with no alterations necessary.

But the front pads (at least the driver’s side - left-hand drive) have an obstacle. Even after removing the sound deadening material where the pad would rest, there is a doubled layer of metal (see red box in photo) that’s right where the pad should go and it’s thick enough to prevent proper bolt contact with the pinch weld.

Did you remove this, pound it flat, or find a place forward or back on the punch weld from the ideal “between the half-moon cutouts” that would still place the pad in the sill trim cutout?

I have options but would like to leverage your successful experience before I start hacking (or pounding) away at the car.

Thanks for humoring a lifelong car-guy/old dude with a brain injury.
 

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Just noticed, for those who are considering the Perrin Jack pads, that the “OEM Jack Tool” interface is slightly too thick (by 0.3mm) to use with the Stinger’s jack…by, like, the thick ness of the paint.

Since the Perrin tool is anodized aluminum and the jack is painted steel, looks like I’m going to take the Dremel to the Perrin piece, which WON’T rust.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Reviving the topic now that I have time to install…

The rear pads install easily with no alterations necessary.

But the front pads (at least the driver’s side - left-hand drive) have an obstacle. Even after removing the sound deadening material where the pad would rest, there is a doubled layer of metal (see red box in photo) that’s right where the pad should go and it’s thick enough to prevent proper bolt contact with the pinch weld.

Did you remove this, pound it flat, or find a place forward or back on the punch weld from the ideal “between the half-moon cutouts” that would still place the pad in the sill trim cutout?

I have options but would like to leverage your successful experience before I start hacking (or pounding) away at the car.

Thanks for humoring a lifelong car-guy/old dude with a brain injury.
I can look at mine and take a picture if you like? I didnt have any issues with not being able to get good contact after removing the sound deadening material.
 
Just noticed, for those who are considering the Perrin Jack pads, that the “OEM Jack Tool” interface is slightly too thick (by 0.3mm) to use with the Stinger’s jack…by, like, the thick ness of the paint.

Since the Perrin tool is anodized aluminum and the jack is painted steel, looks like I’m going to take the Dremel to the Perrin piece, which WON’T rust.
That's good information. I haven't tried using the supplied scissor jack from the car with the pads. I have been using my personal jack. I would of likely found this out on the side of the road trying to fix a flat lol.
 
I can look at mine and take a picture if you like? I didnt have any issues with not being able to get good contact after removing the sound deadening material.
Please.

Mine is a 2022 as well. GT2 AWD. Wonder if there’s a difference there?

BTW, that metal doubling was on both sides in the front.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Took our '19 Premium in for the diagnostic. Sure enough, the high pressure fuel pump is failing. I tried to duplicate the CEL on the way into the dealer. No luck. Ha hah. But, WOT produced a new experience. In seven plus years of driving Stingers, I have never had WOT hang fire and not upshift. The tach redlined and it stayed in 1st, and the RPMs dropped and then it shifted into 2nd, and redlined again, then dropped RPMs and upshifted after a couple of seconds - felt like forever waiting - then from 3rd it shifted into 4th normally, and I ran out of road at that point. I was in Sport mode and that is super rare, as I always leave it in Eco when I do WOT and the kickdown switch.

All that abuse and no CEL, which is what I was taking the car in for.

The service tech called while I was out and left a message that they are trying to contact our "warranty assistance provider". WTH? They must not have updated our records. I cancelled that contract clear back in March 2023. But this bodes ill, if they are saying anything about KIA not repairing the TSB on the 2.0L fuel pump free of charge.

Anyway, I do recall, now, that I received that letter in December 2023 about the HP fuel pump fuel control valve plunger sticking, causing a loss of power. That exactly describes what happened this morning when I tried to launch from the traffic light.

We took the car in at that time, to inspect the fuel pump. And KIA updated the control unit software and gave the fuel pump system a clean bill of health. Well, that has lasted c. a year and a half.

I'll update tomorrow. Service department is closed today.
 
Good news I guess. Warranty will cover the high pressure fuel pump. And, I was told that the valve cover is leaking. 33,000 miles in and a leaking valve cover? WTH? I have to pay $54 for the part is all. Car is supposed to be ready by Friday "at the latest".
 
Good news I guess. Warranty will cover the high pressure fuel pump. And, I was told that the valve cover is leaking. 33,000 miles in and a leaking valve cover? WTH? I have to pay $54 for the part is all. Car is supposed to be ready by Friday "at the latest".
LOL... sounds like the service manager wants a tip for hooking you up with the warranty job.
 
LOL... sounds like the service manager wants a tip for hooking you up with the warranty job.
It does sound like that. I can say, "don't do the valve cover seal". Then take my car to our "family mechanic" - the guy that did the OBD scan and IDed the CEL as a fuel pump issue - and have him confirm the leaking valve cover. But if I do that, and the leak is real, I'd have to return and have KIA do that under warranty, or, have our mechanic do it and pay him for the job - since I would no longer trust KIA, the dealership in question, going forward. Or, I can just fork over the $54 for the part and not bother myself with trying to find out if the service manager is adding on the valve cover job to the paperwork to make a few bucks. What would you do?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
It does sound like that. I can say, "don't do the valve cover seal". Then take my car to our "family mechanic" - the guy that did the OBD scan and IDed the CEL as a fuel pump issue - and have him confirm the leaking valve cover. But if I do that, and the leak is real, I'd have to return and have KIA do that under warranty, or, have our mechanic do it and pay him for the job - since I would no longer trust KIA, the dealership in question, going forward. Or, I can just fork over the $54 for the part and not bother myself with trying to find out if the service manager is adding on the valve cover job to the paperwork to make a few bucks. What would you do?
Yep. I and just about everybody would do the same. He knows it.
 
It does sound like that. I can say, "don't do the valve cover seal". Then take my car to our "family mechanic" - the guy that did the OBD scan and IDed the CEL as a fuel pump issue - and have him confirm the leaking valve cover. But if I do that, and the leak is real, I'd have to return and have KIA do that under warranty, or, have our mechanic do it and pay him for the job - since I would no longer trust KIA, the dealership in question, going forward. Or, I can just fork over the $54 for the part and not bother myself with trying to find out if the service manager is adding on the valve cover job to the paperwork to make a few bucks. What would you do?
$54 for a valve cover gasket job is a steal. Ask anyone with a BMW how much that would run them. I'd go for it too. My dealer charges more for an air filter swap.
 
FWIW... on something like this, I would've made a tiny little mark on the part to be replaced or on somewhere inconspicuous around the area only you can tell if the part has been R&R'ed... or not.

IMO, standard shop rate at dealership service being what it is typically, $54 for valve cover gasket replacement seems way too good to be true. You know what they say about that. ;)

The $$ is really too small to be worth the trouble. But the look on the service manager's face might be.
 
I can't put a mark on a part that they told me over the phone is going to be needed to do warranty work. If oil is leaking under the valve cover, and the gasket is the part they'll replace, and no labor is charged since it's covered by the powertrain warranty, I will trust their assessment is legit. Of course, they could just tack on the $54 and do nothing at all. But why risk getting caught? They don't know if I will tell them to leave out the gasket replacement, then get an outsider to look over my engine, and bust them.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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