Stinger 3.3 throttle body coolant bypass?

[BIG-D]

Curious about your throttle body please ?

I just bought the AFE intake pipe and I want to buy the BIGGER TB as well

 

[Thomby]

Thinking about doing this during my next batch of maintenance. Here's a picture of the lines in question for any curious -- you could either remove the hoses in light blue and cap the barbs on the hard line, or route the longer left hose to the right barb (assuming it's long enough and doesn't kink from a tight radius), or connect the two hoses with a barb fitting.

But I also have a question: does anyone know what the light blue line in the second picture is for? Picture is taken from the driver's side of the car facing the passenger side.

 

[G-835102]

hmm maybe can it be bypassed as well?

 

[7thSonEngineering]

The blue line in the second picture is the “coolant return” or the low pressure “hot side” of the coolant system.

In the genesis coupes we do the coolant bypass aswell. We did not cap off the lines but connected the feed and return directly. The hose on those cars was long enough to loop directly. In these cars idk. I also don’t think it’s necessary anymore because “IAT sensor relocation kit” solves the manifold heat soak issues.

Iv seen very good gains on my genesis coupe anyway. But that thing is modded to hell and back.

 

[Thomby]

The blue line in the second picture is the “coolant return” or the low pressure “hot side” of the coolant system.

Thank you, but where is it returning from? I couldn't see where the side opposite the big coolant pipe connects, is it in the block valley or heads?

 

[BIG-D]

It joins to the T section above the Waterpump where we burp air out of the coolant system...

I only took 5min's to remove everything to show you, cheers.

Might as well remove my manifold and check my plugs while I am in here...

 

[BIG-D]

These didn't load, try again

 

[Thomby]

It joins to the T section above the Waterpump where we burp air out of the coolant system...

Thank you! So no additional under-manifold circuit that would be worth bypassing then, besides the TB...

 

[BIG-D]

Nah can't see any benefit there mate, just wish I could tune the thermostat to open earlier without freaking the ecu out.

 

[BIG-D]

The blue line in the second picture is the “coolant return” or the low pressure “hot side” of the coolant system.

In the genesis coupes we do the coolant bypass aswell. We did not cap off the lines but connected the feed and return directly. The hose on those cars was long enough to loop directly. In these cars idk. I also don’t think it’s necessary anymore because “IAT sensor relocation kit” solves the manifold heat soak issues.

Iv seen very good gains on my genesis coupe anyway. But that thing is modded to hell and back.

Not being a knocker at all, but you are relocating a sensor and great job by the way.

We are stopping 103 degree coolant flowing thru the throttle body for no apparent reason, well in my climate anyway...

Daz

 

[7thSonEngineering]

Not being a knocker at all, but you are relocating a sensor and great job by the way.

We are stopping 103 degree coolant flowing thru the throttle body for no apparent reason, well in my climate anyway...

Daz

It wont do any harm. Iv had my genesis coupe for 9 years now and at least 6 of those years iv had the coolant bypass "installed" and haven't had any issues. It definitely does create a source of heat which heated up my aluminum intake manifold and definitely robbed me of power compared to when I relocated my tmap sensor to the intercooler cold side piping.

 

[rtv900]

I've never heard of coolant going to a throttle body.
Obviously the designers must have had a reason for that.
Seems they want it at engine temp for some reason?
anybody know the actual reason?

 

[Thomby]

I've never heard of coolant going to a throttle body.
Obviously the designers must have had a reason for that.
Seems they want it at engine temp for some reason?
anybody know the actual reason?

It's common on other cars. The stated reason is to keep the throttle from potentially freezing/sticking in very cold weather, which always seemed very unlikely to me given that the engine bay and block are 100+ degrees even in the coldest conditions.

I asked chatgpt which agreed this seemed unlikely, but brought up the fact that at low throttle you have a Venturi effect (increased airspeed, decreased pressure, rapid cooling). So in theory if you were driving in cold weather, with high humidity and an engine that hadn't fully warmed up, at low throttle, icing could happen.

I asked it to quantify that risk, vs. the costs the system (development, loss in efficiency from warming intake air, potential reliability/leak concerns) and it reckoned that the systems were developed long ago so R&D is minimal, and they probably only raise intake temps by 5-15 degrees, which wouldn't translate to measurable fuel economy and would only cost a couple percent of power at full throttle.

So the risk of icing is low but nonzero, and the costs the system are low enough to justify. When I pushed it to guesstimate mileage improvements, it reckoned a 10 degree drop in intake temp (say 120 to 110) would increase air density 1.6%, so 1.6% more power at the same throttle, and maybe 1% better mileage once throttle was reduced appropriately.

Edit: as another example, the Z32 300ZX runs coolant lines underneath its relatively massive intake manifold. Guys remove them for reliability/leak prevention (8 connection points!), and because it significantly simplifies and speeds up future intake manifold removal: