I have the Tokeda filters and Velossa techsnorkels, took off the BMS IC added VR IC, difference I saw (I monitor IAT and coolant temp constantly with S4 WMI app) IAT took way longer time to increase 20degrees above ambient being average 85 degrees. With BMS before I got to 212 coolant temp it would already be 20degrees above ambient. BMS IC at idle at stop light IAT would be 25-35degrees above ambient. VR IC I would only see 25degrees above ambient (85degrees). I think this due to the size of BMS blocking the radiator plus the bumper core blocking the BMS IC as well.
I have the Tokeda filters and Velossa techsnorkels, took off the BMS IC added VR IC, difference I saw (I monitor IAT and coolant temp constantly with S4 WMI app) IAT took way longer time to increase 20degrees above ambient being average 85 degrees. With BMS before I got to 212 coolant temp it would already be 20degrees above ambient. BMS IC at idle at stop light IAT would be 25-35degrees above ambient. VR IC I would only see 25degrees above ambient (85degrees). I think this due to the size of BMS blocking the radiator plus the bumper core blocking the BMS IC as well.
Blocking the radiator won't affect IAT, directly. The larger core of the IC absorbing heat from a radiator could get warmer while stationary (radiated heat). But, otherwise, no correlation between the two.
The bumper beam could certainly affect stationary temps, but shouldn't be enough to concern anyone since the IC is a heat exchanger for air moving across it (i.e., while in motion). It's possible the BMS core was getting heat soaked and due to the larger surface area, would take longer to cool off. But, the biggest difference would be IATs while at WOT for longer periods of time. That's why the Wagner IC is massive, because they designed it for track applications vice stop and go street purpose (where factory tube and fin is better).
WOT, IAT dropped significantly faster with the VR than with the BMS. At least from my observation. I don't have documentation to corroborate my findings other than seeing it in my logs and my S4 APP.
You have to remove the nose, steel bumper and plastic shroud. It's actually quite simple. Just take your time. I don't know of any intercooler that can be installed without removing the above.
You have to remove the nose, steel bumper and plastic shroud. It's actually quite simple. Just take your time. I don't know of any intercooler that can be installed without removing the above.
I'm just adding the AFE coldside piping. That is what I'm asking about. I've taken the front bumper cover off so many times, that some of the attachment points are getting fragile. I am second owner so I inherited some of the issues.
I'm just adding the AFE coldside piping. That is what I'm asking about. I've taken the front bumper cover off so many times, that some of the attachment points are getting fragile. I am second owner so I inherited some of the issues.
While that intercooler itself is cool, I just didin't want to drill anything and the mishimoto was no drilling, just remove the old cooler and replaced it with all new larger Y pipe and all ducting to original mounting holes. I had more issues putting in the big mouths (cleanly) in then I did putting in the intercooler.
The Mishimoto Intercooler kit would have been my choice except it is so damn expensive ( here in Australia ) and the weight of the intercooler itself with the cast end tanks turned me off.
But, the Mishimoto kit would be my pick of all the pre made options.
not install pics it was just a BMS. i’ve since gone back to the OEM intercooler for now. was looking at VR which was on a crazy sale last month, but i missed out. so maybe black friday i’ll upgrade
not install pics it was just a BMS. i’ve since gone back to the OEM intercooler for now. was looking at VR which was on a crazy sale last month, but i missed out. so maybe black friday i’ll upgrade
I have the Tokeda filters and Velossa techsnorkels, took off the BMS IC added VR IC, difference I saw (I monitor IAT and coolant temp constantly with S4 WMI app) IAT took way longer time to increase 20degrees above ambient being average 85 degrees. With BMS before I got to 212 coolant temp it would already be 20degrees above ambient. BMS IC at idle at stop light IAT would be 25-35degrees above ambient. VR IC I would only see 25degrees above ambient (85degrees). I think this due to the size of BMS blocking the radiator plus the bumper core blocking the BMS IC as well.
I switched from the BMS IC to a AIRTEC IC (same design as the Agency/VR IC) about a month ago and my observations were the same. I have a mesh front lower grille so airflow is a lot higher but my temps are much better with the AIRTEC IC. I think the BMS IC is simply to big and bulky for it's own good. I also think the larger core of the BMS IC causes a boost pressure drop vs a more appropriately sized core.