smashed up car this morning, where is MAF sensor?

[rtv900]

so I smashed into a cable guard rail in the insane snow this morning and trashed my intercooler which now
has a huge opening in the ducting.
So my question is, can anyone confirm where the MAF is on this car?
Like is it post intercooler?
I'm asking because otherwise it is still driveable but if the MAF is pre-intercooler obviously I don't want to drive it
because the ECU will have no idea how much air the engine is getting and I don't want to trash the engine too.
But if the MAF is post intercooler along with the throttle of course, I feel like the engine won't be at risk.
Obviously it won't build boost due to the broken piping, but otherwise it drives ok.

 

[Thomby]

The Stinger has a TMAP and a MAP sensor, both downstream of the intercooler. If you're facing the engine bay from the front of the car, with the throttlebody at 9 o'clock, follow the silicone coupler down to the intake pipe, and the TMAP is the sensor with the two green bolts at about 7 o'clock. The MAP isn't visible with the cover on, but it's at about 12 o'clock under the lines after "TURBO", on the back of the intake manifold.

With that said, I'm not sure whether the car will detect that you're building no boost and go into limp mode, or if it'll hold the wastegates closed and spin the turbos to a zillion rpm trying to build pressure. Are you just trying to limp it to a shop, or planning to use it as a daily driver until you replace the intercooler?

 

[rtv900]

I'm trying to keep using it
I drove about an hour after the wreck and just had it out again for about 30 minutes. It runs totally normally.
But I hadn't thought of the wastegate thing you mentioned so that is a good point. I'm not sure what will happen since it can't build boost at all with the gaping hole in the side of the intercooler and if the ECU will let the turbos run out of control.
With both maps downstream I'm not worried about a mixture issue, but the turbo issue could be a problem.

 

[Snicklefritz]

I'm trying to keep using it

Inconceivable decision. You said you don't want to damage the engine. It looks like parts could drop off at any moment. Messing around with driving is going to complicate insurance and warranty claims. Seriously, you are going to wind up with a dead car and no way to get it repaired. Stop driving now.

 

[Thomby]

Yeah there are a bunch of other potential issues to think through, but the turbos spinning themselves to oblivion was the first that came to mind. Your now-naturally-aspirated engine is taking in unfiltered air, among other things.

And I'm assuming you've taken the bumper off so you aren't dragging it down the road? How about the intercooler itself, associated piping, undertrays, fender liners?

 

[rtv900]

Inconceivable decision. You said you don't want to damage the engine. It looks like parts could drop off at any moment. Messing around with driving is going to complicate insurance and warranty claims. Seriously, you are going to wind up with a dead car and no way to get it repaired. Stop driving now.

well for one there's nothing warranty related here. And the insurance company doesn't care if I drive it so those are non issues.
there's nothing loose, I got all the loose parts off after the snow melted which is why I brought it inside. No critical parts were loose, the intercooler is the only thing other than cosmetic stuff.
Correct, I don't want to damage the engine which is why I wanted to verify the maf's are post intercooler so I won't be running lean or rich out of parameters.
The engine idles, runs and drives 100% normally, responds normally, sounds normal and works normal.
Is there something I'm missing that could damage it because as far as I can determine all the systems the engine needs to run properly are 100% intact.

 

[vipeboy2000]

well for one there's nothing warranty related here. And the insurance company doesn't care if I drive it so those are non issues.
there's nothing loose, I got all the loose parts off after the snow melted which is why I brought it inside. No critical parts were loose, the intercooler is the only thing other than cosmetic stuff.
Correct, I don't want to damage the engine which is why I wanted to verify the maf's are post intercooler so I won't be running lean or rich out of parameters.
The engine idles, runs and drives 100% normally, responds normally, sounds normal and works normal.
Is there something I'm missing that could damage it because as far as I can determine all the systems the engine needs to run properly are 100% intact.

how are you filtering the air ?

 

[rtv900]

Yeah there are a bunch of other potential issues to think through, but the turbos spinning themselves to oblivion was the first that came to mind. Your now-naturally-aspirated engine is taking in unfiltered air, among other things.

And I'm assuming you've taken the bumper off so you aren't dragging it down the road? How about the intercooler itself, associated piping, undertrays, fender liners?

I taped up the intercooler hole so it won't be intaking unfiltered air. The piping on each side is 100% intact. The break is actually in the plastic section that connects the hot side pipe to the intercooler itself.
Yes I cut off the bumper remnants and cut off all loose parts of the undertray material. Fender liners are both history.
this is what it looks like now. The intercooler itself it crushed in the center but nothing is actually broken on it, just deformed.
For whatever reason I don't think the turbos are spinning to oblivion because it is not blowing the duct tape off the intercooler connection. If they truly were out of control boosting it would blow that off.
Plus, yes now it's an NA motor so it isn't going to have anywhere near the peak exhaust volume that the turbos are designed for.

 

[Snicklefritz]

Is there something I'm missing that could damage it because as far as I can determine all the systems the engine needs to run properly are 100% intact.

If you want to warranty anything going forward, stop driving the car. KIA will look at what you are doing and deny, deny, deny, because they will point to the collision and your continued "abuse" to be the cause of whatever it is. You say nothing about this is warranty related. Well, neither are mods directly warranty related when something fails, but KIA will always try and associate a mod with a failure. I can't think that driving a banged up car wouldn't provide ample opportunity to deny just about anything later submitted as warranty work/repair.

 

[rtv900]

If you want to warranty anything going forward, stop driving the car. KIA will look at what you are doing and deny, deny, deny, because they will point to the collision and your continued "abuse" to be the cause of whatever it is. You say nothing about this is warranty related. Well, neither are mods directly warranty related when something fails, but KIA will always try and associate a mod with a failure. I can't think that driving a banged up car wouldn't provide ample opportunity to deny just about anything later submitted as warranty work/repair.

for one I already have over 60k miles on it
how long even is the warranty?
plus how would anybody know I drove it after this?

anyhow, I may reconsider but at this point I'm just trying to determine if there's anything that will actually cause harm not withstanding unfiltered air getting in which I know I need to solve. But other than that I'm not sure there's any source of harm.

 

[chrisJP]

Is it street legal with one headlamp missing?

 

[rtv900]

Is it street legal with one headlamp missing?

no
I guess I'll just drive something else in the meantime
or maybe I'll stop at the location I wrecked on my way home and look for that headlight

 

[Snicklefritz]

for one I already have over 60k miles on it
how long even is the warranty?
plus how would anybody know I drove it after this?

anyhow, I may reconsider but at this point I'm just trying to determine if there's anything that will actually cause harm not withstanding unfiltered air getting in which I know I need to solve. But other than that I'm not sure there's any source of harm.

Well, the drivetrain warranty is good till 100,000 miles. Anything electrical involved in the accident, now or down the road, will be on your dime anyway. But if that headlight assembly is still working, for sure you want it. They're over a thousand each. You could maybe find a junked one. You seem rattled, naturally. Good luck getting your ride back in shape. Keep us informed, if it will help you in any way. Ima interested in any story about Stinger's getting healed. Been there myself, although nothing as nasty as what happened to you.

 

[rtv900]

$17,000 estimate on repairs
I decided not to keep driving it other than when I take it to the shop (hoping they don't total it)
Driving a Ram 2500 truck for now. Friggin SUCKS going from a 3.3 stinger to a lousey gigantic truck!!!

 

[Volfy]

Good decision. With it banged up that bad, you never know where else could have cracks and openings. If the turbo is not building boost, then the intake tracks will have varying degrees of negative pressure. If there are any holes you didn't plug or tape over, air will be sucked in.

Even your taped over area might not be all that secure. The turbo might be attempting to build pressure, but as soon as it does, that 10-15psi might be enough puff your tape loose just a bit, enough to dump boost pressure. Now the intake is back to NA vacuum mode and sucking through the opening the turbo pressure just created. Not good.

 

[socalvn]

That's not safe to drive that way for you or anybody else

 

[Snicklefritz]

$17,000 estimate on repairs

That's pushing into "totaled" territory. Judging by your surviving headlight you're a GT or GT1. Insurance won't pay out for 50% + of value before accident.

 

[rtv900]

That's pushing into "totaled" territory. Judging by your surviving headlight you're a GT or GT1. Insurance won't pay out for 50% + of value before accident.

ugh, yeah I'm worried they might total it as well. Haven't heard anything yet, but yes I agree it's more than 50% of the value. According to KBB with 60k miles mine is worth 30 at this point entering my VIN for the details. I like the car so I want to fix it since the suspension and engine and legit structural frame parts were all spared any damage so I have confidence the car will be 100% when it's done.
I always forget the GT, GT1, GT2 trims, but I think mine was a GT1 since I have the 3.3, AWD and the brembos. I'm positive it isn't a GT2 because I remember those were almost 10 grand more expensive for bells and whistles that I didn't give a crap about when I was shopping.

 

[Snicklefritz]

ugh, yeah I'm worried they might total it as well. Haven't heard anything yet, but yes I agree it's more than 50% of the value. According to KBB with 60k miles mine is worth 30 at this point entering my VIN for the details. I like the car so I want to fix it since the suspension and engine and legit structural frame parts were all spared any damage so I have confidence the car will be 100% when it's done.
I always forget the GT, GT1, GT2 trims, but I think mine was a GT1 since I have the 3.3, AWD and the brembos. I'm positive it isn't a GT2 because I remember those were almost 10 grand more expensive for bells and whistles that I didn't give a crap about when I was shopping.

If the insurance pays the value, in other words "totaled", you can get another Stinger. Maybe start looking now? Or, as you say, repair this one and pocket the difference.

Ima assuming yours is a '22 refresh. The GT has always had the 3.3L and Brembo brakes. It is the GT-Line that has the 2.0L or 2.5L engine and standard brakes. The GT1 still had the Harman Kardon sound system in '22, iirc. Also the LCD gauge cluster.

 

[Devin]

The GT1 still had the Harman Kardon sound system in '22, iirc. Also the LCD gauge cluster

Negative, 2022 GT1 lost the HK speaker system. Vented seats. 7in Supervisor. Seat memory. Probably some other stuff.