Lozic ECU + TCU + AWD Tune

1.3+map6 or EK1 lite+BEF+map6 is your best bet here. Also CPI or WMI+E30 for lozic, WMI+pump gas for BEF. Lozic tune wouldn’t give you its big timing ign table for more power on pump gas even you have WMI.
CPI is probably best for lozic's tune I'd guess? I'm slightly disappointed with wmi tbh. Wish I had researched more when I got it.
 
Why is CPI better for lozic tune than methanol injection?

Best
Bogdan
From what I've heard lozic's tune benefits better from cpi. The exact reasons I'm not sure. I do however know even with wmi my logs weren't the cleanest w/ 1.5bar ecu. I'm not sure if that's something I was doing wrong or what. Now using e30 + wmi and logs are good most of the time.
 
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From what I've heard lozic's tune benefits better from cpi. The exact reasons I'm not sure. I do however know even with wmi my logs weren't the cleanest w/ 1.5bar ecu. I'm not sure if that's something I was doing wrong or what. Now using e30 + wmi and logs are good most of the time.
The last e30 log you showed seems like it’s running higher timing ign table as expected. Can you show me a longer full 3-4 gear pull to prove that?
 
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CPI is better than WMI+pump gas. WMI+E30 is the best.
I feel the increase in power as I refueled with 100 octane gasoline along with WIMI. As you saw earlier the logs also improved.
What do you think about it?

Greetings
Bogdan
 
I feel the increase in power as I refueled with 100 octane gasoline along with WIMI. As you saw earlier the logs also improved.
What do you think about it?

Greetings
Bogdan
It would be obvious when the higher octane triggers the ecu to give you that big power ignition table. When Pearly first showed me his log after CPI and higher E I was like “How the F is this the same tune as mine?”
 
It would be obvious when the higher octane triggers the ecu to give you that big power ignition table. When Pearly first showed me his log after CPI and higher E I was like “How the F is this the same tune as mine?”
 
Hi,
today I tested the stinger. Once there was a power drop. Check engine light came on for a while then went off. I was driving on map 0 trigger 1 wimi. The car scanner showed missfire 1 and 3. Then I drove hard for half an hour and there was no repeat. I don't have logs of the incident. What is the cause? Two weeks ago I changed the plugs to HKS and installed methanol kit BMS. I have lozic ecue 1.5, tcu, injen intake.

Best
Bogdan
 
Hi,
today I tested the stinger. Once there was a power drop. Check engine light came on for a while then went off. I was driving on map 0 trigger 1 wimi. The car scanner showed missfire 1 and 3. Then I drove hard for half an hour and there was no repeat. I don't have logs of the incident. What is the cause? Two weeks ago I changed the plugs to HKS and installed methanol kit BMS. I have lozic ecue 1.5, tcu, injen intake.

Best
Bogdan
Would hurt to check plug torque specs first. Loose plug can lead to this for sure.
 
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Would hurt to check plug torque specs first. Loose plug can lead to this for sure.
Hi, I have been driving n a100% methanol for the past two days and have not had any problems with knocking combustion. What do you guys think?

Best
Bogdan
 
Does anyone else experience the BOV pulsing during WOT/full accelerate? See how boost is erratic between 3.5k-4.5k rpm? Yes I'm hitting 28psi lol. I have APR head studs and the new style oem turbos. Turbo seals was gone on my original turbos so I got a new pair.

Lozic said once 28psi is hit outside the throttle body the bov will release excess pressure as a safety. I'm really curious if others have experienced this. It feels and sounds unnatural with the bov pulsing during wot. This would happen but not very often with my first set of turbos. But with the new turbos I find it happening WAY WAY to much.
 

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Does anyone else experience the BOV pulsing during WOT/full accelerate? See how boost is erratic between 3.5k-4.5k rpm? Yes I'm hitting 28psi lol. I have APR head studs and the new style oem turbos. Turbo seals was gone on my original turbos so I got a new pair.

Lozic said once 28psi is hit outside the throttle body the bov will release excess pressure as a safety. I'm really curious if others have experienced this. It feels and sounds unnatural with the bov pulsing during wot. This would happen but not very often with my first set of turbos. But with the new turbos I find it happening WAY WAY to much.
Did you check the wastegate spec? Just idling and ACC is enough.
 
Did you check the wastegate spec? Just idling and ACC is enough.
I'm not sure what you mean by ACC. I don't have a jb4 if that is a parameter on there. I do have a autel scantool along with the lap3 meth kit for logging.

I wonder if a retune without boost ready would help
 
I'm not sure what you mean by ACC. I don't have a jb4 if that is a parameter on there. I do have a autel scantool along with the lap3 meth kit for logging.

I wonder if a retune without boost ready would help
Autel reader should be able to log two wastegates. Just put your car in ACC and read two wastegate position vs their setpoint. Our car has wastegates off spec out of factory and that's actually why lots of people having over/underboost problem when they are trying to tune it.
 
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Autel reader should be able to log two wastegates. Just put your car in ACC and read two wastegate position vs their setpoint. Our car has wastegates off spec out of factory and that's actually why lots of people having over/underboost problem when they are trying to tune it.
With ignition in ACC:
Bank 1 setpoint - 0% Bank 1 actual - 3.7%
Bank 2 setpoint - 0 % Bank 2 actual - 4.3%

At cold start idle all 4 values are 0%
 
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With ignition in ACC:
Bank 1 setpoint - 0% Bank 1 actual - 3.7%
Bank 2 setpoint - 0 % Bank 2 actual - 4.3%

At cold start idle all 4 values are 0%
It’s off spec and need to be adjusted badly. Better be within 1%. -4% off should be overboosting pretty obviously .
 
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It’s off spec and need to be adjusted badly. Better be within 1%. -4% off should be overboosting pretty obviously .
How to adjust? Mechanically or electronically?

Why does the position in acc mode matter? Once the engine is running all 4 values are at 0%
 
How to adjust? Mechanically or electronically?

Why does the position in acc mode matter? Once the engine is running all 4 values are at 0%

Mechanically. Need someone to be on that bolt and other staring at the obd reader. Dealer supposed to be able to do that but sometimes there mechanics don’t know what they’re looking at. Passenger side is easy to reach, driver side is super annoying tho.

I was thinking it doesn’t matter before. After I got mine adjusted, the boost just went from not even tuneable to hit target accurately.
 
Mechanically. Need someone to be on that bolt and other staring at the obd reader. Dealer supposed to be able to do that but sometimes there mechanics don’t know what they’re looking at. Passenger side is easy to reach, driver side is super annoying tho.

I was thinking it doesn’t matter before. After I got mine adjusted, the boost just went from not even tuneable to hit target accurately.
So the wastegate actuator rod is set wrong from the factory? Maybe within 5% is acceptable for factory boost level.

But when bigger boosting comes into play the tolerances become tighter. Idk, just thinking.

How far off was yours? And I guess that -4% means that the gate is closed 4% more than it should be? Meaning more exhaust gases are passing over the turbine.

Basically, loosen the jam nut. Turn the cylinder to adjust as needed then lock the jam nut back down.

I'm curious where you got the tip to check this?
 

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