3.3TT Lap3 and Turbokits: Hybrid Turbos 600whp

[turboAWD]

Hey, don’t be putting words in my mouth . All it said in the post what stuff was running.

Pump gas 93 w/ e30.
Methanol injection
22-23psi
Nowhere does it say “a must” but I’d rather be safe than sorry it was like 74 degrees that day and intake temps were 100 inside the dyno.

I literally got the turbos, got them installed, break-in period about 400 miles, changed ecu then full send at the dyno. No other things were changed. Everything stayed the same as far as parts go, except I switched my oem secondaries to ark secondaries to make it full catless.

Also why would you get smog check without going back to stock ecu?

I’ve been testing, monitoring and full sending it here and there for the past 3 weeks and so far so good!

Here is my mods list for those lazy to go on the page.

Mods list:
Lap3 stage 3.5 ECU tune for hybrid turbo
Turbokits Hybrid Turbos
Lap3 Protuner with methanol injection dual nozzle
NGT Performance Throttle Body Spacer
Mishimoto FMIC
Lap3 Catless Downpipe
Ark Secondaries
Borla Catback
AEM intakes
Transmission cooler
OEM Diverter valve
HKS plugs

These are the only things I have as far as performance parts go…. I’m currently at 65k miles. Been tuned since 5k miles, and been using methanol injection since 7k miles. Notice I also don’t use OCC, or aftermarket BOV.

One of the responses literally says: "WMI is a must". From J.E.

As for smog - smog sensors / indicators require some amount of miles to clear / report ready. Can you drive 100 miles on these turbos + OEM Ecu???

 

[gingfreaccs]

One of the responses literally says: "WMI is a must". From J.E.

As for smog - smog sensors / indicators require some amount of miles to clear / report ready. Can you drive 100 miles on these turbos + OEM Ecu???

Oh yea that was me, I get exhausted too :3 just have to reiterate that it isn’t used for extra fueling or anything. If it was then the settings I had on stage 2.5 wouldn’t have applied for the turbos and I would’ve had to adjust it. But I literally just slapped in the turbo and new tune and full send. 600 powaaaaaaa!!

 

[gingfreaccs]

One of the responses literally says: "WMI is a must". From J.E.

As for smog - smog sensors / indicators require some amount of miles to clear / report ready. Can you drive 100 miles on these turbos + OEM Ecu???

I haven’t tried it yet but that’s what I got the defoulers for! I’m not due for emissions for another 3 years.

 

[Stiletto]

One post asked what's different between these and the pures. Here is our reply: It's a long list, but I'll cut it down to the major ones. The stock shafts on the stock turbos are puny, they can and have snapped with the extra weight of an upgraded wheel and more PSI (shaft speed). What we did was develop a 5 axis CNC bearing housing, that drops right into place of the stock one, but accepts a larger turbine shaft size for better durability and ability to handle higher shaft speeds, we then took it one step further and removed the journal bearing guts and upgraded it to dual ball bearing. It's essentially a completely redesigned turbo CHRA, which we then machine into the stock housings for easy fitment.

Thank you for posting!!

Personally, I'm fine with a long list. It shows that you've truly researched and applied knowledge to the upgrade rather than selling snake oil (not implying that you're doing so, just making a point).

Will these hybrid snails require additional/different hardware? For example, other hybrid turbos state that different oil and coolant lines will be needed.

Do the electronic wastegates fit like OEM?

Is there a warranty?

 

[GennyGuy]

One post asked what's different between these and the pures. Here is our reply: It's a long list, but I'll cut it down to the major ones. The stock shafts on the stock turbos are puny, they can and have snapped with the extra weight of an upgraded wheel and more PSI (shaft speed). What we did was develop a 5 axis CNC bearing housing, that drops right into place of the stock one, but accepts a larger turbine shaft size for better durability and ability to handle higher shaft speeds, we then took it one step further and removed the journal bearing guts and upgraded it to dual ball bearing. It's essentially a completely redesigned turbo CHRA, which we then machine into the stock housings for easy fitment.

Thanks for joining forum to answer the questions. Looking forward to more information as you guys roll it out officially. And a price range and process once that is worked out. It looks promising.

 

[gingfreaccs]

Thank you for posting!!

Personally, I'm fine with a long list. It shows that you've truly researched and applied knowledge to the upgrade rather than selling snake oil (not implying that you're doing so, just making a point).

Will these hybrid snails require additional/different hardware? For example, other hybrid turbos state that different oil and coolant lines will be needed.

Do the electronic wastegates fit like OEM?

Is there a warranty?

I can answer some of these:

I bought new gaskets/washers for everything. When we reinstalled the coolant lines with a used washer, it started to leak so we replaced those as well. I did reuse the oil feed/drain lines. The block also needed to be shaved to accommodate for the space.

It uses the oem wg actuator as well.

 

[gingfreaccs]

I’ll compile a list of stuff that I bought. The manifold nuts and downpipe nuts can break once it’s taken out. Those manifold nuts are like $20/piece

 

[turboAWD]

I haven’t tried it yet but that’s what I got the defoulers for! I’m not due for emissions for another 3 years.

I think I have 5 years (they increased it to 8 years in CA recently). But, it would probably fail visual if I didn't remove everything. And fail obd2 without oem ecu vin cal id. To swap out both turbos TWICE every 2 years? That sounds insane. I can remove jb4 + intakes in a couple of hours.

 

[gingfreaccs]

I think I have 5 years (they increased it to 8 years in CA recently). But, it would probably fail visual if I didn't remove everything. And fail obd2 without oem ecu vin cal id. To swap out both turbos TWICE every 2 years? That sounds insane. I can remove jb4 + intakes in a couple of hours.

Ahhh yea not ideal for you cali guys

 

[oddball]

......
22-23psi
......

Oooohhh! Ooooohhhh!!! Where's that dude that insists PSI==power? My gauge shows 22psi on my Tork stage 1 (otherwise basically stock), which means my car must also make 600 whp!!! Waaahooooo!!!!

 

[gingfreaccs]

Oooohhh! Ooooohhhh!!! Where's that dude that insists PSI==power? My gauge shows 22psi on my Tork stage 1 (otherwise basically stock), which means my car must also make 600 whp!!! Waaahooooo!!!!

Lollll whutttt

 

[HoosierStinger]

I had a chance to test out the product that they have been developing this past year. For more information and discussion: Join LAP3 Performance | FacebookView attachment 71085

View attachment 71083

How is the Stinger running a year later?

 

[GennyGuy]

How is the Stinger running a year later?

I might be wrong, but I think it was a part out.

 

[HoosierStinger]

I might be wrong, but I think it was a part out.

That definitely wouldn't be good. I haven't heard from anyone using hybrid turbos. I'm sure there are some out there. I'm curious about the reliability and durability.

 

[GennyGuy]

That definitely wouldn't be good. I haven't heard from anyone using hybrid turbos. I'm sure there are some out there. I'm curious about the reliability and durability.

They've all ended badly and parted out as far as I know.

 

[HoosierStinger]

They've all ended badly and parted out as far as I know.

Diffrent reasons or did all have the same root cause of failure? At least from what you know.

 

[GennyGuy]

Diffrent reasons or did all have the same root cause of failure? At least from what you know.

So far hybrid turbos have not been reliable regardless of who made them. But that may change soon.

 

[HoosierStinger]

So far hybrid turbos have not been reliable regardless of who made them. But that may change soon.

One person made a good case concerning exhaust restrictions. The small manifold going from the heads to the turbos can't remove the exhaust gases fast enough. Cramming more in the engine with no where for it to go (hybrid turbos). Back pressure builds and temps climb. Making for a bad situation.

The reason I bring the topic up is because at the moment I'm having my turbos rebuilt. I'm tired of blowing oil. Ever since I removed the secondary cats and changed the primaries to 200 cell hf cats it's been a problem. Said rebuild company might offer me the option of using a different compressor wheel. But I'll probably end up only getting the seals replaced.

 

[SRV]

The reason I bring the topic up is because at the moment I'm having my turbos rebuilt. I'm tired of blowing oil. Ever since I removed the secondary cats and changed the primaries to 200 cell hf cats it's been a problem. Said rebuild company might offer me the option of using a different compressor wheel. But I'll probably end up only getting the seals replaced.

I think it's a very good idea to stay stock with the compressor.

I just read the entire thread, and it's too bad @gingfreaccs didn't update it.

It's unfortunate the hybrid turbos are not reliable - does anyone know their failure mode?

 

[niko]

One person made a good case concerning exhaust restrictions. The small manifold going from the heads to the turbos can't remove the exhaust gases fast enough. Cramming more in the engine with no where for it to go (hybrid turbos). Back pressure builds and temps climb. Making for a bad situation.

The reason I bring the topic up is because at the moment I'm having my turbos rebuilt. I'm tired of blowing oil. Ever since I removed the secondary cats and changed the primaries to 200 cell hf cats it's been a problem. Said rebuild company might offer me the option of using a different compressor wheel. But I'll probably end up only getting the seals replaced.

even tuned u still get blow back from turbos