EK1Pro Tune - Sixth Element

I've heard .022 to .024 is the sweet spot.
I think we adjust plug gap smaller for use with the JB4 because it’s unable to adjust spark duration/dwell time to accommodate the extra boost.

ECU tunes have adjusted dwell times and the factory recommended gap can be used.

Someone correct me if my understanding is off the mark. I’m sure there’s more to it.
 
I think we adjust plug gap smaller for use with the JB4 because it’s unable to adjust spark duration/dwell time to accommodate the extra boost.

ECU tunes have adjusted dwell times and the factory recommended gap can be used.

Someone correct me if my understanding is off the mark. I’m sure there’s more to it.
This is how I understood it to be with a full ecu tune as well. I know I read Slip_angle mention that only piggybacks usually needed the gap set to .022 in the main Lozic thread on here, although I don’t know the specifics as to why.
 
I think we adjust plug gap smaller for use with the JB4 because it’s unable to adjust spark duration/dwell time to accommodate the extra boost.

ECU tunes have adjusted dwell times and the factory recommended gap can be used.

Someone correct me if my understanding is off the mark. I’m sure there’s more to it.
That would make sense as I seem to be getting slightly more pull now that I have gapped my HKS Plugs compared to before.
 
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actually, @nathan@sxth what would you recommend in this case, just to get a clear answer.
I think we adjust plug gap smaller for use with the JB4 because it’s unable to adjust spark duration/dwell time to accommodate the extra boost.

ECU tunes have adjusted dwell times and the factory recommended gap can be used.

Someone correct me if my understanding is off the mark. I’m sure there’s more to it.
 
We use the factory M45iL gap.

A lower gap is needed with a piggyback because they alter the load calculation when they decrease the voltage that the MAP sees. Consider the simple formula:
New MAP Signal = Original MAP Signal + (Additional Signal from Piggyback ECU)

When the alteration of the MAP signal occurs, the engine load calculation is now affected. The calculation can be written as:
Engine Load = (Absolute Manifold Pressure × Engine Displacement × Engine Speed) / (Air Density × Ideal Air/Fuel Ratio)

Because the MAP sensor is how Absolute Manifold Pressure is calculated, we now have a new engine load which is lower. The ECU calculates an intended spark energy based on the Engine Load, but because Engine Load is now lower, we have reduced spark energy and need a lower gap. Now you can consider the following formula:
Energy (Joules) = Engine Load × Coilpack Dwell Time × Coilpack Voltage^2 / Coilpack Resistance

Combining the three we have:
New Energy (Joules) = (Absolute Manifold Pressure × Engine Displacement × Engine Speed × Coilpack Dwell Time × Coilpack Voltage^2) / (Air Density × Ideal Air/Fuel Ratio × Coilpack Resistance) - (Negative Additional Energy from Piggyback ECU)

With ECU tuning the load is the opposite because we are not obfuscating or altering signals, so the spark energy will increase as necessary.
 
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We use the factory M45iL gap.

A lower gap is needed with a piggyback because they alter the load calculation when they decrease the voltage that the MAP sees. Consider the simple formula:


When the alteration of the MAP signal occurs, the engine load calculation is now affected. The calculation can be written as:


Because the MAP sensor is how Absolute Manifold Pressure is calculated, we now have a new engine load which is lower. The ECU calculates an intended spark energy based on the Engine Load, but because Engine Load is now lower, we have reduced spark energy and need a lower gap. Now you can consider the following formula:


Combining the three we have:


With ECU tuning the load is the opposite because we are not obfuscating or altering signals, so the spark energy will increase as necessary.
Thanks Nathan, that's probably the best explanation of the gap conundrum this forum has ever gotten.
 
We use the factory M45iL gap.

A lower gap is needed with a piggyback because they alter the load calculation when they decrease the voltage that the MAP sees. Consider the simple formula:


When the alteration of the MAP signal occurs, the engine load calculation is now affected. The calculation can be written as:


Because the MAP sensor is how Absolute Manifold Pressure is calculated, we now have a new engine load which is lower. The ECU calculates an intended spark energy based on the Engine Load, but because Engine Load is now lower, we have reduced spark energy and need a lower gap. Now you can consider the following formula:


Combining the three we have:


With ECU tuning the load is the opposite because we are not obfuscating or altering signals, so the spark energy will increase as necessary.
Great information. Does this apply to a Back End Flash as well? In other words, with a full tune, sounds like we shouldn't need reduced gap, but is this the same with a BEF? Can it also apply the correct spark energy for the actual load?
 
Great information. Does this apply to a Back End Flash as well? In other words, with a full tune, sounds like we shouldn't need reduced gap, but is this the same with a BEF? Can it also apply the correct spark energy for the actual load?
It depends on whether the tuner adjusts spark energy.
 
My EK1 Lite will be here by the end of the week. Can’t wait.
Stay on this thread, let us know if you need any help.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Stay on this thread, let us know if you need any help.
Is anyone running an off the shelf tune on Canadian 94? Our gas seems to be a bit shitty, I can see up to 3 degrees timing pulled on JB4 Map 2.

Mods otherwise are just an AEM intake and borla exhaust.

Also are idle stop and go disabled and persistent modes (I like to drive in smart, I hate having to switch over to it every time I start the car) also options?

I also get a fairly decent burble out of my car as is, especially with my default wastegate position at 75%, but I wouldn’t mind a bit more.
 
Is anyone running an off the shelf tune on Canadian 94? Our gas seems to be a bit shitty, I can see up to 3 degrees timing pulled on JB4 Map 2.

Mods otherwise are just an AEM intake and borla exhaust.

Also are idle stop and go disabled and persistent modes (I like to drive in smart, I hate having to switch over to it every time I start the car) also options?

I also get a fairly decent burble out of my car as is, especially with my default wastegate position at 75%, but I wouldn’t mind a bit more.
Once you get the ECU patched and you have your calibration ID updated in your profile on sxthnktuning.com, you will see what tunes are available on the website.
I think ISG is disabled on most if not all their tunes.
I don’t think drive modes are changed though.
 
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Once you get the ECU patched and you have your calibration ID, you will see what tunes are available on the website.
I think ISG (Idle Stop and Go) is disabled on most if not all their tunes.
I don’t think drive modes are changed though.
Drive modes are currently not changed at all. I'm sure we could ask about it though.
 
the shop I bought my EK1 from also does tuning and offers a bunch of extra stuff like that, but I’m not really wanting to pay $900 CAD for a tune.
 
the shop I bought my EK1 from also does tuning and offers a bunch of extra stuff like that, but I’m not really wanting to pay $900 CAD for a tune.
Im honestly not sure if starting in a specific mode is an ECU controlled thing or not, as there have been several ways of setting the car to automatically set the car to sport mode on start, and all of them have been physical hardware modifications. I also have this vague memory of asking lozic about it (He has factory files directly from kia, instead of creating his own base files) and I could swear I remember him saying the drive mode selection was not set in the ECU itself.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Are you guys still using the brake snip with the Sxth tcu tune or will/does it work well enough without it? I might be a little early asking this question as it seems you guys are having issues with the launch control in the tcu tune.
 
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Are you guys still using the brake snip with the Sxth tcu tune or will/does it work well enough without it? I might be a little early asking this question as it seems you guys are having issues with the launch control in the tcu tune.
I'm still using the brake snip as the launch control still isn't working on my TCU tune
 
Ok so kind of TBD at this point. And how hard is the line pressure on the shifts?
 
Are you guys still using the brake snip with the Sxth tcu tune or will/does it work well enough without it? I might be a little early asking this question as it seems you guys are having issues with the launch control in the tcu tune.
Im working with Nathan on getting the Launch control settings dialed in. tried some new settings for him last night but now I seem to be getting blocked by a torque limit that is too low. For now the brake snip can be used totally fine if you have it, but Im hoping that by the time we get the ECU launch dialed in, it will be very consistent.
 
Nice! Forgot about the ECU launch!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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