Lozic ECU and JB4 map 6 log review

[SeabrookStinger]

I talked to Lozic and I’m going to send it back for another revision. He’s going to lower the boost 10%

 

[Thomby]

Fuel crashes when overboost happens. Need more revision or go ask for a refund.

Is FP_H dropping to 9 a crash? BMS's guidance is that it's generally 10, but JB4 doesn't shut off unless it goes below 7. Not saying 24psi is ideal on 93 but if he's not running a high ethanol mix I'm curious if he's actually fuel limited (vs. octane).

Edit: saw the earlier log where he hits 28psi and FP_H drops to 6-5-4 during 100% throttle. That's what I'd expect from a fuel pump crash, but I haven't seen a ton of those so looking for more context.

 

[ChaneRZ]

If your car didn’t go on limp mode, that ecu doesn’t have any limit protection. Keep running that ecu and you’ll have a blown motor anytime.

 

[SeabrookStinger]

Is FP_H dropping to 9 a crash? BMS's guidance is that it's generally 10, but JB4 doesn't shut off unless it goes below 7. Not saying 24psi is ideal on 93 but if he's not running a high ethanol mix I'm curious if he's actually fuel limited (vs. octane).

Edit: saw the earlier log where he hits 28psi and FP_H drops to 6-5-4 during 100% throttle. That's what I'd expect from a fuel pump crash, but I haven't seen a ton of those so looking for more context.

The log where I hit 28psi was on the first tune (1.5 bar on 93 octane) then we came to the conclusion to go 1.4 bar on 91 octane. Still over boosting to 24 psi (using 93 octane only, not using any ethanol).

 

[Yves998]

The log where I hit 28psi was on the first tune (1.5 bar on 93 octane) then we came to the conclusion to go 1.4 bar on 91 octane. Still over boosting to 24 psi (using 93 octane only, not using any ethanol).

Your overboost is clearly some torque limiter/fueling failure. Simply lowering target boost won’t work at all. Seems like your tune is his old fueling setting cuz your HPFP is 11. Lozic has a tune with 13 HPFP if you ask for that one maybe it will solve your problem if your overboost is fuel crash related. Also the fuel crash can be overboost related too, cuz it happens after gear change which is an indicator of crashing torque limiter/boost control.

 

[SeabrookStinger]

Your overboost is clearly some torque limiter/fueling failure. Simply lowering target boost won’t work at all. Seems like your tune is his old fueling setting cuz your HPFP is 11. Lozic has a tune with 13 HPFP if you ask for that one maybe it will solve your problem if your overboost is fuel crash related. Also the fuel crash can be overboost related too, cuz it happens after gear change which is an indicator of crashing torque limiter/boost control.

I feel like it is over boost related because when I was waiting for the revised ECU to come in, I was running JB4 map 2 with no issues. Here is the log for that pull.

 

[Corleone1]

Yeah I messaged Lozic about another revision. Don’t know if I need to go to 1.3 bar or if he can just lower the boost on the 1.4 bar

I am coming in here as I have had different tunes and we can see in Dyno that there is no more power going over 20 psi at midrange and 18 at 6000 rpm. Its to much talk about just boost, not to have the car as fast as possible with that hardware you use. Get a dragy and do runs like 100-200 km/h. (62-124 mph). That will tell you what the xtra boost will do or not, of course Dyno is always good...

Another thing to discover is that another one in here mentioned. The ECU can set permanently "out of range" faults, these cannot be seen with a reader but with KIAs KDS dator and graphs. This faults cannot be cleared, not even by KIA (maybe some KIA can but most dont ewen know about this). Faults like overboosting is known as it can change the way EWGs is managed, some EWGs also has runned out of its range and broke in the plastic shield. Not fun to replace.

Then a new ECU is needed and be married in. From 2017 ECU has version 3, after this there is several ECU and latest seems to be 7 from 2019->. The latest says that they have about the same stock tune but... the way the newer ones managed the things around the engine is made different. This is what I heard from inner KIA people. Like you have an old Windows version, you cannot put in "tunes" that the basic Windows not can take. Thats why older tuned ECU don get it and can be change. Very hard to find faults like this.

In this picture you can see how the stock ECU will overboost by rpm, like WOT from 2000 rpm and by 4000 its cuts off as boost reach 25-30 psi from a permanently fault. PWM sending signal to ewgs that respond back its voltage and position but the reaction is not right. Right should have been that voltage should go lower and lower by rpm and open the wg but instead it tries some compensation the wrong way as PWM peaks up again.

This is ewen as you see that the settings of 85% is riht and also the voltage but tha should have reached around 5 V to open wg full.



That is the thing with tuned ECUs and strange things like all of a sudden overboost etc. its change permanently. In my opinion a newer ECU is better and also if you not aiming for the last 25 hp you be very, very good with JB4 and stock ECU. It will be very safe if hardware like plugs, good fuel and maybe a better exhaust is there. Only difference you will notice is that a higher base timing tune that all ECU tuning vendors do will make an engine more crisp/response but also can be the thing that is hard for the engine. Like if fuel is bad somedays.

 

[Yves998]

I am coming in here as I have had different tunes and we can see in Dyno that there is no more power going over 20 psi at midrange and 18 at 6000 rpm. Its to much talk about just boost, not to have the car as fast as possible with that hardware you use. Get a dragy and do runs like 100-200 km/h. (62-124 mph). That will tell you what the xtra boost will do or not, of course Dyno is always good...

Another thing to discover is that another one in here mentioned. The ECU can set permanently "out of range" faults, these cannot be seen with a reader but with KIAs KDS dator and graphs. This faults cannot be cleared, not even by KIA (maybe some KIA can but most dont ewen know about this). Faults like overboosting is known as it can change the way EWGs is managed, some EWGs also has runned out of its range and broke in the plastic shield. Not fun to replace.

Then a new ECU is needed and be married in. From 2017 ECU has version 3, after this there is several ECU and latest seems to be 7 from 2019->. The latest says that they have about the same stock tune but... the way the newer ones managed the things around the engine is made different. This is what I heard from inner KIA people. Like you have an old Windows version, you cannot put in "tunes" that the basic Windows not can take. Thats why older tuned ECU don get it and can be change. Very hard to find faults like this.

In this picture you can see how the stock ECU will overboost by rpm, like WOT from 2000 rpm and by 4000 its cuts off as boost reach 25-30 psi from a permanently fault. PWM sending signal to ewgs that respond back its voltage and position but the reaction is not right. Right should have been that voltage should go lower and lower by rpm and open the wg but instead it tries some compensation the wrong way as PWM peaks up again.

This is ewen as you see that the settings of 85% is riht and also the voltage but tha should have reached around 5 V to open wg full.

View attachment 79052

That is the thing with tuned ECUs and strange things like all of a sudden overboost etc. its change permanently. In my opinion a newer ECU is better and also if you not aiming for the last 25 hp you be very, very good with JB4 and stock ECU. It will be very safe if hardware like plugs, good fuel and maybe a better exhaust is there. Only difference you will notice is that a higher base timing tune that all ECU tuning vendors do will make an engine more crisp/response but also can be the thing that is hard for the engine. Like if fuel is bad somedays.

Agree. JB4 is already more than enough to max out pump gas. Back end flash or full tune is more suitable for E30/WMI/CPI.
Also for non WOT/daily partial throttle driving experience, bit 7+map4/5/6 feels smoother than lozic 1.5 with or without boost ready for me. That old 1.3bar 91 tune I have was super smooth for daily driving tho.

 

[Corleone1]

Agree. JB4 is already more than enough to max out pump gas. Back end flash or full tune is more suitable for E30/WMI/CPI.
Also for non WOT/daily partial throttle driving experience, bit 7+map4/5/6 feels smoother than lozic 1.5 with or without boost ready for me. That old 1.3bar 91 tune I have was super smooth for daily driving tho.

Agree!

JB4 is a great product. Did mount one 1 month ago in a Stinger 2020. All stock. 0-60 = 3,92 in Dragy = fantastic!

 

[rpoffen]

Agree!

JB4 is a great product. Did mount one 1 month ago in a Stinger 2020. All stock. 0-60 = 3,92 in Dragy = fantastic!

I'm not sure what some of the best times are with just jb4 + bolt-ons, but I have run 11.80@118 at the track with just jb4.

 

[Corleone1]

I'm not sure what some of the best times are with just jb4 + bolt-ons, but I have run 11.80@118 at the track with just jb4.

Same here from 12.23 down to 11.76. JB4, exhaust, intakes. I really like changing Maps on wiper, very good to have

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

There is a guy running 11.5s on facebook with just JB4

 

[rpoffen]

Same here from 12.23 down to 11.76. JB4, exhaust, intakes. I really like changing Maps on wiper, very good to have

Definitely handy.

 

[rpoffen]

There is a guy running 11.5s on facebook with just JB4

Something to strive for. I have been waiting to get back to the track out here, but it has been rained out all month so far.

 

[SeabrookStinger]

I received my second revised ECU and finally did a pull to see how it runs. I’ll attach the log and tell me what y’all think. It definitely feels better than before. Not overboosting but still has some timing corrections. I went ahead and ordered some more spark plugs as I just hit around 18k miles on current plugs.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

I received my second revised ECU and finally did a pull to see how it runs. I’ll attach the log and tell me what y’all think. It definitely feels better than before. Not overboosting but still has some timing corrections. I went ahead and ordered some more spark plugs as I just hit around 18k miles on current plugs.

What is your mod setup and what kind of fuel are you running? this log shows that the ECU may still be adapting to the fuel, but the IGN1 advance is surprisingly low for what I would expect when WOT

 

[Corleone1]

Good to know also is that KIA have a revision from jan-23 that is an upgrade in knock system. I think it is softare but I dont know.

 

[SeabrookStinger]

What is your mod setup and what kind of fuel are you running? this log shows that the ECU may still be adapting to the fuel, but the IGN1 advance is surprisingly low for what I would expect when WOT

I have BMS air intakes, HKS M45iL spark plugs, BMS pedal tuner, Ultimate Performance down/mid pipes, MBRP catback exhaust, Lozic ECU/TCU, and jb4. That’s it for performance mods. For fuel 93 octane. The ECU could still be adapting. It probably has just under 100 miles. What are you looking at to see if the ECU is still adapting to fuel and what should the ign1 value at WOT?

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

I have BMS air intakes, HKS M45iL spark plugs, BMS pedal tuner, Ultimate Performance down/mid pipes, MBRP catback exhaust, Lozic ECU/TCU, and jb4. That’s it for performance mods. For fuel 93 octane. The ECU could still be adapting. It probably has just under 100 miles. What are you looking at to see if the ECU is still adapting to fuel and what should the ign1 value at WOT?

thats a good list of mods. Im used to seeing higher ign1 values because I think I am pushing my car more, as I run WMI as well. If your ECU has 100 miles on it, its probably not adapting any more and its just the ECU pulling the timing. the 2.3 is not that bad, I would just try a few different stations around you, take a few logs with the gas from each station, and decide which has the least amount of pull. your Logs should also be longer to really get a feel for what the car is doing. id say at least 60mph worth, so 20-80, 40-100, 60-120, ect. Also, make sure you do all your logging in sport mode, as I think lozic purposefully makes all his tunes less aggressive when the car is in comfort mode, weither you want the power by mode or not.

 

[ChaneRZ]

93 and add E85 would clean that timing corrections. < -3 is acceptable.