I would definitely recommend gapping them to the proper .22
They may be "fine" out of the box but with a good tuner gapping tool are very easy to gap . Also if your going to spend the extra 90 bucks over 6 plugs and the time to change them wouldn't you want them done correctly. The HKS will last at least 3x to 4x longer if installed and gapped correctly.
With all the cost of everything else we put in and on our cars 150 bucks for the best spark plug is minor.
I have the hks plugs but haven’t pulled the trigger on the jb4 yet… is it ok to change out the plugs and gap at .22 without the jb4? I have injen cai snorkel intakes bov’s dual catch can ark mid pipes with Borla exhaust??
Elsewhere, Terry @ BMS has said that .022 is fine for the factory tuning.
I'm far from an expert, but if you think about it, the JB4 doesn't really do much until you get on the throttle. If a .022 gap or HKS plugs in general were problematic for a stock tuning scenario, then we'd expect to see rough idle or ECO-mode complaints all over the forums from everyone with HKS plugs, Densos, or even stock plugs gapped that way, right?
Yes thats what I mean, however using that tool you also measure the gap with a flat piece of metal in the correct size that can press on the tip if you are not careful. But the stock gap of both sets of HKS plugs ive had has ranged from .026 to 0.022 anyway so in my experience at least, the should be totally fine out of the box.
Yes thats what I mean, however using that tool you also measure the gap with a flat piece of metal in the correct size that can press on the tip if you are not careful. But the stock gap of both sets of HKS plugs ive had has ranged from .026 to 0.022 anyway so in my experience at least, the should be totally fine out of the box.
Indeed! Definitely take care with the feeler gauge. Don't force it in any way.
And as you have said, variances *do* exist (both due to tolerances at the factory and shipping & handling), but they may be inconsequential ones. Being a big believer in consistency, I'll be ensuring that all of mine are gapped identically, but others' personal tolerances may vary.
I am curious... if 0.022 is an "ideal" gap for JB4 tuned engines... what's the widest gap recommended for JB4 usage with HKS plugs?
Indeed! Definitely take care with the feeler gauge. Don't force it in any way.
And as you have said, variances *do* exist (both due to tolerances at the factory and shipping & handling), but they may be inconsequential ones. Being a big believer in consistency, I'll be ensuring that all of mine are gapped identically, but others' personal tolerances may vary.
I am curious... if 0.022 is an "ideal" gap for JB4 tuned engines... what's the widest gap recommended for JB4 usage with HKS plugs?
I would definitely recommend gapping them to the proper .22
They may be "fine" out of the box but with a good tuner gapping tool are very easy to gap . Also if your going to spend the extra 90 bucks over 6 plugs and the time to change them wouldn't you want them done correctly. The HKS will last at least 3x to 4x longer if installed and gapped correctly.
With all the cost of everything else we put in and on our cars 150 bucks for the best spark plug is minor.
While I can't second this from a experience-running-plugs-at-.022-gap perspective, I can attest to the fact that the 6 HKS plugs I received (from the K8StingerStore) last night were all gapped way wider than .022. They were comfortably more than .024 even. It took me a about 15 minutes to gap them all down to .022 with the BMS gap tool and feeler gauge. I closed the gap until the .022 feeler blade would just barely fit between the positive and negative (and would even bind up a little if the angle of removal wasn't just right). I was very gentle and didn't force anything.
I got the socket from BurgerMotosports, and then I used a pivoting adapter and I believe a wobble socket for the passenger side of the motor.
As show in many videos, you can do the swap without having to remove the intake manifold, just takes the right combination of socket adapters.
I did the hard side first, then the 3 on the driver side where a piece of cake.
Just take your time, and be careful not to crack or over-tighten the plugs.
If you are tall like me, then save your back and jack up the car.
After a few years I finally learned to make this a standard procedure for anything that was going to take longer than 30-40 min.
Yep take your time and be patient. That intake side has 2 plugs that can be a bitch and if you try and force it you can break a coild pack.
Remeber the coil packs can be seperated into modular pieces which really make a difference while putting them back in.
I had a small piece of plastic that broke off and fell into the spark plug well that i had to remove with LONG needle nose pliers like the game Operation, man that was sketchy.
Yep take your time and be patient. That intake side has 2 plugs that can be a bitch and if you try and force it you can break a coild pack.
Remeber the coil packs can be seperated into modular pieces which really make a difference while putting them back in.
I had a small piece of plastic that broke off and fell into the spark plug well that i had to remove with LONG needle nose pliers like the game Operation, man that was sketchy.
JB4 first. The pedal tuner is an interesting novalty. I like a sensitive pedal and if you turn up the tuner you can get it pretty sensitive. Two friends with Stingers drove mine and they described the acceleration compared to theirs as violent. Neither one of them are tuned.
JB4 first. The pedal tuner is an interesting novalty. I like a sensitive pedal and if you turn up the tuner you can get it pretty sensitive. Two friends with Stingers drove mine and they described the acceleration compared to theirs as violent. Neither one of them are tuned.
Is it sensitive regardless of driving mode? I’m wondering if there’s a way to make it only be sensitive in SPORT mode and keep COMFORT comfortable for my wife’s exploits
The “tamer” option is preferred as she can enjoy power in a straight line when she drops the hammer (almost never), but for tooling around town it can be easy and relatively carefree…
Is it sensitive regardless of driving mode? I’m wondering if there’s a way to make it only be sensitive in SPORT mode and keep COMFORT comfortable for my wife’s exploits
The “tamer” option is preferred as she can enjoy power in a straight line when she drops the hammer (almost never), but for tooling around town it can be easy and relatively carefree…
To my knowledge, there is nothing on the market that can output the drive-mode selection from the bcm/ecm to an aftermarket device.
Would be amazing if there was, and then have devices like mando modules, pedal tuners, and even JB4s have different settings for different modes.